Good 1/2 Torque Wrench - DIY

[Banana Man]

Not a professional just a DIY'er looking for my first 1/2 Torque Wrench for basic jobs dealing with car maintenance, brakes, tire rotation, changing struts etc. etc.

Looking for something quality that will hold up and hopefully won't need recalibration. Budget up to $250ish.

Considering the Precision Instruments Split Beam or one of the many Digital options.

 

[RKA]

The PI split beam is a solid choice without spending crazy money. The flex head is a must for me.

Last weekend I was helping a neighbor work on his brakes and his digital craftsman TW flaked out likely from sitting in the sun. The previous weekend it completely shut off from overheating, this weekend it suddenly stopped giving the audible warning that it reached torque spec. My PI wrench came to the rescue.

There are certain instances a digital is helpful, but it’s got batteries and electronics in it. For your use (and mine), the old style clickers are reliable and cheaper and they do what we need.

 

[FordFanatic]

I have the Husky 3/8 and 1/2 sizes from Home Depot and use them for the same purposes you intend - DIY vehicle maintenance, etc. Never had any issues with them and given that their warranty is excellent and easy to deal with should you need to - would most likely serve you well.

I also have older Craftsman Digitork (not digital) wrenches bought way back in the 1980's that still work well but almost always reach for the Husky wrenches these days.

Anyways, just a thought...

Cheers,
Tim

 

[firworks]

PI Split Beam is the only way to go. One of my favorite tools. Easily within your budget too.
View media item 60928View media item 60926View media item 60925View media item 60927

 

[TuxThePenguin]

PI (from a site like Tooltopia) or CDI (from a site like ToolsDelivered or maybe Zoro if you use a coupon)

Split beam type if you don't mind only going right-hand with it. You don't have to reset it after each use to prevent wear. Micrometer/click type should be reset so you don't wear out the spring inside, but they typically can go either direction.

(Get a dial type as well if you need to measure bearing preloads or anything like that, though this isn't really related to your specific question.)

 

[Downwindtracker 2]

I guess when you say split beam, you mean the old pointer style. I picked up one ex-rental off the clearance table real cheap, they don't go bad like the clickers do. I use it to test the clickers . I have a Wright branded one that goes to 250# that paid good money for. And a couple of $20 clickers for road side tire changes. Travel trailers need to be checked regularly.

 

[anndel]

PI split beam. Got mine from Amazon with free shipping about 10 years go and I leave it at 76 ft-lbf all the time for torquing wheel lugs.

 

[nicks78camaro]

Another vote for PI split beam

 

[BlakeTheCarGuy]

I use the Precision Instruments one at work and Harbor Freight one at home but if you plan on spending $250 I would buy the Precision Instruments one was they used to make the the torque wrenches for Snap-on back in the day but they don’t anymore they are always good and accurate and as long as you don’t drop it then it will be fine.

 

[Skin]

I guess when you say split beam, you mean the old pointer style.

Split beam refers to a torque wrench design where there is literally a separation in the beam that runs from the handle to the head.

The old style with the pointer are generally just called beam or deflecting beam torque wrenches.

 

[Banana Man]

PI (from a site like Tooltopia) or CDI (from a site like ToolsDelivered or maybe Zoro if you use a coupon)

Split beam type if you don't mind only going right-hand with it. You don't have to reset it after each use to prevent wear. Micrometer/click type should be reset so you don't wear out the spring inside, but they typically can go either direction.

(Get a dial type as well if you need to measure bearing preloads or anything like that, though this isn't really related to your specific question.)

Thanks all for your replies.

Looks like I'll go ahead with the PI wondering why you recommend Tooltopia? I found it cheaper on Amazon?

 

[TuxThePenguin]

Oh, don't think Amazon had it when I bought mine

 

[Banana Man]

Oh, don't think Amazon had it when I bought mine

Gotcha thanks I was just wondering if there was some benefit to shopping with Tooltopia I was overlooking. Appreciate the reply!

 

[firworks]

Tooltopia or Amazon are fine, the important thing is don't pay 250$ for it!

You know... with the savings you could grab the 3/8" 100-600 in-lb one too.

