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grinding tig tungsten

Dagny

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Got the primeweld tig welder set up and ran a few beads tonight. Think i'm gonna like it a lot. How important is it to have a dedicated grinder just for the tungsten I have 5 grinders so I thought I could just get a fine wheel for one and use that. Tonight I just used the cleanest one I have and it welded great.

I have a delta tool sharpening station that I bought for planer blades that has a pure white stone would that be better?

Kinda hate using the delta cause I'm pretty sure new stones are no longer made.
 
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Torque&Recoil

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Good question. I have a cheap Ryobi grinder dedicated to Tig tungstens, but does it matter ? IDK. Let's see what other more experienced users have to say.
 

GaryM909

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I was a career welder and I never worried too much about what stone I used on a grinder.
In my earlier years in the shops there was usually a bench grinder or two that were pretty much used for everything. My bench grinder at home gets used for whatever needs grinding, tungsten included.
 

loganb

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Following along to see what you decide as that Primeweld Tig is in a few shopping carts of mine until I decide I have the time to play with it if I bought it. The decorated Milwaukee M12 sharpeners looks slick but I expect to be way overkill for my needs
 

e015475

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I keep a dedicated wheel on my small grinder that's bolted to my welding table. I keep a drill handy and chuck up the tungsten to sharpen it. I've been grinding tungsten on the same wheel for 20 years and worn some significant grooves in it - probably should true it up. I usually sharpen the tungsten at both ends and just turn it over when I dip it. If I'm doing a big project or a lot of out-of-position welds where I'm likely to foul the electrode, I sharpen a few at a time and leave them handy on the welding bench
 

MJD1

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Belt grinder for me , bench grinder works but it's hard on the wheels.
 

sqznby

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While it's not necessary there are benefits, but for the hobbyist or home welder they won't be noticed.
Working in all kinds of shops only very few had a designated tungsten grinder. I've used drills but have come accustomed to use a pin vise nowadays.
It's how you grind/sharpen it that is more important.
 

Brianf60

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One advantage to the dedicated grinding attachment is you will get a consistent angle. When you are starting out it is helpful to control some of the variables so you can focus on the other parts.
 

T444e

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Feb 25, 2016
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I've trained myself to carefully dip the tip in my puddle on a regular basis, so I get to use it a lot.
I need to work on the careful dip, I seem to do the not so carful dip. Lots of practice grinding off the glob off the end.
 

Beerhippie

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I need to work on the careful dip, I seem to do the not so carful dip. Lots of practice grinding off the glob off the end.
I snap it off. Lots of experience will help in the careful dipping of the tip. Extra points if you can hit it with the filler rod at just the right time to make a really big blob.
 

T444e

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I snap it off. Lots of experience will help in the careful dipping of the tip. Extra points if you can hit it with the filler rod at just the right time to make a really big blob.
2% lanthanated doesn't snap , it splinters. Is there any other type of blob on tungsten other than really big, or is it just me?
 

Beerhippie

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2% lanthanated doesn't snap , it splinters. Is there any other type of blob on tungsten other than really big, or is it just me?
Ah, I use the 5% thoriated. Radiation is good for you!

I also like the little Dremel-powered sharpener as it's easy to rig a small piece of tubing to the opening at the distal end to attach to my dust collector/shop vac.
 

T444e

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Ah, I use the 5% thoriated. Radiation is good for you!

