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Grease gun. Loading it with grease?

NewShockerGuy

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Oct 12, 2010
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I have a grease gun that I just got, and a royal purple cartridge.

Gun looks like the picture attached.

I tried to fit the tube of grease in the gun itself but it wouldn't go in, the tube was just slightly bigger by a mm or two in diameter compared to the grease gun inner diameter. So I opened both ends of the tube then just kinda did a twist motion and the entire contents of the grease fell into the in the grease gun with no tube...

After seeing some youtube videos i see this is incorrect or is it? The gun has an attachment point that you can fill it using a big drum by sucking in grease? But did I screw it up for the next time when I wanted to load a cartridge in it?

Note that grease definitely comes out when I pump the trigger, no issues there, but I feel like it's going to be a absolute mess when I unscrew the bottom out. Is it even going to be possible to clean it or don't worry about it and when it runs out load the cartridge in the correct way (making sure it fits this time) Just wondering, or if I'm not limited to filling it that way but dumping the contents IN the gun tube?

Thanks,
-Nigel
 

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CNGsaves

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If you have cartridge grease gun . . . then you replace cartridge = = = no mess.

If you have old school loose grease gun, then you pull back plunger and secure it in vise fully retracted and fill up cylinder with loose grease. I had this job as kid for grandpa on the farm and long spatula works great to shove grease down in there and push out air bubbles. Once cylinder is full of grease, you screw back on the head and take out of the vise.

OP think you are over-thinking this !! ;)
 
OP
N

NewShockerGuy

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Welp then I messed it up I guess, because I emptied the contents of the cartridge in the grease gun I have... lol

I guess going foward I will make sure the cartridges fit in the gun.

Thanks,
-Nigel
 

Bondo

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Welp then I messed it up I guess, because I emptied the contents of the cartridge in the grease gun I have... lol

I guess going foward I will make sure the cartridges fit in the gun.

Thanks,
-Nigel

Ayuh,.... Ya don't remove the bottom cap, ya pull out the plunger, 'n it'll lock in the out position, by a flat spot on the rod, lockin' into the bottom cap,....
Then ya unscrew the top pump cap, 'n drop in a new tube,...
Start the pump cap back onto it's threads, Release the plunger rod, 'n retighten the pump cap,....
That should purge the air out, 'n yer ready to go greasin' again,...
 

Kracin

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eh, either way you are gonna have grease all over inside the gun. cartridge or not.



grease gun loading... pull bottom handle all the way out and lock it out, unscrew top. drop tube in with wide lip at the top. screw back in, release handle on bottom. pump vent button on top if you have one to let excess air out. pump the gun, done.

you can just pump up an entire gun. its not going to hurt anything. trust me, 2-3 tubes down the road and it's all coated inside anyway...
 

zmotorsports

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If you have cartridge grease gun . . . then you replace cartridge = = = no mess.

:lol::lol::lol: Now that's funny right there.

We have experimented with about every brand and style of grease gun on the market over the past 20+ years and I haven't found one yet that is "mess free".

Mike.
 

signcrafter

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I go through a tube of grease every two years or so. It's one of those things that I usually have to go to youtube for a refresher coarse before doing it so I don't make a huge mess. Just don't do it enough to remember the process. I know it's not rocket science but there is a process and when you don't do it but once every few years it can be tricky.
 

lilredex

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Easy.....remove the pump top, stick the open end in a grease barrel and pull back the plunger and lock the stem in the retracted position. Replace the pump top and push in the stem. No mess and no need for cartridges.
 
OP
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NewShockerGuy

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rofl welp I don't feel so bad then!..too funny!

I didn't even know the the top unscrewed. I unscrewed the bottom and was pulling and the damn spring was fighting me and I said damn this is annoying as hell!

That makes sense though about the unscrew top and then plunge it at the bottom.

I tried fitting the tube in and it did go in, however there was a metal ring at the bottom of the tube and when I just looked at it, it looked like it was bent, that's why I guess it didn't go all the way in?

I guess when the time will come to clean it I will just take it apart. I just greased the ball joints on my truck and at this rate I will have enough grease for YEARS...lol

Thanks for the help! Much appreciated! \

-Nigel
 

zmotorsports

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What's a good one for the home DIY'er?

At work the guys in our shop seem to like the Lincoln pistol grip style the most. We buy them from our local NAPA store, they are pretty reasonable. You can get them with the rigid or flex hose and we prefer the flexible hose.

I have a couple of the Lincolns at my home shop, Sears quick change style cylinder and a Proto loaded with various greases and they all seem to have their pros and cons. My biggest complaint about all of them is that the grease will separate from the carrier and drip out the bottom of the cylinder. I haven't found one yet that won't drip some.


Mike.
 
