Globe FS-10-AS single post Safety Latch

[Ole Guy]

Hi, Ole retired navy guy here. I find I can fix just about anything (just don't ask me to do it again. Short attentions span.)

I inherited a (then working) in-ground lift. It has been sitting in my back yard waiting to be installed for about 7 years. I am now ready to pour a slab for a building that it will be in. The biggest delay has been the commitment to hiring an excavator to dig that 8' hole.

Just went out to look things over and have been reading through the, fairly good, manual I had downloaded previously. It deals with installation, operation and service parts.

However, it only give very limit detail on the Auto Latch plunger. Mine seems to be missing. I didn't do the disassembly/removal of this otherwise complete unit, so I have only a vage idea of what the assembly looks like. I understand it attaches to the "superstructure" and moves up and down with the hoist cylinder while the lower end goes down a pipe guide on the outside of the cylinder (the portion that is in the concrete/ground. The only illustration is in the operating instructions and it only shows the release rod thru an opening in the Automatic Lock plunger. It refers to a rotating safety latch but no other details or illustration.

I doubt that these part would still be available but for a guy with a full machine and fab shop, a drawing or sketch would allow me to replicate this part. Sounds like just a rod and a paw mounted inside the lock plunger shaft.

Thoughts or comments welcome.

Ole Guy (76)

 

[RonB]

I have an old in ground hoist with a safety leg similar to what you describe. A heavy pipe tube is extended when the hoist is raised. A pawl falls out the side of tube to a horizontal position when it clears the floor. To lower the hoist it is tilted back up into the tube. Universal saftey legs are available at repair parts sites.

 

[marinusdees]

I have a similar single post hoist which I have used for 26 years. I bought it used and installed it myself. It doesn't have the latch and pawl arrangement. I asked a friend who was in the service station maintenance business about it at the time and he told me the safety aspect is non-existent. If there is an air or hydraulic leak, the hoist will sink slowly enough as not to be a threat. It WILL prevent rotation. This has been no problem. Sometimes I need to "steer" the vehicle as it goes up or down but sometimes the ability to rotate the vehicle on the hoist is a plus. Coat the exterior of the ram with a good coating to prevent rust. Backfill the hole with sand. Any rock can rupture the coating and cause a rust pit which will ultimately result in a leak. I would suggest researching a suitable oil to fill with. Hydraulic oil leakage into the soil can cause problems, especially when sale time comes. I live in Puyallup. My phone number is 253 307 2416 (cell). I helped several friends install hoists back in the day and had a set of tongs to suspend the ram in the hole to insure verticality. Call me if you want to jaw some more. My friend owned Station Maintenance Equipment in Tacoma.

Paul Dees

 

[oilslick]

I just used a 24" bit on a skid steer mounted auger and over dug, poured a footing . I Then set the cylinder and backfilled with fine rock and sacrete towards the top. I used schedule 40 pipe as my safety leg. I drilled 5/8" holes in it to insert pin at desired height and boy is it necessary, otherwise when working the car would always rotate! I do regret installing it though and wish I would have just waited till I got money for a 2 post. Dont get me wrong its better than nothing but not great.

 

[lessersivad]

Ole Guy;

I don't know if you've tried this place but they do have parts for Globe.

http://www.sviinternational.com/pro...dgroup=globe&gclid=CKjYzrSimL0CFYFhMgodgU0Aqg

marinusdees;

I did basically the same thing and have to sometimes "steer" the vehicle. Being able to spin the vehicle has sometimes come in handy, WHEN I have enough room...LOL.

oilslick;

If you're thinking about pulling the hoist to sell, let me know. I may be interested.