 

[visionguru]

Not a professional just a DIY'er looking for my first 1/2 Torque Wrench for basic jobs dealing with car maintenance, brakes, tire rotation, changing struts etc. etc.

Looking for something quality that will hold up and hopefully won't need recalibration. Budget up to $250ish.

Considering the Precision Instruments Split Beam or one of the many Digital options.

I'm a DIYer and like to play with torque wrenches, currently have Snap On Techangle in 1/2, 3/8, 1/4, and Gearwrench in 1/2 and 3/8. I rarely need 1/2, have only used for the lug nuts of my Audi (105 ft-lb) and axle nuts of my Honda. 3/8" has seen more usage.

If I were you, I'd get a Snap On 3/8" or the newest Gearwrench. Not sure why you are considering Split Beam, which is really old school and cannot compete with newer designs.

For DIY, even a $10 Harbor Freight is not bad at all. I had been using a Harbor Freight 3/8 for a long time, until at about 15th year mark, the lock nut frozen due to lack of use and maintenance. HF replaced it with a brand new one, which proved to be pretty accurate, about 2% across the range. No where else offers lifetime warranty for torque wrenches.

 

[TuxThePenguin]

Honestly, if you're getting one, I say stick with 1/2". Most people aren't needing to shove a torque wrench up in a small place. Most people are doing large bolts, lug nuts, axle nuts etc with torque wrenches. And people who are using them for more than that probably ought to have several torque wrenches including a 1/2" split beam and/or micrometer, a 3/8" split beam and/or micrometer, a 3/8" or 1/4" dial type, and perhaps also a 3/8" beam type, etc.

 

[dnschmidt]

I'm a torque wrench *****. I've got at least 25 of them. Everything from Eclatorq digital with angle to Gearwrench digital with angle and everything in between. For a DIY guy that wants to set it and forget it it's the PI split beam. They beat the **** out of these at Discount Tire every day and they take it. Not my choice for building an engine and I'm not wild about the fact that the amount of click that you get depends upon the torque setting. The higher the louder. But for a buy one and die with it type of tool they can't be beat.

 

[908Jim]

Get a Proto from Ebay! I've gotten two of them for under $100 in phenomenal condition. Generally, they are older revisions so the letter after the part numbers may be earlier.

Cheap to calibrate and adjust and the build quality is good. The last one I picked up was made in the late 90's based on the calibration certificate that was in the case. I had it checked by our calibration department and it was within 4% from 20% to 100% of the range.

 

[pbon]

Calibration is not cheap for the average person who has to hire a shop to do it. You can check the calibration yourself, though, for free using guidance you can search for on the internet.

 

[908Jim]

Calibration is not cheap for the average person who has to hire a shop to do it. You can check the calibration yourself, though, for free using guidance you can search for on the internet.

You can generally get them calibrated for about $30-50 locally. Provided you don't drop it or use it daily, that calibration will likely last the average person years.

 

[64merc]

Ok guys, I remembered this thread since it's recent, and I need to share a story.

I just bought one of those HF digital torque adapters and thought I would test out all of my torque wrenches. I have several different brands, with most being click type. As far as brands, two are NOS CDI-made Urrea, and three are Mountz of varying quality, and another dial type 3/8" made in Germany (used from Pawn Shop). I bought most of them brand new with calibration certificates and cases, and have babied those damn things since I got them.

Anyway...so when I got them off the shelf I noticed an old Proto 1/2" click style torque wrench underneath everything (no case). I got that old Proto from a pile of odds and ends that my grandpa had in his shop when he passed away about 18 years ago. The handle is nice and worn down from use, and it definitely looks old. Well, wouldn't you know it, that old Proto was the most accurate of all of them!!...very repeatable accuracy!! Runner up was the old dial type from the pawn shop. Now, I realize this was just a DIY style test, but still impressive.

I would have NEVER in a million years guessed that the old Proto that was thrown in a pile would even work, let alone be accurate. I pictured my grandpa smiling down at me when I was testing it.

 

[seber]

How do you know the HF wrench is accurate?

 

[64merc]

How do you know the HF wrench is accurate?