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signcrafter

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rofl welp I don't feel so bad then!..too funny!

I didn't even know the the top unscrewed. I unscrewed the bottom and was pulling and the damn spring was fighting me and I said damn this is annoying as hell!

That makes sense though about the unscrew top and then plunge it at the bottom.

I tried fitting the tube in and it did go in, however there was a metal ring at the bottom of the tube and when I just looked at it, it looked like it was bent, that's why I guess it didn't go all the way in?

I guess when the time will come to clean it I will just take it apart. I just greased the ball joints on my truck and at this rate I will have enough grease for YEARS...lol

Thanks for the help! Much appreciated! \

-Nigel

When you unscrew the top you put the cartridge in from the top. It will slide in and the metal ring will rest on the top of the grease gun body. Then screw the top on halfway. release the rod from the bottom so it goes in and pushes the air out the top. Then screw the top on tight.
 

sberry

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They make about 2 of them, if you are using it a lot get the better one, if its part time either will do and the tube will fit. Roll the end of it a little with your fingers.
I got about a bucket of broke guns, one of these days gonna have a fest and make all the good ones I can and toss some away. I use 2 types of grease, red and black and have a pistol and a lever for black.
 

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defektes

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To clean any mess there may be pull the plunger all the way out and pull hard it will purge any grease behind the gasket and clean the mess for you.

You may have been trying to insert the cartridge backwards, there is a aluminum rim on one end that is the top, so the other end (with the plastic cap, remove cap for install.) goes on the bottom.
 

justme-

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Yup - OP the issue with the tube is that you took off the bottom... the ring is supposed to be like that under the top.
Surprised the gun pumps without reversing the plunger seal. Usually the rubber diaphram on the plunger is cup shaped and is installed cup down (away from the grease) for cartridges and cup up (toward the grease) for bulk grease. If it keeps working let it go.
 

Tim37

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I go through a tube of grease every two years or so.

Oh how I envy you I go through a tube every time I pm a forklift and more if I have to replace a wheel or pack any other bearings. I have gone through a case of grease in a few days.

Lincoln air grease gun is my best friend at work
 

sberry

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I am on manual guns. I have one spot in the season I go thru a dozen or so tubes, if I was a daily greaser would have power but its just more stuff n the way for occasional use.
 

NUTTSGT

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rofl welp I don't feel so bad then!..too funny!

I didn't even know the the top unscrewed. I unscrewed the bottom and was pulling and the damn spring was fighting me and I said damn this is annoying as hell!

That makes sense though about the unscrew top and then plunge it at the bottom.

I tried fitting the tube in and it did go in, however there was a metal ring at the bottom of the tube and when I just looked at it, it looked like it was bent, that's why I guess it didn't go all the way in?

I guess when the time will come to clean it I will just take it apart. I just greased the ball joints on my truck and at this rate I will have enough grease for YEARS...lol

Thanks for the help! Much appreciated! \

-Nigel

Everybody has to learn sometime Nigel, no big deal.

Got a riding mower ? I'd imagine there are a few zerks that need attention before the start of the mowing season. I tried to hit mine but I realized my grease gun is empty and I need to pick up a couple of tubes. Looks like a trip to TSC for me.
 

larry_g

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Easy.....remove the pump top, stick the open end in a grease barrel and pull back the plunger and lock the stem in the retracted position. Replace the pump top and push in the stem. No mess and no need for cartridges.

I call ******** on this. I've filled many a grease gun as you describe and have never been able to keep the grease off the outside of the tube, so tell me the secret of keeping the MESS off the outside of the tube?

lg
no neat sig line
 

zmotorsports

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What's a good one for the home DIY'er?

Marc, I was working in the shop last night and decided to snap a few pictures and get model numbers of the ones I use and have been happy with.

Here is my collection hanging on the wall with an absorbant pad under them to catch the drips.
fjomf4.jpg


This is an inexpensive Lincoln I picked up from my local NAPA store. Works pretty good and seems to be a nice gun. I have Lucas Red & Tacky in this one and use it on steering neck bearings on motorcycles mainly. Seems like this one was around the $20.00 range.
t65xed.jpg


291dpck.jpg


This is a very nice Lincoln, model 1134. I think they call it their professional series pistol grip. It is a bit pricey running around $60.00 if memory serves. I have the lithium with moly grease in this one. I run the Valvoline that specifies for Ford applications with moly. I like the moly for ball joints and high static load bushings/connections.
im2noz.jpg


This is my favorite greas gun. Proto model JFC33HD. Very nice grease gun and a nice high quality very flexible hose. I think this one was around the $25.00 range but that has been a while. I keep my general EP-2 chassis grease in this gun. I run the Phillips/Conoco Multiplex which is an extreme pressure lithium base grease. Things like u-joints and most general chassis components with the exception of ball joints where I use the lithium with moly.
2luul8m.jpg


2njhuf5.jpg


And lastly this is one I can't recommend. I bought this one a few years ago due to it having a "leak proof" quick change cylinder as they called it and was guaranteed not to leak. Whatever!! It is made by Legacy and I have used other Legacy greasing tools and found them to be of good quality but I cannot recommend this gun.

