Gonna get a Stihl chainsaw..

[Davefr]

Thanks Finky, you are clearly in the "Pro" category, whereas I'm a 30 year chainsaw user but only for personal use/hobby milling use, but on a real budget. I guess my question is mainly: What best buy 70 or 80 cc or bigger class saws would one recommend for mainly milling purposes, with a budget in mind, new or used? Not limited to Sthils. For used say good ones but not more than 10 years out of production so you can still find parts. Professional build quality a must, but optimum power/weight not so critical. A list to keep an eye out for when I happen to find a deal on one is what I'm thinking of. thx- Paul

Here's what you do:
1. Go to a Home Depot rental center when they're turning over their chainsaw rental fleet. (they're Makita DCS-6401s). The HD beancounters make them sell the rental tools every 2-3 years for accounting/tax reasons. These saws are professional grade and spend most of the time sitting on a shelf and are usually well maintained. Price will probably be around $200+.

2. Now go to Bailey's and get a Dolmar 7900 cylinder/piston kit or a big bore kit. The top end swap is easy to do. Now you have a 79CC saw with a brand new top end.

3. Now remove the muffler and open it up and/or add a dual port.

The end result will be a saw that's 10% less less weight, 10% more power and <50% of the price of a Stihl MS660 Magnum.

 

[pauls_workshop]

Thanks Davefr, that may be the cheapest way to get to 79cc. Is that the limit for the Dolmar saw or could it go even higher cc? What about bigger than that? 90, 100 ccs? What to look for there used? - Paul

 

[iroc409]

I have a Stihl electric weedeater, and it's great. Lots of power, no maintenance, good stuff.

We have Stihl chain saws and K12s on our fire trucks, and they are a pain in the rear. They have always been really hard to start. We had a 20 year old Pioneer Partner that would start on one or two pulls every time, and run like a champ. Sometimes getting the Stihl stuff started required more than one person as you wear out the first (I kid, sort of..). They run fine once you get them started, though!

For this reason alone, I would really consider a different brand first. I know Stihl makes a good product, but all of the Stihl chainsaws and K12's I've used were difficult.

 

[Finky198]

I would say a ms660 would be probably be the best for the milling environment power, bar length, while there is a slight weight penalty this has little effect during your intended use. The ms460 would be small step down and though very powerful is more for a weight conscious saw for production felling environments. If that make sense.

I'm not sure the type or size of milling ur doing but the ms660 is basically limitless. As well The stihl pro saws have a great resell value if you're ever choose to move on from your milling endeavors.

While there are plenty of other good brands The main reason I really don't recommend saws other than stihl or husky is they tend to be more limited in there accesses to parts, resale, repair, and local service.

I have bought a few used stihls. If your mechanically inclined there are really not too many serious problems that can go wrong with a chainsaw powerhead in itself. As long as you have good compression, nothing is bent or burnt, and the oiler is working. You should be fine with a basic tune up (spark plug, fuel filter, air filter, bar, sprocket, and chain) and possibly a carb kit or just a good cleaning. Which is basically what I do annually to keep our saws running year after year...

You also have options to modding stihl saws things like porting/polishing, dual port mufflers, and big bore kits are available. I can give you a contact info if you would not want to do this yourself

I hope this helps clear things up a little bit for you.

MS660 36" bar

 

[bpankratz]

I love my MS261.

 

[shamrock12]

"a" chainsaw??

For 40 acres I'd go with a 2 saw plan as a minimum. (you might need the second saw if the first one gets pinched)

A good 2 saw plan is MS261 and MS441/MS460.

If you insist on a one saw plan go with MS361/362. (even the Husky fanboys say good thinks about the 361/362).

Skip the Stihl homeowner/farm saws.

Ditto.

I have had MS260 and MS460 with 18" and 25" bars, respectably. Both are great saws but if I were to do it again, I would get either of those following combinations: MS261 and MS441 OR MS241 and MS362

The MS460 is an awesome saw but I found out quickly that it is significantly a big jump from MS260, so I tend to grab the smaller one for general work including bucking, unless the diameter is over 10-12" softwood. If I had gotten the MS440 instead of MS460, I probably would have reached out for it more often and it would have still be plenty powerful for what I need.

