Good motorcycle chain breaker riveter combo

[kb1982]

Does anyone know of a durable chain breaker/riveter combos. Looking for one to use on 520 525 and 530 chains. I have a motion pro that has failed to live up to it's claims. I'm looking for one that can break a chain without using a grinder on the masterlink. I can get more parts to repair the one I have, but would rather just get one that can live up to the stress. Post up ones you have had luck with.

Sent from my Z962BL using Tapatalk

 

[nafterclifen]

I have a kit from RK/Excel like this one..
https://www.pit-bull.com/rk-chain-cutter-and-press-fit-rivet-tool-rk0001-000

Just checked their website and it looks like they updated it a bit...
http://rkexcelamerica.com/chain-tool.html

Never had an issue with it.

 

[Coopduc]

I like the motion pro jumbo tool. Not cheap, but works great.

https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0135#.WYfHwatQrIU.mailto

I've tried cheaper ones, with poor results.

 

[ricleh]

Ktc mccu14

 

[CJM8515]

I have this from motion pro https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0001 I dont ever rivet chains, only use master links. This little guy will easily press out the link pins.

Friend has this one and likes it alot too https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0058

 

[kb1982]

I have this from motion pro https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0001 I dont ever rivet chains, only use master links. This little guy will easily press out the link pins.

Friend has this one and likes it alot too https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0058

I have the second one you linked already.


Sent from my Z962BL using Tapatalk

 

[Aimsmall]

I have the RK and it's a good quality tool that I've owned for many years and has held up pretty well considering how often it is used. I will say this though, if you are using the "breaker" feature of these types of tools they will wear and become damaged much more quickly, YMMV but that's been my experience. I much prefer the grinder and chisel method anyway.

 

[gungatim]

I have the 08-0058 motion pro as well (in the blue case). Really like it and works like a charm. I use rivet chains on several of my bikes and it has held up perfectly.

 

[kb1982]

Figured I would update this thread. In the end, I decided to try out the D.I.D KM500R cutter, press, and riveter. I've only used it once so far, but I'm impressed with the robust design. I Also like the fact that it is compact, and an all in one design.

Sent from my Z962BL using Tapatalk

 

[Here2Learn]

SWEET! Thanks for the report. I have the RK, but run DID chains, so naturally want the DID instead.

 

[DFB]

I have one like this for decades

Is stamped USA wonder if they still are? :

 

[ptgarcia]

I have this Motion Pro set: https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0058. I have noticed if you don't grind off the rivet before pressing out the link pin it will break the tip off the press pin. Otherwise, it works great for both pressing plates and riveting and pressing plates for a master link.

For a better price check out the Rocky Mountain ATV/MC house brand, Tusk: https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/search/go?w=chain&af=department:drivetools

 

[driftpin]

Not sure what is the issue with having to grind a rivet head off? That must take all-of about 60 seconds. I can understand it from the viewpoint of, "one less thing to do," but is it really that-much of a chore? It probably takes more time to decide where the best place to grind it off is (I recommend placing the link you want to grind on the rear sprocket, that will hold it immobile).

I have a few different chain presses I've acquired over nearly 50 years of motorcycle ownership and work. I have one like DFB pictured, that's probably the oldest. I got one from Cycle Gear not long-ago, I had a sale coupon. The Cycle Gear reviews mention 'grind-off the head' frequently.
https://www.cyclegear.com/_a/product_images/0179/3414/stockton_chain_breaker_and_rivet_tool_kit.jpg

https://www.cyclegear.com/accessories/stockton-chain-breaker-and-rivet-tool-kit

 

[kb1982]

Not sure what is the issue with having to grind a rivet head off? That must take all-of about 60 seconds. I can understand it from the viewpoint of, "one less thing to do," but is it really that-much of a chore? It probably takes more time to decide where the best place to grind it off is (I recommend placing the link you want to grind on the rear sprocket, that will hold it immobile).

I know this is the garage journal and all, but not everyone that has a motorcycle has a garage. I personally live in an apartment, but keep all of my tools at my cousins garage. I have a key and use of it anytime, but some friends of mine arent so lucky. If Im helping a friend out that also lives in an apartment, my air die grinder isnt gonna do much good. That's when a quality chain tool comes in handy. My Motion Pro chain tool broke while flaring the rivet. The center section of the backing anvil punched out, instead of flaring the rivet, it was pushed back out on the opposite side.

Sent from my Z962BL using Tapatalk

 

[bwringer]

I'm looking for one that can break a chain without using a grinder on the masterlink.

Ain't no such thing.

On a modern x-ring riveted chain, you simply can't expect a steel pin to overcome the rivet without running a large chance of breaking the pin. A chain pin is damn near the toughest, hardest hunk of steel modern science can create, and you simply can't expect a slightly smaller pin to reliably overcome the expanded part of the pin. Grind it.

