Glue for Flex vibration connector?

[crabjoe]

I need to make new vibration connector for my duct. One side needs to be 21"x21" and the other 21"x20". My problem is that I don't know what kind of glue to use on the vinyl or whatever material they use in these connectors.

Can anyone recommend the proper glue or can I get one that's pre-made in the size I want?

 

[dreasoner]

I have always used a bead of clear silicone because it was what I had when sealing up ductwork. I am sure there are other ideas that are superior to silicone.

 

[LS6 Tommy]

They're not glued. There's a metal clamp on each side of the rag joint tha t gets screwed to the duct & the unit...


Tommy

 

[zmaxmotorsports]

They're not glued. There's a metal clamp on each side of the rag joint tha t gets screwed to the duct & the unit...


Tommy

 

[crabjoe]

They're not glued. There's a metal clamp on each side of the rag joint tha t gets screwed to the duct & the unit...


Tommy

The one that I pulled off was glued with something super strong and flexible.

If I were to use a metal clamp, what's clamp should I look for?

BTW, I'm hoping we're talking about the same thing.... I know that the vinyl, or whatever material is clamped to the metal strips. But when you have a 50ft roll of this ....

When you make the connector, the vinyl has to be connected. In the past when they were canvas, you could have just sewn it together, but with vinyl or the likes, it's going to have to be glued taped or something... What metal connector is used?

 

[LS6 Tommy]

Zip screws right through the metal edges. Foil tape to seal.

Tommy

 

[dreasoner]

You are talking about the overlapping seam where the vinyl meets when the connector is folded into a rectangular shape, correct? I have used a duct board stapler but must most people don't have access to one. They is why I suggested silicone. Foil tape will not adhere well to the vinyl.

 

[crabjoe]

You are talking about the overlapping seam where the vinyl meets when the connector is folded into a rectangular shape, correct? I have used a duct board stapler but must most people don't have access to one. They is why I suggested silicone. Foil tape will not adhere well to the vinyl.

BINGO! That's what I'm talking about .. the overlap where the vinyl meets. I'm really surprised that silicone holds up, but I guess there's not much movement or pressure on it, once it's mounted.

 

[crabjoe]

Zip screws right through the metal edges. Foil tape to seal.

Tommy

I've got some s-lock, screws and tape for that. It's the vinyl overlap that I'm trying to figure out.

 

[dreasoner]

The only way there would be much tension on the connector is if the mis-alignment to the duct is extreme or if the duct sections are short.

 

[LS6 Tommy]

I've got some s-lock, screws and tape for that. It's the vinyl overlap that I'm trying to figure out.

I follow you now. Not sure what a tin knocker would do as my experience has not been in installation. I'd try contact cement...

Tommy

 

[brewchief]

Silicone and run a couple of zip screws through the overlap or a couple of staples if you have a stapler that will do it.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

 

[zmaxmotorsports]

The one that I pulled off was glued with something super strong and flexible.

If I were to use a metal clamp, what's clamp should I look for?

BTW, I'm hoping we're talking about the same thing.... I know that the vinyl, or whatever material is clamped to the metal strips. But when you have a 50ft roll of this ....

When you make the connector, the vinyl has to be connected. In the past when they were canvas, you could have just sewn it together, but with vinyl or the likes, it's going to have to be glued taped or something... What metal connector is used?

Id just use an S-drive on the top and bottom to connect it if youre using the material in the picture.

 

[zmaxmotorsports]

Or better yet why not just bend up a proper metal transition instead of a canvas boot?

 

[dreasoner]

The canvas connector (old school term) is used to reduce noise and vibration transmission thru ductwork. Typically used on commercial or high end residential installations. I used them on my home install because my mid 50's house uses a central common return in the hallway. This is very common here in the midwest
I also insulated all my return ductwork in the basement to deaden the blower noise. This makes a noticeable difference in sound transmission.

 

[crabjoe]

Or better yet why not just bend up a proper metal transition instead of a canvas boot?

I removed the canvas when I installed a new cased coil and put a metal transition in... Now I hear the dang inducer motor, when the furnace kicks in, and can and every little vibration the blower makes. What's weird is that I can really hear the sounds from the registers that are connected to the far end of the main trunk. If the register is connected closer to the furnace/air handler, it's a bit louder than before the removal, but not like the other registers. I need to put a vibration connector back in.

 

[zmaxmotorsports]

What kind of furnace did you install? Ive got a plain jane 80% fraizer johnson I installed in this house a couple years ago when I bought the place.
Only thing I can ever hear out of it is the air from the vents when its running,sitting on a concrete floor with a rigid 26g transition going into the origional old 1950s ductwork.
As long as your duct work and furnace are installed right you shouldnt hear any vibrations,If they used some cheap 30g stuff with no cross breaking thats a differant story.

 

[crabjoe]

I have a 10yo York propane furnace. I didn't replace it.. All I did was replace the cased coil on top. Before the coil change, there was a vibration connector on top of the coil. The new cased coil was taller, so I removed the connector and now it's just a metal transition. Ever since I did this, it's been louder... But now that my Furnace is running, I can hear the inducer motor running. It's not noticeable in the rooms that site above the furnace, but on the other side of the house, I can hear it. 1st time the furnace kicked on, I was like what is that noise? It sounded like a low oscillating humming .. almost like a diesel motor. I went and checked the furnace and didn't really hear anything I didn't hear before, but I noticed it only happened when the furnace was running. I eventually found the oscillating sound coming from the draft inducer. It was in perfect sync with the low oscillating humming I was hearing. I did stop by the supply house and picked up a new draft inducer, but I haven't installed it yet. I'm now just planning on putting the flex vibration connector back in at the same time.. I don't know why but I have going down to the basement! There's just to much **** down there!

 

[BD1]

Could you just make up a ''U" channel ? Two one inch angles will work , like the wall angle for a grid ceiling. Sheetmetal tex screw .

 

[dreasoner]

The seam is sealed after the connector is put in because the connector is the last piece of duct installed. The connector has to flex to be installed in the middle of a run or plenum. It is much easier to install duct sections to a rigid trunk rather than one that flexes. Can't access the inside of the connector to install a clamp. Hence most installers staple or glue the seam. I have seen duct sealer used on commercial jobs. Either material will probably last the life of the HVAC system.

 

[crabjoe]

Here's what I ended up with...

Like my handy work? Just kidding... I ended up calling a friend of mine and he said to stop wasting my time and he would have his shop guy just make me one.. They used some glue and staples.

 

[dreasoner]

Looks good. If it seals air leaks and flexes, your golden.