To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Good Penetrating Fluids?

wyb2

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 27, 2012
Messages
188
Location
Southern NH
I don’t find any of them do much good to be honest. Whenever I’ve had a stuck fastener and got it off, the threads have always been bone dry no matter how long or how many times I’ve soaked it with penetrant.

Heat and freeze cycles however have never failed, plus some hefty application of torque
I’m surprised more people don’t notice this. The rusted threads are always bone dry unless you work them back and forth during removal.

I am a big fan of project farm, but 15 years of rust is hard to replicate in the few months he has to prep for a given test.

I recently tried an induction heater - night and day. Broke 5 of 8 on one side without it (propane and penetrating oil), and only 2 of 8 on the other side using it.

Edit: Actually, how could I forget? On the second side (exhaust manifold studs btw, since I didn’t specify) one was already broken. So only broke 1 of 7 with the induction heater.
 
Last edited:
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

bonneyman

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 22, 2010
Messages
8,773
Location
Desert SW
Jack Spray has several advantages. It doesn't have a bad odor, isn't profusely toxic, and comes out as a foam. Which sticks where you spray it and slowly loses the bubbles so 90% isn't wasted running everywhere.
I've found it extremely effective on rusted/water corroded items. have a Bissel carpet cleaner, the water pump was seized. Last time it was used was probably years ago, and the water residue corroded the little parts solid. Sprayed the Jack spray in there, and 2 days later the pump broke free! Now after using it I pump as much water out of it as possible and then spray the Jack spray for a second or two before turning it off. And the shower door rollers start hanging up - Jack spray frees them up after a day or two. Great stuff!
 

CGarage

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 23, 2018
Messages
2,995
Location
United States/Switzerland
To close out the topic, Liquid Wrench this morning and 16 years of winter road chemical abuse was confronted and beat in the afternoon.
Thanks for the replies.


I like my penetrating lubricant and rust removing spray like how I like my women:

Cheap and cheerful

😘😘😉



$20 US a can and special order from Kroil direct has made me buy alternatives.

Have also had great luck with Marvel Mystery Oil in an oil dispenser.
 

NUTTSGT

Super Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Sep 14, 2009
Messages
50,884
Location
Northern Central Ohio
WD-40, PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, DG brand penetrating oil, Kroil.

I keep all of them and use accordingly to what the job is. A decade and a half of rust belt, I would start soaking down a few days/week prior probably with Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster.
 

Mgdoug3

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 2, 2018
Messages
1,391
Location
KY
I've used about every kind of penetrating oil and it's mostly just to feel like I tried. I usually use PB Blaster, Sea Form Deep Creep or ATF/acetone if I really want to feel like I tried. If a torch isn't possible, I've had the best luck using my bolt rattler on my air hammer. It's great for removing exhaust bolts.
 

seber

Well-known member
Joined
May 31, 2016
Messages
4,195
Location
Deep East Tx.
I have at least four different types. I've never had any of them do a damn thing. If heat is not possible, put a box end on it and turn while beating on it with a hammer. There is also a tool made for this that uses an air hammer for power. I once had one stuck that absolutely had to be done without damage and no room for any of the usual methods. I put a box end on it and tapped both ways alternately until it finally broke loose. Only took about four hours.
 

dnschmidt

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 3, 2014
Messages
7,270
Location
Phoenix, AZ
I like my penetrating lubricant and rust removing spray like how I like my women:

Cheap and cheerful

😘😘😉



$20 US a can and special order from Kroil direct has made me buy alternatives.

Have also had great luck with Marvel Mystery Oil in an oil dispenser.
Where the hell are you finding Kroil for a paltry $20 a can? Those were the good old days.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

KnurledNut

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 28, 2011
Messages
8,104
Location
n/a
I keep a variety, so I have options depending on application.
If I need to douse something heavily, Liquid Wrench.
When I need it to cling, Nano Pro M/T initially has a high viscosity.
For pinpoint tough applications, if I dont need the reach of the aerosol version, I prefer Kroil in the drip can.
Controlled application with less waste.
I can walk in and buy either off the shelf here; that convenience softens the premium a little.
I was tearing down a hub assembly this week to replace bearings and Kroil was my weapon of choice.
I keep some 50/50 ace/atf in a small metal Oatey PVC primer container with the screwtop dauber. Its been useful and stores safely.
The smell of PBB kills me, so while I have some, I try to avoid it.
Loctite LB8713 comes out when I feel fancy.
I have heard good things about Mule Heads Creepola and Free All.
 
