GM lock ring tool

[plinker]

When dealing with this particular sending unit lock ring does anyone know what tool works best to remove/install?
https://www.am-autoparts.com/2000/GMC/Sierra1500/fuel-pump/AM-2320919546/1066255.html?rawFit=1066255-2000&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Shopping%20Campaign%20-%20Main%20-%20Medium%20Priority&utm_term=1100001589831&utm_content=all%20published%20products
The hammer & punch method works ok, but is still a pain when these are rusted in place.

I found the Kent Moore J-42219-B tool, but am not sure if it's correct for this particular ring.

 

[Hiball]

I generally grab the sacrificial standard blade screwdriver, you know... The one with hammer marks on the handle. Lol

I'm curious.. So I'll watch for the correct tool.

 

[fordnut85]

That tool is a waste of time, the metal tangs get bent and 99% of the time it won't clear hoses, wiring or sensors. The correct tool is a brass punch and hammer

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

 

[jsaw]

A dull bit in an air hammer works the best for me to jar them loose. Just altenate where you hammer

 

[Old Man Roger]

Brass punch doesn't make sparks

 

[Lotek]

Brass punch doesn't make sparks

Not really an issue, I've been popping these rings off and on with a big screw driver and an engineer's hammer since new. The 'proper' tool doesn't work as well or as fast, especially if it's a bit rusty, and I have several of the retainer tools at hand, but you need someone to hold the tank, along with a big breaker bar to have any success.

 

[tym]

Screwdriver and gentle taps with a hammer. I've only done this on a new tank, so no worries for fuel vapors or sparks.

 

[unslow1]

He lives in the middle of the rust belt. There won't be anything gentle about it. Usually around here we use a chisel/screwdriver and just start hitting. Make sure you already have a new one because you will rarely be able to save a rusty one. Some guys use an air hammer. Usually I mangle them pretty good before they give up and come off.

While you are under there make sure to check those fuel and brake lines. The GM trucks around here are really bad about rusting out above the tank.

 

[Tallpilot]

I have a tool by Lisle that is adjustable and a fixed tool from Otc. I think the adjustable is better for GMs. I don't work in the rust belt though.

 

[sweetk30]

those style on plastic tanks with molded in metal tabs . i use air hammer with button head to GENTLY knock rust off the tabs and break the bond of rust from ring .

blow off rust / dirt with blow gun .

then hammer and chissle / or old screw driver .

works 95% of the time . unless the tanks tabs are to far gone from rust . then new tank or good used tank time .

and fyi that lock ring last i checked was cheeper at the dealer on there shelf . price on the link above is high .

 

[Snapped-off]

Last time I did one in a parking lot I used a fist-sized rock and a small prybar.

 

[gungatim]

I use a combination of large channel locks with a smaller pair of locking pliers to hold them closed on one side, then a hammer and punch on the other, along with a good soaking of lube. that puts pressure on both sides 180 out so it will spin loose. just hitting one side tends to tear it up and it won't spin evenly and get stuck.

I some day i'll weld up a proper tool.

 

[Aqua-Andy]

I use the air hammer method or just a screwdriver and hammer. As was said before the purpose built tool for these barely work on a new vehicle nevermind one that has some rust on it.

 

[LXCam]

Got a welder, make yur own

 

[rpcraft]

I use a brass hammer and a brass drift because sparks on a gas tank are not good...

 

[plinker]

Looks like I'll be making one, kinda figure the OEM tool was iffy.

 

[czgunner]

I use a small striking pry bar.

 

[WhiffySpark]

Just use a punch. The tool *****

A little bit of lube goes a long way