Good Parts Washer

[red vette mike]

I need to purshase a good parts washer. Could you folks give me some advise on a good washer? I see a number of them in the TP Tools Catalog and also some in the Northern Equipment catalog. Thanks for any thoughts.

 

[AndrewM]

Well, I'll start. I have a Clarke parts washer from Tractor Supply, which is your basic made in China 20 gallon unit, exactly (down to the same color) as the Northern Tools 20 gallon parts washer. Uses a fish tank / watergarden motor for a pump (well, it's similar to the pump that's in my son's fish tank, that's why I say that - magnetically driven, no exposed motor parts). It's "OK". It does the job. It doesn't leak.

Fluid's more expensive than I figured. Guess I never looked. 5 gallon jug of parts washer fluid is ~$33 each. The one I have is a 12 gallon fluid working capacity, but I only put 10 in it and it works fine. Supposedly you can "top off" with water, and the water will sink to the bottom (petroleum based washer fluid will float).

The lid on mine is a bit warped, so it doesn't "seal" real well by itself. A quick-clamp (the squeeze style used for holding 2 pieces of wood together, etc) fixed that easily.

But what can I say... I needed a washer *now* to put my motor together, and it fit the bill. May not be the best thing for a pro, but it does the job.

If you go with petroleum based solvents, be sure to get some nitrile gloves. I have a box right next to the washer. That stuff is kinda nasty.

And standard fire and ventilation precautions apply. I unplug mine after each use.

 

[neblinc]

Someone posted a link to this website the other day that looks intersesting.

Automotive Service

Randy

 

[red vette mike]

Randy: That is a good site. I think I would feel better paying a bit more for a US made washer. Some of their models are not too pricey. I don't need the high end version.
Thanks, Mike

 

[srosa707]

I was thinkin of gettin this one. Anyone have this one?

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=41108

 

[kartracer55]

Anything but the northern tool branded ones

 

[iiibdsiil]

You might want to check the local paper for shops going out of business and the like. My dad picked up (and then gave to me) a nice Snap-on one, for $100. Works like a champ. Can't find a pic of it right now.

 

[dodge78]

I built my own using a bathtub, a pump, a little plumbing and some racking from Kmart a neighbor brought over.

 

[Elroy]

Now you did say you wanted a good parts washer. Is that right? In this day and age of import ****, look to the old lines:

http://www.graymills.com/SourceParts/Index.html

These people make their living building parts washers! So what do you want a $150 piece of **** or a real MACHINE.

 

[gmasterman]

I've used a 20 gallon washer from HF for about 8 years now without a single problem. What's supposed to be wrong with HF washers?

 

[mikeyr]

I think it is just the "normal" HF quality that everyone is afraid of, why risk it when a quality unit in this case is not much more.

Having said that, I am looking for a parts cleaner myself, but what is the best solvent to put in ? Agitene ? some kind of Calif. illegal stuff ? water (aqueous) stuff ? Graymills sells aquatene which needs to be heated.

I need one pretty bad to replace my SafetyKleen unit and solvent, SafetyKleen can no longer give me or replace my solvent without me getting a Hazardous Waste License (thank you California), so I have to figure out what next.

 

[srosa707]

what are the prices on the gray mills setups? Just a small freestanding one?

 

[mikeyr]

$600 to $1,000 seems to be about the range. Grainger has the prices online for Graymills stuff. I am waiting for a Safety-Kleen quote any minute now but it will be about $600, the unit is $475 + solvent, they will want me to apply for a Hazardous waste license but it looks to be not that hard to do. I am considering going to the $1,500 Graymills Aqueous unit because then its easy cleanup but I wonder about the costs of keeping those 36 gallons of stuff hot at 120F 24 hours a day when I only work in the shop a few hours in the evening 3 or 4 days a week.

I am not so much worried about the parts washer as much as the solvent that goes into it, I need to get my parts clean. I also did not mean to hijaack this thread, it just seems that parts washers and the solvent go hand in hand.

 

[Mrgrunzy]

I need to purshase a good parts washer. Could you folks give me some advise on a good washer? I see a number of them in the TP Tools Catalog and also some in the Northern Equipment catalog. Thanks for any thoughts.

I have a dozen pictures and print if you are still looking.
Kenmac Pass Through Belt Washer


Dimensions of washer (WxDxH) : 142" x 345" x 110"
Weight: 20,000 lbs.
Operation Height: 36" load / unload
Conveyor Width: 30"
Conveyor Speed (FPM): 0 - 10
System Opening Size (W X H): 30" x 24"
Max. Load Weight: 700 lbs. on the belt
Power Supply: 460V / 3Ph / 60Hz - 163 amps
Water Supply: 1/2" NPT
Water Discharge (Drains & Overflows): 2" NPT
Wash Pump Performance: 20 HP / 470 GPM @ 50 PSI
Wash Tank Volume: 1,000 gals.
Rinse Pump Performance: 7.5 HP / 170 GPM @ 50 PSI
Rinse Tank Volume: 500 gals.
Wash & Rinse Tank Heat: 2,000,000 BTU - Natural Gas
De-Ionized Rinse Pump Performance: 5 HP / 120 GPM @ 50 PSI
De-lonized Rinse Tank Volume: 200 gals.
De-lonized Rinse Tank Heat: 54 KW - Electric
Blower performance (Quiet Zone): 10 HP / 280 CFM @ 80 IWC
Blower Performance (Dry Chamber): 18 HP / 600 CFM @ 80 IWC
Exhaust Motor: 3/4 HP - Manual dampeners

