Gravel for parking pad

[Cubby]

I have 3 utility trailers (4x4, 4x6, 4x8) and a canoe to store in my yard (yard is 75' x 180' fenced). I have decided to store therm on the south side between my house and neighbour. Right now its sod but with all the rain this year its been under water and the grass has died. I am planning on installing a french drain for the first 3 feet (to dry things up) from the fence and want to the use the rest to store the equipment. What type and size of gravel should I put down? The area is approx 12' by 20'.

Thanks.

 

[DirtyWhiteBoy]

I like to put down a layer of #2's then a layer of crushed with dust (not washed) on top of that. a little rain and driving on it and it will make a solid parking spot. The quarry can help with the amount needed.

 

[Bull]

I'd look into what needs to be done to keep weeds at bay, if possible. I have gravel for the area around my barn, put down two years ago. Weeds grow like crazy in that gravel, and I hate it.

 

[CraigFL]

Whatever you do, don't put down anything with rounded stones -- either underneath or on top. The stone should have sharp edges so it packs down well and solidifies.

 

[Uncle Buck]

If it is a distance from the entrances to the house you might consider asphalt millings, stuff packs good and solid and does act as a good weed barrier, the downside is it can almost have a bit of a muddy way about it at first. To the plus though, it is considerably cheaper than any rock if cost is a factor.

 

[Chris Adams]

Some thoughts.

I have 6000 square foot of gravel in my front yard, and about 5000 in my rear yard.
Gravel is lousy stuff, but it beats dirt/mud/sand.
Trailers HATE gravel. The wheels dig, when you turn you get divots, your truck will try to bury itself every chance it gets.
Walking across sharp gravel barefoot is not fun.
Dogs hate sharp gravel, except to dump on.
They will go a good distance to dump on gravel over sand, I don't know why.

It will settle.
It will take time to settle, and until it does it will be a pain to drive over.
Weeds do come up through gravel, but no more than anywhere else. You just see them more in gravel...
Putting a sheet of plastic down just means you have weeds coming through plastic. It doesn't seem to stop them, despite all the 'experts' suggesting it.
Dark gravel has less weeds, because it is hotter, making it harder for some seeds to germinate. That is only if you live where it is hot.
It will 'walk' into your neighbor’s yard, it will migrate to any concrete and become a pain to walk on. It will seem to actively seek out lawns and migrate there.
Driving on concrete with gravel on it cuts the concrete.

Spray Princep or one of the other powerful herbicides about once a year and you get no weeds, but you MUST follow directions.

If you have to walk in it, get small pea gravel. If you drive in it, get bigger chunks.

It's cheap.
It can be spread in minutes with a tractor, or you can give yourself and your friends heart attacks spreading it.
About ten bucks a ton locally, or about twice that delivered.
You can break a truck bringing it home yourself.
I've had it delivered I’ve used a 5 ton trailer and I’ve used a heavy 1 ton truck.
Cheapest? Contract with someone who owns a truck. Cheaper than having it delivered, cheaper than beating the tar out of your own truck.

 

[Cubby]

Thanks for all your replies. I will not be driving on it but rather moving the trailers by hand to the spot. So ruts should not be an issue. I will put down some good landscaping cloth to keep the weeds out and the gravel from sinking into the ground.

 

[babzog]

Thanks for all your replies. I will not be driving on it but rather moving the trailers by hand to the spot. So ruts should not be an issue. I will put down some good landscaping cloth to keep the weeds out and the gravel from sinking into the ground.

Hire a local with an excavator to take out the top 8-10" of soil in that area and level the area (or grade it slightly away from the house). Then, in with some base layer (pit run, 2", etc) as suggested and top with "shoulder gravel" - the stuff they spread on the shoulders of roads. The stone are about 1/2" - 5/8" or so, with the dust and pea gravel mixed in. It packs well in a relatively short amount of time and the base layer gives you solidity. The only thing that's effective against weeds is a twice yearly spraying with Roundup; plastic, cloth, as noted above, are not effective solutions.

 

[nate379]

I have D-1 for my driveway and it's almost like concrete. Wet it down, rolled it with a roller (whatever those are called) and that's it.

No weeds, no ruts, no sharp stuff

My parent's did their driveway in 1990 and haven't needed to touch it. Little bit of rutting the first 5-6 ft from the garage door and that's it.

 

[adams77]

What the heck is D-1?

 

[nate379]

I think it means gravel with no rocks bigger than 1", but I'm not positive. I just know that is what goes on driveways and under pavement and it's called D1.

 

[mdoolittle]

I use 1" roadstone. Packs great. Almost as solid as concrete. (well kinda) As for weeds growing through, there a alot of products out there to prevent this from happening. Each product has it's good and bad. I can't recommend a do all weed preventer as each case is different.
If any of you need recommendations PM me and I will be glad to help. (I have been in the Hort/Agron business for many years.)

 

[bgott]

Crushed concrete. If you can get it, washout. Washout is the concrete tailings washed out of the plant. With crushed concrete you have time to spread the stuff, washout has to be spread the same day or it hardens. You have to be pretty close to a plant to get washout, here in Houston they are always building and rebuilding the freeways and tollways so we have lots of plants.

 

[kwright]

I agree with the crushed concrete. I replaced the gravel in my two long drives with crushed concrete and couldn't be happier. Much less prone to wash out from heavy rains, and more resistant to week growth than gravel. Over time, packs down nice and firm.