Ground drainage

[boots89]

So I dug my trenches and two catch basins for my new shop. My ground is mostly hard clay. As I dug the down I hit small little veins that are seeping ground water through. My plan was to just cover up the piping with the clay that I removed. But the water seeping I’ve decided to put 3” of #57 stone under the pipe and basins so that the water can seep into the trench and basically follow the outflow piping. Or should I put perforated 4” pipe along side the solid drain pipe?

 

[Firebrick43]

Are you running the catch basins to the same place in the end? Many places this is illegal or you have to put an oil trap in line.

The best would run perforated tile down both sides of the building. This will dry out under the slab unless there is a spring. The clean rock if run to the tile trench will allow whatever residual water to run off if wrapped in filter cloth to keep it from plugging.

 

[boots89]

This drainage system is solely for down spout drainage and drainage coming off the hill/spring. The catch basins are going to be connected into shape of and L and drain into one spot. The shop will have its own floor drain system with a grease trap.
With this clay the water doesn’t leak down into the ground. But there are horizontal veins. So with the pipe going in I figured with the 3” stone under the pipe it will give the surrounding water a place to bleed out.

 

[Bondo]

Ayuh,...... I'd skip the solid pipe, 'n use perforated the entire run,......

It'll flow the same, 'n pick up the excess water along the way,.....

 

[Hilltopmasonry]

What’s your plan for for keeping the soil from clogging up the gravel thus clogging the pipe? If it is just running through the yard I would use hard pipe and use perforated near the building


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[pmiranda]

NDS (ndspro.com) makes drain bundles that are perfect for this. I plan on putting a line of them along the uphill side of my shop after the utility trench is done.
They are 5 or 10 feet long each, 3, 4, or 6" perf pipe surrounded by plastic fill and wrapped in cloth. Total diameter 6 to 15 inches. No gravel needed, just dig the trench, throw them in, connect them up, cover with soil and route the outlet somewhere you want the water.. either more bundles, a dry well, or a pop-up emitter.

 

[larry4406]

Day light the drain to the pond/lake in the back ground of the first picture.

 

[matt_i]

I'm about to tear out a corrugated setup where roots have infiltrated the pipe despite some sort of exterior wrap and blocked it with a giant 3ft-long clog of "stuff" from the roof.

The corrugated flows very slowly because of all the turbulence. And, I think its important to use something like a water level or laser level as the corrugated is easy to get dips in that catch fines. In my case there's standing water in the pipe all of the time, even days after a rain. (I dug out some soil and cut 3 sided slots in the top of the corrugated to visualize what's happening.)

I'm going back with 220psi Sch40 PVC which is difficult to find in 4" dia. Mainly for the crush resistance as I could potentially drive tractors and trucks over it at times. Its going to goto a drywell with 2-3 layers of non-woven silt fabric surrounding it.

Clay is notorious for clogging pipes with its superfine particles. I'd use the silt sock on any perfed pipe that was supposed to drain.

 

[spudley]

Well my setup worked a little better.

I used 4" perf filter socked corrugated pipe for drainage around my lake home(no gutters).
Recently I had to repair an area cut open by some imbecile that ran a gas line (me). Anyway after 25 years, the filter sock worked pretty well but there was about a half inch of silt in the pipe. Still flows fine.

In your case and in hard pan clay, if you use 3" of gravel under the solid, any water will follow the path of least resistance and if you're finding veins of water that means it ain't soaking in. With enough slope, I'd bet the water will drain to the outflow.

 

[greg13]

I would add a few surface drains also to remove standing water faster. My back yard is clay and perf. pipe works but drained very slow until I added 3 surface drains.

 

[theoldwizard1]

... I’ve decided to put 3” of #57 stone under the pipe and basins so that the water can seep into the trench and basically follow the outflow piping. Or should I put perforated 4” pipe along side the solid drain pipe?

What’s your plan for for keeping the soil from clogging up the gravel thus clogging the pipe?

Yep ! The ditch needs to be lined with landscape cloth. If not, over time the silt will fill in the area between the stones. Make sure to leave extra material. After laying down the cloth, add a 1"-2" of gravel (for adjusting the pitch), then the pipe. Cover with more stone up to within 3"-4" of grade. Fold the extra cloth in, and cover with top soil.

If you use hard (my preference) perforated pipe for the long runs, put a "sock" over it.

 

[Fatboy148]

Yep ! The ditch needs to be lined with landscape cloth. If not, over time the silt will fill in the area between the stones. Make sure to leave extra material. After laying down the cloth, add a 1"-2" of gravel (for adjusting the pitch), then the pipe. Cover with more stone up to within 3"-4" of grade. Fold the extra cloth in, and cover with top soil.

If you use hard (my preference) perforated pipe for the long runs, put a "sock" over it.

With this system, the pipe is just an open space in the stone. The water will flow through the stone and unless there is a lot and the water raises up to the pipe elevation, the pipe will not carry any water.

 

[theoldwizard1]

With this system, the pipe is just an open space in the stone. The water will flow through the stone and unless there is a lot and the water raises up to the pipe elevation, the pipe will not carry any water.

Concur, but in my installation, I would have water pooling on the surface ! No problem filling the pipe where it can move quickly. Just need some place for the water to go !