It leaks around the quick connection between the tube/cylinder and the pump body.
fn8xz5.jpg


Leaks out the bottom of the plunger.
ngzfc6.jpg


Here you can see how much it leaked over some time into this little catch tray.
ogb8no.jpg


I hate this gun and hardly use it because every time I grab it I have to spend several minutes cleaning the body and then my hands before even using it. I actually retired this gun to my misc. seldom used tool cabinet a while ago after getting my Proto. I love that gun.

Mike.
 
Last edited:

lilredex

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I call ******** on this. I've filled many a grease gun as you describe and have never been able to keep the grease off the outside of the tube, so tell me the secret of keeping the MESS off the outside of the tube?

lg
no neat sig line

Guess it depends upon how far you stick the snout of the cylinder into the grease, and how sloppy you are. Sure, there is grease covering the threads that can be wiped way with your finger, but nothing like the mess you would end up with doing the spatula thing another was suggesting. Fifty years of this practice says it's not ********!
 

Dordrecht

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May 4, 2019
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Location
New Jersey
I had the same issue today. It turns out that the end of the grease tube has a flange on it that keeps it from sliding further in. When fully inserted into the gun, the plastic end of the tube appears to be the end of the gun cylinder, but nope. The tube sits flush with the outside of the gun cylinder which makes it look like part of the gun. On my gun the whole last eighth of an inch of the end of the tube, which on my gun is everything after the threaded portion of the gun tube, is the plastic tube flange. you should be able to pull it out with a pair of pliers. Suddenly the cylinder of the gun is big enough to accommodate the new grease tube.
 

PhantomEB

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Feb 6, 2006
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Medicine Hat, AB, Canuckistan
Marc, I was working in the shop last night and decided to snap a few pictures and get model numbers of the ones I use and have been happy with.

Here is my collection hanging on the wall with an absorbant pad under them to catch the drips.
fjomf4.jpg


This is an inexpensive Lincoln I picked up from my local NAPA store. Works pretty good and seems to be a nice gun. I have Lucas Red & Tacky in this one and use it on steering neck bearings on motorcycles mainly. Seems like this one was around the $20.00 range.
t65xed.jpg


291dpck.jpg


This is a very nice Lincoln, model 1134. I think they call it their professional series pistol grip. It is a bit pricey running around $60.00 if memory serves. I have the lithium with moly grease in this one. I run the Valvoline that specifies for Ford applications with moly. I like the moly for ball joints and high static load bushings/connections.
im2noz.jpg


This is my favorite greas gun. Proto model JFC33HD. Very nice grease gun and a nice high quality very flexible hose. I think this one was around the $25.00 range but that has been a while. I keep my general EP-2 chassis grease in this gun. I run the Phillips/Conoco Multiplex which is an extreme pressure lithium base grease. Things like u-joints and most general chassis components with the exception of ball joints where I use the lithium with moly.
2luul8m.jpg


2njhuf5.jpg


And lastly this is one I can't recommend. I bought this one a few years ago due to it having a "leak proof" quick change cylinder as they called it and was guaranteed not to leak. Whatever!! It is made by Legacy and I have used other Legacy greasing tools and found them to be of good quality but I cannot recommend this gun.

It leaks around the quick connection between the tube/cylinder and the pump body.
fn8xz5.jpg


Leaks out the bottom of the plunger.
ngzfc6.jpg


Here you can see how much it leaked over some time into this little catch tray.
ogb8no.jpg


I hate this gun and hardly use it because every time I grab it I have to spend several minutes cleaning the body and then my hands before even using it. I actually retired this gun to my misc. seldom used tool cabinet a while ago after getting my Proto. I love that gun.

Mike.

Never ever thought of needing multiple guns, one for each usual grease. Guess I need to up my game there!
 

sberry

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For home timers you can use 1 grease. I live in a brutal world and use 2. Red for ujoints, hi speed bearings and black for chassis, ball joint and steering. I will use red on that stuff too if I cant find the black. We using the black moly simply due to dirt, water nd s bit for hi loading, pins and bushings but its not that great a deal and doesn't mean a lot in thje auto world, not worth it to keep all the flavors.
I have a couple items that use a little, I use a case on one machine a year but about that much on the rest of it all put together. I agree it can last a car guy a long time. My Bud with auto shop used about a tube a year not counting wheel bearings.
 
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