Well, I don't know for sure, but it comes with an individual calibration certificate, whatever that is worth. But more so, each torque wrench I tested had fairly consistent numbers, just not exactly what I had set them to on a couple. And they were all slightly different than the others, but consistent (does this make sense?). For instance, one was 10 under at every setting, and another was always about 5 under. The old Proto was spot on though! Not laboratory accurate, but good enough for driveway purposes I think.

Also, the 3/8 dial type is in Nm up to 40, and it was spot on pretty much to the digital torque adapter.

If my logic is flawed, please explain. I am far from an expert.

 

[shockwave]

Look for a nos on eBay for older husky (Armstrong/kd made) has knurled handle I paid around 80 new

Or look for used on eBay you can find proto/Mac/snap on or Matco for around 100

And even Facebook marketplace too

 

[dnschmidt]

For the cash the Harbor Freight ICON in clicker style and Quinn in digital with angle are almost impossible to beat. With the ever increasing use of torque to yield fasteners I think the Quinn digital (which are made by Eclatorq in Taiwan a top tier manufacturer) are the way to go.

I've got a lot of the PI split beam and they are bullet proof but they aren't the most elegant tools as their ratchets are very low tooth count and they only work on right handed fasteners. Also no angle measurement and, as stated, this is becoming a normal part of torquing life.

 

[DugT]

I'm a home DIY guy and I recently bought an Icon 1/2" torque wrench because it seems like an excellent torque wrench for $88 if you use a 20% off coupon. Also, Icon tools have a lifetime warranty which is hard to find in a torque wrench. That warranty doesn't include calibration but most newer torque wrenches are easy to calibrate using a scale or special tool which HF also sells. 1/2" is an excellent size for lug nuts and some other car parts. I use a 1/4" for bicycle parts.

The PI dual beam is an excellent wrench but the lower price and lifetime warrantly sold me the Icon. The excellent Icon's case is icing on the cake. I think you would be real happy with either one.

 

[TuxThePenguin]

PI case is as nice as literally any torque wrench case I've seen too.

Icon seems pretty decent though

 

[DugT]

PI case is as nice as literally any torque wrench case I've seen too.

Icon seems pretty decent though

Have you seen the Icon case? I had an Icon and a PI next to each other and the Icon case is much better. It has metal hinges and metal latches. The PI case has the usual plastic latches like the ones that broke off of the case of my Matco Torque wrench.

 

[WinMod21]

Not 1/2", but . . .
I'm starting to feel like I've fallen into torque wrench purchasing Groundhog Day. ;~\

A) I recently purchased a Craftsman 3/8-in Drive - Clicker Style MicroTork® Torque Wrench [ Model# 31423 — w/torque range capacity: 25 to 250 in. lbs. & 3.61 to 29.03 N-m, in torque increments are: 1.0 in. lbs. & .11 N-m].... without first reading any reviews on it (except a few on the Sears website, where it's currently $20 less than the amaz price), as my old USA made Craftsman torque wrenches always worked great without any reason—that I knew of—to question the calibration.

But after picking it up and reading deeper into the Sears user reviews, as well as many 'critical' reviews on amaz, regarding calibration being 'way off' out-of-the-box and/or the ratcheting heads or pawls breaking after just a few uses, etc-etc, I decided to return it rather than take the chance that mine doesn't break or have issues— since the Sears warranty is only for 1 year.

B) So after more research, both here @ GJ and online, I decided to get a pro quality CDI 30~250 in/lbs wrench, which is approx double the price of the Craftsman 'MicroTork'. But USA made and highly recommended &c.

Then I came to my senses , remembering the only reason I'm looking for an in/lbs. & N-m torque wrench....is to do some work on our John Deere GT225 - Kohler 15hp engine (of which most torque specs are in in./lbs & N-m).

C) So then thought, (quoting my mumbling)...'Heck, I've lived my whole life without ever needing an in/lbs TW before, and I may never need it again - especially if we sell the John Deere, &c; I'm just gonna go with the cheapest and hope for the best!'

D) So I get home yesterday and unwrap/unbox my new HF 20~200 1/4" torque wrench, (cost: $15.99 w/HF super coupon). Only to find that the torque scales are out of whack— between the scale on the twisting handle - and the scale on the shaft. So now I need to return it back to HF.