Or, just cut a link with a cutting wheel. I haven't farted around with a chain breaker to break a chain in aeons; just a waste of time. The link is not reusable either way, so why does it matter whether you manage to shove the pin out or slice it in half?


I have a Motion Pro tool for flaring/riveting master links, and it works fine. There are many others; it's not a complicated tool. I have another handy little tool that helps press stubborn side plates on.

 

[emeraldcoupe]

I have one like this for decades

Is stamped USA wonder if they still are? :

I have one just like that, it works great.

 

[TheLurker]

Figured I would update this thread. In the end, I decided to try out the D.I.D KM500R cutter, press, and riveter. I've only used it once so far, but I'm impressed with the robust design. I Also like the fact that it is compact, and an all in one design.

Sent from my Z962BL using Tapatalk

Have a similar one I keep in a small tool box and the Motion Pro jumbo tool in my full tool box.

You'll probably eventually break the pin if you're not grinding like I did. Keep spares or do like I do now. A Dremel will grind a pin just as good as anything else. Small and can keep anywhere.

 

[Snakebyt]

I will need to invest in one soon, have to do chains on both my bikes withing the next few months, used a friends HF one last time i changed chain and sprockets

 

[Snakebyt]

any opinions on this one?

http://www.sears.com/xtremepowerus-...gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CImolrGxndsCFUbfwAod2oMOeQ

looks identical to the one sold at cycle gear
https://www.cyclegear.com/accessories/stockton-chain-breaker-and-rivet-tool-kit


and even cheaper at walmart online.. im sure they are the same damn thing
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Auto-Cha...4406&wl11=online&wl12=155906268&wl13=&veh=sem

 

[driftpin]

I also have a chain vise to pull the chain together easily so you can slip the link on and then expand the pin head.

Not this Pinhead!

 

[Bagherra]

I've used the tool from Cycle Gear for years and have never had a problem. But like what was said above, you have to grind the head or you will bend the pin..

As far as the chain vise...I always place the ends on the sprocket and the master link slips in no issue.

 

[bwringer]

Yep, any of those kits will work for riveting the new master link.

Add a chain press so you can easily press those stubborn side plates on (needed for clip and rivet master links). It's, only about $7, and saves a lot of time.
https://www.cyclegear.com/accessories/stockton-mini-chain-link-press-tool

As I said, there's absolutely no reason to waste time using a chain breaker tool to replace a modern o-ring/x-ring chain, and there's a very high risk of breaking the pin in the tool if you try.

Chain breakers are intended for roller (plain non-o-ring) chain, as found in industrial and farm machinery. You usually buy chain for these in bulk rolls.

Motorcycles started using o-ring chains sometime in the 1970s.

 

[ttpete]

I use the Motion Pro PBR tool. It does all of the operations by changing pieces.

https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0470

I always grind off the pin ends when breaking chain no matter what type it is. It's easier on the tool.

 

[Bagherra]

As I said, there's absolutely no reason to waste time using a chain breaker tool to replace a modern o-ring/x-ring chain, and there's a very high risk of breaking the pin in the tool if you try.

Chain breakers are intended for roller (plain non-o-ring) chain, as found in industrial and farm machinery. You usually buy chain for these in bulk rolls.

Motorcycles started using o-ring chains sometime in the 1970s.

So you're saying that o-ring/x-ring chains never need to be replaced??

 

[JBradley500]

When I replace my x-ring I just use a grinder, punch, and a master link.

 

[CJM8515]

Ive probably replaced my atv and dirtbikes chains every year for 10 years now. Never ever broke my motion pro tool and its the type that presses out the pins. I use a chain press to squish the new link on and then use a clip style link. Id say they see WAY more abuse than a motorcycle ever will and none ever failed yet

 

[bwringer]

So you're saying that o-ring/x-ring chains never need to be replaced??

Nope, I'm saying if you have an o/x-ring chain with a riveted master link, just cut the chain anywhere with a cutting wheel on an angle grinder when it's time to replace the chain and sprockets. Takes maybe ten seconds, no farting around with grinding or pressing pins.

If you're re-using the chain for some reason, like if it's a gearing change where you need to remove a few links, then yeah, you'll want to grind the head of the pin you're removing and press it out, then reinstall with a new master link.

FWIW, most chains for larger streetbikes must be riveted; you can't even buy a clip master link for many chains.

Also, just because you rarely see this mentioned: the last step of installing a clip master link is to carefully pry the outer plate back out a bit with a small screwdriver so it's tight against the clip (obviously be careful of the o-rings). This will ensure that the clip stays in place.

Everyone knows what direction to install the clips, but not one rider in a hundred seems to know about making sure the plate is tight after installation. I've seen lots of chains missing clips, but I've never lost one...

 

[ttpete]

Nope, I'm saying if you have an o/x-ring chain with a riveted master link, just cut the chain anywhere with a cutting wheel on an angle grinder when it's time to replace the chain and sprockets. Takes maybe ten seconds, no farting around with grinding or pressing pins.

