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Greenfield 1/4 20 tap on eBay

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bubinga

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No joke. When I'm using a tap, I so slow speed by hand and take all day if need be. Breaking a tap can be a nightmare.
Oh,NO! I wont even Power Tap, like with back gear, I don't want to break A tap either :wtf: :wtf::shocking::shocking:
But HS Or HSS,, High Speed Steel, just refers to the metal the tap is made of, Not the operation, Is why I asked....:beer:
 

exmaxima1

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Oh,NO! I wont even Power Tap, like with back gear,

Jeez, I use my cordless drills for tapping holes about 99% of the time and never broke a tap. The only time I use the mill or lathe is for very large taps or into stainless steel. The keyless chucks on most drills will slip before breaking a tap. Hand tapping is time consuming and rarely needed for my applications.

Maybe you guys have never heard of 2-flute taps??
 

CallumRD1

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Colorado
What sizes are you tapping? I broke a 6-32 bottoming tap almost an inch into my work piece last week and it really screwed up my afternoon. I couldn't imagine power tapping small taps like that. They're just too delicate.
 
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theoldwizard1

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HS or HSS is just tool steel (such as M2) and it has many uses beyond drill bits.

http://www.wlfuller.com/html/steel_types.html

Key take aways. Lower M numbers are harder (M1 is harder than M2). Harder steel are more brittle an more likely to break.


Regarding power taping, yes some people do it. Fewer flutes means stronger taps, but then you have an issue where the chips go unless it is a through hole in thinner metal. "Gun" taps push the chips ahead so they can only be used on through holes.

You might see a machinist use a "tap follower" in a drill chuck or mill after making a hole. No power from the tool is applied. The tap follower keep the tap perfectly vertical and make it easier to start the hole square to the surface.
 
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bubinga

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Key take aways. Lower M numbers are harder (M1 is harder than M2). Harder steel are more brittle an more likely to break.


Regarding power taping, yes some people do it. Fewer flutes means stronger taps, but then you have an issue where the chips go unless it is a through hole in thinner metal. "Gun" taps push the chips ahead so they can only be used on through holes.

You might see a machinist use a "tap follower" in a drill chuck or mill after making a hole. No power from the tool is applied. The tap follower keep the tap perfectly vertical and make it easier to start the hole square to the surface.
Yeah, That's what I do To start My Thread.
Just in my Drill press or lathe, don't have a Mill (Yet....LOL)
 

PugetDude

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I use my M12 cordless drill (utilize the clutch settings, start low, work your way up...) for two-flute taps up to ~1/4" diameter in thinner materials all the time. Never had a problem.
 

6PTsocket

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No joke. When I'm using a tap, I so slow speed by hand and take all day if need be. Breaking a tap can be a nightmare.
HS or HSS refers to the alloy, not the function. Lower grade taps are made from carbon steel which is more brittle, does not hold an edge as well and is more prone to breakage. They are definitely only for hand tapping. Taps made for power tapping are are also often HSS but the flute design is different, though you can get away with either for hand use. Tap design gets a lot more complicated that is often discussed here Go to an industrial tap mfgr. site, like Emuge to see all the various designs

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rlitman

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HS or HSS refers to the alloy, not the function. Lower grade taps are made from carbon steel which is more brittle, does not hold an edge as well and is more prone to breakage. They are definitely only for hand tapping. Taps made for power tapping are are also often HSS but the flute design is different, though you can get away with either for hand use...

+1 Here, I'll note that a sharp tap is less likely to break, so on that alone, an HS/HSS tap will be less likely to break than a carbon steel tap.

As for power tapping, the flutes are usually spiral, for chip extraction. I have had no problems hand tapping with these spiral taps.
 
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bubinga

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You should see some of the rapid tapping operations on the CNC's mills where I work. :shocking:
Oh I would bet!
Difference between us "playing around" in out home shop, and a factory setting.
Factory setting don't have time to fool around! [emoji7][emoji7][emoji23][emoji23][emoji355][emoji355]
Those CNC mills and lathe are cool to watch in action!
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pstemari

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Seattle
Key take aways. Lower M numbers are harder (M1 is harder than M2). Harder steel are more brittle an more likely to break....

Say what? The number is just an identifier for the alloy and had nothing to do with the hardness. M1 is just an older formulation than M2. M35 and M42 are alloys with cobalt and are harder than the basic M2. There's also tungsten-based HSS alloys such as T15.

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