I also like the little Dremel-powered sharpener as it's easy to rig a small piece of tubing to the opening at the distal end to attach to my dust collector/shop vac.
Radiation is one reason I don't use thoriated at home (tried it at work on a previous life running beads just to try it) and the other is I find the 2% lathanated works well enough for me for aluminum, carbon steel and stainless steel. In a previous life I was involved with pipe welding projects on various systems with various materials and procedures. In the industrial world it's all about the approved welding procedure specification and the procedure qualification record and you can't deviate without requalification. Good thing I don't have to deal with that at home as I am not a weldor and I just stick metal together, sometimes better than other times.
 

welder4956

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I have a couple of portable Dremel type tungsten grinders with diamond wheels, but normally just use the fine grit wheel on the bench grinder. I have used tungsten ground on diamond wheels, belt sanders, side grinders and bench grinders over 40+ years and never observed any weld contamination issues with any of them. The more important factors are tip geometry and avoiding dipping in the puddle or touching filler to the tungsten.
 

rlitman

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Tungsten eats up grinding wheels and grinds much better on diamond. I put some really cheap diamond sanding disc type things on the side of my grinding wheel (under the washer), and grind my tungstens on that.
 

Beerhippie

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I have a couple of portable Dremel type tungsten grinders with diamond wheels, but normally just use the fine grit wheel on the bench grinder. I have used tungsten ground on diamond wheels, belt sanders, side grinders and bench grinders over 40+ years and never observed any weld contamination issues with any of them. The more important factors are tip geometry and avoiding dipping in the puddle or touching filler to the tungsten.
I can do both at once! Takes practice....
 
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MOS3522

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As above, dremel adapter is the way to go. Quick easy and precise.

The only caveat to using a regular bench grinder is to never put aluminum on the grinder wheel, it will mess up your tungstens if you sharpen them there (as well as destroy the grinder wheel). Otherwise it's no problem to sharpen an electrode on a general purpose bench grinder.
 

no704

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Radiation is one reason I don't use thoriated at home (tried it at work on a previous life running beads just to try it) and the other is I find the 2% lathanated works well enough for me for aluminum, carbon steel and stainless steel. In a previous life I was involved with pipe welding projects on various systems with various materials and procedures. In the industrial world it's all about the approved welding procedure specification and the procedure qualification record and you can't deviate without requalification. Good thing I don't have to deal with that at home as I am not a weldor and I just stick metal together, sometimes better than other times.
Out of curiosity I checked some with a Geiger counter. Just bearly above back ground. I would have no problem with keeping a pack in my pocket. Although I won’t.
 

GaryM909

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When I was a boilermaker welder I would take a pack of 1/8 tungsten and cut them in half. I would then sharpen both ends and if I didn't have anything to store them in I would just use my pocket. Sometimes they would go back in the box they came in. Then re sharpen the next day.
 

Beerhippie

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When I was a boilermaker welder I would take a pack of 1/8 tungsten and cut them in half. I would then sharpen both ends and if I didn't have anything to store them in I would just use my pocket. Sometimes they would go back in the box they came in. Then re sharpen the next day.
That's what I was taught to do. Unfortunately, when you're in the habit of "dippin' the tip", it doesn't work as the bulb of weldment on the old tip won't go into the collet.

I use a couple of Altoids tins for my tungstens. It keeps me from getting punctures and springing leaks when carried in the pocket. Fresh tips in the right pocket, used in the left.

Not that I do **** for TIG anymore....
 
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Fixr

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I grind my tungstens with this. I don't even remember what it's supposed to be for, but it's at least 5 years old and it was really cheap. I don't use it for anything else. And it's seen a lot of use, because with essential tremor, I dip a LOT.
 

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Dagny

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I played a lot this weekend on Al . 30 years ago I made some ladder hooks for the side of my step van 1x3 Al. tube I remember doing a lot of sharpening and getting a ball on the end of the tungsten this welder doesn't seem to do that.

You can tell when something ain't quite right and improves with fresh grinding but you can just keep welding with it messed up just don't look as good.
 

GaryM909

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I use a couple of Altoids tins for my tungstens. It keeps me from getting punctures and springing leaks when carried in the pocket. Fresh tips in the right pocket, used in the left.

Not that I do **** for TIG anymore....
I used ¾" copper pipe with one cap soldered on.
I don't tig much either and when I do it's just bench work in my garage. Still go through a lot of tungsten though.
I still have a steady hand but I can't see worth ****.
 