If you're re-using the chain for some reason, like if it's a gearing change where you need to remove a few links, then yeah, you'll want to grind the head of the pin you're removing and press it out, then reinstall with a new master link.

FWIW, most chains for larger streetbikes must be riveted; you can't even buy a clip master link for many chains.

Also, just because you rarely see this mentioned: the last step of installing a clip master link is to carefully pry the outer plate back out a bit with a small screwdriver so it's tight against the clip (obviously be careful of the o-rings). This will ensure that the clip stays in place.

Everyone knows what direction to install the clips, but not one rider in a hundred seems to know about making sure the plate is tight after installation. I've seen lots of chains missing clips, but I've never lost one...

You are the first guy who I have come across who has mentioned the trick of pulling the side plate back against the clip. I've always done it that way and have never lost a clip and I've done a lot of chains in my lifetime. I use my old Renold chain tool to do the job.

Here's a tip: Get a pair of these master link pliers. They make it easy to install the clip without damaging it.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/HOZAN-P-221-Chain-Pliers-/182471626609

 

[ttpete]

I safety wire the clip, I'm leery of using clip style ML on o- or x-ring chain as I feel the combined thickness of the rings apply some pressure to back of plate, taking slop out plate/clip fit. If the ring deteriorates which is entirely possible with cleaning, wear, grit, etc., it would promote movement, possibly causing the clip to pop off. I presently have 25K on the DID 525 chain on my DR650, never seem to have to adjust, lube it every 400-500 miles.

The side plate is a pretty good press fit on the pins of an O-ring chain, at least on the ones I've installed. I've seen bikes come in missing a clip without having the side plate come off. If you see the posts above, the best way is to pull the side plate back against the clip hard. It will stay there.

 

[Bagherra]

Nope, I'm saying if you have an o/x-ring chain with a riveted master link, just cut the chain anywhere with a cutting wheel on an angle grinder when it's time to replace the chain and sprockets. Takes maybe ten seconds, no farting around with grinding or pressing pins.

If you're re-using the chain for some reason, like if it's a gearing change where you need to remove a few links, then yeah, you'll want to grind the head of the pin you're removing and press it out, then reinstall with a new master link.

FWIW, most chains for larger streetbikes must be riveted; you can't even buy a clip master link for many chains.

Also, just because you rarely see this mentioned: the last step of installing a clip master link is to carefully pry the outer plate back out a bit with a small screwdriver so it's tight against the clip (obviously be careful of the o-rings). This will ensure that the clip stays in place.

Everyone knows what direction to install the clips, but not one rider in a hundred seems to know about making sure the plate is tight after installation. I've seen lots of chains missing clips, but I've never lost one...

Ohhhhh ok....I see what you mean now....

Yeah...when I replace mine, I just cut it anywhere...

As far as those clip style master links...wouldn't trust 'em at all....

 

[patrickwise]

You can consider the Jeremywell chain tools kit. I wanted to try them at the job, so I took out a 60 chain and tried breaking the chain. This tool did the job with no issues.

 

[Bulldog13]

What the price of that D&D compact ?

 

[JradM]

I checked all the links to the Motion Pro options and was surprised to find none of them linked to the version I use. So here it is!

Motion Pro PBR Chain Breaker

Good grief - I had no idea Motion Pro made so many different chain breakers!

It's not like I bought Motion Pro's whole catalogue, tried them all, and then decided this was the best. My endorsement is just because I broke a few cheap chain breakers prior to buying this one. This one I've had for a few years and it still works very well. Does a nice job riveting too.

If I were buying another breaker today, I would definitely look at the options from Tusk.

Tusk Heavy Duty Chain Breaker $16.99
Tusk Chain Riveting Tool (HD version $39.99)

I haven't used either tool, but I've had very good luck with Tusk products generally. These would save you a few bucks over the Motion Pro stuff.

 

[ttpete]

I checked all the links to the Motion Pro options and was surprised to find none of them linked to the version I use. So here it is!

Motion Pro PBR Chain Breaker

Good grief - I had no idea Motion Pro made so many different chain breakers!

It's not like I bought Motion Pro's whole catalogue, tried them all, and then decided this was the best. My endorsement is just because I broke a few cheap chain breakers prior to buying this one. This one I've had for a few years and it still works very well. Does a nice job riveting too.

If I were buying another breaker today, I would definitely look at the options from Tusk.

Tusk Heavy Duty Chain Breaker $16.99
Tusk Chain Riveting Tool (HD version $39.99)

I haven't used either tool, but I've had very good luck with Tusk products generally. These would save you a few bucks over the Motion Pro stuff.

I have the PBR. It works well, but the handle needs to be longer. I don't use the breaker function because on an o-ring chain, I just grind the ends of the pins off, and it comes apart fairly easily.