Last edited:

justintendo

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 5, 2020
Messages
152
Location
pennsylvania
I just grabbed a can of this Seafoam penetrant from my local NAPA a couple months ago and have actually been pretty impressed with it the few times I've used it now. I just used it on the cables on my Toro snowblower as a test as well. It may not be a good test though because there are no current issues with the controls on the machine, I did it solely as a preventive measure.

For the past 35+ years as an Industrial Maintenance Mechanic I have been using Kroil. I love the stuff but I understand many don't like it because of the cost as I think it is the most expensive penetrant known to man. I had actually never heard of it growing up but once I got into the professional field back in 1988, I quickly became familiar with it, especially in our environment. The equipment we work on has many heat cycles between the freezer boxes and ambient multiple times a day and over time corrosion becomes a big issue, maybe even moreso that vehicles sitting in ambient for years exposed to the elements of mother nature.

I also have a small plastic squeeze bottle with a needle tip that have a mixture of AFT and Acetone. I know people swear by it and I do think it works well, but not as good as Kroil.

Last year when I pulled the turbo off my Duramax I was worried about breaking fasteners as that seems to be a common theme amongst turbo removals. I soaked the up-pipe and turbo stand fasteners the night before beginning the disassembly. I applied Kroil to one bank and the other was a mixture of Acetone/ATF and PB Blaster as a test.

While I didn't break any fasteners on the whole job, which is a blessing in itself, once the fasteners broke free I noted that the side with Kroil and those with the Acetone/ATF seemed to release slightly better as far as being able to thread them out by hand sooner in the removal process. The several that had PB Blaster I had to use the ratchet and socket a few more revolutions before being able to thread out by hand.

The interesting part was once the fasteners were fully removed, I noticed that the ones soaked with Kroil had more of the threads further away from the head of the fastener coated with penetrant than any of the others. This to me proved the slogan "the oil that creeps" to actually work.

I didn't have any of the Seafoam Deep Creep at the time but I would have liked to have thrown that into the mix as well.

I have also learned that having the ability to get access with an oxy/acetylene torch will do wonders on fasteners alone. Then drip in a little candle wax and makes for a smooth extraction.
i use a fat gauge medical syringe to apply the deep deep to cables..spray some in a cup and let it foam out. used on snowmobile throttles for years if that says anything!
you mention wax and that works well! i keep a toilet bowl rind around for just that.
 

VolvoRyan

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 29, 2019
Messages
1,339
Location
Kentuckiana, USA
Heat beats penetrating oil every day. The Mini-Ductor struggles when heat soak is an issue.... but sometimes it's enough. Nothing beats acetylene. HF can set you up quick there. I exchanged my empty bottles for surprisingly cheap down the road. I upgraded a few things from the HF kit.

I had luck with the fire-n-wax trick once. I had a stud frozen in a turbo turbine housing. Fire, beat with hammer, wax, turn stud with giant pliers. Rinse and repeat until it came out. Still was a hell of a chore.

-Ryan
 

liliysdad

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 18, 2008
Messages
5,379
I use whatever I can fond at estate or garage sales for next to nothing. I currently have 10+ pints of Mystik Penetrating Oil that I paid $1/can for that I figure will last me for the rest of my life. I don't really see a lot of difference in any of them.
 

ATC

Well-known member
Joined
May 12, 2012
Messages
8,267
Location
VA
I'm gonna miss Kroil :cry:

I literally blurted out "Holy ****!" when I saw the price of it on the shelf of True Value/Ace a few months ago. $26 for a 10oz can I think. Employee further down the aisle whipped around my way and asked if there was anything he could help with. I told him to go grab the defibrillator!

I have a few cans of Kroil left. I used to buy their 16oz king size cans direct from them at 2 for $16 plus shipping. I wish I bought it by the gallon knowing what I know now.

I refuse to buy or use PB Blaster. The smell is revolting to me, and it burns my skin. I won't use Acetone/ATF, because I'm not going to spend my time mixing concoctions and finding something to store it in.

Back to the drawing board. I think I have some Liquid Wrench around here. I'd like to try some of the Seafoam stuff too.
 

RPH

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 17, 2006
Messages
4,190
Location
Michigan Thumb
Brake fluid the older versions. Just don’t get it on paint as it come off quickly,
It will soak in through capillary actions. That was one of grand past tricks. It works!
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom