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Gladiator Gearwall - misaligned studs on 16 foot install - help?

ghostswg

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Hello,

I tried to find this answer by searching the forums for Gearwall Panel, but was unable to find something that matched my situation. Apologies if I missed anything.

I am attempting to install a 16 foot span of Gladiator Gearwall panels on my interior-facing garage wall.

Based on my testing of the wall, it seems that the studs are not all 16" on center. Some are 15, some are 16.5...it seems to be all over the place.

If the studs in the wall aligned per spec, my plan was to install two 8' sections end-to-end and have each end line up with half of a stud.

Given that plan probably will not work, does anyone have any suggestions on how to go about completing the install?

Also, is it feasible to have a 4"-6" overlap of a stud? Meaning the screw goes into the stud and there is still 4"-6" of gearwall material that goes past the screw and just hangs there. I intend to hang lightweight material on any section of gearwall that is installed this way.

Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
 
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ghostswg

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Can you clad the wall with plywood before hand that way you then have a substrate throughout the wall?

I'm sure that's a possibility, but then would I just be screwing into 3/4" plywood only when I mount the gearwall? Maybe I misunderstand. Thanks!
 

nyy845

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It is fine to have 4-6" beyond a stud as long as you have at least 2 other studs that it's screwed to. I have cabinets hanging with that exact setup (though the cabinet is mostly centered).
 
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ghostswg

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It is fine to have 4-6" beyond a stud as long as you have at least 2 other studs that it's screwed to. I have cabinets hanging with that exact setup (though the cabinet is mostly centered).

Thank you, this is helpful. It gives me a little more potential flexibility when choosing stud alignment.
 

csp

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Also, is it feasible to have a 4"-6" overlap of a stud? Meaning the screw goes into the stud and there is still 4"-6" of gearwall material that goes past the screw and just hangs there. I intend to hang lightweight material on any section of gearwall that is installed this way.

Look at it this way, the gearwall that sits between studs is supporting itself for around 8" on either side of each stud.
 

zeke67

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I agree with what has been posted already. Center your 2 8 foot sections on a stud, and then screw them to wherever your additional studs fall. A 6-8 inch overhang of the last stud shouldn't matter, but if it worries you, cut the extending sessions off.
 
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ghostswg

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Look at it this way, the gearwall that sits between studs is supporting itself for around 8" on either side of each stud.

This helps! Good to know there can be some decent overhang. Thank you!
 
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ghostswg

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I screw 1 by horizontally to the studs across the area where the cabinets go and then screw the cabinets to the studs.

Thanks! On this wall I don't think I'll be using cabinets, just hooks mostly. That could change down the road I suppose.
 
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ghostswg

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I agree with what has been posted already. Center your 2 8 foot sections on a stud, and then screw them to wherever your additional studs fall. A 6-8 inch overhang of the last stud shouldn't matter, but if it worries you, cut the extending sessions off.

Thank you. I want to avoid cutting if possible. Based on the info provided here, I think overhang will be just fine. I had not thought about starting in the middle and working out. That just clicked for me!

Thank you everyone!
 

CraigStu

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I have not personally used Gearwall so looked it up and realized those panels are 12 inches tall. I'd overhang 6 inches of that in a heartbeat. I'd not want to miss the next stud had have 14 inches of overhang but I think 6 inches is fine. I'd even put a cabinet there if needed.
 

rsparks64

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I also spanned 16 feet with gear wall panels on one wall and 8 and 4 on other walls. With screws into studs every 16 inches or so (I had the same issue as you with variable spacing between studs) a few inches of overhang will not be an issue. Also, those panels interlock as you stack them, providing additional strength. I used strong magnets to locate the nails in studs through the drywall, made marks, and drew pencil lines to line up where each stud was. I have some pretty good stud finders but the strong magnet is easy too.
 
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ghostswg

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How about adding additional studs at the edges so there will be no unsupported areas.

Thanks! It's a finished wall with drywall and everything already textured and painted unfortunately. If not for that, I would definitely just add more studs.
 
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ghostswg

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I have not personally used Gearwall so looked it up and realized those panels are 12 inches tall. I'd overhang 6 inches of that in a heartbeat. I'd not want to miss the next stud had have 14 inches of overhang but I think 6 inches is fine. I'd even put a cabinet there if needed.

Thanks, that helps reassure me!
 
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ghostswg

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I also spanned 16 feet with gear wall panels on one wall and 8 and 4 on other walls. With screws into studs every 16 inches or so (I had the same issue as you with variable spacing between studs) a few inches of overhang will not be an issue. Also, those panels interlock as you stack them, providing additional strength. I used strong magnets to locate the nails in studs through the drywall, made marks, and drew pencil lines to line up where each stud was. I have some pretty good stud finders but the strong magnet is easy too.

Yes, this sounds like my exact situation. Very helpful, thank you!
 
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APEowner

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Thanks! On this wall I don't think I'll be using cabinets, just hooks mostly. That could change down the road I suppose.

Sorry, In my head your question was about cabinets. With Gearwall just screw it to the studs wherever they fall and don't worry about the overhang. It'll be fine.
 
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ghostswg

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Sorry, In my head your question was about cabinets. With Gearwall just screw it to the studs wherever they fall and don't worry about the overhang. It'll be fine.

All good. Thanks for the reassurance. I need it. :)
 
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ghostswg

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Guess what? I finally got around to starting the garage install 6 months later. :lol_hitti

Things I learned: I have shear walls in the garage that have an extra 1/2" of plywood before the studs. This made locating the studs a real bear and I still think I'm missing studs half the time I screw in. The good news is that I am also going into at least a half inch of plywood. The bad news is I don't know if that will be strong enough to hold the weight that this system is rated for.

Potential Issue: The first 8 foot span of my install looks almost perfectly straight. The second 8 foot span of my install looks like a snake.

Does anyone know if this is something I need to try to fix or should the system handle the curves just fine? I've attached a picture for reference, but it looks much worse in person.

Thanks again for all of the help. I will post a completion pic when done! :bowdown:

XQGkUoI


The image isn't working so I'll just post a link: https://imgur.com/a/XQGkUoI
 
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B T C

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I've got a bunch of 4' Gearwall and Gear Track I need to hang. I've had the stuff for years and I need to get off my rear and put it up. I've never done anything like this, and worry about effing it up, but figure I'm probably capable. Your situation isn't something I had ever considered.
 
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ghostswg

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I've got a bunch of 4' Gearwall and Gear Track I need to hang. I've had the stuff for years and I need to get off my rear and put it up. I've never done anything like this, and worry about effing it up, but figure I'm probably capable. Your situation isn't something I had ever considered.

which part? the bowing? or shear wall?
 

B T C

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which part? the bowing? or shear wall?

The bowing.

I'm just assuming my walls are flat and square and had never considered needing to check. For all I know, it may be likely that they are not.

Is it the wall, panel, both, or can you tell? I know that some of my four foot panels aren't perfectly flat due to the way they are packaged and the way I stored them. Some of them are kind of bowed in the middle a little bit. When I started thinking about finally installing them last year, I flipped them over with the hopes they might straighten back out a bit.
 
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ghostswg

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The bowing.

I'm just assuming my walls are flat and square and had never considered needing to check. For all I know, it may be likely that they are not.

Is it the wall, panel, both, or can you tell? I know that some of my four foot panels aren't perfectly flat due to the way they are packaged and the way I stored them. Some of them are kind of bowed in the middle a little bit. When I started thinking about finally installing them last year, I flipped them over with the hopes they might straighten back out a bit.

For me it's 100% the wall... and it seems to be a common thing for non-custom built homes in Texas. (the majority). You can test it by gently sliding the 8' panel on the wall and watch for gaps.
 

B T C

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For me it's 100% the wall... and it seems to be a common thing for non-custom built homes in Texas. (the majority). You can test it by gently sliding the 8' panel on the wall and watch for gaps.

Thanks for the suggestion. I'll probably try that. My panels are only 4', but the same principle would apply. It probably becomes a bigger issue with the longer panels.
 

rayra

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I'm sure that's a possibility, but then would I just be screwing into 3/4" plywood only when I mount the gearwall? Maybe I misunderstand. Thanks!
You understand what he is describing just fine. What you don't seem to understand is the inherent strengths of any of the materials you'll be using. They'll work just fine with a little misalignment in attachment or a <1' overrun past a stud wall.

Another method you could use is a series of french cleats ripped from 2x4s, spanning your irregular studs out past your panels.
 
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ghostswg

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Thanks for the suggestion. I'll probably try that. My panels are only 4', but the same principle would apply. It probably becomes a bigger issue with the longer panels.

No problem. Four feet will probably be a lot easier than the 16 foot span I'm dealing with. I mean my install was good for 8 feet and got wavy for the other 8 feet. lol :D
 
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ghostswg

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You understand what he is describing just fine. What you don't seem to understand is the inherent strengths of any of the materials you'll be using. They'll work just fine with a little misalignment in attachment or a <1' overrun past a stud wall.

Another method you could use is a series of french cleats ripped from 2x4s, spanning your irregular studs out past your panels.

Thank you! I'm already half-way through the install. I stopped to possibly re-do the 8 foot span that is on a wavy wall. If I had to do it over again, I'd probably use some type of spacers/shims to address the uneven walls. However, I think I'll just try to finish it out with the wavy walls as-is and if it really becomes a problem I'll redo it later.

re: strength of the materials - you're right, I'm not very familiar with that. I do know that the Gladiator folks preach about not going beyond the stud length in their manuals, so that's what had me spooked. This forum helped me get over that part on this project. :bounce:
 
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ghostswg

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If it bothers you visually, use some flat washers as spacers between the wall and the Gearwall to make it straight.

Thanks. It doesn't bother me that much visually, I was more worried about functionality being impacted. As long it will hold the gladiator shelving I want, then it's fine.
 
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ghostswg

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UPDATE: I finished the wall. It is wavy, but looks good otherwise. Most of the hooks work fine. I tested out a shelf on it and it did not mate well with the wavy lines of the wall...still working on a solution for this. I added a pic of the mostly finished wall. Will add more once I'm able to work on garage again. (jacked my knee moving stuff in the garage)

Thanks again for all of the help!

Updated pic:
https://imgur.com/a/XQGkUoI
 
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