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GJ Fabrication rebuilds

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gj67stang

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No progress Wednesday due to the wind and rain.

Today saw all but 60' of soffit get installed along the lower drip edge, overhead and man-door trim, and the west-facing window.

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The trim around the overhead doors will be coming off since the corners are to be mitered and the metal is the wrong color.

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gj67stang

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Do these guys even pay attention to any of the details of this build or do they just go at it ? :dunno:

This particular crew just seems to do whatever they want - kinda makes you wonder about the "Amish craftsmanship" you hear about. At least the company has been cooperative in fixing everything to my liking.
 
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gj67stang

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This would not be acceptable if this were my build. Putting spacers on top rather than a "cap plate" is hokey and will not last the test of time. Granted, I come from stick-built buildings but that I do not like. Plus, how is it fastened?

Post-frame construction is a bit different than stick-built, but this solution is certainly not ideal. However, with the blocking and additional nailers they're going to add, it will be as structurally sound as if it was done correctly the first time and will cause less damage to the trusses compared to taking them down and re-installing them.

The 2x12 truss carriers will be getting 2x4 blocking on top between each truss to hold everything together along with a longer vertical 2x6 nailer on the back side. Hurricane ties are also in the plans.
 
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gj67stang

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Almost a complete roof, including bubble-foil under the steel:

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Pre-drilling the sheets on the ground certainly made installation easier.

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Overhead door framing was corrected and installation of properly colored trim was started.

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sunsation288

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Sorry to hear you have trouble , but wow !! for the dimension , you going to have something big , and hope all will resume well for you
good luck
 
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gj67stang

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Sunday afternoon, the foreman and I worked on correcting the grade boards.

When originally installed, they left a substantial gap at every corner - a perfect invitation for bugs and rodents to climb into the walls. Not trusting this crew to correct it to my liking, I took it upon myself to cut the 2x8s back and fill the gap with a pressure-treated corner block. I extended the block below the current 2x8s as I will be adding lower grade boards.

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cut back:

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corner blocks:

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The best helper:

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D.J.

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You really should get the foreman a true claw hammer instead of that ball pein hammer. Other than that looks good and hope everything turns out ok in the end.
 

MagKarl

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How is the pitch change from the roof slope to shed handled with the metal? Do they use some sort of transition metal like roof to wall flashing, or just overlap?
 

Jason641

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Not related to the build ... Do you happen to know what brand trailer is shown in this picture? I can't really make out the name in the picture. I have been looking for a deckover tilt trailer like this, so I'm trying to see as many examples as I can before I buy one. Thanks.

 
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gj67stang

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You really should get the foreman a true claw hammer instead of that ball pein hammer. Other than that looks good and hope everything turns out ok in the end.

Ball pein hammers don't have points on the backside = less dangerous... :thumbup:


How is the pitch change from the roof slope to shed handled with the metal? Do they use some sort of transition metal like roof to wall flashing, or just overlap?

I'll let you know when they actually install it.


Not related to the build ... Do you happen to know what brand trailer is shown in this picture? I can't really make out the name in the picture. I have been looking for a deckover tilt trailer like this, so I'm trying to see as many examples as I can before I buy one. Thanks.

I believe it is a CornPro trailer.
 
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gj67stang

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The cold didn't keep the crew away today.


Soffit finished, south wall Typar and steel up:

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West wall, Typar tacked up and steel started:

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Lean-to ceiling joists installed:

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Bottom PT 2x6 purlin installed for interior sheathing:

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Jason641

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I believe it is a CornPro trailer.

Thanks! I really like the build and think you will like having the extra doors. I have a similar pole barn with a lean-to but I just used one big 12 x 12 roll up door on each gable end. I wish I had done the separate doors like you are doing now so I didn't have to move stuff around every time I wanted to get another vehicle in or out.
 
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gj67stang

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More Typar and exterior steel today:

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Expanding foam to seal the slab to the grade board and around the posts:

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The foreman gave a hand from the ground:

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gj67stang

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Friday, they finished the last few pieces of the roof, installed the transition flashing for the lean-to, put the ridge vent on and finished the roof edges with the corner trim (albeit the wrong color!), put more metal on the east end and installed vertical corner trim on the SW and SE corners

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They also finished the steel on the north wall and the ceiling under the lean-to. Just a few pieces of metal left before it's "completely" enclosed

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Bronson

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Loving the build, looks like You are almost there.
Please tell Me they used closure strips on all panels and flashing?
Just haven't seen any sign , usually see some scraps, etc.
 
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gj67stang

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We survived the wind just fine.

