goop/paste for fitting to air compressor ?

[American Locomotive]

My go to now is Loctite 567. It's expensive, but it works extremely well. It's only downside is that it does behave as a bit of a thread-locker. They say it has "low disassembly strength", but I found that anything over 1.5" NPT or so will require some heat (not a lot, maybe 120-130 degrees) to break it free with a reasonable sized wrench.

Of course in many applications, holding the fitting still is desirable.

 

[glend123]

i typically use 3 wraps of tape and a SMALL amount of dope.

 

[seber]

I've always read this but never piped an oxygen system. What exactly happens? Accelerated corrosion? Or it starts to burn up the sealant?

The carrier is organic. When any organic substance is exposed to pure oxygen bad things tend to happen. Ignition is spontaneous and violent.

 

[rshadd]

 

[unclerandy]

The OP ask:goop/paste for fitting to air compressor ?


Check and be sure you are not trying to install a 55*degree ISO thread to a 60*degree NPT thread. (as an example)

Most people don't realize the difference between all the systems and have leaks.


Just be sure you know what you have first before tying to seal two systems together.





.

How would I know about the thread “degree”? This is an Ingersoll Rand pressure switch going on an Ingersoll Rand compressor. It is the factory part being installed on the factory fitting. I wouldn’t think they are different threads.....?

 

[NitroShark]

You can assume they are the same but, many times they are not. We live in a global economy and fittings get mixed all the time. Metric vs imperial. Most of the world is metric standards and not NPT pipe unfortunately.

To be certain measure it. Then look it up on a chart.

 

[QwikKotaTx]

Wrecked her seal. Hah!

Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

 

[unclerandy]

Question about using a die;

If I use a 1/4 18 die to clean/condition the threads how far down can I go without damage since it’s tapered?

 

[MacMcMacmac]

I use Masters Pro Dope at work and it seals very well. Very difficult to get apart though on anything bigger than 1" that has been assembled for awhile. Permatex 567 is very good stuff and not as messy to apply. Tape and dope is a good solution for stuff that must not leak under any circumstances, like the safety relief valves on our natural gas compressor. Tape is good, except on oil or fuel, and use on hydraulics is not recommended due to bits getting into the fine clearances of the hydraulic valves and pumps.

I took apart (cut out!) some brass pipe a few years ago that had been assembled in the 1950's with some red thread sealant and I COULD NOT get it to move.

 

[The Cobbler]

Question about using a die;

If I use a 1/4 18 die to clean/condition the threads how far down can I go without damage since it’s tapered?

just to the bottom of the tap. if you go farther you start to lose the taper & the "perfect threads" and it will never seal

 

[usdemt]

I use Blue Monster Teflon tape for air. Liquid paste and stuff is way too messy for air lines and unnecessary in my opinion. Blue Monster seems expensive next to the cheap stuff but their is more on the roll and when you take a connector apart you can see how it "presses" into a soft plastic like compound that seems to seal really well.

 

[pstemari]

Question about using a die;

If I use a 1/4 18 die to clean/condition the threads how far down can I go without damage since it’s tapered?

Until you run it out of metal. The die is tapered, too. The entire length of the die will cut into the metal, reducing the diameter as it moves along. You may need to trim the end if it extends out of the die, since that part won't be left with a taper.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

 

[unclerandy]

I use Blue Monster Teflon tape for air. Liquid paste and stuff is way too messy for air lines and unnecessary in my opinion. Blue Monster seems expensive next to the cheap stuff but their is more on the roll and when you take a connector apart you can see how it "presses" into a soft plastic like compound that seems to seal really well.

Your saying liquid paste and stuff is unnecessary. Maybe you didn’t read my previous post and the issue I’m having. I’ve tried tape, tape and dope many times and still leaking. You think Blue Monster tape will be the cure? I don’t want to use some sticky paste or Loctite but everything else has failed so far.

 

[unclerandy]

I use Masters Pro Dope at work and it seals very well. Very difficult to get apart though on anything bigger than 1" that has been assembled for awhile. Permatex 567 is very good stuff and not as messy to apply. Tape and dope is a good solution for stuff that must not leak under any circumstances, like the safety relief valves on our natural gas compressor. Tape is good, except on oil or fuel, and use on hydraulics is not recommended due to bits getting into the fine clearances of the hydraulic valves and pumps.

I took apart (cut out!) some brass pipe a few years ago that had been assembled in the 1950's with some red thread sealant and I COULD NOT get it to move.

The 567 is not “Permatex”, it’s Loctite brand. You say tape and dope is a solution for no leaking but that’s what I’ve been doing and it leaks!

 

[u3b3rg33k]

I used locktite blue (242?) recently for a cheap fitting that refused to not leak down over 48 hours with tape. got the job done. just the one fitting in the whole system. gotta love poorly cut threads.

 

[MacMcMacmac]

The 567 is not “Permatex”, it’s Loctite brand. You say tape and dope is a solution for no leaking but that’s what I’ve been doing and it leaks!

Yes, Loctite, my mistake. I keep getting them mixed up.

You might try teflon tape for gas fitting as it is thicker than the DIY stuff you get most places. If dope and tape cant seal it, it sounds like buggered threads or a straight thread in a taper thread mismatch.

You could always use silicone sealant and let it cure overnight or a couple of days. Loctite also had a string style sealer that you wound up inside the thread root on the male thread. It was untidy but I found it to work well.

 

[theoldwizard1]

I stumbled across this when chasing leaks on compressor fittings Loctite 565. It takes 24 hours to get close to 100% cured. After a couple of days, you have better hit brass fittings with a propane torch first before disassembly !

 

[unclerandy]

I spent some time on the phone with Loctite. I explained the whole situation and the tech guy said to use 567. I used a die to clean up the threads and installed a new pressure switch tonight. I’ll wait 24 hours and post the results. I appreciate the input.

 

[unclerandy]

Also to note; the pressure switch has a 1/4 npt plug on the right side. I tried the Monster teflon tape (2 wraps) on the plug and it barely went in a couple threads before getting impossibly tight to turn. It'll be interesting to see if that went in far enough to not leak.

 

[seber]

Your saying liquid paste and stuff is unnecessary. Maybe you didn’t read my previous post and the issue I’m having. I’ve tried tape, tape and dope many times and still leaking. You think Blue Monster tape will be the cure? I don’t want to use some sticky paste or Loctite but everything else has failed so far.

The first time I used teflon tape I did not realize that it is used as a filler, not just a friction reducer. It takes several wraps to make it work. The cheap stuff is thinner and requires more wraps.

 

[unclerandy]

The first time I used teflon tape I did not realize that it is used as a filler, not just a friction reducer. It takes several wraps to make it work. The cheap stuff is thinner and requires more wraps.

I used US made teflon tape of high quality. I started with three wraps, leaked, then six wraps, leaked, then 9-10 wraps and broke the fitting. Seems everything I had done probably would have worked perfect but I suspect there was/is a problem with the threads that tape wasn't going to resolve.

 

[pcmeiners]

You want a guaranteed leak free joint, Permatex (or pipe dope) and pipe thread. Years back NYC only allowed this for gas lines.