good breaker bar

[sberry]

While you are waiting around to decide how to flush 200$ spend 15 on a HF or Indestro and use it.

 

[Bigblue&Goldie]

Protomakes excellent ones at good prices.

Yeah, Proto makes excellent breaker bars that are far cheaper than the other top manufacturers. I bought a 24" for like $36 from Zoro.

 

[sberry]

Nothing wrong with that. Its reasonable.

 

[theoldwizard1]

At some point Craftsmans must have changed to not as strong My VVJ still lives.

I have a 30+ yo Craftsman breaker bar. It has survived many abuses with "cheaters". Sure wish it was longer. If Craftsman made a 3/4" breaker that was at least 24" long, I would probably buy it.

If you watch eBay, you can find a Snap On SN24B for about $70. Still expensive, but top quality.

 

[GettinJunkDone]

I agree with all of those that are saying to get the HF. It's been rock solid for me, and the price couldn't have been better.

 

[platform389]

NAPA bar here has broken crankshaft bolts loose with a 5 foot cheater and SO impact socket.

 

[bfm336]

For those that use the harbor freight bars are you using the all metal or the black grip one? I like that idea about the car for lug nuts.


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[HanShotFirst]

On the cheap side, the Harbor Freight 25" is a very good breaker bar.

My all time favorite breaker bar is the SK.

 

[Gummi Bear]

I have a couple of old Craftsman, when they were still made in USA

My favorite though, is an old Proto 24" that I picked up at a swap meet years ago. I have not managed to break, or even tweak it, even with my fat *** standing on a 6' cheater pipe.


I went to the woods because I wished to live deliberately - Thoreau

 

[JettaGetUpandGo]

I have had a Craftsman 1/2" dr. breaker bar for approximately 12 years. It's the longer of the two offered. Within the last year or so the pin falls out after loosening a few bolts. It is mainly used for breaking lug bolts loose or axle bolts, sometimes with a 3-4' long jack handle used for additional leverage. I know I can bring it back to Sears for a Chinese replacement, just haven't done it yet.

I have since bought the Harbor Freight 25" breaker bar for $12 and have been pleasantly surprised with it. There is some flex in the handle, but the additional length is just enough to typically not need a cheater bar.

 

[Mechanical Noise]

I have the SK 18" and HF 25" 1/2" drive bars. The SK bar doesn't flex alot at high torque, no doubt because it's thicker and shorter. The HF bar flexes much more, almost as if it's an old school beam torque wrench, but it hasn't broken.

I'm not fond of the extra flex of the HF bar, although I'm sure the extra length can come in handy. I'm generally more comfortable using the SK bar.

I got the SK bar for only $5.00 at a flea market years ago but that was pure luck. The HF bar is very good but not great, but I think the $9.99 coupon is a great deal.

 

[davethorik]

I bought a newer Mac 24" bar off ebay. It has the triangle grip and has the knuckle on the handle. It is put together with a bolt and a lock washer. I has to buy a rebuild kit as the drive was twisted. Not bad for about $40 invested.

I also have an older Plvmb made Craftsman bar. Never used it I usually go for long ratchet instead. Use the Mac a lot though.

 

[Askme42]

On the cheap side, the Harbor Freight 25" is a very good breaker bar.

My all time favorite breaker bar is the SK.

I think I'm going to have to spring for their new breaker bar during sk days

 

[sk farmer]

It's 2015. If your ratchet wont't handle the job, buy one that will.
No need for teary eyes and $200 fanboy stuff either.

Not true. Added reach, clearance issues and the ability to rock a fastener back and forth without switching the ratchet direction are all reasons why a breaker is still very useful.

A stronger ratchet is not the answer to every problem.

 

[nes999]

I own Harbor freight, SK, and Snap on breaker bars. The harbor freight flexes the most but if your short on cash it isn't a bad option.
The snap on doesn't flex as much. My SK is shorter and thicker than the snap on one. So it isn't a fair to compare the flex between the two. That being said The SK bar is my go-to most of the time.



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[jd_1138]

I keep the $10 HF breaker bars (25") in the trunks of all my cars -- great for changing tires. If I need one in the shop, I just grab one from the trunk.

 

[sberry]

What makes the HF one so good is the pot odds/ It is so pitifully cheap there is almost no risk or downside even if a guy was to score something better. It would be different to have to upgrade from one cost 150 but when its 15 you aint out much and to tell the truth it has worked way better than we thought it would. Its become part of the tools and havnt needed to buy anything to replace it.
I got a half a dozen others, its become my go to.

