Go away frost!

[His200HerScout]

Pretty excited over here. After a depressing mix of super-high bids , I got the winning bid for my new barn/garage yesterday . I was thinking about playing GC and subbing everything out, but the contractor I found must've been hungry for business because I don't think I can beat his price by doing it myself -- at least not by enough to make me want to deal with the headaches of coordinating everything. Plus, this guy does awesome work (I checked his refs).

26x46x10 with gambrel attic trusses that yield a 13x46x7 loft strong enough for an apartment. Concrete footing and block wall, sand backfill, 4" thick reinforced slab, 2x4 walls, Hardipanel siding, 30-yr shingled roof, 2 12x8 overhead doors. Around $30k, which I think is a fair price (right?).

Just gotta wait for the frost warnings to go away (Mid-Michigan area) so they can pour the footings and floor! Contractor said might be tomorrow, might be May 1. I can't wait to get started!!! And post pics of the progress!

 

[Kevin54]

Just gotta wait for the frost warnings to go away (Mid-Michigan area) so they can pour the footings and floor! Contractor said might be tomorrow, might be May 1. I can't wait to get started!!! And post pics of the progress! <!-- / message --><!-- sig -->

Is it still so cold there that the ground is still frozen? Around here our ground is thawed (West Central Ohio) and any frost warnings we get just mean the plants and trees will get nipped. We'd have to have a heck of a prolonged freeze to get frost back in the ground and drive the frost down.Your contractor ought to be able to dig down to frost line and pour the footers as long as the weather is warm enough to pour concrete.

 

[Mattlt]

Just gotta wait for the frost warnings to go away (Mid-Michigan area) so they can pour the footings and floor! Contractor said might be tomorrow, might be May 1. I can't wait to get started!!! And post pics of the progress!

I don't know... can't they just cover the footings with concrete blankets after pouring? I would think the bigger issue would be to do the digging for the footings. Although with the equipment they have these days, frost is usually not an issue.

Couldn't they also use calcium chloride in the concrete mix?

they can do pretty much anything you want if you're willing to pay for it.

 

[tdkkart]

The issue is not the freezing overnight temps, it's the frost in the ground.
I'm dealing with the same thing trying to dig in some insulation so I can poor a floor in my pole building. I've got to trench down 24" around the inside of a 24x30' section of the building. This morning the ground is still frozen along my north wall, stick a shovel in it and it stops 6-8" down, from there any digging is impossible.

Ever try to stick a fork through an ice cube??

When I get done here I have to go outside and dig in insulation around the remaining 16x30' that the previous owner didn't insulate before pouring the radiant heated slab.

 

[cwolfley]

2x4 walls seem pretty thin. 2x6 is typical better insulating room

 

[e-tek]

2x4 walls seem pretty thin. 2x6 is typical better insulating room

I live in the coldest place on earth and everything is still built 2x4. I think the R value difference is negligible. My shop heating bill isn't outrageous. (It's the electric bill for my HotTub that's crazy!!)

 

[Matti]

26x46 sounds pretty darn nice. I've had people totally impressed with my 24x26

2x4 should allow R12 insulation and 2x6 is R20. I went R20 walls/R38 roof.

 

[stricht8]

I also have a 73 220D. Mine is white with tan interior and automatic transmission.

Pretty excited over here. After a depressing mix of super-high bids , I got the winning bid for my new barn/garage yesterday . I was thinking about playing GC and subbing everything out, but the contractor I found must've been hungry for business because I don't think I can beat his price by doing it myself -- at least not by enough to make me want to deal with the headaches of coordinating everything. Plus, this guy does awesome work (I checked his refs).

26x46x10 with gambrel attic trusses that yield a 13x46x7 loft strong enough for an apartment. Concrete footing and block wall, sand backfill, 4" thick reinforced slab, 2x4 walls, Hardipanel siding, 30-yr shingled roof, 2 12x8 overhead doors. Around $30k, which I think is a fair price (right?).

Just gotta wait for the frost warnings to go away (Mid-Michigan area) so they can pour the footings and floor! Contractor said might be tomorrow, might be May 1. I can't wait to get started!!! And post pics of the progress!

 

[His200HerScout]

I also have a 73 220D. Mine is white with tan interior and automatic transmission.

Mine's blue with blue interior and a manual transmission. I love that car. Rather cold blooded though, even with Duratherm plugs, so I only drive it in the summer.

 

[StingRay]

E-Tek tecnically it is nowhere near the coldest place on earth. It is however pretty much the most extreme climate on earth from the standpoint that very few places commonly see -40c to +40c temperature extremes. As for stud sizes go 2 x 6 for sure. It offers alot better insulation options and makes pretty much anything you'd run in the cavity easier to do. My shop is 2 x 4 only because it was framed that way before I got to it. I had it spray foamed with 3" of foam to make up for it though.

 

[stricht8]

You have a better color combo and I wish I had a manual. Duratherm? I use Bosch. Is there a difference?

Mine's blue with blue interior and a manual transmission. I love that car. Rather cold blooded though, even with Duratherm plugs, so I only drive it in the summer.

 

[His200HerScout]

You have a better color combo and I wish I had a manual. Duratherm? I use Bosch. Is there a difference?

Duratherm plugs are made by Bosch and they burn hotter. I read that they're good for cold winters. I noticed a difference when I changed from the stock plugs (less cranking). I'm not overly impressed, but they aren't very expensive.