Gloves for cleaning carbs

[mercifiknow]

Carb cleaner eating through my gloves. Suggestions? Preferably not a baseball mitt dexterity type. [emoji23]


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[doctordirt]

I have always wondered if I was the only one whose nitrile glove disintegrated or ripped open after carb cleaner exposer.

 

[mercifiknow]

I’m new to carburetor rebuilding and I’ve tried a lot of gloves and haven’t found any that works. I’ve got 2 Weber’s to clean plus a JD lawnmower one. I prefer not to get cancer or a third eye later on IYKWIM. [emoji13]



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[mercifiknow]

Berryman recommends from their website:

“We recommend using chemical-resistant gloves made of EVAL, neoprene, nitrile/Buna-N, or Viton.”



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[bob15]

I've used nitrile glove like pictured below when using a dip. Once I spray off the dip liquid with spray carb cleaner, I don't bother with gloves as I find them too cumbersome.

 

[mercifiknow]

Thanks!

I saw something like it this morning. Trying to purchase some gloves this morning.


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[theoldwizard1]

If you do a lot of carbs, get a heated ultrasonic cleaner. You can use non-petroleum based solvents/cleaners. Plus after you run them through a cycle just let them air dry.

Been getting carb and brake cleaner on my hands for years. No "third eye" yet !

 

[mercifiknow]

Getting one Father’s Day. Trying to determine the solution. Was going to get Simple Green Aircraft and do the appropriate concentration. Don’t want my carbs messing up the finish

 

[mercifiknow]

I've used nitrile glove like pictured below when using a dip. Once I spray off the dip liquid with spray carb cleaner, I don't bother with gloves as I find them too cumbersome.

Got me some similar gloves last week.

 

[mikegt4]

I use the green nitrile gloves above like mercifiknow. I use them while working in my parts washer as well. I get a couple of years out of a pair before poking a tiny hole through somewhere. Fold a cuff on them and they prevent (most of the time) oil from running down my arm when changing oil/filters under the car.

 

[shadetree_mech]

Getting one Father’s Day. Trying to determine the solution. Was going to get Simple Green Aircraft and do the appropriate concentration. Don’t want my carbs messing up the finish

Try using super heavy duty degreaser from harbor freight in the ultrasonic for carb cleaning.

 

[RoninB4]

I've been using Pine-Sol for a few years to clean carbs. Diluted 50/50 and soak for a few hours will get parts clean as a whistle. Sounds crazy but it even works on the green stains in the float bowl. Some zinc die-cast parts may leave a silver residue on your fingers (dissolving the "pot metal") so check parts now and then. Safe on brass jets, steel needles, and leaves a nice lemon scent. Cheap, available, and no bio-hazard at disposal. Try it.

 

[mercifiknow]

Ronin,
My carbs have varnish and trash. I’m spraying cleaner in the places where the I can’t see. Are you using Pine-Sol as the solution in the UC or as a stand alone in a container? I’ve seen it used in both ways, sounds like in a container.

You are saying that the metal will not change color? I will go out and look regardless.

 

[RoninB4]

Ronin,
My carbs have varnish and trash. I’m spraying cleaner in the places where the I can’t see. Are you using Pine-Sol as the solution in the UC or as a stand alone in a container? I’ve seen it used in both ways, sounds like in a container.

You are saying that the metal will not change color? I will go out and look regardless.

I don't have an ultrasonic cleaner I just use a soaking container. First I use copper wire to poke through the jets so the Pine-Sol can get in any jets fully plugged. I then dis-assemble jets/needles one at a time and leave multiple carbs attached so as not to lose settings. I don't feel a need to break down a carb further than jets/needles most of the time. I use Pine-Sol full strength on brass pilots and steel metering needles with no bad results. On the carb bodies (zinc die-cast or pot metal) I use a 50/50 solution diluted with water because I've found the full strength to sometimes begin dissolving the pot metal (zinc die-cast) on some components like the float bowl drain plug. When that happens it will leave a silver stain on your fingers so now you know it's eating the metal. It doesn't seem to happen with the carb body itself, just some of the other components after soaking for a few hours and you never know when to expect it.The 50/50 solution, to me, is a safer bet to leave the components soaking for a few hours. Just pull the components now and then, wash off after checking your fingers for silver residue, and inspect. If it's spotlessly clean you're good to go (wash off thoroughly with water), if not clean enough just drop back in to soak for another hour or three. I always hit the washed/cleaned parts with some brake cleaner before assembly to displace any water left after a blast with compressed air. Hope this helped someone.

