Grr-ripper vs. Milescraft Grabber.

[lardy1]

Do any of you use these type of push blocks? They seem very similar so I'm mostly wondering if one grips better than the other or if either of them grip worth a damn at all. Some of the reviews on the Grr-ripper report poor grip. I certainly don't want something failing partway through a pass on a machine.


Any input?

 

[mike93lx]

I don't run them, but I do use a push stick/block. I've found this style to be easy to make, comfortable to hold, and easy to keep handy. The provide a way to push, plus keep downward pressure on the work.

How To Make A Push Stick

Making an easy to use push stich from scrap plywood.

ibuildit.ca

This style makes me have no apprehension to running it through the blade. If they get too chewed up, I can either cut a new flat and hook on the bottom or just throw them away.

 

[seber]

Yesterday I was struggling to make a UHMW slider for the window regulator in my motor home. It is very small and not having a mil I was using the table saw to shape it. I made a push stick similar to what Mike suggested but with a flat plate on the bottom and hook on that instead of the bottom of the push stick. That allowed me to run the push body right through the blade along with the UHMW. Full control all the way. Easy to make, and just toss the cut up pad and make a new one next time.

 

[RTM]

I don’t have either. Couple of real low end plastic ones, one with a neoprene pad. And I make sacrificial where needed.

but I don’t use my TS much lately.

 

[uncwstudent]

I have the GRR-Ripper and I love it. It definitely is way more expensive than it needs to be but if it protects my hands, who cares about fifty bucks? What I really like is that it is well built and really customizable for whatever you are working on. I have the basic model and not the "advanced" model with all of the bells and whistles, but if you buy the basic version, you can always order parts to add to the Grr-ripper later.

If it matters to you, I believe that they are also Made in America and their customer service is top-notch.

 

[JimH74]

I also have and use the gripper. I like it for a lot of my work. Especially for narrow cuts. I also have a couple push sticks and they do have their place in my shop too. As far as the gripper, I had a question about it at one point, and called the manufacturer. Wound up talking directly to the owner/inventor.

 

[dscheidt]

I won't have one. Anything that's incompatible with safety equipment is a bad idea. These require using the saw without covers, even when the covers should be in place.

 

[mike93lx]

I won't have one. Anything that's incompatible with safety equipment is a bad idea. These require using the saw without covers, even when the covers should be in place.

Considering the vast majority of table saws don't have guards over the blade installed, I fail to see how a push block is a bad idea. I doubt anyone is removing their blade guard so that they can use a gripper

 

[rayik]

I have two GRR-Rippers and they are great! Use them to feed everything through the saw.

 

[Git]

I also have the GRR-Rippers. I like how I can set them up to straddle the blade when ripping narrow pieces.

 

[RonnieC]

I won't have one. Anything that's incompatible with safety equipment is a bad idea. These require using the saw without covers, even when the covers should be in place.

Well, not always. A lot of the ripping I do allows the full width of the gripper to pass between the safety equipment and the fence. Agreed that if you need the gripper to straddle the blade, safety shrouds need to come off but riving knife can stay in place.

 

[lardy1]

Trust me. I won't have to remove any safety equipment.

Appreciate you guys input. Nobody mentions slipping or losing grip over time and that really is my main concern. The Milescraft is considerably cheaper but no reviews on Amazon and apparently none here either. I like to buy domestic so I think I know where this will go. Thanks.

 

[rrich1]

Another vote for gripper. If the bottom pad gets dirty just wash it and it should stick again. I've had mine for years and never felt the need to clean it because of slipping issues.

 

[BukitCase]

I have one of the Grippers, but haven't used it yet- I've bought a couple different accessories from Miles Craft, (NOT their "gripper") not totally horrible but reminiscent of harbor freight's attempts on most things. Miles is now on my "no fly" list if I'm looking for something... Steve

 

[exmaxima1]

I bought a Grrripper at a garage sale for a few bucks but not sure how to use it. It seems to have a number of parts and adjustments. If I need to watch an hour of videos to figure it out I'll probably just stay with the sticks I've been using for decades.

 

[mike93lx]

I bought a Grrripper at a garage sale for a few bucks but not sure how to use it. It seems to have a number of parts and adjustments. If I need to watch an hour of videos to figure it out I'll probably just stay with the sticks I've been using for decades.

If it takes an hour of youtube videos to figure out a push block, using a table saw might not be a great idea.

 

[FTG-05]

I have the GRR-Ripper and I love it. It definitely is way more expensive than it needs to be but if it protects my hands, who cares about fifty bucks? What I really like is that it is well built and really customizable for whatever you are working on. I have the basic model and not the "advanced" model with all of the bells and whistles, but if you buy the basic version, you can always order parts to add to the Grr-ripper later.

If it matters to you, I believe that they are also Made in America and their customer service is top-notch.

I have one too - favorite tool to use when cutting with my table saw.

 

[Tergo247]

If it takes an hour of youtube videos to figure out a push block, using a table saw might not be a great idea.

