BellyUpFish
Well-known member
Anyone with a recommendation?
Moderate use keeping 40 acres cleaned up.
Moderate use keeping 40 acres cleaned up.
Gonna get a Stihl chainsaw..
- Thread starter BellyUpFish
- Start date
Finky198
Well-known member
It really depends on the diameter of trees your dealing with and your experience level. I am a tree service owner and operator btw.
I personally would stick with the pro models only due to build quality and reliability. I would in your situation most likely recomend an ms362 or possibly steping up to an ms461 if you need the longer bar and additional power for large trees
For most a 20" bar is very sufficient especially for firewood and general clean up... The 362 will comfortably run upto a 25" bar but will be a little underpowered. While the 461 will run upto a 36" bar with no trouble. I would consider the 461 probably to much of saw for averge consumer
but I don't think you would fit into that demographic?
I personally would stick with the pro models only due to build quality and reliability. I would in your situation most likely recomend an ms362 or possibly steping up to an ms461 if you need the longer bar and additional power for large trees
For most a 20" bar is very sufficient especially for firewood and general clean up... The 362 will comfortably run upto a 25" bar but will be a little underpowered. While the 461 will run upto a 36" bar with no trouble. I would consider the 461 probably to much of saw for averge consumer
but I don't think you would fit into that demographic?scarrylarry
Well-known member
BellyupFish
I know there are plenty of members on here that are in the know and could help you out as far as giving you options... ! If you would like another source for information try Arborisite.com loads of pros on there that use saws for a living .
scarrylarry
I know there are plenty of members on here that are in the know and could help you out as far as giving you options... ! If you would like another source for information try Arborisite.com loads of pros on there that use saws for a living .
scarrylarry
firebox40dash5
Well-known member
- Joined
- Mar 19, 2012
- Messages
- 4,185
I 2nd sticking with the Pro lineup. The low end ones are better than garbage, and the midgrades are OK, but IMO both are overpriced for what you get... like buying a Snap On KRA, you spend proportionally too much for the name.
I've has an MS260 for 12 years, no issues besides low oiling, which should've been fixed under warranty, but I didn't catch it in time, my fault. I've run 361s as well, if you can find a good used one still they're damn good small-midsized saws. Can't comment on the newer (261, 362, etc) models.
I've has an MS260 for 12 years, no issues besides low oiling, which should've been fixed under warranty, but I didn't catch it in time, my fault. I've run 361s as well, if you can find a good used one still they're damn good small-midsized saws. Can't comment on the newer (261, 362, etc) models.
thebeekeeper1
Well-known member
I third the pro saws, which will mean spending ~$600, but it is money WELL SPENT. Other than that I would go to the dealer and let him advise you after you explain your intended uses and needs to him (or her in my case).
You have made a wise choice, so the rest is easy.
You have made a wise choice, so the rest is easy.
Askme42
Well-known member
I need my wife to read this thread. Lol
I just so happen to be a member of that site. First thing they will ask is what type of wood are you cutting. The diameter average of the trees. How much do you have to spend? From your limited information supplied I would start off saying the Stihl MS441 wit a 20 inch bar and chain for starters. A Husky 465 is also an option. Do not forget Dolmar/Makita 6401. Someone will be more than happy to answer your questions, Ken
If you aren't cutting commercially, the bang for your buck is not there for a Stihl pro saw. If you cannot be swayed, I would recommend the MS261 or 362. Both are great saws.
Their homeowner line is generally reliable, but still expensive, and heavy for the displacement. The MS290 would most likely suit you well, there are probably a million of them out there putting firewood on the ground. IIRC they go for around 500 bucks new.
I'd recommend an Echo CS590, 400 bucks and 60cc. Plenty big enough for most of what you'll encounter. Will run a 24" bar if necessary.
Their homeowner line is generally reliable, but still expensive, and heavy for the displacement. The MS290 would most likely suit you well, there are probably a million of them out there putting firewood on the ground. IIRC they go for around 500 bucks new.
I'd recommend an Echo CS590, 400 bucks and 60cc. Plenty big enough for most of what you'll encounter. Will run a 24" bar if necessary.
