RoninB4
Well-known member
-That's SOP for me too. As for the other part, could you open that photo in an editing program like Paint and draw a circle around the broken tab? I'm looking but not seeing it.
Gluing Zamok?
- Thread starter skeer
- Start date
RoninB4
Well-known member
Solder is never stronger than steel. Silver solder works great for some applications but I don't feel this is one of them. The trouble you'd go through copper plating is far more than slapping two backing plates on and using fasteners. The copper plating could be employed to make the whole repair look nice as copper is a great base for further plating.
RoninB4
Well-known member
-Looking over your updated photo this is a repair of greater magnitude. The first piece is a fairly simple joining of halves. The second piece has far greater considerations to repair correctly. It would be more difficult, not impossible, but more difficult to do considering the proximity to the greater stress from whatever those gears drive or are driven by, the smaller amount of available surface area to add reinforcement to, the stepped change in those available surfaces, and the slotted ears the fasteners go through that bolt the assembly to the carriage. The assembly would have to mapped/measured to make a decent over-fit reinforcement. Do you have measuring instruments that can do this?
I personally would not approach this as a casual repair job if I had any expectations of doing a proper repair. Even if you sent me the entire assembly I would still have no idea how much clearance between other components I had to work with, I'd have to see/measure where it attaches to the lathe. Can it be done properly? I believe, without inspecting it, that it can be done by a good machinist with a BP type mill and some aluminum stock. Were it me I'd be tempted to simply make another out of 6061 and be done with it because I have instruments, machinery, and time to make this happen for fairly cheap. What would I advise you to do? Probably investigate the price of a used component and weigh this against the cost of getting a machinist to effect a repair or make another one. It's difficult to give clear advice on this as there's too many unknown details about fitment, availability, and cost.
I can probably state that any attempts you make to effect a repair with epoxy, plating, soldering that fails will result in making another repair more difficult. Even drilling/tapping holes that are badly done will then have less available room for properly created holes. Repairs like this you kinda get one shot at getting it right or it's now worse than when you started. The material isn't helping you either as it's limited to what can be done with it and how fragile it is. I hate die-cast structural components for this very reason. I'll try to offer what opinion I can for whatever you want to do with it but at this point I don't know how to advise you beyond my previous suggestions in the paragraph above.
I personally would not approach this as a casual repair job if I had any expectations of doing a proper repair. Even if you sent me the entire assembly I would still have no idea how much clearance between other components I had to work with, I'd have to see/measure where it attaches to the lathe. Can it be done properly? I believe, without inspecting it, that it can be done by a good machinist with a BP type mill and some aluminum stock. Were it me I'd be tempted to simply make another out of 6061 and be done with it because I have instruments, machinery, and time to make this happen for fairly cheap. What would I advise you to do? Probably investigate the price of a used component and weigh this against the cost of getting a machinist to effect a repair or make another one. It's difficult to give clear advice on this as there's too many unknown details about fitment, availability, and cost.
I can probably state that any attempts you make to effect a repair with epoxy, plating, soldering that fails will result in making another repair more difficult. Even drilling/tapping holes that are badly done will then have less available room for properly created holes. Repairs like this you kinda get one shot at getting it right or it's now worse than when you started. The material isn't helping you either as it's limited to what can be done with it and how fragile it is. I hate die-cast structural components for this very reason. I'll try to offer what opinion I can for whatever you want to do with it but at this point I don't know how to advise you beyond my previous suggestions in the paragraph above.
kbuhagiar
Well-known member
If it were me - just saying - I would spend less time on repair methods and more time on hunting for actual replacement parts. Your time is money, and the sooner you get the machine back together the sooner you can start making chips.
But that's just me - I actually get a kick out of hunting down replacement parts or accessories for my projects, and consider it as part of the process.
But that's just me - I actually get a kick out of hunting down replacement parts or accessories for my projects, and consider it as part of the process.
TIG / Heliarc it. Anything you do will contaminate it for tigging. Or find a good one, or take it to a foundry and have them pour a new one.
maybe these might be what you have, I don't know but it only took 3 or 4 minutes to find them.
NEW ATLAS CRAFTSMAN 10-12 INCH LATHE 10F-11 TRAVERSE GEAR CASE
MyMachineShop.Net offers machinist tools and tooling with a specialty in Atlas Craftsman Lathes ans Milling Machines. Starrett, Mitutoyo and other fine tools. Atlas lathe parts and Accessories especially for the Home Shop Machinist and industry. Many parts not listed from my large inventory...www.mymachineshop.net
ATLAS CRAFTSMAN 10-12 LATHE TRAVERSE GEAR CASE ASSEMBLY FINE USED
MyMachineShop.Net offers machinist tools and tooling with a specialty in Atlas Craftsman Lathes ans Milling Machines. Starrett, Mitutoyo and other fine tools. Atlas lathe parts and Accessories especially for the Home Shop Machinist and industry. Many parts not listed from my large inventory...www.mymachineshop.net
NEW ATLAS CRAFTSMAN 10-12 INCH LATHE 10F-11X TRAVERSE GEAR CASE ASSY NEW CASE WITH NEW STEEL GEARS
MyMachineShop.Net offers machinist tools and tooling with a specialty in Atlas Craftsman Lathes ans Milling Machines. Starrett, Mitutoyo and other fine tools. Atlas lathe parts and Accessories especially for the Home Shop Machinist and industry. Many parts not listed from my large inventory...www.mymachineshop.net
ATLAS CRAFTSMAN LATHE COMPLETE 9-27X REVERSER FEED GEARBOX
MyMachineShop.Net offers machinist tools and tooling with a specialty in Atlas Craftsman Lathes ans Milling Machines. Starrett, Mitutoyo and other fine tools. Atlas lathe parts and Accessories especially for the Home Shop Machinist and industry. Many parts not listed from my large inventory...www.mymachineshop.net
I must've missed this post.. thanks I did not know about mymachineshop.net.
