Giving thought to building garage again...

[stangman39]

Hi all,

I thought some about a garage about a year ago. Now I'm really thinking about it! My father in law has building experience and said he would help me build it if I hired someone to do the foundation/concrete work etc.

I'm looking at this design:
http://www.behmdesign.com/garage-plans-768-L-24x32.aspx

I'd tweak it a bit. May only do 24'x24' or 24'x30' depending on how much I want to take up into my back yard.

A couple questions. I like the design above b/c it incorporates scissor trusses over where a lift would be and attic trusses on the other half for storage. It also calls for 12' walls but I hear for 12' walls you need to use 2x6s and that will increase the cost. I'm wondering if I did 10' walls then I could use 2x4s and would the scissor trusses get me the 11-12' clearance needed for a lift. I'm also thinking of using a Maxjax lift in the future so I think 10' ceilings would do me fine with that lift.

The other question is, am I better ordering a kit from say 84 Lumber or calling a truss company directly and seeing if they can put a kit together for me based on my design plans? Just trying to figure out the most cost effective way to get the materials needed.

I also presume if I'm gonna run electric to the garage I should have that run before building it...or is it just as easy (if I'm gonna be running off my box at the current meter at the house) to do after the garage is built?

Thanks for the thoughts.

 

[Kevin54]

Just from experience, I wouldn't go any less than 28' deep. At 28' you have room for a fullsize vehicle plus a bench up front. At 24' things start to get tight. You don't want a bench off to the side if you can help it. Just assoon as you would put one off to the side, you have to work on the other side and will have to walk back and forth. With a bench up front, everything is right at hand.

One thing to remember....scrimp now, regret it later. The extra 4' will cost a little more initially, but not enough to regret later on.

You can run your electric afterwards unless you want the main line coming in on the inside. If so, then all you have to do is put an elbow in before the concrete is poured. I'm not sure what the connector is called, but you can remove the cover plate. I ran my electric after the fact and used one of those connectors on the outside of the garage.

As far as trusses, wherever you get your lumber from, yu tell them what trusses you want and they will order them for you.

As far as the 2x4's vs. the 2x6's, you're starting to scrimp already. You're looking at a minimal cost adjustment to go with a 6" wide board. Once you have the garage insulated, you'll make up the difference in no time with heating and cooling savings.

Believe me......I've built a few garages over the years, and I've kicked myself in the *** every time because I tried to save a buck or two here and there. Currently I have a 28' deep, 36' wide garage with 8' ceilings. I thought to myself when i built it "why would I need taller ceilings"? Then I joined this site. Although the garage is nice, it's not what I NEED!!! With arthritis setting in, one bad arm, I can't get up and down on the ground like I used to. Now it's going to either have to be an addition on the garage or a major modification to get height for a lift.

So before you order anything, make up a punchlist of your needs and wants. Build it the way you will NEED it the first time. The WANTS are the toys that go inside. You can always forego a lift right now to get the garage you need. Thicker walls, taller ceilings, and so on. When the cash flow comes again, then put the lift you want in the garage. Just make sure you put in thicker concrete and elctric where the lift will go.

I also mentioned in another thread.....Take pictures. When you wire it and if you are going to cover the walls, take pictures of where and how your electric is ran. The reason I say that is that I modified my garage by taking a wall out, switched some wiring, and now I have three dead outlets that I cannot find where the circuit went dead. At times I can give everyone advice except myself.

 

[stangman39]

Thanks for the thoughts.
I know it sounds like I'm skimping...but I'm in GA....and in the winter I figure if I need heat I'll just use a propane heater.
I don't think I'll ever be painting a car in the garage so I'm not sure if 2x4 vs 2x6 for insulation reasons.
Now if we're talking $1000 overall to go to 2x6 not a big deal...or $5K...that makes a difference to me.
The size of the overall garage recommendation does make sense. Just have to see how far 30 feet is gonna push into my back yard.

 

[Cryptic1911]

I agree.. never go less than 28 feet! Ours is 30x30 12.5ft high, and I wish it was bigger. Any less and I'd go crazy. My brother has an 18x22 and I go mental any time I have to go out there

 

[koditten]

Here is my 26 x32, I think. One half is cathedral trusses and one half is attick trusses. There is 20' at the peak for the lift side. Having the doors on the eave side made for better use of the structure. You can see the roll around benches for an idea on how much room is left for benches or tool chests.

Don't waste time on the 24 x 24.

KO

KO

 

[NUTTSGT]

Kevin has given you some good info, especially the 2x6 vs the 2x4. While it may not be cold in GA, it works the same way if you are trying to cool the garage.