"a" chainsaw??
For 40 acres I'd go with a 2 saw plan as a minimum. (you might need the second saw if the first one gets pinched)
A good 2 saw plan is MS261 and MS441/MS460.
If you insist on a one saw plan go with MS361/362. (even the Husky fanboys say good thinks about the 361/362).
Skip the Stihl homeowner/farm saws.
For 40 acres I'd go with a 2 saw plan as a minimum. (you might need the second saw if the first one gets pinched)
A good 2 saw plan is MS261 and MS441/MS460.
If you insist on a one saw plan go with MS361/362. (even the Husky fanboys say good thinks about the 361/362).
Skip the Stihl homeowner/farm saws.
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I have an MS290 Farm Boss with a 20" bar.
Stihl has changed up the models a little bit I believe and I believe the Farm Boss is now MS271. Consider what you are doing, cutting and how much you actually plan to use it and make a tip to your local Stihl dealer.
Stihl has changed up the models a little bit I believe and I believe the Farm Boss is now MS271. Consider what you are doing, cutting and how much you actually plan to use it and make a tip to your local Stihl dealer.
drink
Well-known member
Yep, I like the Stihl Pro saws also. The thickness of the tree and the species of wood play a big role. As far as I am concerned I use a 16" Stihl chainsaw and an 18" Stihl saw. My 028 Wood Boss was purchased new in 1986 and it still runs good. The 028 had to have about $200 in parts to keep it running when it turned about 25 years old but it keeps on running.
To name a few I have been cutting pine, oak, maple, gum, dog wood, hickory, etc. My small saw has been chewing them up and spitting them out. I know my saws are small but I know how to use them in ways that I can cut large trees as needed. However, sometimes I do call a tree man to do some of the heavy work.
To name a few I have been cutting pine, oak, maple, gum, dog wood, hickory, etc. My small saw has been chewing them up and spitting them out. I know my saws are small but I know how to use them in ways that I can cut large trees as needed. However, sometimes I do call a tree man to do some of the heavy work.
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I take my chainsaw box with me when I cut at my parents. In it I keep my 16" bar in case I pinch the 20" bar. A second bar with chain is cheaper than a second saw.
That being said, I can't blame anybody for wanting a second saw. Possibly buying the second saw used from CL or an estate auction.
Dick in Wisconsin
Well-known member
My BIL is sitting across the room from me. He is a Stihl dealer. He says you guys who are trashing any of the Stihl lines should perform an unnatural act on yourselves.
He uses all three lines in another business without any trouble. Running them daily for six or seven years. He has a customer who has a Homeowners saw for five years who cuts 16 cords of firewood every year. All the Stihl lines are great. He says most of his repair work is not on Stihl's ... It's on everything else.
He uses all three lines in another business without any trouble. Running them daily for six or seven years. He has a customer who has a Homeowners saw for five years who cuts 16 cords of firewood every year. All the Stihl lines are great. He says most of his repair work is not on Stihl's ... It's on everything else.
drink
Well-known member
Sometimes I clean up storm damage and my 16" and 18" saws do great. My little 1973 garden tractor with its trailer can get into tight places and haul log sections. When the trailer is full I can stick the small 16" saw in the trailer and ride out of the woods.
The damaged trees in the pictures were all cut with my 16" 028 Stihl Wood Boss without a problem. The tractor pulled all the sections out of the woods to the truck and I hauled them off to a recycling center.
The damaged trees in the pictures were all cut with my 16" 028 Stihl Wood Boss without a problem. The tractor pulled all the sections out of the woods to the truck and I hauled them off to a recycling center.
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Tell him I agree that the homeowner/farm saws are reliable. Here are the problems:
- They're pigs in power to weight ratio (ie uncompetitive)
- They're not that great a value. You can generally get better value from Husky or Dolmar.
- They're not easy to work on due to the plastic clamshell style design. (vs. a pro saw that can be rebuilt/repaired on a pickup tailgate in the field with just 3 tools).
