Gun safe.
- Thread starter onempty
- Start date
Stargeezer
Well-known member
Oh man. if you just need a place to keep hands and eyes off your collectibles-then any of them will just about do.
I needed a Great Safe and paid the extra bucks to get a fire rated safe and have it installed and bolted to the slab. I can keep media and documents and cash in there without a worry. Since I bought it, I had the same company move and re-install it. I like getting service with a purchase like this. A cheaper safe-heck just find a deal-like you said. Not sure where you live, but a trip to a gun show can get you started in learning about what a "good" safe is-depending on what you need it for and where you live.
I needed a Great Safe and paid the extra bucks to get a fire rated safe and have it installed and bolted to the slab. I can keep media and documents and cash in there without a worry. Since I bought it, I had the same company move and re-install it. I like getting service with a purchase like this. A cheaper safe-heck just find a deal-like you said. Not sure where you live, but a trip to a gun show can get you started in learning about what a "good" safe is-depending on what you need it for and where you live.
Last edited:
Blue Gator Six
Well-known member
Try Tractor Supply. I just purchased a Winchester safe from them. You can catch them on sale every so often. It is really nice. if you shop around you will see the value in this safe from TS. Good luck.
You didn't mention your capacity needs or budget. I sell safes and tell friends who looking for a decent "safe" to check out the Cannon safe from Costco. They run some serious sales and deliver them to your house.
Also check out: amsecusa.com. & gardall.com
You want an eye opener? Go to you tube and search for "security on sale"
Also check out: amsecusa.com. & gardall.com
You want an eye opener? Go to you tube and search for "security on sale"
I did a lot of research before buying my gun safe. The short version is, if you want to buy new, expect to pay big bucks for a good gun safe. Most box store gun safes use light sheet metal construction. I ended up finding a 10 year old National Security. It has a 3/16" steel body and a 3/8" steel plate door and I bolted it to the floor in a closet. It's not going to stop a pro, but it's way better then the junk at the big box stores. Check out this:
trbomax
Well-known member
The Cannon I got at TSC was a total POS. Door doent close without forceing it,was not painted on top,now rust on the sides is lifting the paint.It came w/o the shelf brackets as well. I called and e-mailed them 4 times with out a reply.
Save yourself some agrivation and dont buy a Cannon.
Save yourself some agrivation and dont buy a Cannon.
rkevins
Well-known member
I agree on the Winchester the only thing I did'nt like was the anchors that came with ours I think they are metric so replaced them with standard anchors, and this safe is also nice looking
ar2stp48
Well-known member
This has been discussed a few times. Do a search and read the earlier comment.
For a quick answer: Liberty safe with combo lock--no electronic
For a quick answer: Liberty safe with combo lock--no electronic
stroker-c10
Active member
I would suggest a Liberty or a Bear. Good luck either way.
mdbeck1
Well-known member
If you can afford it go with a Bear. I did and won't go back. I even had a custom size made (fits in the closet and under the shelf). That way when I die my son can have it removed and not have to remodel the house.
It's bolted to the floor with four bolts (at least 1" diameter and over 8 " long). I forget the fire rating but if someone wants what's in it they better bring a plasma or a tow truck.
Note: Have it delivered and installed. You'll thank me later.
It's bolted to the floor with four bolts (at least 1" diameter and over 8 " long). I forget the fire rating but if someone wants what's in it they better bring a plasma or a tow truck.
Note: Have it delivered and installed. You'll thank me later.
Guns R Tools
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 23, 2011
- Messages
- 257
AngelaJohan
New member
aha! I do agree with you @mdbeck1! its a awesome plan. I also try to follow you. Thanks.
+ 1 for Sturdy and they ship so you do not have to be in California.
Cyberbear
Well-known member
Purchased mine years ago from Homeland Security in Whittier, Calif. Decent price, looks good and they deliver and install it where you want it. Over the years I also acquired a Mosler red label two door jewelry safe from a jewelry store gone out of business for $100.00 because they thought it was too heavy to easily move, but was no problem with pallet jack and a small trailer. Also have three 30" tall antique cast iron jamb safes that are great for the small stuff we all collect over the years.
ez-duzit
Well-known member
Bought mine, used, off c/l--$350.
Jay Sco
Well-known member
I would NOT get one from HF, might as well get a file cabinet. Go to a safe store or gun show. Another Liberty owner here.
66BulldogGS
Member
I was looking at the Winchester pretty hard and then decided I liked the Liberty better, so I went that route. Just seemed to be better built and I like the door organizer better. Been great so far.
