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T45

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Well that was interesting! Thanks for all the orders gents. I frankly wasn't expecting that when I sat down to solve my problem! Apparently, it's a common one. When your material arrives I'll get them turned around and shipped pronto.

So here's a question: If I did a socket tray(s), do y'all prefer them to fit snug or just a bit loose, or does it really matter? Do you prefer the bottom to have a protrusion that fits the drive hole? I'm coming up with a couple designs and want to do something people want, that is useful, but that isn't really out there now. Once done I'll create a thread in the classifieds.

Ultimate Socket tray would be a layer of HDPE on the bottom, and foam glued on top in a contrasting color. The foam holds em tight-ish but easy to remove... and the HDPE allows you to keep them stiff...thus reducing footprint (you can make smaller modules, not just full-trays!).

:rocker:

Like these without the box
 

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twertsy

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Ultimate Socket tray would be a layer of HDPE on the bottom, and foam glued on top in a contrasting color. The foam holds em tight-ish but easy to remove... and the HDPE allows you to keep them stiff...thus reducing footprint (you can make smaller modules, not just full-trays!).

:rocker:

Like these without the box

Hmm, may have to investigate that.....
 
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twertsy

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The only issue I see with the foam on the top layer is labeling. I've messed around attempting to CNC socket / wrench sizes into the Kaizen foam and it doesn't work so I've always just used either a paint pen or silver sharpie. Nice thing about the HDPE is that it's fairly easy to engrave the size labels although, I am having issues getting the feed/speed right for a 1/32 tip router bit. I keep getting the "melted" bits hanging on to the cut but I'm afraid to speed up such a small bit for fear of breaking it. If anyone can offer insight to this I'm using a 1/32 tapered ball nose with a 5% taper to engrave the size labels .88" into the plastic (to reveal the center color for contrast) but continuously get the "hairy hang-on" ****. Any feed/speed suggestions? As far as I can tell, they don't sell a regular up-cut bit in 1/32 for plastic.
 

1foxracing

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I think a laser cutter/engraver would be better suited to for marking the size labels in the HDPE. Ideally you could cut the HDPE with the CNC router then have a laser etch the labels.
At my office we both a CNC router and a laser cutter/engraver, sadly I'm not smart enough to write those type of complicated DXF files.
 
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twertsy

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I think a laser cutter/engraver would be better suited to for marking the size labels in the HDPE. Ideally you could cut the HDPE with the CNC router then have a laser etch the labels.
At my office we both a CNC router and a laser cutter/engraver, sadly I'm not smart enough to write those type of complicated DXF files.

Agree that engraving would be better but I'm utilizing the multi-color layered HDPE. To get the color contrast I need to dig through the top layer (.88") to reveal the color underneath so it's not really "engraving." Simply etching/engraving it into the top layer would make the labels the same color as the surrounding material and would make it very difficult to see for quick tool selection. I have plenty of etching bits but don't think that'll work...........
 

CobraRed

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Very smart, I was around Haas CNCs of every variety for 4 years and never thought to make anything outside rifle parts.
 

ishiboo

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Someone needs to make a service where you take a high-resolution, digital photo of your tools on a piece of colored paper, with a reference image for scale, and send it and they laser cut your foam and send it back.
 

T45

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Maybe we should start a tool measurement wiki thread
 

n8n

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no spaces designated for Pozidriv or JIS? :p

(relevant to my interests as I just ordered both sets of bits today, PB Swiss Pozi and Vessel JIS)
 
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twertsy

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Wait, you want $20 + shipping? Where were you then? http://garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=266991

I may have to rethink this project.

I don't think I've put a price out there yet :dunno: I'm kinda hoping to have a more comprehensive library of "canned" cuts before doing so. Otherwise, it takes the better part of a day to get everything set up for a new layout. Oh, and in regards to the other thread you linked to, I have the large Makerbot and can 3D print up to 12x12x12 as well.................

Someone needs to make a service where you take a high-resolution, digital photo of your tools on a piece of colored paper, with a reference image for scale, and send it and they laser cut your foam and send it back.

Wouldn't that be nice! Are you volunteering?

Maybe we should start a tool measurement wiki thread

Yes, Yes, YES! It'd sure make things easier on this end. I spent an hour or so trying to nail down SO socket specs yesterday to no avail. You can go to each individual socket and the specs are noted, but there doesn't appear to be a comprehensive size chart by set. :dunno:

no spaces designated for Pozidriv or JIS? :p

(relevant to my interests as I just ordered both sets of bits today, PB Swiss Pozi and Vessel JIS)

You mean label? I thought they were the same 1/4" drive so changing labels, or adding another couple rows and widening the tray is simple.

By the way, a bunch of y'all ordered the Bit Driver trays and materials should start showing up today/tomorrow. I'll post pics as I wrap them up. I can't wait to see how the black/yellow/black sheet looks when complete. Unfortunately, I in no way want to be associated with the Steelers so that one is out of the question for my box, but I'll wager it's going to come out awesome!
 
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twertsy

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A bunch of raw material just arrived. Full day of cutting bit holders! The bigger / thicker stuff in the second pic is for a new design for a Socket Tray......coming soon.
 

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twertsy

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Ok, headed off to a-hem.............a cheerleading competition but managed to get two more cut.
 

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paranoid56

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I think a laser cutter/engraver would be better suited to for marking the size labels in the HDPE. Ideally you could cut the HDPE with the CNC router then have a laser etch the labels.
At my office we both a CNC router and a laser cutter/engraver, sadly I'm not smart enough to write those type of complicated DXF files.

HDPE doesn't laser etch very well. I also do a lot of HDPE cutting on my cnc router and have also tried laser etching and wile it works, it more so melts then engraves like other plastic.
 
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twertsy

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I have carving knives but again, I personally think you have to get down to the next color for contrast. It'd take 20 passes to try and engrave it.
 
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n8n

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You mean label? I thought they (Pozidriv and JIS bits) were the same 1/4" drive so changing labels, or adding another couple rows and widening the tray is simple.

Yup, just throwing the idea out there... I literally just ordered some of each yesterday because a) I actually have used my Pozis before and b) I don't have any JIS bits but I'm told that they are critical for e.g. working on Japanese motorcycles.

Also, some impact bits are 5/16"/8mm... another product suggestion? :) (and a space for a 3/8" to 5/16" and 1/2" to 5/16" impact bit holder)
 

dpaton

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OK, so my spreadsheet is a google doc. I'd posit that a single document, accessable from the cloud, and readable and writable by anyone here would be a great way to build a database of socket sizes and part numbers, right? I'll be happy to open it up to anyone who wants in. PM me your email address and I'll add you to the editors of the spreadsheet.

The sheet lives here for now:

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1-73YHu7rP-L5Kg700BLfE-EM2RuBPGICE-EFOiPIN9M/pubhtml

This is a public facing web page version, no editing happens at that link, only viewing. Yep, the sheets are kinda messy right now, but some sorting will fix that after I come down from the pile of beers I've had tonight.
 
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twertsy

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OK, so my spreadsheet is a google doc. I'd posit that a single document, accessable from the cloud, and readable and writable by anyone here would be a great way to build a database of socket sizes and part numbers, right? I'll be happy to open it up to anyone who wants in. PM me your email address and I'll add you to the editors of the spreadsheet.

The sheet lives here for now:

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1-73YHu7rP-L5Kg700BLfE-EM2RuBPGICE-EFOiPIN9M/pubhtml

This is a public facing web page version, no editing happens at that link, only viewing. Yep, the sheets are kinda messy right now, but some sorting will fix that after I come down from the pile of beers I've had tonight.

Count me in, [email protected]. It'd also be great if we could capture the socket length. You'll see why when I post my new design for socket trays. Should be this weekend but latest next week sometime. The last column I'd think to be important is "vintage." Based on the collection of stuff I have, the older vintage (at least sockets) seem to be heavier/thicker :dunno:
 

n8n

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OK, so my spreadsheet is a google doc. I'd posit that a single document, accessable from the cloud, and readable and writable by anyone here would be a great way to build a database of socket sizes and part numbers, right? I'll be happy to open it up to anyone who wants in. PM me your email address and I'll add you to the editors of the spreadsheet.

The sheet lives here for now:

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1-73YHu7rP-L5Kg700BLfE-EM2RuBPGICE-EFOiPIN9M/pubhtml

This is a public facing web page version, no editing happens at that link, only viewing. Yep, the sheets are kinda messy right now, but some sorting will fix that after I come down from the pile of beers I've had tonight.

I just got the 1/2" drive SK set if you want to add those to your sheet as well. Dunno when I'll be near my calipers again however.
 

dpaton

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What happens to the socket fit during thermal expansion/contraction, as in an unheated garage?

I brought mine in from a -2F garage to measure on the kitchen table. Since the coefficient of expansion of steel is about 0.00000645in/in/deg F, my 1.56 dia largest socket may shrink/grow by 0.000645in over the 100F temp swing my garage will experience in a typical year. A bit more than half a thou. Not an issue. As far as the plastic, Alro Plastics says 6x10^-5 in/in/deg F, which means about 6 thou change over the same temperature range. Again, not a huge deal assuming tolerances are taken into account, which they need to be. As measured, I have sockets of the same diameter that vary by more than 10 thou, not at all uncommon in an application where forging and heavy plating are employed.

Count me in, [email protected]. It'd also be great if we could capture the socket length. You'll see why when I post my new design for socket trays. Should be this weekend but latest next week sometime. The last column I'd think to be important is "vintage." Based on the collection of stuff I have, the older vintage (at least sockets) seem to be heavier/thicker :dunno:

I'll see if I can make some updates. I thought about adding length as I fell asleep, after I'd put everything away. Blame the beer. I also need to figure out a way to handle the offset flare some larger sockets have around the base, and even some smaller ones with bottom hexs like spark plug sockets.

And yep, vintage applies too. Do you want to run it as a 'year' column or something more nebulous and free-response?

I just got the 1/2" drive SK set if you want to add those to your sheet as well. Dunno when I'll be near my calipers again however.

I haven't started typing in numbers from the web pages yet, but they're all there.
 
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FMC1959

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Those trays look great, especially your original hex bit tray, something that there isn't much choice on the market.

For anything socket related, not sure if this is what they are referring to with the spreadsheet, but outside diameter is not a constant. A 3/8 drive 1/2" socket will have different outside diameters from one brand to the next. Some brands may have the same size, but others will be different.

I have one of these Hansen socket trays (pic below). My Craftsman fit perfectly, but a full set of Williams I have do not. The socket walls are slight thicker and do not fit in the tray's hole.

If you make a peg type system, like many of the manufacturers of these organizers do (Hansen, Ernst, Westling...etc), you can count on 1/4", 3/8' and so on remaining constant.
 

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dpaton

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The spreadsheet is an attempt to collect all the ODs and lengths of the sockets, even down to era-specific changes. The goal is to let custom holders be created for specific collections, since the tight fit won't work with universal sizing.
 
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twertsy

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That is a very serious and exhaustive goal. To this endeavor I :bowdown: Collecting all of that info is a task, inputting the value changes for each board.... :willy_nil

It is a tough one. BUT, in the pic you'll see what just arrived today! Wifi enabled digital caliper from Brown and Sharpe. I can literally measure each socket and send the data to a spreadsheet on my computer!!! This friggin thing is awesome!
 

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twertsy

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Those trays look great, especially your original hex bit tray, something that there isn't much choice on the market.

For anything socket related, not sure if this is what they are referring to with the spreadsheet, but outside diameter is not a constant. A 3/8 drive 1/2" socket will have different outside diameters from one brand to the next. Some brands may have the same size, but others will be different.