Beerhippie

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I used ¾" copper pipe with one cap soldered on.
I don't tig much either and when I do it's just bench work in my garage. Still go through a lot of tungsten though.
I still have a steady hand but I can't see worth ****.
I feel your pain, bro. Not only can't I see for **** these days, but my hands don't always do what I tell them to. A little shaky can make for some interesting weave patterns, but when your hand just freezes up....
 

sqznby

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I'm a dipper as well and seem to carry more tunks than most shops have in stock. I only sharpen one side for dipping sake, you get a big glob on it and it turns into a project to swap tunks haha.
Here's a couple of tunks holders I've used for a while. Pocket carry and bench holder. I used to carry them in my back pocket but got sick of getting poked haha.
I bought a couple of these Scottsman tungsten grinders quite a few years ago. Gave the one I used to a younger welder getting into the trade and decided to put this one aside because I don't think they make them anymore. It can grind 10, 30 and 60 degree is fully enclosed.
It's a beast though can grind through a tunk in no time flat. I stick with my 6" bench grinder for my tunks now.
 

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dscheidt

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I just try not to breathe the dust.

A surprising amount of pretty valuable Chicago lakefront is thorium refinery tailings. (Lindsay Light had a big plant that made gas light mantles, and thorium ore isn't very concentrated, so lots of tailings.) Dust control and radiation monitoring during excavation are complications for building there, and lately it's required exporting the waste to somewhere else, and importing new fill.
 

txvwnut

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I played a lot this weekend on Al . 30 years ago I made some ladder hooks for the side of my step van 1x3 Al. tube I remember doing a lot of sharpening and getting a ball on the end of the tungsten this welder doesn't seem to do that.

You can tell when something ain't quite right and improves with fresh grinding but you can just keep welding with it messed up just don't look as good.
Inverter welders don't usually ball or really like a balled tip, so I've been told. I have noticed a slight ball on the end of the tungsten after I've been doing some aluminum but not the usual looking ball from a transformer type unit.
 

welder4956

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Radiation is one reason I don't use thoriated at home (tried it at work on a previous life running beads just to try it) and the other is I find the 2% lathanated works well enough for me for aluminum, carbon steel and stainless steel. In a previous life I was involved with pipe welding projects on various systems with various materials and procedures. In the industrial world it's all about the approved welding procedure specification and the procedure qualification record and you can't deviate without requalification. Good thing I don't have to deal with that at home as I am not a weldor and I just stick metal together, sometimes better than other times.
Avoiding thoriated tungsten is a wise move. The half life of thorium 232 is 14 billion years, but the amount of radiation is very low for 2% thoriated electrodes, so low that it exempted from licensing or controls by the NRC. Still, it emits alpha and gamma radiation and the primary health concern is inhalation of the dust. Lanthanated or ceriated tungsten is a better choice to avoid health risks.
 

rpcraft

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Aug 14, 2014
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Waco
Got the primeweld tig welder set up and ran a few beads tonight. Think i'm gonna like it a lot. How important is it to have a dedicated grinder just for the tungsten I have 5 grinders so I thought I could just get a fine wheel for one and use that. Tonight I just used the cleanest one I have and it welded great.

I have a delta tool sharpening station that I bought for planer blades that has a pure white stone would that be better?

Kinda hate using the delta cause I'm pretty sure new stones are no longer made.
I just keep a flap wheel disc for tungstens only and never use it on surface prep. Also HF sells a really small grinder with like a 2 or 3 inch wheel that I used to use if you want something more stable and not risk chucking your tungsten across the bench or floor. Might be worth it to just have it handy on a bench top when you are learning because tungsten dipping is just something that happens, more-so when learning.
 

oldmachinenut

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I just got one of these today, $76.99 I haven’t tried it yet but it is very well made, the head is aluminum and it has good ratings.

 
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