Got a free compressor and need help

[DWP1726]

I'm sure this might qualify as a "you ****" but searching Craigslist free stuff during lunch I saw a FREE compressor. Quick text to my son and he went over.
two fork lifts later and it was in the truck. From all looks is was still in use when the building changed hands. The new owners had no use for it.
Now I need some help getting a new motor for it. The classic motor is a 3phase.
5 horse 1735 RPM. I need something that works in my shop, 220 single phase.
Any Ideas.

Thanks
Dave
DWP1726
View media item 61377View media item 61373

 

[Cryptic1911]

I would keep that behemoth of a motor and get a phase converter for it

 

[Davefr]

I'm sure this might qualify as a "you ****"

Think again. The mere hint of a "you ****" results in instant disqualification!! Them's the rules!!

Before you sink a lot of money into it, get the tank hydrotested and make sure the pump is good.

 

[scooz14]

vfd for sure that old motor is awesome

 

[chruler]

Wow! Score! Look at the size of that tank! There are still lots of good finds out there!

 

[nadogail]

IMHO, first get the tank hydroed, then check the pump (a smaller motor will turn it ) enough to test the pump.

 

[PSYKO_Inc]

Nice score! For 5hp, I would just replace the motor with a single phase motor. A VFD/phase converter would likely cost as much or more than a replacement motor. Make sure you get a motor with the same RPM as your old one (1750 and 3450 RPM are the most common, you want a 1750.) If you find a smokin' deal on a 3450 RPM motor, you can make it work by changing out the motor pulley, but those multi-groove pulleys can be expensive so keep that in mind. Pay attention to amps, a lot of cheap imports rate "peak" or "developed" HP, which in my opinion is an outright lie. 5hp should pull somewhere in the neighborhood of 25 amps or so. Also once you get it up and running, put a clamp meter on one of the motor leads and see how much current it's actually pulling. Never exceed the amp rating of the motor, you can adjust the amount of current by changing pulley sizes. Also I don't see a pressure switch included, so you'll either need a pressure switch rated for at least 25 amps, or a mag starter with a smaller pressure switch. For that kind of current, you'll likely want a dedicated breaker. I would do a dedicated 50A circuit with a big RV-type plug and 6g wire, so you could also run a welder or other equipment (not at the same time obviously.) Good luck with it, and post pics of the progress

 

[md21722]

Good score. VFD for large motor is not the greatest idea for this application. EBay is your friend. $329 for a Baldor L1410/L1430. You will also need a magnetic starter. Something like this http://www.ebay.com/itm/272131202090 for $129.95.

 

[FMC1959]

Wow! Score! Look at the size of that tank! There are still lots of good finds out there!

Wow, look at the size of that motor! Yes, you do ****.

Have everything tested, if all good, I am with Cryptic, keep that motor!

 

[DWP1726]

As much as I would like tomuse the 3phase motor imthink i will,get this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-BALDOR-...537106?hash=item2810dbe052:g:SBwAAOSw~bFWJ-Fc

I do,have a 80 amp,service to the shop. Along with a industrial electrican neighbor to checkmthe wiring ect. Another friend is a highpressure helium installation tech that can be bribed with a simple BBQ.

I will ,keep the motor for now, love the old stuff. will keep you updated
DWP1726

 

[WWShop]

Isn't there a rule on GJ that you can't **** yourself??

 

[Todd.Brock]

Sorry - you don't **** .

What kind of compressor is that ? It is a lot of metal for free. The plate on the tank should give a rough idea of the year -provided the tank is original to the pump

 

[md21722]

Looks like an 80 gallon tank with IR T30 to me, not sure exactly which model. Maybe a 243/253.

 

[DWP1726]

Cannot get the copy paste om my ipad to work,stting in a school for my sons graduation.
If youngo to my profile there is more photos of the compressor

DWP1727

 

[Davefr]

As much as I would like tomuse the 3phase motor imthink i will,get this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-BALDOR-...537106?hash=item2810dbe052:g:SBwAAOSw~bFWJ-Fc

I do,have a 80 amp,service to the shop. Along with a industrial electrican neighbor to checkmthe wiring ect. Another friend is a highpressure helium installation tech that can be bribed with a simple BBQ.

I will ,keep the motor for now, love the old stuff. will keep you updated
DWP1726

Looks like a good motor but heed the advice from the forum before you starting sinking a lot of "moolah" into this unit.

Get the tank hydrotested and make sure the pump is good. That thing looks very old which can be good and bad.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Get the tank hydro-tested ...

You can do this yourself. There are a couple of videos on YouTube. You need the fitting to plug extra hole, a gauge good for at least 50% higher than the tank rating, pipe and adapters to to mount a Zerk fitting to the inlet and a GOOD lever (not hand) action grease gun.

Fill the tanks with water until it is 99.999% full. Seal it up with the Zerk fitting in place. You can use cheap grease or even very heavy oil (>70w) in the grease gun. The more air you leave in the tank, the more grease/oil you will need, but keep pumping. Any good grease gun should be able to fit 300+ psi easy.

 

[DWP1726]

Got the tank tested and everything is good. A friend of mine who works in high pressure helium installs came over to help. All we had to do was seal up all the holes with plugs. Fill the tank to about 1-2" with water. Using an argon tank he had in the truck. we applied pressure to the tank. You can see the fitting on the Left. 100,150,200 ect ended up with 350PSI NO leaks, giant explosion taking out the neighborhood nothing. Tank holds. If I knew it was this easy i could just used one of my welding tanks and a regulator.
Now the fun part, going to order a 5HP single phase motor. How to get the pulley off? The two holes are not threaded, not sure how well I can tap the one t with the dent. And cannot understand the tapered slots.
Dave
View media item 61578View media item 61579

 

[CNGsaves]

Great compressor for FREE . . . . . for sure.

