GJ riggers: How can I move this mill?

[MOS3522]

There's a mill drill for sale not far from me in a local auction and I am thinking of buying it. Very similar to the one below, it's an EMCO 20" and is being sold with some accessories so I think it will be a good starter package if it doesn't get too expensive.

Now the hard part: I need to get it home. I assume the auction will have a forklift/loader to move it. The weight of the unit is 770 pounds.

I need to move it cheaply and easily, but to complicate things the 90 miles of road home has two 10,000 foot mountain passes, an almost infinite number of curves, and may have winds blowing severely (often 50 mph on bad days).

I would like to move it in a 5x8 Uhaul trailer if the winds permit. I have a pretty good tow vehicle/pickup with plenty of power.

On the receiving end I have access to a Bobcat with forks.

So my practical questions:

Should I transport the unit on a pallet?

How should I fasten it to the pallet?

How should I secure it in a trailer?

I assume the unit should be on or forward of the front axle of the trailer?

Anything else I need to know for this move? I have never moved anything this big on my own.

I also thought of moving it in the bed of the pickup but weather can be bad and I don't want it damaged being outdoors. I will also likely end up with a big tool chest because that's where all the mill's accessories are stored and need a trailer anyways.

 

[no704]

Car trailer and several big straps should be plenty. Beware auction “rigging fees” could easily make or break it being a good deal.

 

[LXCam]

I’ve pretty much got the same casting on my jet TT. It has a threaded bung on top between the pulleys to install an eyebolt. I don’t remember the size but can confirm on Tuesday. With the head securely tightened to the column you won’t have any issues picking it there. But I highly suggest you remove it from the base and bolt it to a pallet if possible. That sheet metal base isn’t something I’d trust for your journey no matter how well it’s strapped.

 

[carlaisle]

I have made such a move with a much heavier piece of machinery.

Anchoring the top is easy. It can be done with a few ratchet straps of an adequate weight rating. Secure the mill in such a way that it is restrained from movement forward, backward, and to either side. Make sure those straps are tight. i.e. they should ring like a guitar string. They will stretch/loosen over the drive.

I have not seen this mill, but am suspicious of the mentioned sheet metal base. Are we talking 7 gauge sheet metal or 26 gauge? It sounds like your available equipment at both ends of the trip will make it easy enough to separate the base, so that is probably what I would do. The lower you can get the center of gravity, the better off you are. It sounds like you are planning to use an enclosed trailer. There is a 99% probability I would use an open deck because it makes everything 99 times easier, but you are the best judge of what is most appropriate for your circumstances.

Attaching the mill to a pallet will make your life easier. Drywall screws are not adequate for this task. Remember that your attachment method needs to be able to survive an emergency braking/avoidance maneuver. If the trailer has a wood floor and you can attach the pallet directly to it, you could simply make a "picture frame" of 2x4s around the pallet and screw them directly to the floor. You just need to restrain the pallet from moving around on the floor of the trailer. A bunch of drywall type screws is entirely adequate for this task. If this option is not available or desirable, you could also restrain the pallet with more ratchet straps. Again, you just need to apply them in such a manner that the mill is restrained from moving forward, backward, and to either side. The bolts holding the mill to the pallet are the attachment points.

The fact that you are asking where to place the load on the trailer is concerning. If you do not have enough (or have too much) tongue weight on the trailer you will be a danger to yourself and everyone else on the road. It is difficult to give sound advice without seeing everything first hand so I am going to abstain.

You should plan on the toolbox ending up in the bed of your truck. By the time all of the ratchet straps are in place there probably won't be anywhere for a toolbox on the trailer.

 

[My Old Tools]

I would sit in the bed of the truck, strap it, and drive. 770# isn't that much. If it really bothers you, lay it down.

 

[Doozer75]

It looks like a 350 pound round column mill to me.
And that's ENCO, not EMCO.
Made in China, not Austria.

-Doozer

 

[MOS3522]

It looks like a 350 pound round column mill to me.
And that's ENCO, not EMCO.
Made in China, not Austria.

-Doozer

How interesting. There was a tabletop lathe in the auction I thought about buying that's an EMCO. But you are correct the mill drill in ENCO, so China/Taiwan made. I hadn't noticed that at all.

 

[Hank11]

Build a 2x4 pallet and bolt the machine to it, then strap the machine around the column to the sides of the pallet. That all goes onto the trailer and is strapped with at least four straps. Figure out a way to stop the base from sliding. On a wood deck trailer you can screw some 2x4s down at the four edges.

Price new asian mil drills before you go to look at it. None of them are great machine tools but are so much better than no mill.

 

[larry_g]

I have a small 1000lb mill. When I moved it I set it in the pickup bed and then built a frame around the base that ran the length of the bed and then a few width wise so that the mill base could not slide. Strapped the top to prevent tipping and away we went.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[Jswain]

I put my RF45 in the back of my Nissan frontier so you would have no problem with that in the back of your truck. Take it off the stand and strap it down well, remembering it's a precision machine.