- The aftermarket parts offering is huge with Stihl pro saws. It's much weaker with homeowner class saws.
I did that years ago (ebay actually). Never again. If I buy a used chainsaw again, it will be from my local dealer or from the Arborist site mentioned above (I'm a member there too) or over on Hearth.com from one of the long time respected members.
chrispyny
Well-known member
listen man. Congrats if you want a stihl. They are great saws.
Have you thought about a Husqvarna? I have had a 55 rancher since i was 22 years old, 15 years now, and it runs like a raped ape, and i have NEVER bought a part for it.
Just bought a 445 last weekend. It runs like a younger raped Ape.
I just today posted about this subject on my other favorite website/forum. let me paste the contents below, and just read and make up your own mind.
From another website i posted at today.
-----------
I am a huge fan of the heavy duty line of husqvarna saws over the stihls.
Stihls are fantastic saws but are warm blooded. Which means they can be hard to start and take a while to warm up. Husqvarnas are cold blooded and start far easier when cold. Stihl saws have more metal parts to them which is good but makes them heavier. Husqvarna does have more plastic to them, but metal in all the right places which makes the saws a bit lighter than stihls. It's a ford vs chevy thing. I LOVE my Husqvarna saws.
I have had a 55 rancher with factory 20" bar since 2001. That baby has never let me sown. Starts every time, never runs rough, always cuts and doesn't want to stop. Same saw, NO new parts in almost fifteen years. But its a bulldozer. Big engine, big bar, tons of torque.
I needed a lighter saw with a 16" bar this past week. I have been on vacation all this week and split about 3 cords of wood earlier this week. In preparation, i found a Husqvarna 445 that a local hardware store price matched lowes price. So for $320, i bought it. Factory 16" saw ( power head can accomodate up to 20" bar per specs), and its husqvarnas 'heavy duty' line. It runs like a screaming banshee. I LOVE it. The guy at hardware store called it a 'speed saw', i guess cause its lighter, faster, and smaller bar. He was right.
Husqvarna makes four lines of saws. Casual use, light duty, heavy duty and pro.
Both my 55 rancher ( the old version of the new 455 ) and my new 445 are considered heavy duty use saws and i agree.
Most importantly even though you didn't ask is to use quality 2 stroke oil in your mix ( i love husqvarnas 2 stroke, its blue, easy to see, and quality), ALWAYS mix at a perfect 50:1 ratio ( 40:1 if saw is new for first tank) and in the winter use winter grade bar oil. Its thinner and flows out the chain oiler better when cold. And summer grade oil for the warmer days.
So i'm not a pro but have cut down, and split and stacked many a cord wood over the years.
When a bar is cold, tighten the chain till all slack is out, then lift the already loose bar, and lightly tighten almost all of the remainder of the slack out of the chain except a bit. Then snug up the bolt tightly which will **** the remaining slack out of the chain. The chain should almost want to spin when the saw is at an idle.
When the saw is hot, carefully snug up the chain up to the bar 'without' lifting the bar up to take the remaining slack out. *remember* to loosen the chain after done with saw if you tighten while hot, as chain will cool and shrink, which could damage the crank if it shrinks enough to become overtight when cold.
Now i know i'm very long winded on this but, i also just spent $140 on a timberline chainsaw sharpener and i will NEVER use another sharpener again. Our chains on the 445 are .325 pitch. Which equates to 'medium 3/16" carbide on timberlines website. Use that info if you plan to buy the sharpener.
Sharpen often even if not very dull. NEVER rotate carbine sharpener counterclockwise. EVER. only clockwise. Its a godsend.
Enjoy.
Have you thought about a Husqvarna? I have had a 55 rancher since i was 22 years old, 15 years now, and it runs like a raped ape, and i have NEVER bought a part for it.
Just bought a 445 last weekend. It runs like a younger raped Ape.
I just today posted about this subject on my other favorite website/forum. let me paste the contents below, and just read and make up your own mind.
From another website i posted at today.
-----------
I am a huge fan of the heavy duty line of husqvarna saws over the stihls.
