Going to Rustoleum epoxy (URGENT HELP NEEDEd)

[BZX759]

So for some reason or another I've decided to do the garage floor epoxying,

going to be using rustoleums 2 car garage kit

garage is cleaned, so now I just need to patch the concrete and then clean and etch the concrete.

my question is, can I apply several coats? I am going to have extra epoxy.
I don't have spike shoes so I'm not sure if this will prevent me, or just make it difficult to do.

and at the edge of my garage where the door closes there is a seam with some sort of foam material inserted in the slit, should I take this out, buy new ones, or just paint over it?

Any additional tips or advice on things that I should do? It was a lot of work taking everything out of my garage, it hasn't ever been fully cleaned sice we've lived here 15+ years

 

[BZX759]

and is there a good brush to use with the epoxy? Ive got that little ledge to the left that is tapered, i'm not sure if my small roller would make good contact with the edge of the concrete.

 

[pepi]

Why not ask the manufacture, 1 800 Rustoleum ? I do not know why I would think to do that, maybe cause they designed the product ?

 

[Kevin54]

Good luck, but you better check with some others on here before doing it.

 

[CT2012]

i did two coats. looked even better when done (the grey was brighter). no issues. why would you need/want to do "several"? i dunno if more coats of restoleum epoxy will make things any stronger, but i can say that just one clear coat makes a huge difference in durability.

if you haven't bought product yet, be sure to buy two of the 2-car garage kits just in case you don't like the look of the first application/coat. you'll only need one 2-car garage kit of the clear, however.

if you buy the product from home depot, do yourself a favor: either at the store or as soon as you get home, open the cans to check the consistency of the product. as it happened to me, no joke, somebody must have poured out the product and refilled with water, took it back to hd and got a refund. literally, the stuff in one of the cans was water. it was unbelievable, even the paint desk was surprised and they said they've seen some weird stuff.

 

[Shea]

Yes, you can apply multiple coats. You need to let the first coat cure for 10-12 hours first. Test first by pressing your thumb on the surface. If it doesn't leave a print then you can start applying another coat.

The spiked shoes are for walking on epoxy that you just put down in order to back roll, apply color flakes, and etc.

Coat up to the seam at the garage door. It provides for a nice terminating point in the coating.

 

[BZX759]

what is backrolling? is that just thickening up the coat?

if so that is what I mean by 2nd coat, I'll probably have extra left over so if I could use it all that would be ideal. Any advice on doing this?

 

[BZX759]

i did two coats. looked even better when done (the grey was brighter). no issues. why would you need/want to do "several"? i dunno if more coats of restoleum epoxy will make things any stronger, but i can say that just one clear coat makes a huge difference in durability.

if you haven't bought product yet, be sure to buy two of the 2-car garage kits just in case you don't like the look of the first application/coat. you'll only need one 2-car garage kit of the clear, however.

if you buy the product from home depot, do yourself a favor: either at the store or as soon as you get home, open the cans to check the consistency of the product. as it happened to me, no joke, somebody must have poured out the product and refilled with water, took it back to hd and got a refund. literally, the stuff in one of the cans was water. it was unbelievable, even the paint desk was surprised and they said they've seen some weird stuff.

If I had unlimited money I would, but I don't

 

[SunsetsAndFriends]

BZX759 - after the first coat of epoxy look at the floor to see whether the coverage looks even. Some parts of the concrete might be more porous, thus "drinking up" more of the epoxy. In these situations, you will want to apply a second coat.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Trey T]

I don't know the exact definition of "backrolling" but it simply means you use a paint roller to roll the paint after it's squeegeed.

Perhaps "backrolling" came from ROLLING the paint roller BACK and forth until you find the desired consistency....

what is backrolling? is that just thickening up the coat?

if so that is what I mean by 2nd coat, I'll probably have extra left over so if I could use it all that would be ideal. Any advice on doing this?

 

[BZX759]

washed 2-3 times with liquid dish soap/mop and water and then spraying clear with water from a garden hose.

the mop left little pieces of fiber behind, so i'll have to sweep or vacuum them up.

It seems like there is a thin layer of dirt that is encrusted ontop of the concrete, I'm not sure if it'll hurt or if it'll come off.(with etchant?)

I'm wondering if I should mop over the area with plain water and see if I pick up any dirt, or just call it good.

also,
I got a concrete filler, but its not made by rustoleum, do you think they will be compatible?

How long must it dry? is the bag method essential?

 

[BZX759]

why do people squegee when it needs to dry for 48 hours?