E) Fast Forward to Today .... Just ordered the Tekton 1/4" Drive Click Torque Wrench (20-200 in.-lb.). With lifetime warranty. Just got email it will arrive tomorrow.

. . . Anyways, I just hope I haven't misplaced any of the blower housing & heat deflector & baffle screws, and/or nuts needed to re-install the carburetor on the John Deere!

Saw the Icon TW's [1/4" - 40~200 in/lbs - $100] while at HF, as well as the Quinn digital TW's. But hoping the Tekton will be accurate and good enough, being that it'll be rarely used for DIY projects.

 

[DugT]

Not 1/2", but . . .
I'm starting to feel like I've fallen into torque wrench purchasing Groundhog Day. ;~\

A) I recently purchased a Craftsman 3/8-in Drive - Clicker Style MicroTork® Torque Wrench [ Model# 31423 — w/torque range capacity: 25 to 250 in. lbs. & 3.61 to 29.03 N-m, in torque increments are: 1.0 in. lbs. & .11 N-m].... without first reading any reviews on it (except a few on the Sears website, where it's currently $20 less than the amaz price), as my old USA made Craftsman torque wrenches always worked great without any reason—that I knew of—to question the calibration.

But after picking it up and reading deeper into the Sears user reviews, as well as many 'critical' reviews on amaz, regarding calibration being 'way off' out-of-the-box and/or the ratcheting heads or pawls breaking after just a few uses, etc-etc, I decided to return it rather than take the chance that mine doesn't break or have issues— since the Sears warranty is only for 1 year.

B) So after more research, both here @ GJ and online, I decided to get a pro quality CDI 30~250 in/lbs wrench, which is approx double the price of the Craftsman 'MicroTork'. But USA made and highly recommended &c.

Then I came to my senses , remembering the only reason I'm looking for an in/lbs. & N-m torque wrench....is to do some work on our John Deere GT225 - Kohler 15hp engine (of which most torque specs are in in./lbs & N-m).

C) So then thought, (quoting my mumbling)...'Heck, I've lived my whole life without ever needing an in/lbs TW before, and I may never need it again - especially if we sell the John Deere, &c; I'm just gonna go with the cheapest and hope for the best!'

D) So I get home yesterday and unwrap/unbox my new HF 20~200 1/4" torque wrench, (cost: $15.99 w/HF super coupon). Only to find that the torque scales are out of whack— between the scale on the twisting handle - and the scale on the shaft. So now I need to return it back to HF.

E) Fast Forward to Today .... Just ordered the Tekton 1/4" Drive Click Torque Wrench (20-200 in.-lb.). With lifetime warranty. Just got email it will arrive tomorrow.

. . . Anyways, I just hope I haven't misplaced any of the blower housing & heat deflector & baffle screws, and/or nuts needed to re-install the carburetor on the John Deere!

Saw the Icon TW's [1/4" - 40~200 in/lbs - $100] while at HF, as well as the Quinn digital TW's. But hoping the Tekton will be accurate and good enough, being that it'll be rarely used for DIY projects.

I think the Tekton and the HF come out of the same factory because it looks like an identical design. What I like best about the Tekton is the easy to read settings. On many torque wrenches the numbers and lines are chrome and hard to read.

On the HF wrench you said the "the torque scales are out of whack— between the scale on the twisting handle - and the scale on the shaft." That happens when you calibrate that type of torque wrench. When calibrating, they adjust it so that when the twist handle 0 or Zero is close to the line, the wrench will click at the exact setting ft lbs. You can easily adjust it so that the handle is at zero when it is perfectly on the line but then it won't click at the intended ft lbs.

It is possible that a wrench will be within spec when the 0 lines up perfectly with the line but if I got a cheapish wrench that was like that I would fear that the factory shipped it like that because it looked better, not because that was the ideal calibration.

 

[WinMod21]

I think the Tekton and the HF come out of the same factory because it looks like an identical design. What I like best about the Tekton is the easy to read settings. On many torque wrenches the numbers and lines are chrome and hard to read.

I agree !

