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good marking pen/pencil for metal

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BTL-A4

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Santa Clarita
Where can I find a decent pencil or even pen that won't dry out, that's very thin and can be easily erased that I can use to write on metal? I thought there was one that advertised that it won't dry out.

I thought it might be this one: https://www.arromark.com/products/pm-92
but it looks like the tip is too thick.

I've tried:
-Sharpies: they dry out too fast, but the ultra fine line ones have a decent tip size
-regular black lead pencils, which don't show up on metal very well or get dull quickly
-white pencils: too soft and get dull quickly, don't always make a good mark
-scribers & Dykem, which leave a mark and are not convenient for making a quick mark on a piece of metal I'm going to cut on a chop saw
-China markers, grease pencils and crayons are too thick
 
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Rabid Badger

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Your list of requirements excludes pretty much everything.

Maybe you should explain what exactly you're trying to do. It will make recommendations a bit easier.
 
D

Dave455

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Sussex, England
Try the Stabilo ‘All’ Marking Pencil.

Be careful which one you get, there’s quite a range.

Some are similar to (but better than) a regular Chinagraph / grease pencil, but as you found, probably too thick.

The ones you want are the ‘graphite’ version. They look like a regular pencil, and can be sharpened to a point, but really do write on anything. I use them for most of my metal marking now!

Have a look at the Pica range too - they make some unique pens and pencils that are designed for specific tasks. The Pica pencil might be another option for you. There are many ‘leads’ available, depending on what you want.

The Pica Marker is my next choice for metal marking. Both shown below.

Failing all that, get an extra fine, permanent, OHP pen. Get the permanent ones. You can erase with a trace of spirit!
 

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Showkey

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These work great ...........

https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/Power-Utility/48-22-3100

48-22-3100_1.jpg
 
T

tym

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Another vote for the Pica pencils and markers. Learned about them last year from an Adam Savage video and they work great.
 
N

neophyte

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I got lazy and just purchased Fisher Space Pen refills in the Silver color.
The Silver ink sort of looks like a pencil mark, and because it’s not black, you can somewhat see it on dark steel sheet metal surfaces as well as dark wood.
You sometimes need the light to be coming from the right angle though.
The major advantage to the Soace Pens is they’ll write on most surfaces.
I think there might have been issues writing on baking parchment although I’m not sure.

Otherwise,
**** Blick had multi surface pencils, that can write on materials like glass.
They were available in a half dozen colors.
I think it might have been these ones.
You can sharpen them with a regular pencil sharpener.
I’m not sure how well they work on metal.
https://www.dickblick.com/products/stabilo-all-colored-marking-pencils/

Otherwise, as a couple members mentioned, soapstone is traditionally used, and is available in several or more different shapes, including round pencil shaped forms.
 
S

strength_and_power

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BTL-A4 said:
Thanks! This looks promising!
Click to expand...



It is my go to for marking steel. It is more permanent than soapstone but does come off.
The round soapstone can be sharpened on a grinder or belt sander to a fine point but they wear down pretty quick plus they break with even a small drop. If I’m using soapstone, I will sharpen both ends and do 4-6 pieces at a time so I’m not constantly stopping to sharpen.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
M

matt_i

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SE Michigan
Can I mention the carbide scriber?

If you want to "erase" then re use the layout blue on your part.

I keep #2 pencils and some random silver pencils, one or the other will work on most materials.
 
S

Stooge

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South Shore, MA
I usually go the dykem and scribe method most of the time, but I also keep these German Staedtler Omnichrom pencils ,(ive only used the white ones) around, though I bought them for painting, they work well on everything I've tried them on at my shop. I buy them from a paint brush vendor, but are available on amazon, etc. I've also been meaning to try the Milwaukee inkzall markers, but always seem to forget when im at home depot.

https://www.staedtler.com/intl/en/p...-omnichrom-108-water-soluble-dry-marker-m108/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000WH10WI/?tag=atomicindus08-20
 
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carmantl

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You can get 1/8" thick flat soapstone and holders at your LWS or off Amazon. I've been using them for years. They are easy to break but the little metal holders do a pretty good job of protecting them.
 
J

Joebass

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May 16, 2019
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Ny
A soapstone should be fine for fab. I buy them by the large box. I do my layout with a starrett combo square. If I need better, I use a scribe, that's usually in the machine shop. Soapstone gets used on the shear, and brake for things that are too long for a back gage.
 
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B

BTL-A4

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I want something that makes a really fine line on dirty/oily metal, wood, etc that doesn't dry out and is a reasonable price.
Dykem is too much trouble when all I want is an "accurate enough" cut on a piece of metal. And the scribe leaves a mark.
The paint markers are too thick, Sharpies dry out too fast or don't work well if they get the least bit of dirt or oil on them and regular lead pencils don't show up well on metal.
I've used a white lead art pencil (they have softer lead) for a few items, and that works ok, but not on light-colored metal. The same pencil in black seems to work ok, but not on anything other than a really clean surface.