That's pretty ignorant. These style of push blocks are highly configurable to be used in a variety of ways that standard push blocks are not capable of. The videos are super useful in understanding the assembly and use of these devices. The main point is that both sides of the work piece are supported both down against the table and against the fence without binding the blade. If one is too proud to be properly trained on a new safety device, maybe they shouldn't be near a table saw.

 

[Tergo247]

I bought a Grrripper at a garage sale for a few bucks but not sure how to use it. It seems to have a number of parts and adjustments. If I need to watch an hour of videos to figure it out I'll probably just stay with the sticks I've been using for decades.

I received one of these as a Christmas present and it sat in the box for a couple years. I didn't see the value of what appeared to be the world's most complicated push block. But I watched the microjig videos on a slow Sunday morning and I'll be damned if these things don't have merit. I'm in the market for a second one so I can more easily feed longer stock.

 

[Tergo247]

I won't have one. Anything that's incompatible with safety equipment is a bad idea. These require using the saw without covers, even when the covers should be in place.

I know this post is months old, but if I can find it on a Google search I figure others might as well. Anyway, I would respectfully suggest that you at least watch the first video from microjig that explains how theirs works. In my opinion having watched it leads me to believe that it's actually safer than a standard blade guard as it eliminates the risk of kick back when used as designed. I haven't had any occurrence of the blade burning the wood or kicking anything back, just very clean cuts with my fingers on the other side of a few inches of plastic at all times. No I don't work for microjig.

 

[mike93lx]

That's pretty ignorant. These style of push blocks are highly configurable to be used in a variety of ways that standard push blocks are not capable of. The videos are super useful in understanding the assembly and use of these devices. The main point is that both sides of the work piece are supported both down against the table and against the fence without binding the blade. If one is too proud to be properly trained on a new safety device, maybe they shouldn't be near a table saw.

You sound like a micro jig shill. Joined just to voraciously defend them?

So complex that it requires and hour of training? No thanks.

I fully understand how the micro jig works and also understand it is overly complicated, overly expensive and unnecessary.

Glad you like yours though

 

[WWheeler]

I won't have one. Anything that's incompatible with safety equipment is a bad idea. These require using the saw without covers, even when the covers should be in place.

You never use a crosscut sled? You never do dados or any other not all the way through the material cuts on your saw?

Using the Grr-ripper is no different than those type cuts. The push block itself becomes your safety cover for that cut. The Grr-ripper also makes cutting tiny little pieces super safe quick and easy that can't possibly be done safely if at all with standard push sticks.

 

[LeeG]

I've been a Grr-ripper user for several years. I use mine on both the table saw and router table. I consider them one of the best safety and usability investments I have made for my Unisaw.

Lee

 

[signcrafter]

I use the gripper and love it. I had a job a few years back building some custom bathroom stall partitions for a restaurant. These were all made out of wood for the "rustic look". Lots of fancy dado and rabbit cuts for joinery. That's when I picked up my gripper and it worked really great for those cuts.

As for the guard, I run my table saw a lot with the guard off. Once you start doing joinery and other cuts besides just the straight ripping the guard really doesnt play well.

 

[Tergo247]

You sound like a micro jig shill.

If it is so complex that it requires an hour of training, it is not as good as you claim.

I fully understand how the micro jig works and also understand it is overly complicated, overly expensive and unnecessary.

Glad you like yours though

I'll call out bad arguments all day long, I have no ties to microjig beyond personal experience with this product that I admittedly received for free as a gift. Something that requires training isn't inherently worse if it has added benefit, which this clearly does over a sacrificial push block. The argument you should be making if you are as familiar as you say is that these things are 100% reliant on their ability to maintain grip on the workpiece. And they grip great until they don't from saw dust build up, which isn't acceptable in the middle of a cut.

And yep, post number one. You have to start somewhere.

 

[Nutria]

Another inexpensive option is a Marshalltown red rubber float. Grips well. I routinely use a pair of these on the jointer and occasionally on the table saw.

MARSHALLTOWN 9 in. x 4 in. Red Rubber Float - Fine RRF94F - The Home Depot

Find the MARSHALLTOWN 9. x 4 in. Red Rubber Float- Fine RRF124F-HD, with 5/8 in. thick fine cell rubber pad. It is ideal for bringing sand to the surface from The Home Depot

www.homedepot.com

 

[signcrafter]

Another inexpensive option is a Marshalltown red rubber float. Grips well. I routinely use a pair of these on the jointer and occasionally on the table saw.

MARSHALLTOWN 9 in. x 4 in. Red Rubber Float - Fine RRF94F - The Home Depot

Find the MARSHALLTOWN 9. x 4 in. Red Rubber Float- Fine RRF124F-HD, with 5/8 in. thick fine cell rubber pad. It is ideal for bringing sand to the surface from The Home Depot

www.homedepot.com

That's a pretty neat idea.

 

[Nutria]

That's a pretty neat idea.

Not my idea though-- I picked it up from reading something somewhere.