On the HF wrench you said the "the torque scales are out of whack— between the scale on the twisting handle - and the scale on the shaft." That happens when you calibrate that type of torque wrench. When calibrating, they adjust it so that when the twist handle 0 or Zero is close to the line, the wrench will click at the exact setting ft lbs. You can easily adjust it so that the handle is at zero when it is perfectly on the line but then it won't click at the intended ft lbs.

It is possible that a wrench will be within spec when the 0 lines up perfectly with the line but if I got a cheapish wrench that was like that I would fear that the factory shipped it like that because it looked better, not because that was the ideal calibration.

Thank you very much for explaining that! I did not know that. And yes, right out-of-the-box, the HF Pittsburgh TW twisting handle '0'....was a ways down below the bottom of the scale range—of '20'—on the wrench shaft. So I had to screw the twisting handle up to '10' (on the twisting handle scale) in order for the top edge of the twisting handle....to be at the bottom of the scale range—of '20'—on the wrench shaft ! If that makes any sense?

Oh wait, after re-reading your abv ^ .... I now see that you're saying that they do that on purpose! But I think I'll still return it, as it leaves me feeling like I don't really know where I'm at, for sure, scale and torque value wise.

Even if that can be adjusted on the HF Pittsburgh TW, I don't think I'd be interested in having to do that.

 

[DugT]

I agree !

Thank you very much for explaining that! I did not know that. And yes, right out-of-the-box, the HF Pittsburgh TW twisting handle '0'....was a ways down below the bottom of the scale range—of '20'—on the wrench shaft. So I had to screw the twisting handle up to '10' (on the twisting handle scale) in order for the top edge of the twisting handle....to be at the bottom of the scale range—of '20'—on the wrench shaft ! If that makes any sense?

Therefore, you don't really know where you're at, scale and torque value wise.

But you say that can be adjusted....on the HF Pittsburgh TW? Notwithstanding I don't think I'd be interested in having to do that.

The Tekton has an especially easy way to calibrate and I think you end up with the twist handle lining up perfectly with the numbers and lines on the shaft.

Pittsburgh wrenches don't have the allen key adjustment. Instead, you adjust the calibration undoing the big nut at the base of the handle and adjusting something else. You can find a video about that. It is still easy but you don't end up with the 0 perfectly on the line.

 

[WinMod21]

The Tekton has an especially easy way to calibrate and I think you end up with the twist handle lining up perfectly with the numbers and lines on the shaft.

Pittsburgh wrenches don't have the allen key adjustment. Instead, you adjust the calibration undoing the big nut at the base of the handle and adjusting something else. You can find a video about that. It is still easy but you don't end up with the 0 perfectly on the line.

Many thanks for the link. That's good to know. Will watch it with interest.

Wow, lucky you! I sure wish I was 6000' up in the Sierra's these days, instead of stuck in this hot, sultry, humidly miserable western michigan.

 

[64merc]

I have a really cheap torque wrench (like the cheap Pittsburgh from HF), and the 5 ftlbs is really the zero. I tested it, and it is fairly accurate if you go by this scale. I was planning on selling it anyway so whatever.

 

[WinMod21]

~... Just ordered the Tekton 1/4" Drive Click Torque Wrench (20-200 in.-lb.). ~ But hoping the Tekton will be accurate and good enough, being that it'll be rarely used for DIY projects.

The Tekton has an especially easy way to calibrate and I think you end up with the twist handle lining up perfectly with the numbers and lines on the shaft.

I have a really cheap torque wrench (like the cheap Pittsburgh from HF), and the 5 ftlbs is really the zero. I tested it, and it is fairly accurate if you go by this scale. I was planning on selling it anyway so whatever.

The new Tekton 1/4" Drive Click Torque Wrench (20-200 in.-lb.) arrived yesterday. The shaft and twist handle scales line-up perfectly; very easy to read; looks & feels like decent quality; click is easy to hear and feel; has a rubber-capped allenhead adjustment screw on side of shaft--for adjusting calibration; great manual w/ in-lbs + ft-lbs + N-m conversion tables w/ exploded schematic drawing of all parts + parts list; nice hard plastic snap-shut case.

