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Good guided tap wrench?

FishingMan

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Feb 18, 2015
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272
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PA
I need a good guided tap wrench for chucking into my mill or drill press for manual guided tapping. Preferably something usa-made and we'll go up to 1/2 inch.
 
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darkzero

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Oct 20, 2011
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Location
SoCal
I do the same, chuck up a tap to start the threads then finish with a tap handle.

Or I use a spring loaded tap guide mounted in the chuck or spindle directly on the tap or the back of a tap handle.

Can't go wrong with Starrett tap handles, still made in the USA. My tap guide is Brown & Sharpe. Beware there are import clones of these. I had one & it was very sloppy compared to the B&S.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005317ZMC/?tag=atomicindus08-20
 
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larry_g

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Apr 28, 2007
Messages
16,874
Location
oregon
Search ' Pilot Spindle Tap Wrench ' and see what you get. I have one that is old and no longer available that I use a lot. Way better than a spring loaded centerpoint stuck in the tap handle.

lg
no neat sig line
 

matt_i

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Mar 14, 2008
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SE Michigan
For some years I have also chucked the tap directly. With a spiral point tap,and up to about 1/2-13 I can generally expect to go thru 1018 and 6061 just by grabbing the OD of the chuck and driving it by hand. I put the mill head in "neutral" for this step. Above that I will go until it won't go any further and then use a tap wrench after that.

Chucking the tap gets it as square and aligned to the workpiece as the pilot hole that was just drilled, assuming one started the hole with something rigid like a carbide spot drill, and didn't let a skinny drill bit wander around on a rough or inclined surface.

I have a tap guide somewhere. Starting on the lathe takes more feel as one has to spin the chuck by hand while trying to maintain a neutral feed with the tailstock ram. It takes a little practice to get it correct, done by "feel".
 
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slowtwitch73

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Apr 18, 2019
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Hellgate
I just bought one off Ebay, cnc'd in USA with hardened nose 12 bucks delivered. Guy doesn't haven't any up now but if you search for "spring loaded tap guide usa" he will post more when he does another batch.
 

dr_clyde

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Jan 7, 2009
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6,434
Location
Holland, MI
I just power tap everything up to about 5/8". Use a Jacobs Superchuck, they grip 10x better than the plain bearing chucks.

If you're not confident in your tapping, you can still chuck the tap in the machine, just put rods in the chuck key holes on the chuck to act as wrench handles.

A spring loaded center held in the chuck also work if you want to use a tap handle.

I have mostly older tap wrenches. Starrett, Card, Greenfield, CTD, and a few others.
 
OP
F

FishingMan

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Feb 18, 2015
Messages
272
Location
PA
I now have a half a usa made guided tap wrench. Other half is a ratcheting harbor freight tap wrench.
 

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larry_g

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Apr 28, 2007
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oregon
It looks like power tapping has already been suggested, but here is a link to my video showing how it's done.

Power Tapping in the Mill

Tom

One of the issues I have with this vid is that he skips the step of champhering the drilled hole before tapping. Champhering after tapping can lead to peeled threads at the top of the hole. Champhering before threading helps to guide the tap. Either way the champher is necessary.

lg
no neat sig line
 

bullnerd

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Sep 17, 2012
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5,690
Location
Jersey
One of the issues I have with this vid is that he skips the step of champhering the drilled hole before tapping. Champhering after tapping can lead to peeled threads at the top of the hole. Champhering before threading helps to guide the tap. Either way the champher is necessary.

lg
no neat sig line

I have a thing with chamfering holes too, but the real reason for it, I was taught, Is for when you torque the fastener, it can (does) raise the material around the hole, which can cause it to distort into the matting part, if there is one.
 

larry_g

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Apr 28, 2007
Messages
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Location
oregon
I have a thing with chamfering holes too, but the real reason for it, I was taught, Is for when you torque the fastener, it can (does) raise the material around the hole, which can cause it to distort into the matting part, if there is one.

I agree 100%. If the hole is not champhered the material around the top of the hole can crater up.

lg
no neat sig line
 

TLGriff

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 20, 2011
Messages
62
Location
Detroit
One of the issues I have with this vid is that he skips the step of champhering the drilled hole before tapping. Champhering after tapping can lead to peeled threads at the top of the hole. Champhering before threading helps to guide the tap. Either way the champher is necessary.

lg
no neat sig line

I do all my chamfering after tapping with a cordless drill to save time. I'll pre-chamfer if I'm hand tapping to help start the tap, but when power tapping with a spiral point tap I've never found it to be necessary.

Tom
 
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TLGriff

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Joined
Oct 20, 2011
Messages
62
Location
Detroit
Tom......Love your videos. I gotta ask why did you stop ?

Thanks.

I got involved in a startup company a while back and there just wasn't time to keep them up. Now the company is sold and I'm retired, so as soon as I get used to the new lifestyle and catch up on all the unfinished projects, I plan on starting up the videos again.

Tom
 

Shadowdog500

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Joined
Dec 7, 2009
Messages
9,843
Location
Down the shore
I have several spring loaded tap followers but actually prefer this one. Here is mine in use at 2:05 and 8:12 in this video.

LFA/Reichel Hardware 51412 1/4-1/2-Inch All Steel Machinist Tap Wrench with Guide and Sliding Handle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006VA7AJC/?tag=atomicindus08-20

31VeISxRm-L._AC_SX355_.jpg
 
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