 

[Danglerb]

Shoot me if this is really dumb, but I have been using a big pan, a parts brush and a tooth brush, and Marvel Mystery oil, and it seems to work ok on most motor parts. Next level up for me is simple green or citrus stuff.

 

[T56 Impala]

Shoot me if this is really dumb, but I have been using a big pan, a parts brush and a tooth brush, and Marvel Mystery oil, and it seems to work ok on most motor parts. Next level up for me is simple green or citrus stuff.

I'm with you! I've built many an engine doing just that. (High end, high HP/TQ BBC and SBC, and one outstanding 302 Ford. Yes they still run.) Add a good blow gun to a compressor and you should be good to go. Sure, it may take a little more time but it still works.

 

[timgr]

Having said that, I am looking for a parts cleaner myself, but what is the best solvent to put in ? Agitene ? some kind of Calif. illegal stuff ? water (aqueous) stuff ? Graymills sells aquatene which needs to be heated.

30 years ago, when I worked at a car dealership, we filled the parts washer with plain paint thinner. AFAIK parts wash, Stoddard solvent, naptha, paint thinner are all basically the same juice. These are just the low volatility, low viscosity byproduct of oil distillation. They consist of a mixture of a lot of different oily compounds, with all about the same molecular weight and low vapor pressure.

When we needed to change the tank, we'd take a 50 gallon drum to the local paint store and fill it up with thinner. They sold thinner by the gallon from a gasoline pump.

I'd expect you could do way better than $6/gal that stuff listed above cost if you just buy thinner in gallon cans at the Home Depot. I'd also expect you could do better if you buy in bulk where your local painter gets his/her supplies.

hth!

 

[Uncle Buck]

I was thinkin of gettin this one. Anyone have this one?

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=41108

I like that one for the additional size and capacity it would allow for, I have the shrunk down version and it has done me proud for many years.

 

[Uncle Buck]

I think it is just the "normal" HF quality that everyone is afraid of, why risk it when a quality unit in this case is not much more.

Having said that, I am looking for a parts cleaner myself, but what is the best solvent to put in ? Agitene ? some kind of Calif. illegal stuff ? water (aqueous) stuff ? Graymills sells aquatene which needs to be heated.

I need one pretty bad to replace my SafetyKleen unit and solvent, SafetyKleen can no longer give me or replace my solvent without me getting a Hazardous Waste License (thank you California), so I have to figure out what next.

That license you are speaking of will be the tip of the iceberg, just wait till you get the price for the lab analysis of the waste you are generating and what they charge for ongoing disposal..................get ready to dig deep my friend!

 

[Uncle Buck]

Now you did say you wanted a good parts washer. Is that right? In this day and age of import ****, look to the old lines:

http://www.graymills.com/SourceParts/Index.html

These people make their living building parts washers! So what do you want a $150 piece of **** or a real MACHINE.

I would love a real machine, but I can only afford a $100 piece of **** as opposed to the better $150 version!

 

[Uncle Buck]

I've used a 20 gallon washer from HF for about 8 years now without a single problem. What's supposed to be wrong with HF washers?

Not a ****** d**m thing, I have one myself I have used without complaint for many years. The high end jobs are great though for those with deeper pockets than yours and mine!

 

[jimvannoy]

Not a ****** d**m thing, I have one myself I have used without complaint for many years. The high end jobs are great though for those with deeper pockets than yours and mine!

I also have one. Been using it for many years with no problems at all. Best part is I got it on sale for $39.99.

 

[ksp]

Anyone ever use a washer that used air for the pumping? I saw one at Tractor Supply for about $300 and thought at least you shouldn't have a pump wearing out. I never used one like that though so don't k now how well they work.

 

[russlaferrera]

That license you are speaking of will be the tip of the iceberg, just wait till you get the price for the lab analysis of the waste you are generating and what they charge for ongoing disposal..................get ready to dig deep my friend!

Uncle Buck, Add a gallon of solvent to a gallon of waste motor oil, then dispose. in the normal manner. The waste oil tanks get a lot of sludge at the bottom and need a cleaner to help with the flow.

 

[Sack]

So I've started looking for a parts washer for the shop. I'm hoping that when I sell the lathe, bandsaw and unisaw that I'll have more room.