There have been some good suggestions here and I'm going to try a few of them. Thanks for all the tips!

I bought a Milwaukee Inkzall and it works pretty good, except it gets ink on my tri-square. It comes off with acetone, though. The line can be a little thick for precision work if I press too hard, but good enough for a metal chop saw or wood saw cut on most of what I do. The tip is really fine, so I can use that if I want a little tighter accuracy. Not sure if it stays wet with the cap open; I've been good about putting the cap back on. Probably a habit from using Sharpies, which dry out very fast if they are left open.

The Pica pencils and the Markall mechanical pencils are pricey: about $30-$40 with refills.

The Dixon pencil is available at my local Lowes, so I may pick one up. They are similar to the Pica and Markal. They are about $10 for the mechanical pencil and some refills and about $4 for the pen, which is not in stock, but they can get it. I'm still concerned about the pen drying out, though.

Unless the lead is something special, I may try a mechanical pencil with softer and/or colored lead in it.

I know I saw an ad or a post somewhere about a marker that can be left open for days and not dry out, but I can't seem to find it. Anyone know what I'm talking about?
 
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InjectorService

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Canada
It sounds to me like your best suited to have a few or maybe all of the suggestions in this thread. Your asking a lot from a marker.
 
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B

BTL-A4

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InjectorService said:
It sounds to me like your best suited to have a few or maybe all of the suggestions in this thread. Your asking a lot from a marker.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I'm gonna try 'em all. I think what I use will depend on what I'm marking. I've been making do with pencils and Sharpies and I'm not happy, so that's why I asked. Life is too short to make do with something that just doesn't work as well as I need.
 
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macgee

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Sepulveda Pass, CA
I recommend checking out Markal Pro Line thin tip.

Good flow, works well on greasy metal. Even writes well on plastic baggies, way better than a sharpie and easily removed with rubbing alcohol.

Not the ultimate thin pencil line but good, similar to a medium sharpie tip width and has good pigment depth; they last a while and been using it a lot lately marking up metal while working on the mill and lathe. I really like them. Orange and blue have best flow. $3-$4ea on Zoro. Good for add on purchases when using coupon codes.

https://www.zoro.com/markal-industrial-paint-marker-fine-tip-blue-96875/i/G0158724/

For thicker lines, I really like their HP Pro-Line. Been trying out other brands but I keep going back to the Markal's.
 
H

HenryAZ

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Silverstreak here. You can sharpen the "leads" to a sharp point. I just twirl them lightly on a 1" belt sander. You can break them easily, then have 2 or 3 leads in the holder, all sharpened both ends.
 
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Jland

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Colorado
I've tried a lot of stuff over the years, from the carbide scribe and scratch awl, soapstone to grease pencils and sharpies.. i picked up a couple of the silver pencils at the metal supply house... they are not as hard as a standard pencil lead but sharpen nicely, mark just about everything and are fairly inexpensive. But like everything else its user preference
 

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jmcf1949

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Southeastern Michigan
BTL-A4 said:
How brittle is soapstone? I need a sharp line, not a wide mark. These pencils look like they could work, but I'd need to be able to sharpen them to a point in a pencil sharpener, or at least with a knife or maybe sand them to a point:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016C8XPBY/?tag=atomicindus08-20
Click to expand...
The Silver Streak pencil by Laco mentioned above has a sharpener built into the cap. Just pull off the cap, flip it over, insert the lead into the hole, and twist. Couldn't be simpler.
 
B

bdbecker

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InjectorService said:
It sounds to me like your best suited to have a few or maybe all of the suggestions in this thread. Your asking a lot from a marker.
Click to expand...

BTL-A4 said:
Yeah, I'm gonna try 'em all. I think what I use will depend on what I'm marking...
Click to expand...

I think you're on the right track with that statement - choose the right tool for the job at hand. I've got a half dozen or more ways to mark things in the top drawer of my tool box. Soap stones, silver pencils, Sharpies of various colors, scribes... they all get used. I'm glad you asked the question though, I'm going to pick up a few of the suggested items to add to the arsenal.
 
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Steve_P

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I discovered the Silver Streak here a few years ago and I was sold on the first use. Easier to use than a scribe, more precise than soapstone.... and inexpensive.
 
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Mr.Smoke

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Ontario, Canada
For markings I may need to remove/alter I prefer soapstone, especially if I will be marking a cut to be made with plasma or torches. For markings that don't need to be altered or if I'm cutting with a zip disc I use a regular black sharpie or a sharpie paint pen, both of which can be removed using brake clean.
 
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