 

[Wakefield]

I have had a Craftsman 1/2" dr. breaker bar for approximately 12 years. It's the longer of the two offered. Within the last year or so the pin falls out after loosening a few bolts. It is mainly used for breaking lug bolts loose or axle bolts, sometimes with a 3-4' long jack handle used for additional leverage. I know I can bring it back to Sears for a Chinese replacement, just haven't done it yet.

I have since bought the Harbor Freight 25" breaker bar for $12 and have been pleasantly surprised with it. There is some flex in the handle, but the additional length is just enough to typically not need a cheater bar.

I think Sears used to have replacement pin and drive/head for those things.(I think an Armstrong had the same) If my pin fell out I would be tempted to experiment with bolt size 5/16" or a near metric size to see if it would substitute-(would be clumsy of course with it sticking out on both sides

 

[Wakefield]

Did anyone with a HF find out if the xs flex was because of the bolt not being tight enough?

 

[four.cycle]

maybe this is a stupid question, but have you checked Ebay?

 

[rune-hammer]

Thanks guys, the HF one seems like a great deal, but since I'm from europe it is sadly not an option. Has the same external knuckle as the toptul ones but the toptul is twice as expensive, oh well, everything is more expensive here so I guess that that's just the way it is.

I usually buy everything i need used at flea markets or online because I like it and I'm cheap, but breaker bars are not that common around here.

 

[firworks]

I'm real excited for my new breaker bar. As part of SK Day I got the 30" XXL 1/2" SK breaker bar. I have the HF 1/2" as well, but it was flexing badly last time I was tightening an axle nut. I hope the SK is nice! That's not to say the 1/2" HF is bad, but I think I was beyond it's limits last time.

 

[NewShockerGuy]

I have two Craftsman and two SnapOns. I use the snapon WAY more because they are round.... the stupid craftsman have almost a square shaft and it makes it almost impossible to put a round pipe over them or at least one that isn't 2x the size of the shaft... not sure what jackass thought it would be a good idea, but I prefer snap on in this case hands down.

The last thing I want to think of when I am putting all my weight on a breaker bar is for it to snap. Not dissing the cheaper brands but something like this I'd prefer not to bend or snap right next to my face..hahah

-Nigel

 

[Wakefield]

I'm real excited for my new breaker bar. As part of SK Day I got the 30" XXL 1/2" SK breaker bar. I have the HF 1/2" as well, but it was flexing badly last time I was tightening an axle nut. I hope the SK is nice! That's not to say the 1/2" HF is bad, but I think I was beyond it's limits last time.

Epstein's actually had or has a short S*K bar in 1/2" drive,it was only about 10 inches long but comes in handy working in tight places like on the other side of a nut/bolt from a ratchet,it looks indestructible with being so short

 

[Ponchoguy]

I have two Craftsman and two SnapOns. I use the snapon WAY more because they are round.... the stupid craftsman have almost a square shaft and it makes it almost impossible to put a round pipe over them or at least one that isn't 2x the size of the shaft... not sure what jackass thought it would be a good idea, but I prefer snap on in this case hands down.

The last thing I want to think of when I am putting all my weight on a breaker bar is for it to snap. Not dissing the cheaper brands but something like this I'd prefer not to bend or snap right next to my face..hahah

-Nigel

I've used the CM ones for years, no problem. If you have to use a "helper" bar, a smaller jack hanle worked for me..

 

[cliftonbros89]

Snap On all the way for me! Have several 1/2" bars that I use all the time. Also have a 3/4" and a 3/8". Very satisfied with both.

I've gone through several CM 1/2". Not just the pin or the drive piece that has busted but the ears for the pin as well. I wasn't using any cheater pipes either. I actually turned one into a cheater bar to use on wrenches.

Other than that I have a Matco 3/8" that's been very good. I also order the SK 3/8" and 3/4" for HJE SK Day! I have no doubts about them.

My dad also has a 1/2" rubber grip Wright breaker bar that's always been good.

 

[ttpete]

I prefer a sliding T-handle if I need to use a cheater. It's much stronger than a breaker bar. I have an older C-man 3/4", and I just use a reducer for 1/2" drive if needed.

 

[chris142]

I have a PLVMb one from the ww2 or slightly newer era. Bought at a yard sale 25 yrs ago.

 

[chipper]

Just an fyi the 25" breaker from hf is now cushion grip like their new ratchets...i haven't used them but seems like a nice idea