Guilty Pleasure...Spray Paint

[Gore]

Ok, I have to admit that I am always intrigued by spray paint...rattle cans...spray bombs. Whenever I walk through my big box store I check out what's new...i.e. new colors, new textures, etc. I am always wanting to try something new...although admittedly I rarely get around to it.

Is there anyone else out there that enjoys, or utilizes, rattle cans?

With some of the new innovations, like 2k paint in a can, ceramic paints, epoxy paints, etc...I think it's actually possible to turn out decent products with them.

So let's talk spray paint. What do you use? What is the most durable 1k or 2k you have found? Post some pics of your work to inspire others.

 

[chilly460]

I personally dislike spray paints, they're usually an inferior product when it comes to durability, and it always seems when you get to the last half of the can they'll sputter or drip and put on a **** finish. I'd love to hear about better brands/products that work well.

I will say, Hammered finish Rustoleum is great though, I've had parts that were outside in all weather and stayed rust free for years.

 

[Supergumby5000]

I like playing around with Plastidip products. Its easy to apply, removeable, or it can be touched up.

I actually used Rustoleums version of the same product this weekend. Flexidip. It sprayed much lighter with more even coats than the plastidip. I had to do several more coats than I would have with plastidip but the final product came out nicely.

The hood on this sled used to be orange. This is kind of a test to see how well it holds up:

 

[Gore]

I personally dislike spray paints, they're usually an inferior product when it comes to durability, and it always seems when you get to the last half of the can they'll sputter or drip and put on a **** finish. I'd love to hear about better brands/products that work well.

I will say, Hammered finish Rustoleum is great though, I've had parts that were outside in all weather and stayed rust free for years.

I will say that you hit the nail on the head as to why I call it a "guilty" pleasure. I know that spray paint is not perceived as a durable product...and in most cases it isn't...but there are just soooooo many to choose from that it's like eye candy lol.

I did just complete a project that used Rustoleum hammered paint. It's a bit touchy as far as getting the color aspect right, but it looks great when it's done right.

 

[Al Bundy]

I personally dislike spray paints, they're usually an inferior product when it comes to durability, and it always seems when you get to the last half of the can they'll sputter or drip and put on a **** finish. I'd love to hear about better brands/products that work well.

This was true 15 years ago, but there are some really great products available now. One I've used is SEM for auto parts. The results are pretty astounding if you prep and spray it correctly. You can also get custom colors put in a can for you. This is an area that's come a long way.

 

[p_mori7]

Dupli-Color for a front & rear bumper covers on a bent Honda Accord I fixed up this past spring. Color match not exactly perfect, but a whole heck of a lot better than the scraped-up rear bumper cover. The front bumper cover is new, which I primed and also painted with Dupli-Color. Used their 3 step process. 1- Filler/Primer, 2- Color Coat, 3- Clear Coat.

Three sprays of primer followed by a light sanding & cleaning, Three sprays of Color Coat followed by wet sanding & cleaning, Three sprays of Clear Coat. The final finish is nowhere near as smooth & slick as factory, but looks good.

 

[Gore]

I actually did a deck lid on a Mustang using a custom filled can of base black from my local jobber, and SprayMax 2k clear. After cutting and buffing it was the best looking panel on the car.

 

[Richard Cranium]

So where do you get the custom colors made at a car paint shop?

 

[lilredex]

Here is a Snap-on hand box that was re-finished with a "Sunrise Red" rattle can. Quite pleased with how it looks.

I often use rattle cans for smaller projects. Some of the paint quality is first class.

 

[Schurkey]

Decades ago, a person could walk into a local automotive-paint store, and have them fill aerosol cans with real, live, automotive paint. In other words, custom-mixed high-grade professional-level paint...in a spray bomb.

Far as I know, that's extinct now.

 

[Gore]

Decades ago, a person could walk into a local automotive-paint store, and have them fill aerosol cans with real, live, automotive paint. In other words, custom-mixed high-grade professional-level paint...in a spray bomb.

Far as I know, that's extinct now.

This is what I meant, I don't think it's gone though...I asked my local jobber a couple of years ago and they were still doing it...don't know about today.

 

[duwem]

It can look great but as soon as you bump it it comes right off.

The primer almost always stays in place though, always wondered why its so much more durable than the top coat.

 

[machsnell]

I dont love spray paint because i feel like it is cheap paint that fades outside and scratches off with a fingernail.

However, I used whatever brand at home Depot of the epoxy apliance paint for a scratch I had on my clothes dryer. You know the kind of finish that is almost like a powder coat? Anyway I sanded gouge and rust out and taped closest edges on contour line and spray most of the top. It came out perfect. Tough as nails and very scratch resistant. First paint in a can I have respected. I wish they were all tough like this paint.


Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[Al Bundy]

It can look great but as soon as you bump it it comes right off.

That's the application, not the paint. No paint will stick if you don't prep the surface correctly.

