Give me some advice on gluing a floating floor

[Ohmthis]

Hi all, we are planning to put an engineered wood down at our lake house. We are looking at gluing it because of the subfloor, it’s like MDF. The area is 30x40 minus a bathroom area. There is a kitchen on this level. During my research gluing is completely ok. My worries are the sheer area in lengths. I don’t want to have gaps later. So, anyone have advice on this? What glue to use? Under cabinets?

 

[kd3pc]

I would be leery of gluing that large an area with floating floor on MDF and moisture so high.

We just put some waterproof stuff in the kitchen and baths and it is holding up well.

I would speak with the floor manufacturer for further details.

 

[930dreamer]

Glue the planks together but not to the floor.

 

[Old Radar]

Don't do it! If there is ANY chance you will want to change it or tire of it or not be happy with the outcome, it will be an ginormous PITA to get up--and you'll probably ruin the MDF in the process. People that owned my house before me glued down floors in two rooms. It looked like hell and was hell to rip up. If you choose to go ahead, my advise is don't go cheap--cheap floating floors wear out quick, and then you'll really hate yourself.

 

[kram71]

One of the best things about the tiles in my opinion is how easy they can be changed if damaged. I would not want to glue them. They stay in place without glue. When put together they way 300-500 pounds so they should not move easily.

 

[Ohmthis]

I would be leery of gluing that large an area with floating floor on MDF and moisture so high.

We just put some waterproof stuff in the kitchen and baths and it is holding up well.

I would speak with the floor manufacturer for further details.

That’s a fear of mine too!

 

[Ohmthis]

Glue the planks together but not to the floor.

Thanks

 

[Ohmthis]

Don't do it! If there is ANY chance you will want to change it or tire of it or not be happy with the outcome, it will be an ginormous PITA to get up--and you'll probably ruin the MDF in the process. People that owned my house before me glued down floors in two rooms. It looked like hell and was hell to rip up. If you choose to go ahead, my advise is don't go cheap--cheap floating floors wear out quick, and then you'll really hate yourself.

Not gluing them down. I would be gluing them together.

 

[alexb2000]

If you've never glued down a floor with commercial urethane glue, try it, and you'll never do it again.

What a messy, exhausting, sticky PITA.

I use a pneumatic floor stapler.

 

[JR 42]

Hi all, we are planning to put an engineered wood down at our lake house. We are looking at gluing it because of the subfloor, it’s like MDF. The area is 30x40 minus a bathroom area. There is a kitchen on this level. During my research gluing is completely ok. My worries are the sheer area in lengths. I don’t want to have gaps later. So, anyone have advice on this? What glue to use? Under cabinets?

Not gluing them down. I would be gluing them together.

Ah, this makes more sense. Does your engineered wood have a traditional tongue and groove profile, or are you thinking of gluing a locking tongue and groove system together?

You shouldn't install a floating floor under cabs or anything else that'll be permanently installed- you run the risk of pinning the floor in place, which will screw up its ability to expand and contract and can lead to buckling.

You might be a little bit outside the max length or width for the install- the manufacturer's install instructions should tell you how long you can run it. Depending on your layout, you might be able to break the flooring in doorways with a t-mold. If not, you can undercut your drywall, use a thick baseboard, and base shoe to provide a big expansion gap and probably be ok. You'll also want to make sure you've got an effective moisture barrier under the wood- 6-mil poly with seams overlapped and taped, maybe an additional pad with moisture barrier on top of that. Is there a crawlspace under the area you're installing the wood?

 

[alexb2000]

Not gluing them down. I would be gluing them together.

Together, but not down? Can you explain this one? I've never seen this done.

 

[BB Sig]

I've done this in a 12 x 24 room before. I used Elmer's wood glue. It was donated for a college club. The store recommended a wood glue and painter's tape to use as a clamp.

The edges were tongue and grove. Not locking. It was painful but once you got into a grove, it was good. Took me half the floor to figure it out!

Barry
North Florida

 

[alexb2000]

I've done this in a 12 x 24 room before. I used Elmer's wood glue. It was donated for a college club. The store recommended a wood glue and painter's tape to use as a clamp.

The edges were tongue and grove. Not locking. It was painful but once you got into a grove, it was good. Took me half the floor to figure it out!

Barry
North Florida

Solid wood or laminate? I can't see solid wood staying flat through seasonal changes.

What was the advantage vs. fastening it down?

 

[JR 42]

Engineered wood only, solid moves way too much.

Advantages are:

You can put pad underneath to reduce sound transmission to living space underneath (required in a lot of condo/ multifamily installs, and a good idea regardless);

Install over a physical vapor barrier (6- mil poly) on or below grade on concrete. Some direct- glue adhesives have a strong built- in moisture barrier, but I'm not up on the latest products;

Less glue involved, and t&g glue is easier to clean up, so less potential for a sticky mess compared to direct glue install;

Slightly lower cost overall- direct glue requires a lot of adhesive, applied pretty thick, and adds $1-$2/ sq. ft. to material cost last I ran some numbers;

Floating install works over any hard, flat, and level- ish surface- can save on asbestos abatement or demo work;

Much easier removal in the future, and subfloor will be just like you left it instead of covered in tough-as-hell adhesive and wood splinters.

 

[BB Sig]

The advantage was it was free! It was floating so the college liked that. It was a cheaper engineered wood product. I wouldn't have used it except the price was right.

Everyone that came was amazed that a community college club had their own space with wood floors. It helped that I was as old as the professors. People automatically thought I was on staff. I had young girls asking to take my class. Good thing I was married or I could have gotten into some trouble!

Solid wood or laminate? I can't see solid wood staying flat through seasonal changes.

What was the advantage vs. fastening it down?

Barry
North Florida

 

[yeldogt]

Have you looked at the mid grade water resistant vinyl products --- It what I use in my rentals now. The make so many types today ... some of the vinyl is better looking and more expensive than the engineered wood ..

If it will see any moisture this is a safe way to go .... pay once and no problems ....