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Good quality Tap

gte718p

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Mar 12, 2009
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I have two projects going that require a ton of little tapped holes, mostly M4 .70 pitch. Due to the locations, I have to hand tap most of the holes. I've broken already broken two taps. In all likelihood I'll go through a few more. Buying them individually locally is excessively expensive and inconvenient. Anyone have a goods source for a reasonably priced box of M4 taps?

I've looked at amazon, zoro, MSC. They seem excessively expensive or really poorly reviewed.
 
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pacemade

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Dec 1, 2015
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Alaska
I have a rusted out floor board in my truck, I'm going to cut out the rust and lay sheet metal over the gaps. I can't weld so my big idea is to screw in or bolt in the pieces. Has anybody done a similar project? Should I drill and tap the holes?
 

royesses

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Mar 28, 2009
Messages
789
"I have two projects going that require a ton of little tapped holes, mostly M4 .70 pitch. Due to the locations, I have to hand tap most of the holes. I've broken already broken two taps. In all likelihood I'll go through a few more. Buying them individually locally is excessively expensive and inconvenient. Anyone have a goods source for a reasonably priced box of M4 taps?"

I've looked at amazon, zoro, MSC. They seem excessively expensive or really poorly reviewed.
Norseman at Harry J Epstein's:
http://www.harryepstein.com/index.php/4mm-x-7-d7-hss-plug-tap-2-flutes.html

I've also had good luck with Hertel and Interstate taps from http://www.use-enco.com
 
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pacemade

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Dec 1, 2015
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Alaska
It would help a lot if I could figure out how to post pictures of my projects on here. I will pick up the rivets and tool tonight when I pick up my sheet metal. How about buffing off the rust and protecting the new metal from premature rusting?
 
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gte718p

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Mar 12, 2009
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Blind or thru holes?

Both

Wouldn't it be easier to pop rivit the new material in place

In my case, I'm building machinery that has to come apart. For floor boards, I would rivet. I the only exception might be around the shifter for maintenance. Rivet nuts are your friend their.

Make sure you're using cutting oil with the tap!

I'm using plenty of oil. It is side force b/c I'm having to do some of them at a strange angle. One of the taps I broke I just wasn't paying attention and side loaded it. Not the most forgiving things.
 

pacemade

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Dec 1, 2015
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Alaska
How do you upload pictures? When it ask for URL does that mean I have to upload them to the internet then link it?
 

theoldwizard1

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Feb 22, 2011
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SE MI
Doing pop rivets are stupid easy. Drill a hole put the rivet in the gun, give it a couple squeezes and you have a riveted piece.
A couple of tips for pop rivets.


  • Length is extremely important. Too long or too short and they just won't have the strength.
  • Use rivet with larger than average heads. I buy mine at a fastener store that has many different sizes.
  • Use backing plate, especially with aluminum or thin steel. Include the thickness of the backing plate when buying your rivets.
 

theoldwizard1

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ttpete

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Dearborn, MI
Make yourself a tap guide. Drill a hole through a small block of steel that just allows the tap to pass through. When you tap, place the block against the work and hold it down, then run the tap through it and into the work. It will eliminate any side loading and hold the tap at right angles to the surface.

I recommend that you use quality high speed steel (HSS) taps.
 

shockwave

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Oct 23, 2012
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Marietta,ga
I would look for greenfield or Norseman hss taps and use with kroil or bg green can and back up every 3 or 4 threads

I have also had good luck with grease to (keeps slot of flakes together)
 

Ign

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Jul 7, 2006
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Butte Peak ND
I have had great success with McMaster Carr taps and they ship really fast
http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-taps/=10b5srw

There's no such thing. They sell you whatever brand they choose and it will vary.

Buying cutting tools from McMaster is like buying motor oil at the grocery store - you never know what you're gonna get & there's no selection.

The OP should consider upping his tap drill size a bit and, if possible, use spiral flute taps (not spiral point). OSG might be a good brand to start with and machinists order from a real machinist's supply like Enco/MSC or Travers. Choose MSC's next-day free upgrade & you'll pay ground rates for Next Day Air Saver.
 

Rickss96

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SoCal
Go to the Questions & Suggestions forum, then do a search for 'photos' or 'pictures'.
Lots of advice there.
 

theoldwizard1

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Make yourself a tap guide.

Big Gator Tools MTG500NP V Style Tap Guide - Metric, 9 Holes - Amazon $19

414WDb3DI1L.jpg
 
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gte718p

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Mar 12, 2009
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You are probably breaking taps because you are applying a bending load to the tap while twisting it. Try using one of a number of tap guides that are commercially available.

Like this one:

http://www.flexbar.com/shop/pc/HAND-TAPPER-REAMER-W-2-SETS-JAWS-85p3777.htm

Already admitted that. Taps brittle and do not tolerate side loading well, Especially small ones. I realize part of my problem was complacency. Unfortunately I have yet to run across a tap guide that will work for my situation. The easy accessible ones I do on the mill or drill press. It is the ones inside things, upside down, on curved surfaces that are problematic.

I'm going end up breaking a few more. Its annoying, that is why I'm looking for good prices on good taps. I bought Harry Epstein out of their stock of M4 taps. I'll see how far that gets me after the holidays.
 

454ragtop

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Mar 24, 2008
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Carver, MA
Unfortunately I have yet to run across a tap guide that will work for my situation. The easy accessible ones I do on the mill or drill press. It is the ones inside things, upside down, on curved surfaces that are problematic.

I'm going end up breaking a few more. Its annoying, that is why I'm looking for good prices on good taps. I bought Harry Epstein out of their stock of M4 taps. I'll see how far that gets me after the holidays.

Did you look at the guide I posted? It works very well for most of those problem areas you mentioned. Note the base has vee shaped cutouts to work on curved surfaces. I loaned mine to a friend of mine to tap some holes on his boat, he was shocked at how well it worked.
Jim
 
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gte718p

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Did you look at the guide I posted? It works very well for most of those problem areas you mentioned. Note the base has vee shaped cutouts to work on curved surfaces. I loaned mine to a friend of mine to tap some holes on his boat, he was shocked at how well it worked.
Jim

I did, very cool. I might well end up buying one of those. I've never seen that style before. In this particular application, I would still have to have three hands to make it work. I could probably make it work with seem clamps, but setup would take longer then tapping the hole. Really I just need to be more careful.
 

thebeekeeper1

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Sep 5, 2012
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Location
Illinois
I have a rusted out floor board in my truck, I'm going to cut out the rust and lay sheet metal over the gaps. I can't weld so my big idea is to screw in or bolt in the pieces. Has anybody done a similar project? Should I drill and tap the holes?

I did that years ago on an old Dodge Ramcharger and just used self-drilling and tapping screws from Fastenal. Very quick and easy, then you coat with roofing tar, cut a half dozen layers of 20 lb. roof felt, then cover it with a floor mat. To the mud bog!
 
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gte718p

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The taps came in from Harry Epstein yesterday. I can report they are much much better the then Craftsman and Irwin taps that I had been using. They cut aluminum like butter.
 
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