 

[SmartShoe]

Something I do to help with rattle cans of paint (or plastidip) is to soak the spray can in a bucket of warm water for about 10-15 minutes prior to using it.

I find it provides a more consistent spray without the spatters and burps that occasionally happen with a spray can.

 

[csp]

I will say, Hammered finish Rustoleum is great though, I've had parts that were outside in all weather and stayed rust free for years.

The original hammered finish paint, Hammerite, is better.

 

[The Cobbler]

I love spray painting. I don't like painting with a brush or roller too much

 

[ambenz]

Something I do to help with rattle cans of paint (or plastidip) is to soak the spray can in a bucket of warm water for about 10-15 minutes prior to using it.

I find it provides a more consistent spray without the spatters and burps that occasionally happen with a spray can.

I am gonna have to try this! Can't hurt!

 

[Jess]

This is what I meant, I don't think it's gone though...I asked my local jobber a couple of years ago and they were still doing it...don't know about today.

My local supplier still fills cans but many paints need activator and that is maybe why not so many are using rattle cans filled with pro type paints.

While I was waiting for my order to be filled, the counter guy told me he had a customer order a batch of mixed and activated paint loaded into rattle cans. He got the cans, went home and painted his project and you couldn't tell it from spray outfit finish. The secret is in the prep work as paint won't cover up poor preparation.

 

[James-W]

I have a couple cans of spray paint, I seldom use them but I do on occasion paint something. A few weeks ago I painted my natural gas pipe a funky gray color.

Basically, I hate to paint. One of the guys I went to high school with is a painter (he owns a painting business) and I just have him do whatever I have that needs to be painted. Well, unless it a really small job that I can do in a few minutes. But any sizable job, I give him a call.

 

[sberry]

I use them on occasion.

 

[Gore]

lol...I'd say so

 

[aka Larry]

I prefer to use Dupli-Color products when I can, but they are pricey for rattle can projects at roughly $7-8 per can. I especially like to start with their self-etching primer on bare steel as it holds up very well.

Rustoleum's stuff only seems to work well if you have time for it to fully cure....like a week! Their Appliance Epoxy seems to flow out well giving a hard durable finish for a rattle can, but the color selection is very limited in that product line.

I also like to use the wrinkle finish stuff on automotive brackets, but it's hit or miss on the final texture, even when applied exactly the same.

I've also had hit or miss success with the final product using the hammered finish, but I really like it when it turns out well.

 

[Gore]

I prefer to use Dupli-Color products when I can, but they are pricey for rattle can projects at roughly $7-8 per can. I especially like to start with their self-etching primer on bare steel as it holds up very well.

Rustoleum's stuff only seems to work well if you have time for it to fully cure....like a week! Their Appliance Epoxy seems to flow out well giving a hard durable finish for a rattle can, but the color selection is very limited in that product line.

I also like to use the wrinkle finish stuff on automotive brackets, but it's hit or miss on the final texture, even when applied exactly the same.

I've also had hit or miss success with the final product using the hammered finish, but I really like it when it turns out well.

Agree with all of this...especially the hammered finish comment.

It's relatively easy to get the texture from the hammered paint, but getting the color variation is tricky, and often times it comes out in a uniform tone which is not as good of a look in my opinion.

Anyone have any experience with any of the Eastwood lines?

 

[Nexussian]

I know of two, maybe three (haven't asked the third in a while) shops that will load spray cans with custom blended automotive paint.

One of them is the local Napa paint center.

It's been a few years (2 or 3) since I had that done, it's expensive for what it is, which is why most people don't do it.

Biggest reason I see people disparaging "spray paint" are the comments you've seen here about it being "cheap" or "inferior."

Most of it is, when compared to automotive or industrial coatings, they have to be as they are manufactured to a price point.

As with everything, if you buy something on price alone, you aren't going to get the best quality product.

If you want a less expensive, but by no means the cheapest option, I've had good luck with Rustoleum Professional.

Locally it's available at the boxes, True Value and Ace, and seems to paint easier than other brands I've tried (better coverage per coat, seems to be less prone to runs and sags, dries faster, ...).

It doesn't compare to any good quality automotive paint, but nothing does.

Now if I could just find a source of it in "Light Machine Grey" for something less than a case.

 

[Gore]

...or hammered Verde Green

 

[Nexussian]

...or hammered Verde Green

At least that comes up as a 6 Pack, last I priced "Pro" in LMG (product #7581838) I was told the minimum order was a 12 pack or "case" as they were calling it (both Home Depot and True Value, others gave me a bunch of "you want whaaat???" ).

At least it looks like they still make it. I wonder if corporate knows why it's not selling?

 

[boomer12831]

I recently made my wife some wooden coasters using hardwood scraps from cutting boards that I make. I bought a can of Minwax spray poly to cover them and it was the best poly finish that I ever got. I won't ever use brush on poly again if I can spray it.

 

[rburke65]

It's been 10 years ago but at my local PPG paint supplier, they gave me factory matching paint for the dash of my '65 Impala in a spray can.