 

[BlakeTheCarGuy]

The Harbor Freight 7mil gloves seem to hold up well with brake and carb cleaners. I’ve never had issues with it getting on there.

 

[Lassen Forge]

I have 11 mil nitriles, fit and look like the "medical" gloves but way more durable. I also have a couple sets of Butyl gloves that are pretty much impervious to anything you throw at them, and fit pretty good (not like electricians gloves!!), but they were spendy. Neoprenes are good for hydrocarbons but feel like those electricians 2.5KV specials... You want the best, go Viton, but hold on to your wallet... I think I gave $150 for my last set. (I used to work hazmat, so yeah, your gloves were determined by what deadly s#!t we were sticking our fingers into!)...

 

[jonesg]

the gloves don't really work the way we imagine, solvent gets through gloves .

A researcher spilled 2 drops of organic mercury on the back oh her gloved hands , she followed all the protocols for emergency cleanup, it got through the glove . She was a world expert on safety procedures, she wrote the protocols herself for industry.
Solvents easily get through our cheapy gloves, we just don't notice. Your hands sweat in those gloves, that can form an ionic bridge and convey the solvent through.

When I use the ultrasound I put the carb in a baggie, then add solvent to the bag, seal the bag and submerge it in the tank filled with hot water.
Less smell and cheaper on the solvent. its safer this way in a heated U\sound bath.
In short I don't worry about it, if the garage solvents were as deadly as feared we'd all be long dead , gloved or not.

 

[Jazz1]

I use heavy rubber gloves that do not leach any solvent through but they are cumbersome.

 

[mercifiknow]

I got my UC for Father’s Day. great wife and kid’s!
Simple Green Aircraft Cleaner should be here Monday. Great wife and kids again. Pine Sol will be done on the John Deere riding mower as a test as it doesn’t cost a fortune as my carbs are valuable to my “rare” car.

I have 11 mil nitriles, fit and look like the "medical" gloves but way more durable. I also have a couple sets of Butyl gloves that are pretty much impervious to anything you throw at them, and fit pretty good (not like electricians gloves!!), but they were spendy. Neoprenes are good for hydrocarbons but feel like those electricians 2.5KV specials... You want the best, go Viton, but hold on to your wallet... I think I gave $150 for my last set. (I used to work hazmat, so yeah, your gloves were determined by what deadly s#!t we were sticking our fingers into!)...

Used to work with MEK everyday at work along with other nefarious chemicals. It dissolved almost everything. Was at a place using highly concentrated Nitric acid and it looked like they wore oven mitts over oven mitts. Amazing how much, and fast, we have “progressed” as a Society in the last 150 years.

 

[mercifiknow]

Pardon the previous train wreck of a post. Still not used to the new website buttons but like it!

 

[Lassen Forge]

A researcher spilled 2 drops of organic mercury on the back oh her gloved hands , she followed all the protocols for emergency cleanup, it got through the glove . She was a world expert on safety procedures, she wrote the protocols herself for industry.
Solvents easily get through our cheapy gloves, we just don't notice. Your hands sweat in those gloves, that can form an ionic bridge and convey the solvent through.

I used to show exerpts from that teaching hazmat awareness... drove home the point "Stay Back"...

 

[HaiKarate]

I had some thick butyl? gloves a while back - stood up to everything but some old school parts cleaning solution I bought at an estate sale. That sh!t ate through EVERYTHING, but did manage to just 'melt' instead of weaken/tear/rip these gloves. I wish they had some info with them - appeared to be military/govt surplus. Finally 'melted' together when left laying together before they were dry so I had to toss them.