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gunk in mc fuel tank

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knobby

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down by the river under a Jeep
Dealing with a motorcycle (suz hayabusa) fuel tank that has been stored for a few years with gas in it
Emptied out the gas and now left with a tank that is coated with a thick layer of gunky brown residue but no rust
Fuel pump is tank mounted
thinking that rinsing out the tank with kerosene as the best solution does anyone have any better ideas and should I remove the fuel pump and clean it as well?
anyone else ever deal with a similar problem and if you did what worked?
thanks in advance folks
 
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JAKE-THE-TOOL-MAN

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check out Kreem products, they have cleaners and rinse kits that will leave the inside of your tank spotless. I used their sealer kit on a 1974 KX125 tank that was rusted and gunked up like yours, the cleaner made easy work of it.
 
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Dust Devil

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If you decide to pull the pump off get a new gasket before you even bother to start...

I would go for a new fuel filter and fuel regulator while you are at it. Regulator failure is what I see failing on FI systems. Do spark plugs since you have the tank off.

Carb cleaner will cut the varnish so will contact cleaner.

This stuff really eats up the varnish, but it wastes any rubber it touches.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012TWXEE/?tag=atomicindus08-20
 
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David Jackson

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JAKE-THE-TOOL-MAN said:
check out Kreem products, they have cleaners and rinse kits that will leave the inside of your tank spotless. I used their sealer kit on a 1974 KX125 tank that was rusted and gunked up like yours, the cleaner made easy work of it.
Click to expand...

They have a sealer too. I have had success with it; but that was in the days before fuel pumps so take pump out etc. Maybe replace it? Is there a way to test it?
 
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firebox40dash5

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Beware of Kreem. I've heard (and seen) horror stories of the sealer failing and jacking up EVERYTHING. It might save a really rusted tank, but I wouldn't touch it for anything else. Tanks are too damn expensive to risk ruining one with a coating that flakes off.

I'd make a block off plate for the pump, throw your nasty **** of choice in and clean it good. A pump is another item waaaaay to expensive to risk on a bike.
 
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JAKE-THE-TOOL-MAN

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firebox40dash5 said:
Beware of Kreem. I've heard (and seen) horror stories of the sealer failing and jacking up EVERYTHING. It might save a really rusted tank, but I wouldn't touch it for anything else. Tanks are too damn expensive to risk ruining one with a coating that flakes off.

I'd make a block off plate for the pump, throw your nasty **** of choice in and clean it good. A pump is another item waaaaay to expensive to risk on a bike.
Click to expand...

Kreem sells just the cleaning supplies, you don't have to use the sealer.
 
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kelpaso1

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Not sure if this would work, but, filling it half way with vinegar and a bunch of small nuts and bolts inside? Of course block all openings. Then swish and shake the tank every hour or two for a day or two the empty and rinse and dry.:dunno:
 
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justme-

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Or use small clean (washed) stones in the tank and shake it around. It's an ol'timers trick for working down the rust that formed in cycle tanks back in the day. Works pretty good too ;)
 
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2oolhound

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It sounds like ethanol damage. Ethanol in fuel will eat just about anything. What ever protective coating the tank had didn't stand up and has broken down. Ethanol will eat fuel lines and carbs too.

Here in Canada Chevron has the regular 3 grades of gas and a 4th grade that is ethanol free. There is a web page devoted to listing gas stations that have ethanol free fuels in North America. Google ethanol free fuels to find it.
 
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bwringer

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Whatever you do, do NOT dump any Kreem products in there. Kreem is evil, useless krap. If you do need tank cleaning or coating supplies, get some Por15.

But since there's no rust, you really don't need to fart around with acids and such.


Yes, you'll want to remove the fuel pump, disassemble, and clean things up. Things will be just as icky inside the fuel pump, and you don't want that **** in the injectors.