 

[Westly]

What is the most durable 1k or 2k you have found?

I used Spraymax 2k clear for the last coats on a motorcycle tank. It has turned out to be totally gas resistant, which was why I was using it and what I was hoping for. It will cut and buff to a real high shine.

It is nasty stuff with serious health warnings though. I sprayed it outside wearing coveralls and gloves. I held my breath while spraying and when I needed to breathe I would stop and walk a few yards upwind.

 

[Gore]

Agreed on Spraymax, I had great luck with it and it lasted for a few years...until I sold the car. At the time I sprayed it over the custom mixed can, which I assume was catalyzed, but I was a complete noob at the time and didn't ask. I have seen people on some other boards talking about using Spraymax over mail order paint cans which I have to assume are 1k products. Talking to almost any paint and body guys they'll say not to use 2k over 1k as the solvents will lift the paint. Has anyone had any success using 2k over 1k? I've got a few bike parts I'd like to paint and I can order my factory color in a spray can, but I don't trust 1k clear.

 

[aka Larry]

I hate to sound like a dumb ***, but what's the deal with 1K and 2K? I'm not familiar with that terminology.

 

[GTO]

It's been 10 years ago but at my local PPG paint supplier, they gave me factory matching paint for the dash of my '65 Impala in a spray can.

Most good paint stores will have this machine.You give them the paint in a can,they put it in a rattle can for you.
I did this for the engine paint on my collector car.

 

[Gore]

I hate to sound like a dumb ***, but what's the deal with 1K and 2K? I'm not familiar with that terminology.

It means 1 part or 2 part...I always assumed the "K" was from some deviation of component.

1K is non-catalyzed

2K is catalyzed and has the activator in a section of the can that usually has a little "popper" on the bottom to release it when you're ready to use it. Then I believe you have around 36-48 hours to use the paint.

 

[VoodooCLD]

Agreed on Spraymax, I had great luck with it and it lasted for a few years...until I sold the car. At the time I sprayed it over the custom mixed can, which I assume was catalyzed, but I was a complete noob at the time and didn't ask. I have seen people on some other boards talking about using Spraymax over mail order paint cans which I have to assume are 1k products. Talking to almost any paint and body guys they'll say not to use 2k over 1k as the solvents will lift the paint. Has anyone had any success using 2k over 1k? I've got a few bike parts I'd like to paint and I can order my factory color in a spray can, but I don't trust 1k clear.

I don't think it's a problem at all. High end base coats don't usually use hardeners, because if they're candy or metallic or whatever you can't sand them anyway. I sprayed a real high dollar House of Kolor Candy job on a bike one time. The gold basecoat and the red candy coat on top of that were just reduced with thinner. Then i sprayed an intercoat clear, which didn't use any hardener either. Then racing stripes, and finally sprayed the 2k final clear over it all. No problems.

I'd be careful mixing solvent based paints and water based paints that weren't catalyzed however.

 

[KenC]

It means 1 part or 2 part...I always assumed the "K" was from some deviation of component.

1K is non-catalyzed

2K is catalyzed and has the activator in a section of the can that usually has a little "popper" on the bottom to release it when you're ready to use it. Then I believe you have around 36-48 hours to use the paint.

Yep, the 'K' is from the German spelling.

One spray can version is a can in a can that separates the parts until they meet at the nozzle. But, I haven't seen one of those locally, only read about them.

 

[Dennis Leigh Henry]

Learned some really good stuff today... I've not used a ton of rattle can sprays, but sounds like the technology is getting better....

 

[Fishplate]

I've always found that huffing the gold paint gives the best buzz...

 

[Jeffksf]

I can't stand Rustoleum spray paint, takes way to long to dry, I prefer Krylon or Dupli-color.
Some times spray paint is the best answer to a problem for sure.

 

[Westly]

I have seen people on some other boards talking about using Spraymax over mail order paint cans which I have to assume are 1k products. Talking to almost any paint and body guys they'll say not to use 2k over 1k as the solvents will lift the paint. Has anyone had any success using 2k over 1k? I've got a few bike parts I'd like to paint and I can order my factory color in a spray can, but I don't trust 1k clear.

On the motorcycle I did the color with Duplicolor dark cherry metallic on the tank and side covers. Those touch-up cans from Advance. Then two or three coats of Duplicolor clear. They are some kind of fast drying lacquer. Then followed up on the tank with the Spraymax 2k clear, only for gasoline resistance. Everything looks professional and hasn't faded any in three or four years. For the sanding between coats and before polishing I tore off pieces of corrugated cardboard box for backing. When it's all wet it makes a really good backing that conforms to curves. For final polishing I used Turtle wax brand rubbing and polishing compounds, by hand. Really cheap! But looks fine.

P.S. It was recommended not to sand between the last coat of metallic and the first coat of clear. The tank had duplicolor clear under the Spraymax, sanded before the Spraymax as usual.