Global Machinery Company drill press?

[90zcar]

So I came across this 10" drill press with the name Global Machinery company on the front. Never heard of it
Anyways I plugged it in and it runs. Also has a little laser guide. Sounds slightly rough when running but should be alright. I'll most likely clean it up and resell it for a couple bucks. One of the main handles is broke but doesn't affect it
Anyone know about this company or press?



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[turfgnome]

That is just a cheap made in china drill. The company seems to be gone so if you want a manual I would look on the site for it now before it is gone. The site is http://www.gmctools.com/en-GB
All of that said it is likely a good drill press for home use so hope you a happy with it. Remember a tool just has to be able to get the job done.

 

[uart]

Ive got a really old 24V nicad cordless drill of that brand. From what I've seen their quality is definitely nothing special. Though they function well enough for home use and get the job done. Yeah, haven't seen anything of them lately.

BTW. What does the runout and "quill slop" seem like on that unit. For a cheap import DP, just having those two things being fair/good goes a long way to making it a decent unit.

 

[90zcar]

Can someone help me out with the pulley setup. This is how it's set up right now. I do mostly small metal drilling so id assume I need a slower speed?



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[90zcar]

Here is a chart inside



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[uart]

Can someone help me out with the pulley setup. This is how it's set up right now. I do mostly small metal drilling so id assume I need a slower speed?

Yeah that looks like it's set for the maximum speed of 3000 RPM.

It looks like you've probably got to loosen one of those cap screw at the back to let the motor pivot to slacken the belts. Usually the intermediate spindle will be "floating" so that once you slacken the back belt the front one should become loose as well. Then just move the belts to whatever speed you want and re-tension it.

If you're looking a mostly small metal work, and don't want to change it too much for every different job, then maybe try something around 560 to start with, and see how that feels.

BTW. Sometimes there is enough slack in the belts to move the longer of the two off a pulley to slacken the whole thing without even loosening anything. Sometimes not.

 

[Steinmetz]

Capscrews extend through slots in the center pulley arrangement and at the motor. Loosen the capscrews and reconfigure the belts for the desired spindle speed according to the table shown. Then re-tighten the capscrews.

 

[Steinmetz]

"...That is just a cheap made in china drill…".

The table looks plenty flexible, so large down-forces won't work (BTW, this is probably what happened to the handle). Tools of all kinds should be operated within their known limitations. So don't push it too hard and it might work out OK.

 

[90zcar]

When I grab the top of the drive pulley and hold it still. Should I be able to wiggle the chuck around? When I hold this pulley section and hold it still I can wiggle the chuck about an 1/8" in either directio


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[woody 73]

It has been a long time and I tend to forget some things, but when the traveling tool tent shows that use to come to town would sell Global items but that was back in the 1970's and early 80's; maybe that can help you out with the dates.

 

[uart]

When I grab the top of the drive pulley and hold it still. Should I be able to wiggle the chuck around? When I hold this pulley section and hold it still I can wiggle the chuck about an 1/8" in either direction.

You're talking about being able to slightly rotate the spindle (around the axis it normally spins about), is that correct? The spindle runs in splines in that pulley, which have to be able to slide up and down with the quill travel. So yeah, it's not unusual to have a little bit of rotational play in those splines. Better quality DPs tend to have less play there, but I've never seen it as a real problem.

What is more of an issue on some cheap DPs is excessive side to side (and front to back) play at the chuck. This is generally due to quill slop. (BTW. Crank the quill about half way down to test for this, as you generally wont feel it with the quill at either stop position).

 

[uart]

Here is the only GMC tool I own. Same blue and yellow color scheme as yours.

It's pretty old and beat up. I've had to replace the trigger and rebuild the batteries, but I've kept it running because all my newer stuff is only 10mm (3/8") and this one has a 13mm (1/2") chuck.