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Grinding Concrete - Removing Rock Solid Polyurea

dealingdave

Member
Joined
Oct 13, 2012
Messages
7
Location
SE Wisconsin
I just put the Rock Solid Polyurea coating (color tint added to the bag and then shake) this weekend. I applied the base coat as directed and than added the color chips. No additional clear coat was added, as the clear in the mix was plenty of shine for my tastes.

At first the installation seemed ok, but the next day I went out and saw two areasof a 10x10 area that did not flash over properly. One portion of it is flat and the other half is glossy. That does not include the roller marks and small overlaps that are not shiny. I could live with the small flaws, but half of the main section is screwed up.

I called tech support, they recommended that I sand the entire floor and put down the clear coat. Basically blamed me for the product not flashing over in the two sections. I am not ready for the clear after reading reviews on amazon. I don't want it not drying or feeling oily.

http://www.amazon.com/RockSolid-Floors-Garage-Floor-Coating/product-reviews/B004K2WSPE

Right now, I just want to put this behind me and start with something different. Maybe a good quality epoxy with a urethane clear. The polyurea is not for a DIY or amateur.

Does anybody have any advice on getting this back to the base concrete. The slab was new and the garage has never been used. Size is right around 860 square feet.

I read some good things about the diamabrush. Would the concrete prep tool or removal tool be better to get the coating/chips removed?

http://www.diamabrush.com/concrete_prep.htm
http://www.diamabrush.com/mastic_removal_tool.htm

Local rental place has the Edco grinder and contractors have the walk behind shot tool. The local guys I called all have different ideas and equipment. None were familiar with removing the RockSolid polyurea. They have all dealt with removing epoxies, paint or just sealers.
 
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my58

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Joined
Apr 12, 2005
Messages
238
Location
Ventura County California
You can use a pulman holt style floor buffer with a diamabrush scraper (home depot rents them) to remove the coating. about an 80.00 fix with plenty of sweat and dust.


or find a rental center that has an Edco with Dyma serts. (many size machines available) An Edco SEC-1 or 2 or an older general (single head machines) will handle the job nicely. Probably about 150.00 less dust and sweat.
 

retfr8flyr

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Joined
Mar 7, 2013
Messages
756
Location
Providence Forge, VA
I would second the Diamana tool from HD. I would first use the surfacer tool to remove the Rock Solid and then use the grinder tool and grind the floor. You can rent the buffer and tools by the day and I would think it would take at least 2 days to do a good job.

Then get some good epoxy coating from Alpha Garage, Legacy Industrial, or Garagefloorings LLC. These vendors can recommend just what you need to have a great looking floor the will last for years. I am extremely happy with my Wolverine floor from Alpha Garage.
 

LegacyIndustrial

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Joined
Jun 7, 2010
Messages
7,994
Location
deerfield, IL
Dave:

As you and I previously discussed. Because you are only doing a few small sections, buy yourself a 4.5" or 7" variable speed grinder, a diamabrush hand tool (with shroud) and go to town.

When done you will always have the grinder for other duties as well as the Diamabrush head.

If you rent from THD, you need the mastic removal head. The concrete prep tool may have trouble digging through the coating, especially if thick.

Good luck.
 
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dealingdave

Member
Joined
Oct 13, 2012
Messages
7
Location
SE Wisconsin
That is some good info on using the mastic tool first. The rep at Home Depot showed me the Concrete Prep Plus tool that is sort of new for them. It is supposed to be able to remove coatings as well as grind. Does anybody have real world experience with this model from diamabrush?

http://www.diamabrushbymalish.com/concrete-prep-plus.html

The rental place that had the Edco models did not know if the inserts were carbide or diamond. Is there a certain grit on the Edco to look for if I go that route? 20 to 40?

Scotty, I am changing my mind since we last communicated. The more I look at this floor, the more disgusted I get. The only way to really make it right is to remove the entire coating and start from scratch. The hardest lessons learned are the ones that waste an entire weekend of time.
 

LegacyIndustrial

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Jun 7, 2010
Messages
7,994
Location
deerfield, IL
That is some good info on using the mastic tool first. The rep at Home Depot showed me the Concrete Prep Plus tool that is sort of new for them. It is supposed to be able to remove coatings as well as grind. Does anybody have real world experience with this model from diamabrush?

http://www.diamabrushbymalish.com/concrete-prep-plus.html

The rental place that had the Edco models did not know if the inserts were carbide or diamond. Is there a certain grit on the Edco to look for if I go that route? 20 to 40?

Scotty, I am changing my mind since we last communicated. The more I look at this floor, the more disgusted I get. The only way to really make it right is to remove the entire coating and start from scratch. The hardest lessons learned are the ones that waste an entire weekend of time.

Sorry to hear it Dave.
You talked with rocksolid? What did they say went wrong?
 
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Cruzin90

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Joined
Mar 30, 2010
Messages
221
You don't want to put epoxy or urethane on top of the polyurea. They are compatible, but the polyurea is more durable than either the epoxy or urethane. If the polyurea did not cure, then (probably) either it was not mixed well or there was too much water in the concrete.
 
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dealingdave

Member
Joined
Oct 13, 2012
Messages
7
Location
SE Wisconsin
I talked with the company multiple time and got nowhere. I don't think Rock Solid (aka Citadel Coatings) actually cares. It is all my fault and is applicator error. She told me that I put it on too thick which caused it to go flat. I specifically remember that area, as it was the last one of the day and it was applied thin just like the rest of the sections that did not have a problem.

I will take blame for some of the roller marks that overlapped but I can't see it on the large area that is flat. Today a flooring contractor stopped over and confirmed to just remove it and start over. He scratched the flat area with his fingernail. There is no protection on the areas that are flat.

I am mounting up shop lights this weekend and will then start the removal. I will post some pictures once the process is started. Maybe my mistake can help one person from making the same one. Don't be cheap and buy yourself a quality coating.
 

my58

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 12, 2005
Messages
238
Location
Ventura County California

my58

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 12, 2005
Messages
238
Location
Ventura County California
Also with the edco shown above you should be able to do it in 1 day easily. If you are concerned about the epoxy being really difficult to remove rent the PCDyma-serts also shown in link above.
 
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