I've ended up selling the MS460 since I've moved to South Dakota but kept the MS260 which is a great all-around saw. If I were to move again somewhere in a densely wooded area, I probably will be trading it in for MS241 and MS362 with 16" and 20" bars, respectably. I would use MS241 for limbing and bucking smaller diameter wood, and use MS362 for bucking larger diameter wood and felling.

 

[404]

Is a controlled burn a effective or sensible option? Really just asking, assume I know nothing and you will be close to the truth.

 

[Finky198]

Is a controlled burn a effective or sensible option? Really just asking, assume I know nothing and you will be close to the truth.

Most municipalities have outlawed the burning of debris, brush, and leaves. it has a lot to do with the epa and fire risk. It is very efficient but always check your local laws...

 

[Finky198]

The MS460 is an awesome saw but I found out quickly that it is significantly a big jump from MS260, so I tend to grab the smaller one for general work including bucking, unless the diameter is over 10-12" softwood. If I had gotten the MS440 instead of MS460, I probably would have reached out for it more often and it would have still be plenty powerful for what I need.

I've ended up selling the MS460 since I've moved to South Dakota but kept the MS260 which is a great all-around saw. If I were to move again somewhere in a densely wooded area, I probably will be trading it in for MS241 and MS362 with 16" and 20" bars, respectably. I would use MS241 for limbing and bucking smaller diameter wood, and use MS362 for bucking larger diameter wood and felling.

This is very well said. having 2 saws with at least one step up in power is a good recommendation be it an
ms241/ms362 or ms261/ms460 or ms362/ms660
just choose what works for the size of wood you deal with and your comfort / experience level

 

[Farmall450]

I have an MS290 Farm Boss with a 20" bar.

Stihl has changed up the models a little bit I believe and I believe the Farm Boss is now MS271. Consider what you are doing, cutting and how much you actually plan to use it and make a tip to your local Stihl dealer.

Also have a ms290 farmboss, I can't see a reason to go to the "pro" models.

 

[stihlntime]

Recommending a 7901 or 660 for 40 acres is ludicrous. Someone must be on aboristsite too much. I used to be a top 20 participant over there for over 5 years under another name It's nothing but a enthusiast saw porting site, far from reality and the common users needs. I have a race ported MS 460 turning 16700 rpm sure isn't what you need for acres. One saw plan MS 362 20" bar. Two saw 362 and a 271with a 18". I have over 20 saws the most used on the farm is a little Ole 261 with a 18" bar, the second most used is a 361. Clearing 40 acres is not like llogging.My least used saws are the 660 and Husky 395xp. A 70+ c saw on a farm is overkill. If you think you just have to have one get a MS 440 or 461.

 

[BellyUpFish]

I appreciate all the comments guys..

Pretty sure the MS251 CB-E is what I'll be bringing home..

 

[MrGiggles]

Get an Echo CS590 for the same money. Twice the saw, 5 year warranty.

 

[Finky198]

Recommending a 7901 or 660 for 40 acres is ludicrous. Someone must be on aboristsite too much. I used to be a top 20 participant over there for over 5 years under another name It's nothing but a enthusiast saw porting site, far from reality and the common users needs. I have a race ported MS 460 turning 16700 rpm sure isn't what you need for acres. One saw plan MS 362 20" bar. Two saw 362 and a 271with a 18". I have over 20 saws the most used on the farm is a little Ole 261 with a 18" bar, the second most used is a 361. Clearing 40 acres is not like llogging.My least used saws are the 660 and Husky 395xp. A 70+ c saw on a farm is overkill. If you think you just have to have one get a MS 440 or 461.

That is exactly why am no longer an active member of arborist site it's just one big contest

I never suggested that the op buy or use a 660 which would be total overkill for his needs. I agree that a 241, 261, 362, or 460 would be much better suited for his need. Of which I truly believe the 460 would probably be overkill, for most users more so just because of the weight especially if you only have on saw...

When I suggested the 660 that was for the gentlaman that was interested in milling lumber. Which as you know the 660 is probably the most common saw used for milling lumber.

The main reason behind my thinking is having two saws to close in size and bar length completely defeats the purpose of having a 2 saw plan. The key is having one light weight saw with a 16"-20" bar for limbing and clean up, and a lager saw with say 20"-36" bar for felling and bucking with at least one if not two steps of power increase. All depending on your cutting need of course.