Centre the table & bring the head down as far as it will go without hitting the table & make sure you lock the head before lifting. If you're worried about it tipping you could cut 2 2x4's the width of the bed & screw them to it with the mounting holes in the bottom with some lag screws

Can do it the same way with a trailer but if you're worried about how to secure it I'd rather be able to see it in the mirror

 

[Rst277]

The only reason to need a trailer is if you have no machinery to lift the mill. Just put it in your truck bed as close to the cab as possible. Take the legs off and strap it down, not that heavy, no big deal.

 

[gba2331]

Anything else I need to know for this move? I have never moved anything this big on my own.

I’m going to assume this means you’re not too experienced with strapping loads , etc. FWIW, my experience is not professional, but it has worked so far.

Use lots of straps and make them tight. My 2 biggest fears are the load falling off in traffic or coming at me when I have to panic-stop. I have lots of straps, so I figure they are extra insurance so I’m not on the side of the road rerigging while traffic whizzes by at 70 mph.

When you leave, stop a mile or two down the road and check the straps. After a bit of shaking, things can work loose so retightening is a good idea.

Take a buddy along. If something goes wrong it will be easier for 2 -people to fix vs one.

Good luck! Moving "heavy" things isn’t that hard once you learn the basics.

 

[ddurrett896]

I assume the auction will have a forklift/loader to move it. The weight of the unit is 770 pounds.

Do not assume this - confirm ahead. This might be a deal breaker from the get go.

 

[Jackfre]

I’d wrap it and put in the bed of the truck. The mtn passes and curves this time of the year would discourage a trailer. Block the base really well. When I moved my jointer I strapped it over the closed tailgate to the trailer hitch. I got it home all right, but was lucky. The shifting weight and edge of the outfeed table cut one of the straps. Heavy straps and softeners.

 

[dcg9381]

I've done those lifting them with an engine hoist, then we drive a trailer under them and secure them...

 

[Toomanytools?]

I moved and old Delta drill press about 350 pounds and 6’ tall. The auction house got it to my truck I had to tip it on it‘s back and slide it in. I used a few 2x4’s to stabilize it and straps so it wouldn’t tip. Most equipment auctions will have a forklift, the auction house I use will load on a trailer or in back of a truck, but they don’t offer much else. It all depends on the site and the guy helping. I would load in the bed of your truck or an open trailer and tarp it if needed. Enclosed trailer is just harder to load depending on the size.

 

[cannuck]

As long as your pickup truck has decent tie down fittings there is no way I would want that in a trailer. As others have said: bolt the base down to the pallet. You might even want to put a plywood deck on the pallet to make it a lot more rigid (i.e. bring your own prepared pallet). OEM owners' manual should be available on line and show you if there is holes in base for securing to pallet. A good picture of base would be more informative.

I would not worry about the pallet sliding around. Install lifting eye in top of column (note: it will be metric) and bring some small anchor shackles - as you won't get the hooks from 4 1" (use PREMIUM quality ones, not thin ****) ratchet straps. Bring shrink wrap for the electronics.

 

[txvwnut]

If the one you are buying is a bench top mill similar to what's pictured I doubt its 700lbs even with the stand. It's probably closer to 500lbs and I bet less than that as my dad has the same mill and we moved it in the back of his Datsun pickup. As others have stated you won't need a trailer just put in the bed of your truck and tie it down firmly. A cherry picker type of engine hoist or mobile shop crane should handle all of your lifting needs to get it in and out of the truck. Also lower the all the down to keep the CG as low as possible.

 

[CraigStu]

Normally I would say remove the base and strap it into the truck. But I wonder how helpful the lift guy at the auction will be. Sure you could release all the bolts to take it off the base. But once he lifts it, will he allow time to fasten it to a pallet? Do you build a pallet ahead of time and hope you can quickly fasten it while he is tapping his fingers waiting? I wonder if it could be laid down on one side maybe the back, base and all in the truck bed and then strapped like crazy IF the bed has tiedowns. I understand the weather concern but putting it inside a trailer seems to me to really limit lifting and moving options when one is going there w/ a bunch of unknowns in play. I think I'd go truck bed or open trailer and a tarp and a spray can of fluid film or any oil other than WD40.

 

[racecougar]

Do not assume this - confirm ahead. This might be a deal breaker from the get go.

Agreed. Most auctions around here clearly state that all moving/rigging is the buyer's responsibility.

 

[LXCam]

So I looked this morning and I knew it’s been over 20yrs since I loaded this onto the bench I built.

And like all good fishing stories. I remembered it being bigger then it actually was

That eyelet would be fine for just the head, but I sure as hell wouldn’t lift the entire assembly with it. It’s so cute I’m not going to even bother removing it for a measurement.


Guess its well past its time to clean up there. Also its a good thing I looked since my power downfeed belt broke and I didn't know

 

[Plastikosmd]

Easy move, whatever method you choose.
The unit by itself is well under 700 lbs

If this is really cheap, it maybe a good starter mill but be aware of the limitations of a lightweight round column mill. Losing z axis alignment when adjusting head height is a pita.