
Can the handle be fitted at different positions, to avoid obstructions and skinned knuckles?
DOH!Can the handle be fitted at different positions, to avoid obstructions and skinned knuckles?

That's hilarious....for rough cuts.
Me too, Jock, hence my initially reported befuddlement. It should've been a big hint, but only made my denseness on this one even more dense! You don't have to pull the screw all the way out to turn the frame, just loose enough to free the four little pins. A simple twist of the handle 90* to the left or right for side cuts, or 180* for bottom cuts, reseat the pins, tighten the screw with your index and thumb and you're in business again. Screwdriver if you must.I've seen many knurled screws with slots. It allows quick adjustment when you don't use a tool to tighten, and gives the option to get it really tight with a tool.
Yessir. There are three pairs of them. I'll post some photos later. Off to my Friday flea.I'm a little curious about the divot at the bottom of the handle. Is that where the two halves of the handle are spot welded?
Joe
MERIT was a Sears, Roebuck, & Co economy brand in parallel to Craftsman, and MERIT tools often bear the same codes as the Craftsman tools, which were not phonetic, acronymic, or abbreviations. Consider the well-known and established example. New Britain = (H) & BE. Vlchek = BT. Billings & Spencer = AF. Etc. MERIT wrenches often have BT and AF codes. But neither lauver's list or AA's guide contains a "BP".BridgePort?
I just picked up my third power hacksaw today... while small they still take up more room then the manual versions.
Good thread.
I generally don't collect hacksaw frames unless they meet WWII specs (straight wood handle, break-down adjustable 8"-12", thumbnut tensioner at the end from 1942-1944, composite pistol grip in 1945), or they are unusual in some way!
DOH!
Good on you, mate! Somebody had their thinking cap on!![]()
Strange how some good ideas just don't last no matter how good they are. There are those who automatically ascribe obsolescence to logic, a sort of 'Survival of the Fittest' view of the evolution of the tool industry. I am not one of them. In fact, there is a whole thread for 'Tools We Wish Were Still Made' (or something like that) up on the General Discussion board.Nice hacksaw, looks a useful design and good for tight spots, I like it.
It's the same in my part of the US, dutchgray. Vintage plain straight wood-handled break-down hacksaw frames and blades are cheap and plentiful at flea markets. And I have moved quite a few of them along to WWII GMTK collectors who don't live in those kinds of areas, because that was the spec.I like this type of hacksaw and do most hacksaw work with one over a modern ergonomic type, firstly because I find I cut straight with them and secondly you can buy old stock good quality 10" hacksaw blades for pennies per blade and 10" is enough blade for pretty much anything I want to cut by hand. Mine are all English and are usually bought for one or two pounds second hand as no one seems to want them.
Excellent work, Lesserstore. Thanks for the full 411. And good to know that Union Hardware = BP. Ironically, Union Hardware hacksaws of the standard type dutchgray and I were just discussing above are a very popular choice with WWII GMTK collectors. I would get mine and take a photo, but Don has several posted upthread. See Post #51 (and also for a good wordplay chuckle). In April 1945, just as the war was ending, the Army updated their spec to metal pistol grips.Lugz, Union Hardware was granted the patent for that saw in 1938 and applied for it in 1936. It was listed from spring 1937- spring 1938 Sears catalogs and only the spring 1937 catalog had as a Merit brand and after that it was branded as a Dunlap.
https://patents.google.com/patent/U...=filing:19380101&after=filing:19350101&page=1
Private Lugnutz said:Has anyone else ever seen any hacksaw with a similar adjustment? Of any design? Any mfgr?
You save me hours of research, and those Craftsman catalogs are not in the public domain, so it was indispensable. Looking forward to your thread.Glad I could help Lugz. I was already doing some research on some tools from that era because my uncle passed away a few months ago and he had my great grandfather's tools who was a machinist and it's just this great assortment of brands from the 1930s-80s. I'll be doing a thread on those soon-ish.
I don't know about papaw's but he hasn't been here in awhile. I have a printout of his nifty color-coded list & timeline in a sleeve in one of my hobby notebooks that I would update with a pen from time to time after checking in with him on GG, last update EDIT: 2018, and it does not include a "BP."RE: "BP":
Is Mr. Lauver still active here and on papaws? I have to wonder if he might have some little tidbit to confirm that.
Valid question, which I wondered myself upthread. I don't have any modern hacksaws to see if this is still true, but I suspect the more-or-less standard ability to rotate the blade 4 ways on vintage hacksaws (see Pics) sufficed with enough users, or at least enough merchandising people. Think about it this way - I am so used to that feature even 70+ years later that it completely blinded my intuition on this Morris Patent Union Hardware design even after taking it apart! But it is not the same. It takes a lot more fiddling and time to loosen both ends, re-hook the blade, and re-tighten both ends, for one thing. And more significantly, rotating the entire frame from the handle provides much more clearance - the entire height of the frame, in fact, which is 4 inches. A rotated blade is still in-line with the frame. This mid-30's Union/MERIT hacksaw really is amazing.Now I’m wondering why all hacksaws don’t have this capability....brilliant!
I believe that is a dehorning saw Two sheds, cool.
I just picked up my third power hacksaw today... while small they still take up more room then the manual versions.


Think you are right.. The small cast iron saw handle carries a patent date of Aug. 28, 1877 but no maker, the 8" straight handle saw with star emblems is perhaps Millers Falls, and the big M/F #14 "***********" saw I've read was commonly used for cutting railroad rails.
Haha. Clever.and I marvel that the number of variations there are.
That makes two of us! Nice find, Joe!I was unaware that Armstrong Blum ever made hand hacksaw frames much less such a weird and wonderful one like this.