JayCrash450
Active member
Wow. Many things to consider when talking about a "gun safe". I'll save the lecture but many gun safe are little more than 12-16 ga. Sheet metal with a few layers of drywall for "fire resistance". These are called residential security containers and offer ok protection for most valueables. Don't put too much faith in their claimed fire resistance, even top quality commercial safes have trouble achieving realistic protection from fires. Many of your large safe companies that make "gun safes" safes are very equal in this regard. Liberty, canon, Winchester, etc. take your pick they're all not too far apart in terms of construction and quality. Most use off the shelf locks from S&G or lagard so it's a push there. My dad has had a canon with an electronic S&G for at least 20 years and has surprisingly been fine. Even survived a smash and grab burglar who didn't it even look at it twice.
I like amsec line of safes starting at the bf series, sturdy makes some nice stuff that's a little more protective than your average gun safe.
If you want actual security, look for a real safe with proper UL listings, either a tl-15 or tl-30. The down side is they are heavy and difficult to move. I lucked out and found a knight tl-15 on cl that has an actual fire rating and cost me $300. The safe is a composite construction with the outer body made of 1" plate and the door made of 1.5" plate. It weighs 4,100 lbs. it is a commercial safe that I made into a gun safe. Built a nice oak interior with racks and a cabinet inside. Ran power in it and lighting. It is very nice now and including the cost to move cost me $700. A similar brown or graffunder of this size would run $8,000-$12,000 new.
Bottom line is stay away from big box stores like the h depot, walmart. For most people I simply suggest finding a canon, liberty, Winchester that has the features you want for a fair price and you won't go wrong. Keep in mind even these companies have different lines of safes with vastly different quality of construction. I have heard good things about the rhino carried through costco. When it comes to safes and buying new you get what you pay for and there are no two ways about it.
People will tell you to stay away from certain brands but that can be true of any manufacturer that puts out a lemon every once and while. One thing you can do is go to your local safe dealer and literally open/close some doors, turn some dials and kick the tires if you will. Quickly you will begin to feel the difference between a decent made safe and a poor one. Especially important is how it relates to the linkage in the door. Try out a good quality amsec, brown, graffunder then go to Home Depot, yank on the handle of that cheap canon safari and you will feel and hear the difference.
Btw, many craigslist deals pop up with a heavy commercial safe be a use people don't want to move them. If you're planning on staying at your house for a long time and will be satisfied with it's location the. I wouldnt hesitate to pick up one of those monsters, I did and couldn't be happier with the security and piece of mind. Good luck in your search!
I like amsec line of safes starting at the bf series, sturdy makes some nice stuff that's a little more protective than your average gun safe.
If you want actual security, look for a real safe with proper UL listings, either a tl-15 or tl-30. The down side is they are heavy and difficult to move. I lucked out and found a knight tl-15 on cl that has an actual fire rating and cost me $300. The safe is a composite construction with the outer body made of 1" plate and the door made of 1.5" plate. It weighs 4,100 lbs. it is a commercial safe that I made into a gun safe. Built a nice oak interior with racks and a cabinet inside. Ran power in it and lighting. It is very nice now and including the cost to move cost me $700. A similar brown or graffunder of this size would run $8,000-$12,000 new.
Bottom line is stay away from big box stores like the h depot, walmart. For most people I simply suggest finding a canon, liberty, Winchester that has the features you want for a fair price and you won't go wrong. Keep in mind even these companies have different lines of safes with vastly different quality of construction. I have heard good things about the rhino carried through costco. When it comes to safes and buying new you get what you pay for and there are no two ways about it.
People will tell you to stay away from certain brands but that can be true of any manufacturer that puts out a lemon every once and while. One thing you can do is go to your local safe dealer and literally open/close some doors, turn some dials and kick the tires if you will. Quickly you will begin to feel the difference between a decent made safe and a poor one. Especially important is how it relates to the linkage in the door. Try out a good quality amsec, brown, graffunder then go to Home Depot, yank on the handle of that cheap canon safari and you will feel and hear the difference.
Btw, many craigslist deals pop up with a heavy commercial safe be a use people don't want to move them. If you're planning on staying at your house for a long time and will be satisfied with it's location the. I wouldnt hesitate to pick up one of those monsters, I did and couldn't be happier with the security and piece of mind. Good luck in your search!
Makoto
Well-known member
if you want a REAL safe instead of a thin metal box that looks secure (but can be hacked into with an axe) you need to buy a fort knox safe and stay away from stores like academy, costco, and anything that isn't a real security store.
Find a local dealer for Fort Knox safes, buy it, and enjoy the lifetime no questions asked warranty
If you think of it like an investment you won't mind spending a couple grand on a good safe.
Find a local dealer for Fort Knox safes, buy it, and enjoy the lifetime no questions asked warranty
If you think of it like an investment you won't mind spending a couple grand on a good safe.DpSyChO
Well-known member
I have a Liberty that was purchased about 4 years ago. One of my selling points was made in the USA.