Still haven't solved the Photobucket issue yet....

No new pictures since I've been getting home after dark.

The exterior steel and trim is all done. The interior has had 6" fiberglass insulation installed, vapor barrier tacked up and OSB 75% complete (although tomorrow they will be pulling it down and installing it with the smooth side exposed). The stairs to the loft have been put in.

After the OSB issue is solved, all that is left is the metal ceiling, attic insulation, attic floor, new concrete, and new overhead doors.
 

NUTTSGT

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We survived the wind just fine.

Still haven't solved the Photobucket issue yet....



You've probably exceeded the bandwidth for a regular PB account. You may have to upgrade to a Pro account. It was about $40 for two years.


Glad to hear you survived the storm. :beer:
 
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gj67stang

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You've probably exceeded the bandwidth for a regular PB account. You may have to upgrade to a Pro account. It was about $40 for two years.


Glad to hear you survived the storm. :beer:


Yeah...too much bandwidth used; trying to find a good (free) alternative.

How did everyone fare out your way? There are a number of buildings around here that were damaged. One barn on the north side of Upper completely blew over.
 

NUTTSGT

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I worked that night and one of the guys was hoping we might get some urban renewal with a tornado. We got the typical storm, it splits and goes right around Bucyrus.


It's always been said that the Indians like this area because no large storms would ever hit Bucyrus. :dunno:
 
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gj67stang

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Finally got home while it was still light enough to snap some pictures.

Interior 7/16" OSB covers the 6 mil vapor barrier, interior purlins, 6" fiberglass batts, and the 1-1/2" polystyrene pieces behind each post:

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3/4" tongue & groove attic floor installed and stairs in place:

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29 ga. ceiling panel installed along with all J-channel trim. The southwest corner has a 2x6 top plate installed for a future 20'x30' "tool room":

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Concrete will be poured soon:

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Overhead doors are waiting on concrete installation:

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"Z-Bar" ice/snow stop installed on south-facing roof to keep snow from "avalanching" onto the sidewalk below:

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A view out the upstairs window looking over the "path of destruction" from July:

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NUTTSGT

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Looking good and dayum, that place looks huge inside.

Did you ever consider putting the stairway in the corner with a landing ?
 
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gj67stang

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Looking good and dayum, that place looks huge inside.

Did you ever consider putting the stairway in the corner with a landing ?

I'm sure it will fill up fast enough.....

Once the 20x30 tool room is framed, the stairs will be next to a wall. The plan was always for the stairs to be in the middle so that the attic was divided in half - one side for storage and the other side for a future studio for my wife. Originally, the stairs were going to come down to the wall, turn and run along for a few more steps; however, this would have required re-bracing a truss in order to cut-in the opening, and this crew wasn't comfortable doing that (nor was I comfortable with THEM doing that either).
 
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gj67stang

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Not much happening with the holiday week and waiting on subcontractors.

This morning, the eave baffles were installed and attic insulation was blown in to 14" deep:

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Now if only I could get some doors on the building, the insulation might be useful!
 
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gj67stang

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Hardly any progress since November. Between arranging concrete contractors (which was supposed to be done by the builders....) and scheduling door installation (which had to wait because they forgot to order the high-lift springs and track pieces) the overhead doors finally went up on Dec. 24th. Concrete should be complete sometime this week.

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High-lift tracks on the three 10x10 doors

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Extra ribs on the west-facing door:

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Weatherstripping will be installed later as we had to special-order a wider trim in order to cover the jamb appropriately:

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NUTTSGT

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I hope you never need those extra ribs on that west door. It'll be nice once the concrete and jambs are done and you can actually have the place buttoned up.
 

Gentleman Adventurer

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GJ;

You have the patience of Job!

I would have been livid at the number of "mistakes" (negligent it might seem) they made.

Question for you, did I understand correctly that they were able to blow insulation under the upstairs plywood floor after it was installed?

Are you assured they didn't leave any gaps?

Congrats on getting your building back!

Happy New Year;
Keith
 
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gj67stang

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The temps finally warmed up enough for .....


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Concrete!



1/2" rebar pins drilled and epoxied into existing floor and tied to new 1/2" rebar; vapor barrier:

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As usual, the foreman was there to lend a critical eye:

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A 40 degree rise from a few days ago brought the temperature up to the high 20s today, so a winter mix of 'crete coupled with insulating blankets should allow for a good cure and a solid slab. Now to button up the doors with the last pieces of weatherseal and start working inside on electric, heat, light and paint - not necessarily in that order.
 
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