 

[marinusdees]

I appreciate your interest in the hoist but I will die with it. I bought it at a time when service stations were being torn down and getting out of the repair business. I paid $600 and got to select from a dozen or so rams and heads. Actually, mine is a Rotary ram and a Globe head. They were interchangeable and I picked the best. I suspended it in the hole with a boom truck and poured a yard of concrete around the base. The challenge was to get it at the proper elevation since the footing forms for my 40x40 shop were already set. We built a network of rebar around the top of the ram and poured a mushroom of thicker concrete around it. It is 1/8" off plumb at full elevation. As I said I helped friends do a number of installs. One friend rented a backhoe and planned to suspend the ram from the hoe. The hydraulic bled off so fast we couldn't keep the ram vertical. We had a yard of ucart concrete in a trailer and had to do some fast juryrigging. I got tired of a slight oik leak around the gland in the ram and replaced it. Now no leaks. If the ram has been outdoors long enough to rust, the rust will eat the gland as it slides by it. Some shining with fine sandpaper or steel wool is in order. A safety post is useful if your hydraulic bleeds and you want to leave a vehicle long periods of time e.g. overnight. More than one service station owner had to replace or repair an expensive engine analyzer because someone left it under a car up on a hoist. Mine doesn't bleed down. I discovered that it is necessary to have the pipe plug/dipstick in the ram tight. If it leaks, the hoist will bleed down. I installed a pressure gauge on the hoist side of the control valve so I can detect any loss. I am fearful that the air supply pipe will eventually rust out and I don't want to deal with that. It would involve a lot of cutting, jackhammering and digging to repair. I would caution anyone contemplating installing this type of hoist to research the consequences of a hydraulic leak from the ram. They are not designed to last forever and there is sometimes a problem with galvanic action. I have heard vegetable oil is a suitable substitute for hydraulic oil and not an environmental problem, but I have not verified this.
I coated the ram with several coats of the black asphalt used to coat basement exterior walls at the time. I did all this in consultation with Don Ruth who owned SME at that time. I would do it again in a heartbeat and in the same fashion. I have done everything I ever wanted or needed to do . Some times it requires a little imagination to position the vehicle. I like the fact that I can park a vehicle over it and it can't be seen. In my own situation, I wouldn't want the obstruction of an aboveground lift although I appreciate their usefulness.

 

[lessersivad]

marinusdees;

I was asking oilslick if he was going to remove HIS hoist I may be interested.

I installed the one I have now back in '86. I poured a thick pad at the bottom of the hole then set the hoist on top of that. Back filled and poured concrete around the top.

I've had all sorts of vehicles on it and have not experienced any problems.

Mine has the separate oil tank that I installed above ground in case it developes a leak.

My first "tax paying" job was working in a full service gas station when I was 16 and that's where I learned about the correct positioning of vehicles before lifting.

It does take some imagination to do some jobs, but I'm satisfied and wouldn't have a problem getting another one for a future shop expansion.

 

[marinusdees]

sorry.

 

[Ole Guy]

Thanks for all the helpful replies to my OP.

The support plunger guide tube is still on the side of the main cylinder housing and will give me an idea of the size the plunger pipe should be. I would appreciate a picture of sketch of the latch pawl however.

One of the main reasons I haven't installed this one previously, is because of the equipment needed to dig the hole. I have a backhoe for my tractor but it won't reach that deep and to rent one would be a couple $$. However, I have considered renting a Bobcat, like Oilcan has mentioned. The draw-back to this, as I see it, the auger portion is only about 20" long and even by adding sections of drive shaft, you must have to pull the auger each time as it gets full, thus removing sections to bring it to the top of the hole to unload the "spoil". Or am I missing something. If you keep adding shaft sections as you progress, will the "spoil" be pushed up to the top of the hole?? Gotta go down 8 ft and that does sound right. Noting that the Bobcat boom height is only about 5 ft above the ground when raised.

Other problem is, I am in river rock soil so the hole side might cave in each time the auger is with drawn. Won't know until I give it a try.

I would like to ask marinusdees about the soil conditions he ran into in Puyallup WA, which would be similar to what I have here in Grays Harbor county.

As far as supporting the hoist cylinder plumb while I back fill, I have a fork lift Jib Boom that should handle that and I will rig round the cylinder rather than to the ram head, which could pull out with to some extent, over time while back filling. A plumb cylinder at this stage would be important. No way to correct this after the concrete is set and back filled.

A lot to think about yet.

Ole Guy

 

[lsx10]

Bringing this one up from the dead ha. Maybe

I’m searching for any info/pictures I can find on a globe hoist company Fs-10.