I noticed my last visit to Gander Mountain that they carried a Liberty model that seemed to be priced a little lower than I was expecting and was a model not available when I purchased mine. I looked it over and noticed it was an import but the quality seemed better than average compared to some imports that I'd looked at. All Cannon and Winchester models that I looked at at the time were import. If you go with a Liberty, be aware they have at least one model (at least the one I saw at Gander Mountain) that is an import if COO matters to you.
.
I noticed my last visit to Gander Mountain that they carried a Liberty model that seemed to be priced a little lower than I was expecting and was a model not available when I purchased mine. I looked it over and noticed it was an import but the quality seemed better than average compared to some imports that I'd looked at. All Cannon and Winchester models that I looked at at the time were import. If you go with a Liberty, be aware they have at least one model (at least the one I saw at Gander Mountain) that is an import if COO matters to you.
.
trainman1385
Well-known member
Go with liberty they are made in my home town
skyking
Well-known member
Cut off saws and plasma cutters go through them all. Quick and easy.
NHBandit
Well-known member
Don't buy a $300 "safe" for a $20,000 gun collection. If you absolutely have to go cheap I suggest camouflage rather than a safe that a 12 year old can break into in 10 minutes. I don't mean the finish. I mean something that dosn't look like a gun safe and might as well have a neon sign that says "all the good stuff is in here". A vintage Coke machine converted into a safe for example. Here is a great video on the differences between a great safe and a cheap safe. Warning it is a bit long.
Last edited:
Makoto
Well-known member
some way quicker than others. a quality safe will require quality tools to get into. a crappy one will just need enough time and a hammer.
ar2stp48
Well-known member
Seems many brands have introduced a entry level or lower priced safe. My choice when thread first appeared was Liberty and I will stick with that choice, or suggestion. And I have worked on a number of different safes in the past couple of years
Nearly all use a S/G or LaGard group 2 lock; both are excellent locks. Dial or manual lock is the best choice. Again in the last two years, I have had no calls for problems with dial locks; but several with the e-locks. Had to open a Cannon with LaGard e-lock when the owner changed the battery and was suddenly locked out; no code would open the lock--not the original, owners, or any factory setting. Think $300+ to have your safe opened because of a lock problem
Changed the combination on a Fort Knox with a S/G lock last week. I was very disappointed in the inner construction. Hype sells and adds $$$
I will continue to use my Mosler--large double door, weighs 2K+ pounds, walls 6" thick (and not sheetrock ! ), with 5 number Yale combination lock. Paid $50 when a furniture store was going out of business
Nearly all use a S/G or LaGard group 2 lock; both are excellent locks. Dial or manual lock is the best choice. Again in the last two years, I have had no calls for problems with dial locks; but several with the e-locks. Had to open a Cannon with LaGard e-lock when the owner changed the battery and was suddenly locked out; no code would open the lock--not the original, owners, or any factory setting. Think $300+ to have your safe opened because of a lock problem
Changed the combination on a Fort Knox with a S/G lock last week. I was very disappointed in the inner construction. Hype sells and adds $$$
I will continue to use my Mosler--large double door, weighs 2K+ pounds, walls 6" thick (and not sheetrock ! ), with 5 number Yale combination lock. Paid $50 when a furniture store was going out of business
n240sxfnatic
Member
- Joined
- Aug 5, 2012
- Messages
- 15
This. This gives you the thickest steel for door and sides and is a heck of a deal. Ordering one this summer.
nti06
Well-known member
A safe with a good fire rating is very important to protect whats inside. Hiding that safe where it can't be found during a break in is the best measure of security ever.
Iggi
Well-known member
80% of what is sold as gun safes are thin gauge junk. If the safe does not have a TL rating, then it is not worthy of protecting your weapons. Research and find out what constitutes a quality safe. Jewelers do not buy their safes at a retail store.
TheGunCollector
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2009
- Messages
- 275
Sturdy is good for the money. Less than that, they're glorified storage containers.
National Security is the best...a little nicer the fort knox...I bought two of them about 12 years ago had no issues. Both are 40 gun safes ( I pack about 60 in one and about 15 in the other ( 50's and 408's) empty they weigh in about 1300lbs and the steel plate on the front door is 1" thick also have a 1638 degree 2 hour burn rate and glass plate in the door. The thing to check on a safe is door thickness...and are there pins all the way around...really you get what you pay for....I think mine ran about 4500ea back then so I can image what they are now...but that is about the best safe that I found. I almost bought a pair of fort knox safes but the door thickness was a bit thinner....
Another +1 for Sturdy Safe. I am very happy with mine. Check out their videos on youtube.
