Grabbed another table-top drill press

[skeer]

So first off, no pics. I mean we all know what they looks like and even new they aren't special or pretty to behold, lol.

Anyway grabbed this the same day I picked up the Atlas but left it on the backburner until now. Same size, shape and build as the Chinese one I bought months ago. Only differences I've noticed are the column is 48mm OD versus 46mm, the head piece and platform/table are a wee bit thicker and the castings are cleaner, and the outer diameter of the chuck is larger by a few hairs. It doesn't fit any larger of a bit but it is a slight bit heavier built.
Oh the bearings.. the bearings are like butter. The others were, meh. Even after semi-re-packing them the spindle just didn't spin as smoothly as it should.

So I've begun swapping my TM motor and guts into the 'newer' one.

I'm taking this opportunity to redo the speed control box's mount, and Im thinking of putting the OEM pulley back on so I can maybe have better luck finding a v-belt pulley that'll fit over it's ibbed section.

So now, what to do with the old one? I honestly almost started setting it up like the one guy here who flipped his upside-down and made a sander. But Im starting to lean towards using the rest of that treadmills parts for a belt sander. There's always something larger that could use a smooth edge on it.

 

[Dan in Pasadena]

No pics? Never happened!

 

[RaisedByWolves]

No pics? Never happened!

Yeah, this is ********.

 

[Dan in Pasadena]

But seriously, I'd really like to have a good bench top press. Years ago I passed up a Walker Turner bench top at a garage sale. The guy wanted $300 and I should have negotiated it down a but and took it.

A lot of the bench top ones you see used on CL are Chinese. I'm not necessarily critical of all of them but I'd like something a bit more reliable.

 

[nadogail]

For all of my needs my Taiwan made drill press I ordered from an advertisement in a DIY magazine in 1979, has been adequate.

 

[Jim_No_Garage]

I keep my cheap Chinese benchtop drill press in the garage bolted to my grinding/polishing bench. I made a rack for all the wire wheels and sanding disks. It works great for grinding rust of stuff and then polishing as desired. I don't polish much but can as needed.

My standing drill presses are used for drilling only.

Cheers

Jim

 

[skeer]

So yeah you can tell, these two were likely made by the same factory. Maybe day shift versus Night Shift.

 

[skeer]

Still trying to work out the pulley situation. The OD of the ribbed section of the oem pulley is 1.010”. The TR motor shaft is 17mm so yeah.. if I had a working lathe I could expand the bore on one of the half dozen pulleys I’ve got. Lol

 

[RaisedByWolves]

So yeah you can tell, these two were likely made by the same factory. Maybe day shift versus Night Shift.

That has a cast iron table. These machines are much better than the ones with stamped tables and bases.

The real test is to extend the quill as far down as it will go and check the amount of play in it.


I had a cheap little one that had way too much play in the quill so I spent way too much effort correcting that. Now that I have nearly zero play in the quill Im still stuck with the stamped table and base.

 

[RaisedByWolves]

Still trying to work out the pulley situation. The OD of the ribbed section of the oem pulley is 1.010”. The TR motor shaft is 17mm so yeah.. if I had a working lathe I could expand the bore on one of the half dozen pulleys I’ve got. Lol

Pics?

Curious about the motor label and the pullies your describing.

Usually the flywheel and the ribbed drive belt section comes off and you can mount a standard pully in its place.

 

[skeer]

The quill and chuck shaft are tight on this ‘new’ one. But yeah didn’t think about checking when fully extended.
Both of these are cast iron bases and heads.. Interestingly enough the column on the new one is larger in diameter by roughly 1.75mm.
Yeah I have the huge flywheel removed, but finding a v-belt pulley with a 17mm bore has almost been impossible.

Too bad the lathe isn’t working presently, lol

 

[RaisedByWolves]

The quill and chuck shaft are tight on this ‘new’ one. But yeah didn’t think about checking when fully extended.
Both of these are cast iron bases and heads.. Interestingly enough the column on the new one is larger in diameter by roughly 1.75mm.
Yeah I have the huge flywheel removed, but finding a v-belt pulley with a 17mm bore has almost been impossible.

Too bad the lathe isn’t working presently, lol

That's going to be a tough one.

17mm is .669 and you're going to have a hard time finding a small pulley with a 5/8" bore to open up.

 

[skeer]

Yup, a guy who had commented back on my original drill press thread about how he used a pulley over the ribbed part of the oem flywheel. Of course I don’t think a person would want a drill press that keeps spinning for 20 seconds after power is cut.. lol.
However today I drilled and tapped an opposing set screw on the alternator pulley I was using to balance it out. I think it’s pretty damn good.

 

[TomC750]

Balancing the pulley seems like a worthwhile goal, but opposing set screws do not work well, they tend to loosen. Set screws at 90* is standard practice.

 

[RaisedByWolves]

Yup, a guy who had commented back on my original drill press thread about how he used a pulley over the ribbed part of the oem flywheel. Of course I don’t think a person would want a drill press that keeps spinning for 20 seconds after power is cut.. lol.
However today I drilled and tapped an opposing set screw on the alternator pulley I was using to balance it out. I think it’s pretty damn good.

That looks like you're best work yet!

As above with the opposed set screws, but if you could find a left hand nut to screw down on top of the pully to stabilize it....

How good of a fit is that pully on the shaft?

How do you intend to drive the spindle? Another grooved pully?

What sized holes do you intend to drill? Torque always has to factor into your pully pairing.

 

[skeer]

That looks like you're best work yet!

As above with the opposed set screws, but if you could find a left hand nut to screw down on top of the pully to stabilize it....

How good of a fit is that pully on the shaft?

How do you intend to drive the spindle? Another grooved pully?

What sized holes do you intend to drill? Torque always has to factor into your pully pairing.

Lol.
I do want to find a LH nut, the threads are still perfect. Better idea than set screws.
The pulley fits <Borat> Very nice! Zero play at all.
Yeah I’ve got the OG stepped pulley on the spindle, but I do want to replace it with a single step.
So the chuck only fits up to like maybe 5/8. But it’s rare that I need a hole larger than half inch. ESP in metal.

 

[skeer]

The LH nut is a 1/2” x 12.7tpi. Or possibly an M12 x 2.0. Although quick googling didn’t come up with either one.
Caliper shows OD from outside the threads at .495 so basically half inch. Threads match up with my 2.0 gauge.. I don’t have one for imperial.

 

[Snip's]

The LH nut is a 1/2” x 12.7tpi. Or possibly an M12 x 2.0. Although quick googling didn’t come up with either one.
Caliper shows OD from outside the threads at .495 so basically half inch. Threads match up with my 2.0 gauge.. I don’t have one for imperial.

Put a scale across the threads and count threads over to a 1" mark...
Could it be 1/2-13?

 

[skeer]

2.0 * 0.03937 / 1 = 0.07874 which (according to every chart) is 12.7 TPI. So, assuming most measurements on items sold are rounding up to 13.

 

[bb29510]

there a old william turner floor model at hgrinc.com for $27 but the shipper would hurt

 

[skeer]

there a old william turner floor model at hgrinc.com for $27 but the shipper would hurt

Went looking for that., damn son. I’d def ****** that up if I could.