Stihls are fantastic saws but are warm blooded. Which means they can be hard to start and take a while to warm up. Husqvarnas are cold blooded and start far easier when cold. Stihl saws have more metal parts to them which is good but makes them heavier. Husqvarna does have more plastic to them, but metal in all the right places which makes the saws a bit lighter than stihls. It's a ford vs chevy thing. I LOVE my Husqvarna saws.
I have had a 55 rancher with factory 20" bar since 2001. That baby has never let me sown. Starts every time, never runs rough, always cuts and doesn't want to stop. Same saw, NO new parts in almost fifteen years. But its a bulldozer. Big engine, big bar, tons of torque.
I needed a lighter saw with a 16" bar this past week. I have been on vacation all this week and split about 3 cords of wood earlier this week. In preparation, i found a Husqvarna 445 that a local hardware store price matched lowes price. So for $320, i bought it. Factory 16" saw ( power head can accomodate up to 20" bar per specs), and its husqvarnas 'heavy duty' line. It runs like a screaming banshee. I LOVE it. The guy at hardware store called it a 'speed saw', i guess cause its lighter, faster, and smaller bar. He was right.
Husqvarna makes four lines of saws. Casual use, light duty, heavy duty and pro.
Both my 55 rancher ( the old version of the new 455 ) and my new 445 are considered heavy duty use saws and i agree.
Most importantly even though you didn't ask is to use quality 2 stroke oil in your mix ( i love husqvarnas 2 stroke, its blue, easy to see, and quality), ALWAYS mix at a perfect 50:1 ratio ( 40:1 if saw is new for first tank) and in the winter use winter grade bar oil. Its thinner and flows out the chain oiler better when cold. And summer grade oil for the warmer days.
So i'm not a pro but have cut down, and split and stacked many a cord wood over the years.
When a bar is cold, tighten the chain till all slack is out, then lift the already loose bar, and lightly tighten almost all of the remainder of the slack out of the chain except a bit. Then snug up the bolt tightly which will **** the remaining slack out of the chain. The chain should almost want to spin when the saw is at an idle.
When the saw is hot, carefully snug up the chain up to the bar 'without' lifting the bar up to take the remaining slack out. *remember* to loosen the chain after done with saw if you tighten while hot, as chain will cool and shrink, which could damage the crank if it shrinks enough to become overtight when cold.
Now i know i'm very long winded on this but, i also just spent $140 on a timberline chainsaw sharpener and i will NEVER use another sharpener again. Our chains on the 445 are .325 pitch. Which equates to 'medium 3/16" carbide on timberlines website. Use that info if you plan to buy the sharpener.
Sharpen often even if not very dull. NEVER rotate carbine sharpener counterclockwise. EVER. only clockwise. Its a godsend.
Enjoy.
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My Old Tools
Well-known member
I picked up a MS 260 a few years ago off of CL. I passed on a bunch before I found it. It was in a Stihl case and still had paint on the bar. It belnged to an older man and was a homeowner saw. It probably had 30 minutes of run time and was 5+ years old. It has been a great saw. Been through a bar or two, a sprocket, a clutch, and fuel lines/filter. All wear items. Local dealer soaked me for $100 for the fuel line and filter and wanted $160 more for the sprocket and clutch. I paid him the $100, took the saw and told him to F himself. A new carb is $20 online. It cost me $20 and 10 minutes to do the sprocket and clutch.
Husky 55 like a bulldozer? He should take my 038 Mag for a whirl.. It's got torque for days.
I've never noticed a correlation between Stihl and Husqvarna cold starting behavior. My Stihl 066 will more or less run perfect right out of the gate, while my Husqvarna 545 will bog until it's warmed up for a couple minutes. I've had saws that behaved in the opposite manner as well.
I do prefer Husqvarna though, the power/weight is almost always better, as is the cost. Especially in the homeowner product lines.
nickelmore
Well-known member
I run to as well MS360 and a MS260.
The 260 does most of the wok i need done.
I am also looking at a top handle saw to add to the collection. Big saws get heavy for cleanup work.
The 260 does most of the wok i need done.
I am also looking at a top handle saw to add to the collection. Big saws get heavy for cleanup work.
stihlntime
Well-known member
Stay away from 460 455 450 350 240 235 etc Huskies bottom end is plastic,crankshaftbrides in no metal at all junk junk junk. Husky XP are good saws. I'm certified on Echo, Husky,Shindawia, and Stihl,sell them all. I'll take the Stihl anyway,warranty support is the best in the business as is parts availability. Guys on here talk about being made in the USA, Stihl makes the majority of there product in the USA. Pro saws are still made in Germany. I farm and the boys ran a firewood business for five years selling over 300 cord a year for college funds. We have a MS 361 that has cut over 1500 cord. I would recommend a Stihl MS 362 CM for what your wanting to do. The only PRO Stihl I do not recommend is the 441,there have been issues with them.If you feel the need for a 70cc saw which is overkill imho buy the MS 461. A perfect combo would be a MS 271 with a 18" bar for small stuff and the MS 362 with a 20" bar for the bigger stuff.
Looks like metal to me..... Same basic design as a Stihl, except that Husky molds the bottom crankcase half into the plastic chassis, Stihls are bolted and can be removed as a short block assembly.
Askme42
Well-known member
Man I'm looking at the ms 362 and everyone keeps saying ~$600. $750 is not $600 lol
Askme42
Well-known member
Duplicate
I wouldn't recommend a top handle saw unless you are a professional arborist that works in a bucket or in a tree. The geometry makes them much more prone to kickback.
There are plenty of lightweight rear handle saws that will be much safer for ground cleanup work.
Bondo
Well-known member
Ayuh,.... But they sure are Handy for rough carpentry work, buckin' up pallets, trimmin' lilacs, 'n a whole bunch of other one handed work,....
From the little info in the Op, I gotta agree, the MS 290 oughta get the job done,...
stretch5881
Active member
If it were me, I would get the Echo CS-450 and spend what you saved on chaps' hard hat and shield. This saw is big enough for cutting logs and light enough for limbing.
Nothing wrong with Stihl, just don't like the price.
I don't believe the man needs 2 pro saws for cleaning up 40 acres.
Nothing wrong with Stihl, just don't like the price.
I don't believe the man needs 2 pro saws for cleaning up 40 acres.
shortykorte
Well-known member
I've had the Stihl Farm Boss for 14yrs and it's never let me down. I've worked it hard and still (pun oops) works great.
stihlntime
Well-known member
I stand corrected on the unit pictured, I've had several 350's apart and no metal bottom end the crank sits in nothing but plastic.
OP
BellyUpFish
Well-known member
Thanks for all the replies guys.
I'm looking at the Stihl 251C-BE at the moment. I'm not locked into one over another, I'm open to quality saws.
I am eyeing the Dolmar 421, as I've been told it's better than the Stihl? Still reading up.
Stihl was my first thought, as the saw I've always used (my pops) is a Stihl MS250 and I like it. A lot, actually. He recently upgraded to a Stihl 250C-BE, and while I don't have "trouble" starting anything with a pull string, I broke my olecranon 4 years ago and it's nice to have something that is "easier" to start.
I've also got a good friend who works for a Stihl dealer and can get me a smoking deal.
I'm looking at the Stihl 251C-BE at the moment. I'm not locked into one over another, I'm open to quality saws.
I am eyeing the Dolmar 421, as I've been told it's better than the Stihl? Still reading up.
Stihl was my first thought, as the saw I've always used (my pops) is a Stihl MS250 and I like it. A lot, actually. He recently upgraded to a Stihl 250C-BE, and while I don't have "trouble" starting anything with a pull string, I broke my olecranon 4 years ago and it's nice to have something that is "easier" to start.
I've also got a good friend who works for a Stihl dealer and can get me a smoking deal.
Dick in Wisconsin
Well-known member
I've also got a good friend who works for a Stihl dealer and can get me a smoking deal.