I've seen 4 different types:

Barrel mount - water based - http://www2.northerntool.com/product/200041374.htm

Barrel mount - solvent based - http://www2.northerntool.com/product/9030.htm

tub based - water based http://www2.northerntool.com/product/200303995.htm

tub based - solvent based - http://www2.northerntool.com/product/42666.htm

Those links are just so you can see what I mean in case my descriptions aren't that great.

Anyway, will be using in a garage that's attached to the house, so keeping the fumes and smell down would be great. But what are the pros/cons of each type ie. water based versus solvent based and tub based versus barrel based?
Thx.

 

[tennsmith]

I have a "carolina" brand, bought it at SAMs Club about 7-8 years ago. 20 or 30 gallon barrel with a rectangular tub sitting atop it. Submersible pump in the bottom of the barrel, kitchen sink type of drain back into barrel. I use mineral spirits in mine, keeping the lid down when not in use. Odor not a problem. My shop attached to the house and I never smell any odor, house or garage.

 

[neblinc]

I got this at TSC when it was on sale, I like it so far, takes some messing around to get the correct settings for the fluid brush.
You can close the valve to fill it for soaking parts and after you are done using it, drain the solvent back into the tank after letting all the dirt settle to the bottom. Pull out the screens and wipe down the bottom.

Randy

 

[ksp]

Is that the air powered one? How well does it work?

 

[RAYJAY]

Not a ****** d**m thing, I have one myself I have used without complaint for many years. The high end jobs are great though for those with deeper pockets than yours and mine!

+2 on the HF partswasher. I have mine 16 + years never a problem

Jeff

 

[Coach James]

I'm still at the metal tub and brush stage. I use a 10 gallon metal tub, tooth brush, etc and Right Stuff. Right Stuff is generic Simple Green. I get it for $4.99 a gallon at Agri-Supply.

Coach

 

[W-Cummins]

I have a snap-on Parts Washer, Acqueous, Electric, Cabinet model # PBC41A

 

[chavist93]

Here are some pics of mine from Northern Tool. I posted them in another thread, but I'll put them here too. I got it at Christmas time and its filled with mineral spirits. I love it. I have used the type from HF and this one is much better and well worth the extra money.

 

[Vicegrip]

i had a cheapo parts washer for a long time. I have to say that from a $ perspective you money is beter spent on other tools than a high bucks brand parts washer. It worked fine and the $ Safety-Kleen ones at work did not clean any better.

If you want to use a water based system be sure to look into a heated system. Cold water based sleaners are not all that good. The heated systems cut the grease far better and the part gets hot and dries very fast. if the water solvent is a good one it will have rust inhibitors the prevent flash rust.

I changed over from the solvent based one to a water based one but it was nutty expensive. On the other hand it works very well and has 3 modes of use. standard top tray, dishwasher type chamber and it can be rolled under components that are still on the car so you can clean them in place.

 

[Sack]

Ok, but how do I know which is better - water based or solvent based?

 

[russlaferrera]

Ok, but how do I know which is better - water based or solvent based?

+1 Solvent

 

[russlaferrera]

I have a "carolina" brand, bought it at SAMs Club about 7-8 years ago. 20 or 30 gallon barrel with a rectangular tub sitting atop it. Submersible pump in the bottom of the barrel, kitchen sink type of drain back into barrel. I use mineral spirits in mine, keeping the lid down when not in use. Odor not a problem. My shop attached to the house and I never smell any odor, house or garage.

I have the same one. Bought mine at Northern Tool LOVE It. I use only 5 gal in a 6 gal pail in the machine. I find it easier to recycle the dirty fluid than getting rid of 20 gal. plus it is a snap to clean out the drum.

 

[Crossthread]

Ok, but how do I know which is better - water based or solvent based?

Solvent, water-based, who cares. They all do the same job so just pick one and move on.

 

[nissan_crawler]

I don't have room for a big one, so I have this little cutie in my garage:

http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/itemdisplay/displayItem.do?itemid=35740&CategoryName=SHOP%20EQUIPMENT&SubCategoryName=PARTS%20WASHERS

It's only a 3 gallon, but it's still MUCH better than a pan and brush when you're cleaning bearings and such. I think it cost me all of $20. I put a seal around the lid, solvent level hasn't dropped in 4 years.

When I build my new bench, I'm setting this in the bench so it's flush with the benchtop. That'll give me that much more room on the bench.

 

[Uncle Buck]

I'm still at the metal tub and brush stage. I use a 10 gallon metal tub, tooth brush, etc and Right Stuff. Right Stuff is generic Simple Green. I get it for $4.99 a gallon at Agri-Supply.

Coach

For as cheap as the HF type are, and as good a job as they do you really should make the move and buy one if you have the storage room in your shop to spare. When you close the lid there is no oder to notice and it beats that ol metal tub all hollow!

 

[russlaferrera]

Solvent, water-based, who cares. They all do the same job so just pick one and move on.

I don't agree. I used both and found the solvent worked much better. It also makes a big difference on what kind of grease/dirt you are cleaning