GFI outlets or GFI breaker?

[icnsltmfg]

I am spec'ing out my garage electrics, and was a bit confused about the GFI situation. I know the garage must have GFI protection, and I thought as long as the first outlet in line was GFI the rest of the outlets are covered. If that is the case why would someone spend $40+ for a GFI breaker vs a GFI outlet. Would the breaker be used for my 220V line or other hardwired items?

While on the subject, the garage is a retrofit, so the walls are already sheetrocked. I know the wall outlets must be in conduit, but if I am going from the breaker box straight up to the ceiling for the lights and door lift motors does that need to be in conduit or is surface mount ok. Why does code require the conduit if in a basement you can run open romex? Unless the elect is a fortune, I would prefer the look of conduit.

 

[ovilla]

Call your town's building inspector and ask what code is as far as conduit use goes. In my town we have to use conduit for everything and a steel whip can be used as needed too (but it can't be longer than 4'). My buddy who lives in another county, about 5 miles away, has a house with 100% romex stapled to studs. Yet, in another county, about 25 miles away, all new residential construction is built with in house fire sprinklers.

 

[alankulwicki7]

I am not an expert but I think I can answer some of your questions.

In my garage I used GFCI receptacles as the first one on each circuit. I'm sure it can be done with a breaker but I just did it this way.

When you have a 220v receptacle (or a 120v dedicated receptacle) you don't need GFCI protection. Say you have a drill press that you never unplug, it does not need to be GFCI protected.

If the wiring is exposed (on the outside of your sheetrock ceiling) it needs to be in conduit. If you have access to the attic space, you can run the conduit through the ceiling and then run romex to the boxes.

Typically you can leave romex exposed in studs because it is assumed that it will be covered with sheetrock at some point.

Hopefully this helps.....

 

[PAToyota]

I went with the GFCI breakers because then I (or anyone else) knows where to go to reset them if they trip. With the way that my shop is laid out, if I had used GFCI receptacles it would be just my luck that the one that would trip would end up being back behind something and hard to get to or if my father or a friend was over and tripped it they'd have no idea where it was located.

Also, any exposed wiring must be in conduit. As Alan stated, basement exposed Romex isn't exactly kosher and is assumed that it would be covered.

 

[bmwpower]

Can't you just run the wires in the wall? It requires more work than open studs, but it will be cheaper than conduit.

You need GFCI protection in the garage. You don't need it behind things that aren't going to move and/or leave access to the non-GFCI receptacle - for example, a refrigerator.

As for the GFCI breaker vs. GFCI receptacle debate - use the receptacle when you can. It's MUCH cheaper and does the job per code. Just make sure you wire it properly so that downstream receptacles get protection.

220v items do not require GFCI.

 

[HoosierBuddy]

I went with the GFCI breakers because then I (or anyone else) knows where to go to reset them if they trip. With the way that my shop is laid out, if I had used GFCI receptacles it would be just my luck that the one that would trip would end up being back behind something and hard to get to or if my father or a friend was over and tripped it they'd have no idea where it was located.

This is the logic I used too. It's more expensive to use a GFCI breaker, but is sure handier for future users. When a recepticle won't work, someone that's unfamilier with the electrical system may be confused if your protection is coming off of a recepticle.

What's $40 anyway compared to the cost of a garage.

In either case, you should use "GFCI Protected" stickers on your outlets.

Phil

 

[markb1]

I went with the GFCI breakers because then I (or anyone else) knows where to go to reset them if they trip. With the way that my shop is laid out, if I had used GFCI receptacles it would be just my luck that the one that would trip would end up being back behind something and hard to get to or if my father or a friend was over and tripped it they'd have no idea where it was located.

Good point:

As an electrical contractor I get a lot of calls for "plugs don't work in garage"
Have you looked for a plug with the little button? Oh yea we don't have one we looked every where. You looked in the bath room, outside, in the garage? Oh yeah....OK I'll come out and take a look and see what's wrong.

$70.00 later and behind that freezer, stack of boxes etc. A GFCI

Most of the time I reduce my rate, just don't have the heart to hit people that hard, but I know most don't think twice about it.

 

[Fast Orange]

I just wired a working garage for a friend.All 4 120V recepticle circuits come from standard breakers to GFCI recepticles over the workbench,satisfying both having the GFCIs in an easy to find place and having plenty of plugs on different circuits where he will use them the most.I also ran a dedicated 120V 20A circuit to where he is putting his current small air compressor.When he upgrades to a 240V compressor,all we'll have to do is change the breaker and the recepticle and he can hook up a 20A 240V unit.

 

[Jasondt2001]

I just got a subpanel installed today and everything went well... Until i installed my GFCI breaker. It does NOT get along w/ my Christmas lights whatso ever... It trips the SECOND i plug them in. With out them plugged in it's flawless...
I'm so lost.
I know the subpanel has a neutral bar and a seperate ground that are NOT connected in the subpanel.
Any ideas?
I might just have to switch to a regular 20 amp breaker although i'd much rather the GFCI because these are hidden from rain I'd feel better because the receptacle is outside.

Thank you all.

- Jason

 

[Jasondt2001]

I just got a subpanel installed today and everything went well... Until i installed my GFCI breaker. It does NOT get along w/ my Christmas lights whatso ever... It trips the SECOND i plug them in. With out them plugged in it's flawless...
I'm so lost.
I know the subpanel has a neutral bar and a seperate ground that are NOT connected in the subpanel.
Any ideas?
I might just have to switch to a regular 20 amp breaker although i'd much rather the GFCI because these are hidden from rain I'd feel better because the receptacle is outside.

Thank you all.

- Jason

Guys, nevermind. I bought a Murray breaker and you have to run the neutral line of the downstream receptacles and lighting to the breaker itself, and then the wire from the break goes to the neutral lug to complete the circuit.
What i was doing was running the downstream to the neutral bus, and the break pigtail in the next slot in the neutral bus and the breaker was seeing more power outgoing than incoming and doing it's job....
I really feel like that guy right now
Although I'm pleased!!!!!!
Tomorow i have to put it all back together and i'll be in business!

- Jason

 

[oldgoat]

In my garage they had the GFI outlet for the first of each branch. For the dedicated circuits for the compressor and the drill press they didn't need a GFI.

 

[larry4406]

I used GFI outlets instead of breakers because of the huge cost difference. I made sure that the GFI was placed so that it was obvious and not likely to be hidden by anything and then I selected models which have a glowing red light on them when they are tripped.

 

[67 455 Bird ragtop]

My plan on this topic is to use GFCI recepticals. If available I plan to use white for normal recepticals and black for my gfci. This will make them easier to find since they will stand out from the regular outlets. Also, I have a circuit for each of the four main walls. I figure this will make it easier to add a new outlet if necessary. Plus give me more options to plug things in and spread the load.

Just my .02