GJ Fabrication rebuilds
- Thread starter gj67stang
- Start date
Gentleman Adventurer
Well-known member
GJ;
Concrete is looking nice.
Thanks for the answer on the insulation
.
In the house I am buying, I have a garage attic that is floored for storage. They didn't put any insulation down before doing that.
So I,m going to try and blow it under there and not rip up the floor.
We'll see how it works.
Concrete is looking nice.
Thanks for the answer on the insulation
.
In the house I am buying, I have a garage attic that is floored for storage. They didn't put any insulation down before doing that.
So I,m going to try and blow it under there and not rip up the floor.We'll see how it works.
1/2" rebar pins drilled and epoxied into existing floor and tied to new 1/2" rebar; vapor barrier:
It's great to see the concrete going down, a Buckeye truck and not Dauch mixer.
I actually LOL after I tried to move out of the way of the light thinking I created that shadow.
Any updates ?
8 months and no updates ? C'mon Gareth, we need some updates.
I apologize for the lack of updates over the last several months. Unfortunately, there hasn't been nearly as much progress to the workshop as I would like due to work, life, and other household projects.
I'll try to pick up where we left off:
Overhead doors were installed, concrete was poured, and wide weatherseal installed around doors. That sealed up the building and there it sat for several months while we shivered through a 40-below winter. By the time it started warming up and everything started thawing out, my priorities had shifted to other projects.
First up this spring was to deal with more of the crews mistakes. When they installed the interior OSB, they neglected to leave adequate gaps around some of the panels along with insufficient nailing, ultimately resulting in several "bulging" panels. See examples below.
Also, they failed to extend the vapor barrier all the way to the floor. The company finally got a different crew out to fix these problems in May. This crew had been traveling around for the last 6 weeks repairing the issues left from this same Amish crew on all their recent projects!
OSB panels were replaced, vapor barrier added, Typar repaired and added above the lean-to, and some trimwork replaced. That completed the requirements of the crew - now it was up to me to continue the work!
I'll try to pick up where we left off:
Overhead doors were installed, concrete was poured, and wide weatherseal installed around doors. That sealed up the building and there it sat for several months while we shivered through a 40-below winter. By the time it started warming up and everything started thawing out, my priorities had shifted to other projects.
First up this spring was to deal with more of the crews mistakes. When they installed the interior OSB, they neglected to leave adequate gaps around some of the panels along with insufficient nailing, ultimately resulting in several "bulging" panels. See examples below.
Also, they failed to extend the vapor barrier all the way to the floor. The company finally got a different crew out to fix these problems in May. This crew had been traveling around for the last 6 weeks repairing the issues left from this same Amish crew on all their recent projects!
OSB panels were replaced, vapor barrier added, Typar repaired and added above the lean-to, and some trimwork replaced. That completed the requirements of the crew - now it was up to me to continue the work!
First up on my to-do list was to repair the drainage damaged during construction. The 18" auger on the Bobcat made easy work of prepping the holes for the posts. It also destroyed 3 downspout drains and the sump-pump drain for the house. The good side to this is it "allowed" me to obtain a backhoe attachment for my tractor.
Southeast workshop downspout had to be extended.
Same downspout as above ties into a tile from the northeast garage downspout and heads under the workshop. You can just barely see the end of the tile in the shadows just past the foundation "cookie."
Southwest downspout had to be extended.
Sump-pump drain previously extended under slab but has been re-routed around the shop and over the hillside.
Also took the opportunity to extend another downspout outlet further down the hill.
Of course, all that dirt needed to be put back in the trench.
Southeast workshop downspout had to be extended.
Same downspout as above ties into a tile from the northeast garage downspout and heads under the workshop. You can just barely see the end of the tile in the shadows just past the foundation "cookie."
Southwest downspout had to be extended.
Sump-pump drain previously extended under slab but has been re-routed around the shop and over the hillside.
Also took the opportunity to extend another downspout outlet further down the hill.
Of course, all that dirt needed to be put back in the trench.
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Next was to re-paint shutters. We had new siding put on the house over the winter, so the existing shutters were removed and piled in the workshop for the time being. The warm weather allowed for some repairs to be made and a new pair obtained for the workshop. I think they help tie the workshop to the house.
(Note: Please forgive the clutter and general disorganization in the following pictures.)
While undertaking a massive landscaping overhaul project, I moved inside the workshop to slowly get some things done.