However, you broke golden GJ rule of . . .
. . . .
. . . . . . THOU SHALL NOT **** THYSELF !!!!

Suckage Denied . . . even though it would have been earned.

I'd recommend puller to get that pulley off . . . AFTER . . you soak in PB Blaster.

 

[md21722]

There are 2 allen heads one against the keyway and then that other one that is sticking out and may not be making contact. You need to loosen up the allen and then use a pulley or other means to get the pulley off. Or you can measure the OD and replace with new parts from Grainger/Zoro, McMaster, etc.

 

[Shiftless]

Great compressor for FREE . . . . . for sure.

However, you broke golden GJ rule of . . .
. . . .
. . . . . . THOU SHALL NOT **** THYSELF !!!!

Suckage Denied . . . even though it would have been earned.

I'd recommend puller to get that pulley off . . . AFTER . . you soak in PB Blaster.

^^^^^^^^^
to what he said!
Kroil works even better or mix up a 50-50 blend of acetone and ATF

 

[theoldwizard1]

If those holes on the face of that retainer are deep enough (or you can make them deeper) tap (SAE not NC) them for the appropriate size.

A piece of flat bar with 3 holes and some bolts. The center hole needs to be tapped (or you need a fully threaded bolt and a nut) and the outer 2 just feed the bolts through into the holes you just tapped.

 

[dnschmidt]

Ron Jeremy can.

 

[1990 Grand Wag]

Let me join in the fun............"YOU ****!"

Once you get it up and running (and post a picture), I'll throw in another "YOU ****!"

 

[DWP1726]

Going to work on getting the pulley off tonight. If you look close at the slots on the pulley why are they slotted at a angle? like tapered in. Both allen screws came out without any problem, thats the good news.
Dave

 

[theoldwizard1]

Got an air hammer ? Put a blunt chisel in it and put it right on the motor output shaft. You don't have to go crazy, but a few short bursts maybe all you need.

 

[md21722]

Going to work on getting the pulley off tonight. If you look close at the slots on the pulley why are they slotted at a angle? like tapered in. Both allen screws came out without any problem, thats the good news.
Dave

Is this a two piece tapered pulley and bushing? Are there any bolt heads on the motor housing side? With a tapered setup, the pulley and bushing are tapered and bolts draw them together. Bolts would go through the bushing (non threaded) to the pulley (threaded). To separate the two, bolts would be removed and then installed into threaded holes in the bushing. Tightening the bolts forces the pulley and bushing to separate.

 

[ibedayank]

if tho ***** self better swallow

 

[MTW]

Split Taper Bushing Removal

What MD21722 said.

It looks to be an early style split tapered bushing and 3 grove sheave.

Those bolt holes are missing the clamping bolts that pull the two internal tapers together.

The bushing part has no threads, but the sheave part should have female threads.

Installing bolts and tightening will draw the two internal tapers together and clamp the bushing and sheave to the shaft. Loosening the bolts just slightly and tapping on them will push the taper fit apart. Most newer styles will have a extra set of threaded holes in the bushing face and none in the sheave for pushing them apart.

On a new style type you would remove the bolts from the locking position and insert them in the removing position and use them to push the taper fitting apart. Like Md21722 said some styles have the other set of threaded holes in the opposite face, to push the taper apart.

Your old timer style seems to have some slots in the bushing for a special puller to separate the taper fit.

Judging by the amount of hammer marks (beating) on the bushing, the last owner didn't understand how it worked either. The taper fit between the half's must be broken (separated) before the bushing will come off the shaft.

The fact, that the clamping bolts are missing and it still didn't loosen up or come apart while running, is a true testament on how good a taper lock setup clamps and holds.

Some oil and heat to the sheave part will help in breaking the taper if the internal surfaces are rusty or hammered on (displaced metal)

Install some long bolts. Make sure that they are fully engaged with the entire thread in the sheave. Tap on the heads alternately to break the bond. Once the taper fit is broken you should be able to remove the bushing.

MTW Ω

 

[md21722]

If what MTW and I are saying is correct, then you may wish to purchase a new bushing & sheave setup. Grainger/Zoro sell TB Woods and McMaster sells Martin brand. I purchased a SDS118 and 642B TB Woods for my Champion compressors (6.8" OD 2-groove with SDS bushing). Either will have the correct setup for what you need, 3 groove with whatever the OD is. If you are buying a new motor you may just wish to figure this into the cost and leave the old pulley on the old motor.

 

[DWP1726]

The pulley is off. Took almost no effort at all. I think the clue was that both all screws came out with no problems. What i did was to take a steel wedge an VERY light tap with hammer working around the pulley. Normally i would never consider this but when you look at the amount of steel i gave it a try.
After several taps the pulley started to move with no problem. A couple on minutes and the pulley is off. Looking at the back of the pulley I think that the holes are for some type of spanner wrench not through bolts.Could be wrong have to clean it up later for a good look.
Thanks for the help let you know when the parts com i.
Dave
View media item 61581View media item 61582

 

[md21722]

And old steel wedge for an old pulley. Love it!

 

[DWP1726]

Got a 5hp motor, magnetic starter, Forgot the pressure switch. Any ideas for a good one.?
Thanks m
Dave
dwp1726