As an aside, you can still get brand new (zamak of course) traverse gear boxes from Clausing for $95.
Pretty sure I've got this part handled. Paint's curing right now but the backing plate feels like it ended up pretty tough. I did end up JBing between the pieces as well as filling the gaps around the rim. Ended up sanding between curings and applying a bit more JB in place of Bondo (LOOL). Pics later.
RaisedByWolves
Well-known member
I hope you’re talking about the reversing box?
I have an Atlas 10F Lathe also, I haven't had Zamak parts break yet, but when they do I'll just replace them with Ebay parts.
I have a 3HP 1925 International Type M gas engine (throttle governed) that I bought at an auction with a broken fuel pump with similar Zamak type of metal. This is frequently encountered because these engines sit a long time, parts freeze due to rust/fuel becoming gunk/etc.. and people roll the flywheels over without checking if things are free or not. Anyway, I attempted a repair by clamping the parts together and plating it on both sides with bolts through the plate, cut off, and welded to the plate to try and "sandwich" the parts together since I cant weld the material. It worked, but since the two pieces moved when clamping and drilling to plate it, it wobbles. It's going to fail eventually.
Sorry for the long post, but cast parts with Zamak and other similar materials are difficult to repair and most often fail again.
I have a 3HP 1925 International Type M gas engine (throttle governed) that I bought at an auction with a broken fuel pump with similar Zamak type of metal. This is frequently encountered because these engines sit a long time, parts freeze due to rust/fuel becoming gunk/etc.. and people roll the flywheels over without checking if things are free or not. Anyway, I attempted a repair by clamping the parts together and plating it on both sides with bolts through the plate, cut off, and welded to the plate to try and "sandwich" the parts together since I cant weld the material. It worked, but since the two pieces moved when clamping and drilling to plate it, it wobbles. It's going to fail eventually.
Sorry for the long post, but cast parts with Zamak and other similar materials are difficult to repair and most often fail again.
RaisedByWolves
Well-known member
Huh, doesn’t even hardly look like hell.Yessir, thats the one. Admittedly I could have spent a bit more time sanding but it's a tool not a classic car so I'm happy with it.
Good job!
Appreciate it. Definite garage skills at work 
I did forget one thing, I can't work one of the gears into that bronze bushing without unbolting the taper gear. And I didn't try hard to remove the taper gear before hand because I thought I could get away with not doing that.
Heh, guess Ill be testing the strength of everything later.
I did forget one thing, I can't work one of the gears into that bronze bushing without unbolting the taper gear. And I didn't try hard to remove the taper gear before hand because I thought I could get away with not doing that. Heh, guess Ill be testing the strength of everything later.
I believe this repair will hold.. or should I say that I have high hopes it will. Especially considering the very light usage this thing will ever see with me.
Now the apron gear box on the other hand, I do have some experimentation to do with repairs on it. That'll be a later post.
For the apron you'll definitely want to drill and pin the parts together with plenty of JB Weld inside each hole that the dowels fit in. I suppose JB Weld first, then drilling into each part using different angles, tap holes, and then thread in machine screws nice and tight then trim off the excess followed by capping it off with more JB Weld would be the way I would try and attack that one.
RaisedByWolves
Well-known member
LOL, aint this **** fun?Also, like the big dumb idiot I can be.. I neglected the mounting holes for the reversing housing
Dont feel bad. Ive seen our maintenance crew put a whole press together forgetting one check ball in the hydraguard system and have to tear the whole works apart to install it. Probably added 5hrs to an 8hr job.
alfadan
Well-known member
That's one of those screw-ups where you don't even cuss or throw things or anything; you just stand there and stare at it and chuckle.
RaisedByWolves
Well-known member
How did that wind up a different shade of green?Ok I got ‘em drilled.
Oh I had meant to ask and kept forgetting.. from everything I can find online these units had a metal tag, adhered by rivets to either the end of the bed, and/or the headstock. Mine has no visible or tactile holes.. when I was stripping the old paint off and sanding I found no filled in holes either. However, in the middle of the bed on the inside of the frame is a small date tag. Then on the top surface of the tailstock end of one of the ways, is a stamped alpha-numeric string, possibly the serial?
`TH14109S`
`TH14109S`
RaisedByWolves
Well-known member
The mismatch is bad, a chrimmas theme would be hideous.
Then again if you covered the chuck with mirror chips and added colored lights that would be fabulous.
RaisedByWolves
Well-known member
Yes, probably the SN.
RoninB4
Well-known member
-Entirely possible. I worked for Sheldon Lathe when they went bankrupt and they used an alpha-numeric scheme that differed per machine type/model and vintage. Other manufactures have done the same, changing the scheme/system when bought out by a larger company, new model introduction, or when it was cloudy that day. Maytag, for example, previously used a numbering system that had a built-in intelligence where a lot of information could be determined just from the numbers, was very handy to use and everybody in the plant knew it by heart. When Whirlpool bought them out the numbering system went to a random generated number that made no sense to anybody.
As often as makers of machine tool companies were bought out it wouldn't be surprising to find that a tag indicates a serial/model number but it may be specific to an era. The farther back you go the less documentation there is. I try to look up the data for any machine I purchase.