To begin with, I installed 32 4' two-bulb T8 fixtures with 32W 5000K Philips lamps on the ceiling. (more details - and pictures - to follow)
If you remember, I had the building crew install a 2x6" top plate in the ceiling to form a 20x30' "tool room" in the southwest corner of the building. To begin framing a wall there, the stair treads had to be modified: the left-hand lip had to be removed in order to allow for the OSB sheathing to fit.
A pressure treated 2x6" sill plate was fastened to the floor with Tapcons every 36". Three openings were left to allow for framing two man-doors and one wider "equipment" door. Sorry, I don't have any good pictures of the sill.
With top and sill plates ready to go, I got to framing some sections of wall. You may question the aged/weathered appearance of some of the studs. During the dismantling of the old structure, we saved a decent pile of salvageable lumber - mainly 2x4" and 2x10". To save some money on the new build, I reused those boards, but not before checking each one for damage. Anything wider than a 2x4" was ripped down to 4.5" wide (more on that to come later); reusing the lumber should allow me to frame the entire 50' wall having only purchased two pressure treated 2x6s.
About 30' done so far. Looking east:
As usual, the foreman was there to lend a hand with layout and nailing.
While undertaking a massive landscaping overhaul project, I moved inside the workshop to slowly get some things done.
To begin with, I installed 32 4' two-bulb T8 fixtures with 32W 5000K Philips lamps on the ceiling. (more details - and pictures - to follow)
If you remember, I had the building crew install a 2x6" top plate in the ceiling to form a 20x30' "tool room" in the southwest corner of the building. To begin framing a wall there, the stair treads had to be modified: the left-hand lip had to be removed in order to allow for the OSB sheathing to fit.
A pressure treated 2x6" sill plate was fastened to the floor with Tapcons every 36". Three openings were left to allow for framing two man-doors and one wider "equipment" door. Sorry, I don't have any good pictures of the sill.
With top and sill plates ready to go, I got to framing some sections of wall. You may question the aged/weathered appearance of some of the studs. During the dismantling of the old structure, we saved a decent pile of salvageable lumber - mainly 2x4" and 2x10". To save some money on the new build, I reused those boards, but not before checking each one for damage. Anything wider than a 2x4" was ripped down to 4.5" wide (more on that to come later); reusing the lumber should allow me to frame the entire 50' wall having only purchased two pressure treated 2x6s.
About 30' done so far. Looking east:
As usual, the foreman was there to lend a hand with layout and nailing.
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hoho98925
ALLIANCE MEMBER
That is a beautiful building. I am glad you were checking their work. They would have never noticed, or said anything if they had. Great job!
Great to see some updates Gareth, you are getting things done. Back hoe, bridgeport and brake, damn man, you're getting a nice collection. 
It's sad to see more stuff that has to be fixed from the contractors. The more and more work I see done by the Amish, the more I think they are hacks, just worried to get the job done to move on to the next one.
It's sad to see more stuff that has to be fixed from the contractors. The more and more work I see done by the Amish, the more I think they are hacks, just worried to get the job done to move on to the next one.
To backtrack slightly, I installed 37 2-bulb 4' T8 fixtures purchased from Menards. These are designed to be hung from chain and plug into an outlet; I modified each fixture to accept 1/2" conduit connectors in order to surface mount them to the ceiling. Wired with 12 ga solid THHN, I ran multiple circuits so I can choose between three zones in the main area ( north, south, and "nightlight" [4 lights so I don't trip on anything when I step in to grab something quick]) and two zones in the tool room (every other fixture).
Unfortunately, the ballasts in these cheap shoplights are just that - cheap! Over the few months they've been installed I've lost at least 8 ballasts. Once I finish the interior wall and get back to doing some electrical work, I'll address the ballast issue and see what I can do about upgrading.
Tool Room, only 2 rows turned on, notice the 3 non-operational fixtures:
East end, only 3 of 5 rows turned on:
North side of building looking east, notice the 4 non-operational fixtures:
Unfortunately, the ballasts in these cheap shoplights are just that - cheap! Over the few months they've been installed I've lost at least 8 ballasts. Once I finish the interior wall and get back to doing some electrical work, I'll address the ballast issue and see what I can do about upgrading.
