Gutting a Baldor Grinder (Help!)

[MustangFJ]

Need some help here.

I recently picked up an older 8" Baldor Grinder. It ran great but was covered in grease and grimy dirt on top of a couple of coats of paint. (I suspect this one dates to the early 60s or later as it has the older style BALDOR logo in a comic sans front and does not have the vacuum holes in the back.) I'm taking it apart so I can clean it up and give it a good painting as even the internals are dirty and greasy.

So, I have almost completely taken it apart which was surprising easy until this point. Everything is disassembled with the exception of the housing around the motor. I'd like to separate the housing from all of the wiring inside so I can clean them both up. There do not appear to be any screws left to pull out. There is a yellow colored ring on each side that appears to be holding everything else in but no clear way to remove it.

So does anyone know the trick to take these apart? If it is impossible to take them apart, what can I use to clean the insides without wrecking the whole thing.

Some crappy pictures from my phone:
View media item 23798View media item 23797

 

[930dreamer]

The stator coil is the part you trying to remove.

 

[Provincial]

You have disassembled it as far as possible based on the design. The stator coils are not intended to be disassembled. Wash the unit with electric motor cleaner and call it good.

You will damage the wiring if you try to disassemble it further. Rewinding the motor will cost hundreds of dollars!

 

[MustangFJ]

You have disassembled it as far as possible based on the design. The stator coils are not intended to be disassembled. Wash the unit with electric motor cleaner and call it good.

You will damage the wiring if you try to disassemble it further. Rewinding the motor will cost hundreds of dollars!

Thanks! That is kind of what I thought. Rats. Everything else came apart so nicely. I'll have to look into this electric motor cleaner!

Any tips on getting the Baldor name tag off? I would like to remove it so I can paint under it. I had hoped to push the pins out from the inside but that is a no-go now. I have never had luck getting those kinds of pins out without damaging them or the tag.

 

[Provincial]

I doubt that you will be successful in removing the drive screws from the name tag without some damage. I have removed them from aluminum housings by using a cold chisel ground so that the cutting edge is made using the flat of the chisel on one side, meaning that it is designed to cut flush with a surface. I then tap gently on the head of the drive screw, alternating sides until it starts to lift up away from the tag. The I use diagonal cutting pliers to work it out the rest of the way. You have to be very careful doing this or you will dent the tag. Many times the head of the drive screw has countersunk itself into the tag, so you are not wedging the drive screw out from underneath, just making a notch in the side of the head as you work it loose.

 

[pcmeiners]

Easy to get the tag off, just did it on mine on my 812. The pins go through the housing, they stick out about 1/4", just use a screw driver, leveraged off the laminations to push the pins flush with the inside of the housing, Worry not you will not hurt the laminations, very little force is needed. Once pushed out, use a nail remover,needle nose, pliers etc, again very little force needed.
My 812 is younger then yours, count on the bearing needing replacement. Nachi 6206Z originals, I replaced them with Nachi (Quest) 6206ZZE with C3 clearance, I could not find 6206zz (normal clearance), actually ordered CN but the company sent out C3. Wasted a couple hours looking for CN clearance. Ebay is pretty cheap.
Used Home Depot Superstripe to get most of the paint off, 4"wire wheel on a 4 inch grinder to get the remainder,..down to polished metal at this moment, about 6 hours to get the unessembled grinder and pedestal to that state.

 

[BWS]

If you absolutely have to get the drive pins out....

Modify'd pr of regular visegrips.Noting,once you do this...these pliers won't work for anything else.You take a cut-oof wheel and grind the very end of jaws into miniature pincers.Going real slow as to not "F" up heat treat(and one very good reason to use real vise-grip vs chinkenese BS).But am getting ahead here a bit....you need to carefully reshape the outer edges of VG's jaws...sorta at the same time.Again,patiently shaping/cooling on a belt grinder.

The outside of jaws need to be polished to a very smooth/brite condition.....the inside of jaws are sharpened to grab drive pin a cpl .001's above plate.In a twisting,turning..not prying motion.Will see those little fockers pop out like a rotten tooth.

I'll do it for payin customers.....generally having better things to do if fixin "stuff" for myself.It does work and works well.Good luck.

 

[pcmeiners]

Finished up my 812 last week, came out really good with Sherman Williams urethane. The only aggravation was removing the roll pins on each shaft, had to use a few diamond burs to eat them up... using roll pins was a poor/cheap engineering design. Have another grinder, a Baldor 500, the pins came out easily with a slide hammer, mounted with a fine thread sheetrock screw. Reinstalled new ones Never-Seez