Angelfire
Well-known member
I've seen too many stories of homeowners who put their safes in their garage only to find the thieves broke into the safe using the homeowners very own tools!
Check into Steelwater Safes for a gun-specific safe. They aren't made in the US, but the specs are much higher than comparably-priced Libertys, from my research. Good reviews too.
If your safe doesn't have to be billed as a "gun safe", check out Craigslist. You can find some really badass safes, like from closed businesses, for almost nothing. I saw a large 3500 pound safe a few months ago for $500. I couldn't get movers lined up in time, or I would have snagged it.
If your safe doesn't have to be billed as a "gun safe", check out Craigslist. You can find some really badass safes, like from closed businesses, for almost nothing. I saw a large 3500 pound safe a few months ago for $500. I couldn't get movers lined up in time, or I would have snagged it.
BellyUpFish
Well-known member
Whatever you do, get something..
Check out AmSec, like someone else posted. Skip the big box stores. Skip the electronic keypad.
BOLT IT DOWN. I cannot state that enough. If it can be moved, it will be.
Contrary to what a lot of people think, hinges on the outside aren't usually a bad thing. If there are bolts locking the door all the way around the inside, it doesn't matter if the hinges get cut off, the door still isn't coming off. Plus, exterior hinges allow the door to be swung open more giving you easier access.
Make sure there are bolts all the way around the inside. If one side can be pryed
on to pop the door out, it doesn't matter how big or heavy the safe is.
A couple of examples I've personally dealt with -
This is a huge Canon safe. No exterior hinges, and hardly any bolts around the door. As you can see, one side was pryed on and cut on and the door was completely removed. Minimal work for such a heavy and expensive safe.
This one is a Winchester. Heavier gauge steel. Better door. If it had been bolted down, I suspect the owner would still have it's contents. But, it was removed from the house, where it could be worked on at their leisure.
It's also one of the many reasons I say skip the electronic keypad. Had there been anything left in it, the door might have been able to be opened for easier access with a dial. Now that the keypad is broken off, it's not so easy.. Not to mention batteries dying, malfunctions, etc...
BTW, both of these safes were removed from the house they were in before they were broken into.
BOLT IT DOWN. I cannot state that enough. If it can be moved, it will be.
Contrary to what a lot of people think, hinges on the outside aren't usually a bad thing. If there are bolts locking the door all the way around the inside, it doesn't matter if the hinges get cut off, the door still isn't coming off. Plus, exterior hinges allow the door to be swung open more giving you easier access.
Make sure there are bolts all the way around the inside. If one side can be pryed
on to pop the door out, it doesn't matter how big or heavy the safe is.
A couple of examples I've personally dealt with -
This is a huge Canon safe. No exterior hinges, and hardly any bolts around the door. As you can see, one side was pryed on and cut on and the door was completely removed. Minimal work for such a heavy and expensive safe.
This one is a Winchester. Heavier gauge steel. Better door. If it had been bolted down, I suspect the owner would still have it's contents. But, it was removed from the house, where it could be worked on at their leisure.
It's also one of the many reasons I say skip the electronic keypad. Had there been anything left in it, the door might have been able to be opened for easier access with a dial. Now that the keypad is broken off, it's not so easy.. Not to mention batteries dying, malfunctions, etc...
BTW, both of these safes were removed from the house they were in before they were broken into.
Flivver250
Well-known member
I won't add to the good advice you already got for brands other than to say, buy it bigger than you think you need. Home security alarms are good, German Shepards help. Bolt it down.
galute
Well-known member
I've got a Winchester safe that I bought from a safe dealer before Tractor Supply started selling them. It's a good quality safe for it's intended purpose. To keep my grandkids and their buddie's safe when I ain't around. If a theif wants in it I couldn't keep em out no matter the brand with all the power tools, torches, welders, big hammers and pry bars around my place. If you want your stuff to be safe, get a good insurance policy. If my guns get stolen or burned I'm just gonna call the insurance company and say, " hey yall's guns burned up, please send more. Thank you". Then I will call Winchester and say " your safe burned up, when can I expect the replacement?.
Last edited:
98ramtough
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 13, 2013
- Messages
- 64
I think bolting them down helps a bunch. I personally don't have any guns that can't be replaced by insurance, so I just have a 500lb costco version bolted to the floor. Could someone get in? Sure they could. For me it was more to keep them away from the kids. I think with portable angle grinders etc they are all easy to get into now. Might as well get a cheaper one, bolt it down real good and hope for the best. I like the electronic keypad so if I need to get into it quick I can. Unfortunately with little babies I can't keep a loaded shotgun next to the bed anymore, and if someone breaks in, its not the handgun I really want..... I want the Winchester SX3 loaded to the gillz with the plug out!