To clean up the tank, I'd get a bottle or two of fuel system cleaner (Berrymans is a good one) -- it's made to dissolve this type of stuff. Get the other rubber or plastic bits out of the way, and don't get it on the paint.
 
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Dust Devil

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bwringer said:
Whatever you do, do NOT dump any Kreem products in there. Kreem is evil, useless krap. If you do need tank cleaning or coating supplies, get some Por15.

But since there's no rust, you really don't need to fart around with acids and such.


Yes, you'll want to remove the fuel pump, disassemble, and clean things up. Things will be just as icky inside the fuel pump, and you don't want that **** in the injectors.

To clean up the tank, I'd get a bottle or two of fuel system cleaner (Berrymans is a good one) -- it's made to dissolve this type of stuff. Get the other rubber or plastic bits out of the way, and don't get it on the paint.
Click to expand...

good advice.
 
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knobby

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bwringer said:
Whatever you do, do NOT dump any Kreem products in there. Kreem is evil, useless krap. If you do need tank cleaning or coating supplies, get some Por15.

But since there's no rust, you really don't need to fart around with acids and such.


Yes, you'll want to remove the fuel pump, disassemble, and clean things up. Things will be just as icky inside the fuel pump, and you don't want that **** in the injectors.

To clean up the tank, I'd get a bottle or two of fuel system cleaner (Berrymans is a good one) -- it's made to dissolve this type of stuff. Get the other rubber or plastic bits out of the way, and don't get it on the paint.
Click to expand...

The scary thing is that Kreem recommends their sealer for light aircraft use
 
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knobby

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down by the river under a Jeep
2oolhound said:
It sounds like ethanol damage. Ethanol in fuel will eat just about anything. What ever protective coating the tank had didn't stand up and has broken down. Ethanol will eat fuel lines and carbs too.

Here in Canada Chevron has the regular 3 grades of gas and a 4th grade that is ethanol free. There is a web page devoted to listing gas stations that have ethanol free fuels in North America. Google ethanol free fuels to find it.
Click to expand...

I got to agree with you the fuel started out as sunoco 94 and even worse here in SW Ontario its been said that we get some of the dirtiest blends of gas in north America
Even working outdoors the smell of the old gas made me feel ill just nasty
 
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PBCampbell

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Probably a little tough to get Varsol in small quantities these days but any solvent should take care of the varnish. Pine-sol is a nice gentle cleaner, works good for carbon too.
 
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Jiles

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Had the same situation a few years ago only on a larger scale. Inherited a classic car that had 1/4 tank of fuel for over 19 years. I tried virtually every thing I had and finally found that Acetone would instantly dissolve the gum. This is a strong paint cleaner, available at most hardware stores, and it should be used with CAUTION!!
After using nearly a gallon, a little at a time, fuel tank looked new. I let it set in the sun until completely dry and then added a tank sealer. I believe it was
http://www.hirschauto.com/prodinfo.asp?number=GTS but not sure.
Link is only for reference because I know I didn't pay anywhere close to that price.
If the tank is not rusty, maybe the sealer is not necessary.
 
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theknurl

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knobby;

fuel pump plate O-rings (round ones)

come from McMaster/Carr...

the 4 5/8" ones on Ducatis and MV Agustas are $7.48 for 25 or $0.30 ea

the dealers get ~$18 and $12 ea

fuel pumps are ~$18 on Ebay

;)
 
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ttpete

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Dearborn, MI
knobby said:
Not too worried about the pump the bike only had 2 tanks of fuel through it

The awesome O ring that seals the pump to the tank is only $25:headscrat
Click to expand...

You might as well change the pump out, it'll save you having to do it shortly after putting the tank back on. Any hose used inside the tank has to be a special type that's fuel resistant on the outside as well as the inside. NAPA has it. You also need to use original type hose clamps that crimp on. Screw clamps will fail.

If you get an 0-ring from other than a dealer, it HAS to be a Viton one. Ordinary ones aren't fuel proof.

I've been all through this working with Ducatis.
 
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