going vertical

[edl]

don't know about others, but my "shop" is one half of a 2 car garage, so VERY limited regarding space, especially FLOOR space - my quest is to go vertical - one fantastic example, a four post lift recently installed - so 2 cars in for the space of one - of course that eats up a good chunk of the vertical space - a couple of other thoughts are to raise certain tools that are used only occassionally to get them out of the way - for example, grinder/buffer (weight about 60 pounds) - parts washer (about 150-200 with fluid) - my thinking is to try to duplicate a bike storage item that HD or Lowes sells for about 20 - it is a set of 2 pulley's and a couple of independently moveable hooks - problem is that it is weight limited at 50 lbs - does anyone know what a "normal" joist would hold (conservatively) - would it be better to try to screw pulleys right into the joist or to screw a wooden board and then screw the pulleys into that - what have other used? - thanks, stephen

 

[twostory]

I am a rock climber, so this is my advice. Do not screw, bolt, etc anything into the roof truss. Instead, wrap 1 inch webbing around the lumber (2x whatever) and then tie a "water knot" to make a loop. The webbing is cheap, 32 cents/foot at REI.

Anything you put in the wood will weaken it. The 1 inch webbing will support over 1,000 pounds, so it will not be you weak link.

As for what can a truss handle, I walk on my a lot, so 140 pound does not seem to break them at all. If you need more weight capacity, put a 2x6 on edge over a few truss members. Just make sure you spread the load around, i.e. do not put all your pulleys on a single truss.

Note, I am not a structural engineer, so do not trust anything I just said (wink wink).

-----------------------------------
This picture show the webbing wrapped around a tree. You would just need one loop, since you webbing is not going to move.

Here is a link to REI.com

http://www.rei.com/online/store/ProductDisplay?storeId=8000&catalogId=40000008000&productId=48018695&parent_category_rn=4500700&vcat=REI_SEARCH

 

[russlaferrera]

Do you have any room for a shed? That would make life a lot easier.

 

[gahi]

I had a lift point of unkown origin in my shop. I used it to lift all kinds of stuff, Heaviest I ever lifted was a 460 with an auto trans attached. Then just recently I was attempting to lift a 6 cyl diesel. The whole setup came crashing down, including drywall. All that was holding was an eyebolt screwed into a 2x6 joist. I couldn't believe it held as much as it did. figure around 900 lbs for the engine/trans combo. What I ended up doing was putting a piece of 4" x 1/4" channel across 3 joists, then wrapping a piece of 1/2" chain around that. Now I'm confident I can lift the diesel combo. I just glad I didn't kill myself in the process. I should have checked it out, but it was14ft up under finished drywall.

 

[BoCRon]

Here's a pic of my hoist. It's made by Racor and the weight limit is 250lbs. You can find them on ebay for about $110.00.

Lowered for loading

Raised up above door height

Annette

 

[neblinc]

Annette

Did everything come included with your lift? Rack, cables etc. for that price?

Randy

 

[Ed and Sandra]

Here's a pic of my hoist. It's made by Racor and the weight limit is 250lbs. You can find them on ebay for about $110.00.

Hmmm, that apparatus looks like it could be easily modified to accomplish what we're wanting in terms of an attic lift for our garage. See our earlier post:

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7931

Best regards,
Ed and Sandra

 

[neblinc]

I found it on ebay.
Lift

Looks like something I could use.

Randy

 

[BoCRon]

Here's the link, click on "Video Demostration" in the right corner.
http://racorinc.com/products.fx?id=150

Annette

 

[edl]

I found the HF solution that the guys uses in the link ed/sandra provides really neat - in fact, if instead of a trailer corner on each cable you envision a tool - that would be it!! my particular issue is that the space above my garage is finished - so that means drywall attacheched to joists that have decking and then hardwood on top - so i can't envision being able to loop something on top of the joists - instead, like the racor item recommended above (which doesn't work as I don't want to put the larger tools/machines on a platform, but feel it would be easier to joist hoist them straight up) - i have to anchor into the joists from underneath - give that, i suppose that it would be more secure (right??) to screwin a piece of wood that anchored into multiple joists and then screwed a pulley into that? - or do you think it is more secure to bolt right into the joist and hang on it? - i suppose another option is to cut away the drywall and simpson tie on either side of the joist - a final solution (although I think people and Code say to shy from this) is to cut a hole in the vertical middle of the joist and then use the looping something through/hanging it mehtod...thoughts?? thanks! stephen

 

[twostory]

a final solution (although I think people and Code say to shy from this) is to cut a hole in the vertical middle of the joist and then use the looping something through/hanging it mehtod...thoughts?? thanks! stephen

If you could slip a thin strip of steel between the top of the joist and the sub floor that sits on the joist, that would be very strong. This steel would then bend down to make a loop.

Depending on where you are in the span of the joist, you can drill holes in a joist and not weaken the joist. If you are near the wall that the joist sit on, the middle material of the joist is not doing much, but if you are mid span on the joist, the middle material is under more forces.

Look up wood I beams and their install instructions. They explain the concept I am discussing and show where/when they allow holes in an wood I beam.