Light it up!
pauls_workshop
Well-known member
Though nothing wrong with Stihls, I'm just loving my Echo CS-590, a 60 cc saw, that can be had 30% off when Zoro has their big sales like today on Cyber Monday. I use mine for milling, as well as felling and everything else too. It can almost be a single saw, just a bit heavy for the little cleanup, but so fast, it can be swung almost like a hedge trimmer to deal with the little branches! I'm milling some 20" wide english walnut with mine lately. People say oh you need an 80 or 100 cc saw to mill wood - bunch of hogwash. The echo does it fine, just at a slower rate, like 1" every 3 seconds or so milling in the walnut with my Alaskan mill. I'm thinking of getting a 2nd one maybe next year I love it so much. Can't imagine a 60 cc or 50 cc saw or even 65 cc saw any better for the money than the echo. Better than Huskies at twice the price when it is on the big sale. - Paul
pauls_workshop
Well-known member
Hey Stihlintime: I would like your opinion on 70cc or 80cc class saws you like, with milling in mind. I am running a 28" bar with full skip milling chain on the Echo and it does just fine with that size with the full skip. I'm sold on full skip now for all milling chains so the wood can get out. I make 2" long streams of wood chips milling this way, no sawdust for me. Sharpen all myself. Someday maybe a Dolmar, but I'm so happy with the Echo I don't know if I need it for hobby milling. - Paul
drink
Well-known member
Thanks for all the replies guys.
I'm looking at the Stihl 251C-BE at the moment. I'm not locked into one over another, I'm open to quality saws.
I am eyeing the Dolmar 421, as I've been told it's better than the Stihl? Still reading up.
Stihl was my first thought, as the saw I've always used (my pops) is a Stihl MS250 and I like it. A lot, actually. He recently upgraded to a Stihl 250C-BE, and while I don't have "trouble" starting anything with a pull string, I broke my olecranon 4 years ago and it's nice to have something that is "easier" to start.
I've also got a good friend who works for a Stihl dealer and can get me a smoking deal.
Do you know if Dolmar is owned by Stihl? Does the Dolmar 421 have a 4 stroke engine or a 2 stroke engine? It looks like the EPA has done something about the premix fuel causing clouds of smoke. They discussed global warming earlier on the evening news.
pauls_workshop
Well-known member
Dolmar is not owned by Stihl and is 2 stroke, but they are German designed like Stihl. I've not yet used one but they are very highly regarded and probably what I would get if I need an 80 cc or higher saw some time later on (but I want to hear from Stihlintime too). - Paul
sam.coll
Well-known member
Dolmar is owned by Makita.
Blown72Duster
New member
I have two sthil saws my small one is a ms362 with a 20 I ch bar, also have a 25 inch bar for it, and my larger saw is a ms461 with a 28 inch bar love both of them. The pro saws are the way to go.
Finky198
Well-known member
I would say that some of reasons you don't see many people recommending or using 70cc to 80cc (ex ms460 6hp upto 36" bar) saws is the fact that not a very highly targeted market
While there is a very high market for a 50-60cc (ex ms362 5hp up 25" bar ) range for tree care, clean up, and fire wood market. Were as 90-100cc (ex ms660 7hp 36"+ bar ) range which is used for milling, heavy logging, tree care, commercial fire wood. The intermediate seems to be unnecessary. Don't get me wrong the 441 and 460 are great saws if you can only have one, but if you work in production enovironment where you need 2 or more saws that cover a broader range of power for specific task...
I am currently running ms192, ms201t, ms362, ms660 which cover pretty much every thing I can possibly come across day to day. I'd really like to get an ms241 to complete the range
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pauls_workshop
Well-known member
Thanks Finky, you are clearly in the "Pro" category, whereas I'm a 30 year chainsaw user but only for personal use/hobby milling use, but on a real budget. I guess my question is mainly: What best buy 70 or 80 cc or bigger class saws would one recommend for mainly milling purposes, with a budget in mind, new or used? Not limited to Sthils. For used say good ones but not more than 10 years out of production so you can still find parts. Professional build quality a must, but optimum power/weight not so critical. A list to keep an eye out for when I happen to find a deal on one is what I'm thinking of. thx- Paul