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Grinding floor before staining and polyurea clear

X_Grave_X

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Mar 16, 2018
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I am in the process of grinding my garage floor in preparation for staining followed by polyurea clear. I rented an Edco diamond turbo 10" grinder and dust collection system Saturday. After verifying that the diamond disc was flat, several times, I am left with patches of untouched floor. Would these untouched patches be ok to apply an etch too and proceed with staining, or should I go back over them with a hand grinder? I still have the edges/ corners of the floor to do.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Thank you!
 

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wgasa84

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Valley Center, CA
I am in the process of grinding my garage floor in preparation for staining followed by polyurea clear. I rented an Edco diamond turbo 10" grinder and dust collection system Saturday. After verifying that the diamond disc was flat, several times, I am left with patches of untouched floor. Would these untouched patches be ok to apply an etch too and proceed with staining, or should I go back over them with a hand grinder? I still have the edges/ corners of the floor to do.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Thank you!
Put a straight edge over the areas that are not touched by the grinder, do you see light? If not then the grinder is not sitting flat in the surface while grinding. If you see light under the straight egde keep grinding or you will see those areas in your stain.

Keep in mind stained concrete will have modeling to it.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

Shea

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I'm assuming that you are using a water-based or solvent-based stain/dye and not acid, correct? If so, then you can either hit those spots with an acid etch solution or use a hand grinder. If you decide to hand grind, I would suggest a diamabrush attachment. The areas in question are low spots. The blades are flexible and will hit those spot well without creating kiss marks. Using a standard turbo cup wheel will be tricky without creating kiss marks (small smiley faced gouges) against the higher surrounding areas.
 
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X_Grave_X

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I'm assuming that you are using a water-based or solvent-based stain/dye and not acid, correct? If so, then you can either hit those spots with an acid etch solution or use a hand grinder. If you decide to hand grind, I would suggest a diamabrush attachment. The areas in question are low spots. The blades are flexible and will hit those spot well without creating kiss marks. Using a standard turbo cup wheel will be tricky without creating kiss marks (small smiley faced gouges) against the higher surrounding areas.

Yes, it is a water based stain. I did try to get some of the low spots out and had a few kiss marks as a result. I then had to carefully blend those back in. This would explain a lot. I do have a gallon of surecrete scr surface prep/ cleaner. Thank you!
 
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X_Grave_X

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It is a dark gray stain, surecrete titanium, so modeling wouldn't be too noticeable. I'll check with a straight-edge in the morning after work. Thank you for the response!
 
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X_Grave_X

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Finally getting time to work on the edging.
 

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Armorpoxy

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Agree the 4" Diamabrush would a great choice for the low spots. The darker areas if not grinded when stained may look no so great as compared to the grinded areas, but it's a cosmetic issue, not a performance issue in our opinion.
 
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