Tool Room, only 2 rows turned on, notice the 3 non-operational fixtures:
East end, only 3 of 5 rows turned on:
North side of building looking east, notice the 4 non-operational fixtures:
sean Buick 76
Well-known member
Nice garage!
To further explain my 2x5" wall framing, please see the following picture:
The 2x6" top plate is sandwiched between two pieces of ceiling J-channel. If I were to frame the wall with 2x6" lumber and then sheath with 7/16" OSB, the OSB would overlap the J-channel significantly; in my mind this would look awful. So instead of remounting the ceiling trim and since I had to rip a number of 2x10 and 2x12 down to width anyway, I custom sized the wall width and ripped the studs to 4-9/16" wide. Once finished and sheathed with OSB, the edges of the top plate should be flush with the finished surface of the wall, providing for a seamless appearance.
The 2x6" top plate is sandwiched between two pieces of ceiling J-channel. If I were to frame the wall with 2x6" lumber and then sheath with 7/16" OSB, the OSB would overlap the J-channel significantly; in my mind this would look awful. So instead of remounting the ceiling trim and since I had to rip a number of 2x10 and 2x12 down to width anyway, I custom sized the wall width and ripped the studs to 4-9/16" wide. Once finished and sheathed with OSB, the edges of the top plate should be flush with the finished surface of the wall, providing for a seamless appearance.
To further explain my 2x5" wall framing, please see the following picture:
The 2x6" top plate is sandwiched between two pieces of ceiling J-channel. If I were to frame the wall with 2x6" lumber and then sheath with 7/16" OSB, the OSB would overlap the J-channel significantly; in my mind this would look awful. So instead of remounting the ceiling trim and since I had to rip a number of 2x10 and 2x12 down to width anyway, I custom sized the wall width and ripped the studs to 4-9/16" wide. Once finished and sheathed with OSB, the edges of the top plate should be flush with the finished surface of the wall, providing for a seamless appearance.
Slick idea and great thinking.
Just came in from framing the last section of tool room wall. At this point, I am ready to add blocking between the studs and then continue to sheathing the "outside" of the wall.
Looking northwest. Note the other man door to the tool room and the "equipment" door:
Looking southwest. To the left of the equipment door will be a material storage rack for long lengths of wood and steel. If my measurements were correct, it should hold up to 20' pieces:
Apparently, this section needed shimmed:
And, yet another addition to the tool room - 6x12" surface grinder (these deals better stop soon, or I'll have to start planning an addition.....):
Looking northwest. Note the other man door to the tool room and the "equipment" door:
Looking southwest. To the left of the equipment door will be a material storage rack for long lengths of wood and steel. If my measurements were correct, it should hold up to 20' pieces:
Apparently, this section needed shimmed:
And, yet another addition to the tool room - 6x12" surface grinder (these deals better stop soon, or I'll have to start planning an addition.....):
***Hopefully pictures are showing - having issues with internet connection and Imgur***
Wow, it's been a while since the last update....!
OSB, insulation, vabor barrier, and more OSB have been added to the wall. The equipment door was also built and attached.
Outside of east tool room wall, looking northwest.
Northeast corner of tool room, looking southwest.
North wall of tool room, looking south through equipment door.
North wall of tool room, looking south with completed equipment door.
Inside of tool room.
Equipment door.
Three 6" strap hinges and a 3" steel caster allow the door to swing 180 degrees. Latch(es) yet to come.
Inside tool room, looking north.
Inside tool room, looking east .
Of course, the foreman helped unload the OSB.
Yet another addition to the workshop - 1952 Towmotor LT35
Wow, it's been a while since the last update....!
OSB, insulation, vabor barrier, and more OSB have been added to the wall. The equipment door was also built and attached.
Outside of east tool room wall, looking northwest.
Northeast corner of tool room, looking southwest.
North wall of tool room, looking south through equipment door.
North wall of tool room, looking south with completed equipment door.
Inside of tool room.
Equipment door.
Three 6" strap hinges and a 3" steel caster allow the door to swing 180 degrees. Latch(es) yet to come.
Inside tool room, looking north.
Inside tool room, looking east .
Of course, the foreman helped unload the OSB.
Yet another addition to the workshop - 1952 Towmotor LT35
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smokeysevin
Well-known member
I am very envious of your space, just the overall size and layout is awesome. The equipment door is icing on it though.
Sean
Sent from my C6603 using Tapatalk
Sean
Sent from my C6603 using Tapatalk