Got some progress started on shop build

[Firebird71]

Last I went to lowes and bought some of the lumber to start on the shop came home and started to getting stuff laid out to build the first wall this weekend if possible.. Looks like the shops final dimensions will be 32x21x10 foot. So my question is how long do I build the walls I've been told to leave 6 in on each end for overhang is this correct ? What size openings do you make for doors and windows. I know u make them oversize but how much over size I'm fixing to start framing my wall today and I need to put doors and a window in.
Thanks again guys


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Firebird71]

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Falcon67]

>I've been told to leave 6 in on each end for overhang is this correct

Sorry, have no idea what this means. You build the walls to fit the floor, such as it is. Any "overhang" would be built into the roofing.

>What size openings do you make for doors and windows.
The doors and windows you purchase will have rough opening dimensions. That's the size.

 

[stafford]

You really need to look at some literature on framing or watch some you tube vids. The header for a 3/0 door is 41". for 3/0 windows will be around 39" for the header. It looks to me like you have those studs laid out in that wall on 24" O.C. Stop right there and change your layout to 16" O.C. not that much more cost involved and will be much better to finish out I believe. It only takes 1/3 more materials to do that. Make sure your floor is square, if it's not you're going to have to lay it out square on the floor, finding a happy medium that will work with whatever floor you have. It can be done. If it were me and I've done a helluva lot of this I would build my two longest walls the length of the floor. Build them both the same length, just in case your floor isn't square like i said earlier. You probably need to find someone with some experience to help you at least to get started and on the right track. you can take the same material and build a pile of **** or something really nice, the only difference is knowing what you're doing.
I'm glad you're willing to tackle it without much or any experience but really, you do need to know a few things to do it and not waste your time and materials. (money).
Surely you know someone who can steer you in the right direction.
Good luck, you can do it, but take your time and know exactly what it is you're doing and why you're doing it.
I wish I were nearby, I'd be glad to get you started.
Again, Good Luck,
Stafford

 

[matt_i]

Its really worthwhile to draw up some plans on graph paper, if nothing else. That way you have a standard to compare to later on. There will be a load of things that have to "fit" and no person can keep them all in their head. There will be times when nothing is making sense with the tape measure in hand, and that's when you need the drawing (the standard) to refer back to. Its perfectly OK to modify the drawing and the build midway thru for this and that, but at least you have a handle on how to setup the new dimensions to accommodate whatever currently won't fit.

As above there should be R.O. or rough opening dimensions for each window and door (even garage door more or less) so you need to pick those out ahead of time.

I highly recommend framing 16" on center studs.

 

[DalyArcher]

I am confused about the overhang question too. As stated above, walls are built to the size of the slab, roofs have overhangs. What are you doing for a roof? Tusses (ordered or built on site) or rafters?

Looks lie you went 2x4? I personally would recommend 2x6 construction framed on 16" centers. if for nothing else than the insulation value.

I don't want to come off sounding like a ****, but I really think you need to pump the brakes on this project and do a bit more research before buying materials and getting all gung-ho to start making sawdust and swinging a hammer. Figure out the windows you are using first, if buying new, the rough opening will be stated by the manufacturer and size your headers appropriately. How big of a door are you putting in? you may need to look into an lvl for the header if going to a large roll-up door.

this link shows great detail on blocking out corners on a 2x6 wall:

http://design.medeek.com/resources/framing/FRAMING_CORNERS.jpg

If you want a real, well delivered, concise education, type "Larry Haun" into youtube and be amazed! I watched his videos from a habitat for humanity project he was on and was blown away by a 70 year old plus guy driving 3 1/2 sinkers with one blow, out working the mid 30's guys behind him.

Best of luck in your project.

 

[Firebird71]

Its really worthwhile to draw up some plans on graph paper, if nothing else. That way you have a standard to compare to later on. There will be a load of things that have to "fit" and no person can keep them all in their head. There will be times when nothing is making sense with the tape measure in hand, and that's when you need the drawing (the standard) to refer back to. Its perfectly OK to modify the drawing and the build midway thru for this and that, but at least you have a handle on how to setup the new dimensions to accommodate whatever currently won't fit.



As above there should be R.O. or rough opening dimensions for each window and door (even garage door more or less) so you need to pick those out ahead of time.



I highly recommend framing 16" on center studs.

There on 18 centers or should I go to 16s


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[DalyArcher]

framing on 16 inch centers insures you have a stud at the 4 foot/8 foot mark, essentially lining up with your sheathing material. 8 foot sheets will fall on center of a stud.

 

[pima67]

When all else fails, follow the plans showing the stud spacing, header dimensions, rough opening sizes, rafter/truss sizes, etc.. You do have plans, don't you?

 

[red61cj5]

I find its beneficial to have the doors and windows on hand before framing walls, except maybe the big garage door, and for that call the dealer for framing instructions, he'll be happy to help you. Otherwise you really need to get a book on basic framing technique, it aint brain surgery, but its not exactly instinctive either. Best of luck and remember, square, level, and plumb.

 

[Firebird71]

Went back and recentered everything


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[btdobie]

I bought my house with an unfinished garage, and when I went to finish it, I found out that the original builder must not have even owned a squared. It was a pain from start to finish getting sheets of drywall cut to precisely the right angle and trimming off 1/2" portions because studs weren't exactly 16" OC. In the builders defense however, the garage is 30 years old so some settling may have occurred. Anyway, the moral of the story is as others have said: its worth taking the time to get it right during framing, or it will catch up to you while finishing.. Good luck, I hope we get to see pictures of the finished product.

 

[glentre]

We all were inexperienced at some time and you should be congratulated for taking on this project. Being in the same boat as you some years ago, I bought some framing books from Lowes and Home Depot which were excellent in showing the proper ways to frame a building including roof work. It's a small but very beneficial investment.

Glen

 

[therealjakeg]

Is there a set of plan for this build or an inspector or a permit? If you're asking this how are you able to build all of this without knowing what direction you're headed? Just my thoughts overall. Overall I think you'll figure it out.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[crackerjack9]

I've found that the library has tons of books on home improvement and home building. Before you spend 30 bucks on a book from lowes, check out the library to see if they have anything helpful to get you going.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk