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H&C Acrylic Sealer

Gotgone

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Jun 8, 2007
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Has anyone else used this sealer? I have put down two coats so far. I seem to be having a problem with lap marks. The first coat was put on way to thin which is my fault. Tons of lap marks and very thin. I put the 2nd coat on heavier and the coverage is better but I still have a stripes. Some of the places look like the sealer was put on too dry, which I know wasn't the case today. I called H&C and talked to a rep. He said put a 3rd coat on and if I still have stripes, get a gallon of xylene and go over the floor with it. Supposedly this will rewet the sealer and blend the the stripes. Shouldn't have to do that just don't know what I am doing wrong. Any suggestions?
 
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comp

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Dec 26, 2005
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510
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Eville In.
Has anyone else used this sealer? I have put down two coats so far. I seem to be having a problem with lap marks. The first coat was put on way to thin which is my fault. Tons of lap marks and very thin. I put the 2nd coat on heavier and the coverage is better but I still have a stripes. Some of the places look like the sealer was put on too dry, which I know wasn't the case today. I called H&C and talked to a rep. He said put a 3rd coat on and if I still have stripes, get a gallon of xylene and go over the floor with it. Supposedly this will rewet the sealer and blend the the stripes. Shouldn't have to do that just don't know what I am doing wrong. Any suggestions?

try cross patern with the next coat
 
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Gotgone

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Thanks for the suggestion. I did the cross pattern with the first two coats. I just finished coat #3. Still some lapmarks. Thinking about buying another gallon or two. I just hate to get too much of a buildup if that is possible.
 

sjsfire

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Feb 21, 2006
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371
Location
illinois
What kind of roller knapp are you using. Make sure it's for solvent based material. How thick? I used a different brand of sealer and my instructions said to use a 3/8 knapp. How much presure are you putting on the handle as you roll? Don't know if any of this will help but it might.
 
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I am using a 3/8 nap Purdy roller that I got from Sherwin Williams. I bought 3 of them and pitch them after each coat. I just talked to the store manager. He agreed that I probably should put on another coat. He also suggested an 18" roller instead of the 9" I have been using. He is giving me the pan and Roller for nothing since I have had problems. Part of the reason is I have a monolithic floor. With no expansion joints, there is no stopping point. The sealer dries pretty much before I can make a 2nd pass. The manager also thought I may be getting a build up of sealer with the shark grip additive. He thinks it may be causing a streaked look because of the way light reflects. Sounds like another straw grasp to me. Got up at 4:00 this morning so I could put an early coat on. I should be able to get the last coat on before dark. Won't even think about applying after dark as the garage and floor would be full of bugs.The boss says this better work. Enough is enough. Thanks for all of your help.
 
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I can't find a thing on the can that mentions solids. Old eyes don't always work correctly. Gonna go pick up more supplies. Will let you all know how it turns out. Recoat time is 5:30 cdt.
 
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Thanks for the suggestions folks. FWIW, Sherwin williams only charged me for the sealer. The roller, extension and pan were free. Can't complain about the service. Probably not the product either. Wrong tools for the job.
 
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Just finished coat #4. Much better coverage. Just a couple of streaks. Worked like a wildman trying to keep a wet edge. All in all pretty satisfied. I think the trick is an 18" roller and work fast. Thanks again for all your help.
 
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I am beginning to wonder if the origianal 5 gallons was old stock. The two gallons I bought yesterday and applied were much stronger smelling. In fact my eyes burned and had to use a mask about halfway through the application. The previous coats had an odor but nothing near the last gallons. Anyhow it is done. I tried posting pics but the files are too big. Maybe I am doing it wrong. Old dogs and new tricks don't always sync.
 
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I originaly bought 5 gallons of the sandstone. After painting the bench and 3 pegboards, I thought it might be too dark. I exchanged the sandstone for siberian haze. It is a little lighter. Have to wait 3 to 4 days before I can move stuff back. My patio looks like Fred Sandfords front yard.
The manager of the Sherwin Williams store put Sandstone down in their warehouse. He takes customers back there to show them how it looks. He has an 8 foot pipe that he chops at the sealer with. So far he hasn't been able to get any to chip off the floor.
 
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snorvet

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Oct 29, 2005
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777
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Northern Illinois
yea I was thinking that sandstone may be a little dark. But I put in 6 T12 High output 2 bulb fixtures that light it up and I will only use this garage to store cars.

About your eyes - I googled H&C and found one article where a guy said he burned his corneas and was partially blind for 3 days.

Its good news that the SW manager beats on his warehouse floor with a pipe and theres no damage
 
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I have 6 2 bulb 4 ft fixtures. Plenty of light with the lighter floor. The previous floor was a darker floor but had more gloss than the H&C sealer. Get to put things back on saturday. Tying to decide if I should wait an extra 24 hrs since I put so much on the floor. The can says to wait 72-96 hrs before heavy duty.
 