I did in/lbs vs. ft/lbs tests with the different torque wrenches (at 10 ft/lbs & 120 in/lbs, and 15 ft/lbs & 180 in/lbs), with the Tekton 1/4" [30~200 in-lb] abv^, the Craftsman 3/8" [25~250 in-lb] MicroTork -- that I'm planning on returning, and a Pittsburgh 3/8" [5~80 ft-lb] TW. After several tests, they all clicked over at the appropriate torque value.

By the way, the Craftsman 3/8" MicroTork [25~250 in-lb] is very heavy and bulky and clunky; is noticeably rougher and louder (clicking while twisting the handle) sounding and feeling when adjusting, and must weigh approx 5 times as much as the Tekton. The red lock/unlock twister is nice, but being plastic...who knows how long it would keep working. Moreover the Craftsman, made in China, only has a 'One Year Warranty'.
I took pics of the Craftsman & Tekton, if anyone's interested in seeing them.

 

[Outahere]

PI Split Beam is the only way to go. One of my favorite tools. Easily within your budget too.
View media item 60925

That rectangular handle looks like it would be painful to use at 250 ft-lb. The P.I. split beam 3/8 drive I bought last year has a comfortable tubular handle.

 

[Outahere]

I'm a home DIY guy and I recently bought an Icon 1/2" torque wrench because it seems like an excellent torque wrench for $88 if you use a 20% off coupon. Also, Icon tools have a lifetime warranty which is hard to find in a torque wrench......

I haven't seen much mention here at GJ of the $150 Icon 1/2" flex head 90T 250 ft-lb micrometer style torque wrench. I might buy one this year if a 20% coupon shows up. The only micrometer style competition I have seen to it, at the price point of $150, is the 36T version from Gearwrench.
https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in...nch-56470.html?_br_psugg_q=icon+torque+wrench

Flex head allows up to 15° of rotation for knuckle and obstruction clearance
Professional standard accuracy: +/- 4% clockwise, +/- 6% counterclockwise
90 tooth ratcheting mechanism
Heavy duty low profile teardrop head for easy access
Complies with Standard ASME B107.300-2010
Audible click and/or impulse when torque setting is reached
Roll-marked scale for better visibility
Chrome plated hardened steel body
Smooth detent locking collar prevents accidental change in torque settings
Non-slip knurled handle for optimum control
Threaded pivot pin

I saw this interesting comment at HF from a review of the Icon flex head:

..... I called a couple of torque-wrench repair/calibration companies in the U.S. to make sure they can calibrate imported torque wrenches and they said that Icon torque wrenches are manufactured in Taiwan and that parts are available and calibration is not a problem.....

 

[demarpaint]

That rectangular handle looks like it would be painful to use at 250 ft-lb. The P.I. split beam 3/8 drive I bought last year has a comfortable tubular handle.

It's a great tool. I found the handle to be very good. Having said that I typically work with gloves on, a habit I developed decades ago. I have the 3/8" drive wrench with the tubular handle, which I don't like as much.

 

[seber]

That rectangular handle looks like it would be painful to use at 250 ft-lb. The P.I. split beam 3/8 drive I bought last year has a comfortable tubular handle.

I have the same wrench in both the rectangular and tubular handle form. I haven't used the tubular since I found the rectangular style. It is in fact more comfortable than the tube.

 

[visionguru]

Not a professional just a DIY'er looking for my first 1/2 Torque Wrench for basic jobs dealing with car maintenance, brakes, tire rotation, changing struts etc. etc.

Looking for something quality that will hold up and hopefully won't need recalibration. Budget up to $250ish.

Considering the Precision Instruments Split Beam or one of the many Digital options.

I'd avoid PI split beam, bulky and low tooth count. It's probably good for abusive use in a tire shop.

1/2" torque wrenches are often more than 2-feet long. High tooth count ratchet and flex head are important features for fasteners that don't have wide open access.

Go digital! Constantly having to set to the lowest setting and needing calibration is not fun.

$250 can get really good torque wrenches. Before I upgraded to Snap On 1/2" Techangle, I sold my Snap on Tech3FR250 for $150. A gently used Snap On is always a good option.

For new, GearWrench 85196 is nice and within your budget.