I have one of these Hansen socket trays (pic below). My Craftsman fit perfectly, but a full set of Williams I have do not. The socket walls are slight thicker and do not fit in the tray's hole.

If you make a peg type system, like many of the manufacturers of these organizers do (Hansen, Ernst, Westling...etc), you can count on 1/4", 3/8' and so on remaining constant.

The issue with that is waste. Cutting all that material out around each peg would be well, just stupid on my part, as well as on your part for paying what I'd need to charge for wasted material. I could do a vacuum mold, or injection mold as I've don't them before with aluminum, copper and bronze, but where's the individuality in that?

Sure, I can cut out pegs, but what's the point? It's already out there with the Hansen Trays and others. I want to produce something that fits YOUR tools. Exhaustive and a P...I...T...A, yes, but as a consumer, wouldn't you be happy that the product you bought was made to address YOUR specific problem? I know I would. That said, we're working on a REALLY cool Wrench Storage Rack that allows a minimum of 2 full sets of wrenches to occupy the same space, while all still being identifiable and reachable. I'm actually excited about the wrench idea because 1: I haven't seen it anywhere else and 2: I really need it!
 

duneslider

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Really interested in your wrench storage solution. That is the one area that I just can not figure out in my box. Everything I have tried takes up way too much space, or is difficult to find what I need.
 
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twertsy

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Really interested in your wrench storage solution. That is the one area that I just can not figure out in my box. Everything I have tried takes up way too much space, or is difficult to find what I need.

We're working it! FYI that this design is SPECIFICALLY for a 4" deep drawer (my KRL drawer if I'm to be honest). Maybe in the future we can get it to fit smaller but it is what it is right now. I can easily make it fit into a 3" drawer, but that might limit the >2 wrench set storage. I

n a 4" drawer, you will easily be able to fit 2 FULL 16 wrench sets, fully identified and extractable into the same space, with plenty of storage for "less used" wrenches underneath those 2 sets. I can't wait for my CAD guy to finish the design so I can cut one!!
 

RivennHewn

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Just want to say thank you, and leave some positive feedback.

I'm pretty dang happy with how they turned out, Transaction/shipping went very well too.

Only problem, I just spent an hour organizing my bits:lol:

Thanks again,
 

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twertsy

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Just want to say thank you, and leave some positive feedback.

I'm pretty dang happy with how they turned out, Transaction/shipping went very well too.

Only problem, I just spent an hour organizing my bits:lol:

Thanks again,

Which is exactly why I did it............I couldn't find my bits...Now, that's my fault but still, this makes it so much easier!
 

dpaton

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In a 4" drawer, you will easily be able to fit 2 FULL 16 wrench sets, fully identified and extractable into the same space, with plenty of storage for "less used" wrenches underneath those 2 sets. I can't wait for my CAD guy to finish the design so I can cut one!!

I love the idea, but I'm also hoping for something for a super shallow drawer (1 3/4") that can hold a set from 8-32mm that's not the Ernst low profile rails. I only have 1 4" drawer and that's reserved for sockets right now.
 
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twertsy

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Since joining this forum, I've been of sort of a tool collecting binge. I have a bunch of older, different brands and some of you have seen my Proto display board, and even are helping fill it, thanks!!

I've been thinking of ways to display other brand collections, without paying $300+ ebay prices for vintage boards. So attached is my first cut at a wrench display concept. I'm not at my shop so I don't have measurements but I'm guessing that given this set, it'd likely be about 18" x 36" but again, it's a guess. I'll measure my Wrightgrip set later to get a better idea. The pic is just an example (albeit an incredibly low quality drawing) of the layout. The outline would change depending on what you're displaying like DOE, DBE, Combo, etc. The logo would also change. In fact, I have two complete pristine Bonney wrench sets that are going to be my first test cases. So what I'm really looking for here is comments (+ and/or -), suggestions, and frankly, interest in these.

Love to hear y'alls thoughts? Maybe there aren't enough tool collectors on GJ to make it worth my while........:D
 

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