BreBar21

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May 17, 2007
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91
Location
Orlando, FL
I know you're done, but I had a similar experience with H&C Clear 23. I know I was applying it right, but was still getting some inconsistency in some areas. I called H&C and they mentioned the Xylene as well. I went over everything with Xylene and it looks a ton better. It smoothed everything out a lot. I'm much happier with the results after Xylene. The Xylene also gave it some more shine as well.
 
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I was all set to put a coat of Xylene on the floor. Decided I would give it one more coat of sealer. Glad I did. I still am giving some thought to putting a coat on. How much trouble was it? Did you roll it real wet? I am putting stuff back in the garage tomorrow. Last night I decided to paint the trim around the overhead door. I put a tarp down to keep any paint splatters off the new floor. I waited about 2 hrs for the trim to dry and pulled the tape and the tarp. Just my luck must of had holes in the tarp. Had dry paint smears on the new floor. I grabbed a can of mineral spirits and got all the paint up. Didn't seem to cause a problem with the floor. Just an FYI
 

BreBar21

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May 17, 2007
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91
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Orlando, FL
It's not a lot of trouble. Easier than the sealant. It dries in ~20-30mins. I did roll it on wet. I have a feeling that it would work even better if one were to brush it on. I tried that in a few areas and I think I prefer that approach. With just rolling it, I would get some tiny bubbles in some areas. Now, I don't know if that is because of the roller, the clear 23, or the xylene. The guy at H&C said it could be caused by any number of things. My inclination is it is roller related. As I understood, the quality of the roller wasn't that important, but I'm beginning to think it is. I might grab a couple better rollers and see what happens. If you're happy with the way it looks after the last coat of sealer, I'd probably skip the xylene.

If you decide to do it, wear a mask. Xylene is REALLY strong.

Also, if you happen to get a scratch or something in the sealer in the future, xylene is a great way to remove them. I had some scratches from my sister's dog and it pulled those right up.
 

Fredartic

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Mar 27, 2007
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283
Location
Ste-Sophie, Quebec
I just bought my 3 gallons of H&C Acrylic Sealer at Ottawa. I have chosen a very light yellow. They mixed it for me from the Sherwin Williams colors. I found the Etching there too. I discussed about clear 23 and he was honest, he told me that it's very difficult to obtain a good result with that product; it makes unregular shine that you can see at the sun. So I decided to don't put the clear 23. But maybe another brand of clear coat will be nice? Any idea of another brand?

He recommanded me the TSP solution for cleaning the concrete but I'm not sure it will be enough strong to remove oil, isn't it?

He told me too that the tips with masking tape is to remove it right after you finish, witout it has time to dry.
 

BreBar21

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May 17, 2007
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Orlando, FL
In my experience, what he said is true. It doesn't make the concrete look like marble and the shine is irregular in spots. It's not as bad as it sounds. It doesn't really bother me. With a coat of xylene, it looks much smoother.

I have acid stained concrete floors inside my house and was told by a guy that does it for a living to use clear 23. That's why I used it.
 
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When I prepped my floor I hit all the oil spots with laquer thinner and ground in some kitty litter. Doesnt remove the stain but got all the loose oil up. I used TSP with my power washer and scrubbed the floor with a strong pushbroom. Repeated this 3 times and then used miratic acid to etch. Seemed to do the trick. No fisheyes when applying the sealer.
 

BreBar21

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May 17, 2007
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91
Location
Orlando, FL
The floors in my house were stained by a professional several years ago. I wanted to reseal them to regain some shine. I was told mopping with a mild detergent and then mopping again with water would be sufficient prep for already stained floors. I'm thinking that perhaps I shoud have done more to prep the floors pre-sealer and things may have gone smoother. The xylene got rid of the fisheye look I had in a few places.

I tell ya, you always seem to learn what you should've done like 10mins after you finish. lol.
 

Fredartic

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Mar 27, 2007
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283
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Ste-Sophie, Quebec
I read on a product can cleaner at Reno that oil stain maybe reappear after 24 hours... So is it better to wait after 24 hours to do the finition coat after etching?
 

snorvet

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Oct 29, 2005
Messages
777
Location
Northern Illinois
Just finished coat #4. Much better coverage. Just a couple of streaks. Worked like a wildman trying to keep a wet edge. All in all pretty satisfied. I think the trick is an 18" roller and work fast. Thanks again for all your help.

I just did my step from the garage to the house as a test. I couldnt brush it on the 3' wide step fast enough to keep a wet edge. It dried in about 3 minutes. Do you think the hotter temperature makes it dry faster? How hot was it when you applied yours?
 

JMURiz

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Dec 6, 2005
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1,483
Location
NoVA
Hey Guys, does anyone have any pictures to post on your experience with H&C? I'd love to see some pics to be sure I'm going to get the look I'm after. Also would you have gone with another product if doing it again?

thanks,
 

snorvet

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Oct 29, 2005
Messages
777
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Northern Illinois
just did mine less than a month ago. Its holding up fine. I would definitely use it again. Here's a thread:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4651

laser1.jpg


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