 

[benwah]

why do people squegee when it needs to dry for 48 hours?

One way of application is to pour the coating on the floor in ribbons then use a squeegee to spread the coating covering the concrete. You would then use a roller to "backroll" the coating for a more uniform finish.

I highly suggest doing a bit more research before taking on this project. Get on Youtube, look how professionals apply epoxy floors.

As for the cleanliness of your floor, if there are contaminants present you have a high risk for failure. Can you pressure was the floor before doing your acid wash? You really should use a pressure washer after the acid etch to make sure you get all of the Muriatic acid out of the concrete.

 

[JD in DFW]

Boy this DIY project has Failure written all over it....should be fun to see how it turns out.

 

[Shea]

BZX759, based on your questions and method of preparing your garage floor, you would be wise to take some of the advice as stated above and research what it is you are about to attempt. With all due respect, your project doesn't sound encouraging.

Putting epoxy down on your garage floor is not like painting a wall. Success or failure is extremely dependent on floor preparation let alone application methods. I suggest you read up some about applying garage floor epoxy. You can find a post here. It's designed for a more complex DIY system than what you want to install, but pay attention to the part about garage floor prep and follow the links about cleaning and etching. I think it will answer a lot of your questions.

After that you will have a better idea of what is involved and how to go about your project.

 

[CT2012]

soap and water and a mop, what could possibly go wrong?



take benwah's advice, do your homework first before buying anything or lifting a finger. proper prep even with rustoleum kit in my case was grinder on an otherwise immaculate concrete floor, etching solution, proper rinse, squeegee & lots of air dry time, and the proper time to cure in between and after the various coats.

 

[drinkmoresake]

+1 an the advice to take your time and do a lot more reserach before starting your project. Also, IF you decide to go with the Rustoleum product make sure to use the Professional EpoxyShield which is solvent based and not water based (I think HD only sells the water based junk). Again, research, research, prep, prep, prep, and then prep a little more!

 

[Askme42]

soap and water and a mop, what could possibly go wrong?



take benwah's advice, do your homework first before buying anything or lifting a finger. proper prep even with rustoleum kit in my case was grinder on an otherwise immaculate concrete floor, etching solution, proper rinse, squeegee & lots of air dry time, and the proper time to cure in between and after the various coats.

I had almost a week of prep in my floor before I finally coated it. I said never again ill just pay someone. Two years later it looks brand new though.

 

[CT2012]

yep. application is relatively easy. the prep is the ballbuster.

most flooring folks in my area are around 5-6 bucks a square foot to do it from a to z.

i've got a lot of other house renovation projects going on that need their share of precious $'s, so it's a recurring allocation/prioritization battle....

but if i didn't, i'd pay it in a heartbeat. one guy (me) vs. 2-3 man pro crew is light years away difference in process and outcome.

 

[RogueFab]

Mop won't do it. You need to scrub. Unless by mop you meant stiff brush. No dirt can be present. The acid etch is for micro surface preparation and texturing of bare concrete. It isn't going to remove dirt.

Good luck.

 

[BZX759]

You guys are making it harder than it really is
This job shouldn't require test strips, a pressure washer, or a concrete scaper. Though those items would make it worthwhile if doing this as a business on a day to day routine.

I, however, am just doing a single garage and am trying to keep unnecessary costs down.

I don't see why muriatic acid wouldn't react to neutrality if on the concrete, doesn't make sense why the pH would need to be checked if the acid reacts with the concrete

This should be a 1 to 2 day project max. Maybe more if clear coating

Do you recommend clear coat? And why?

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

To answer the reactivity question...
You are correct. Your concrete is base and should neutralize.

However, concrete can be subject to cure agents and other treatments which can create a harboring effect.

Skip the test strips and hit the floor with a baking soda water solution.
One cup to one gallon is my suggestion, rinse well and let dry fully.

 

[Trey T]

Wow, great way to make contribution with your attitude.

Boy this DIY project has Failure written all over it....should be fun to see how it turns out.

 

[iibgdi]

Yes. 2 coats will work. In fact that is what I would recommend.

Also, use a higher quality roller. 3/8 nap anti shed. It is very well worth the few extra bucks. Don't skimp on rollers.

I think backrolling is for a different product. Apply this like paint. Just keep a wet edge. Put it on thick and only put flakes on 2nd coat

 

[iibgdi]

Also, no need for spikes. Use lots of lighting though. I also used blocks of wood to help mark my wet edge spots so I stayed on track. Its hard to see sometimes especially if u work at night. I would rather do it in daylight but still may need extra lighting