hackzall vs reciprocating saw

[rmsg0040]

Hey there,

I am just a backyard mechanic, who is already invested in Milwaukee's cordless lineup. I am looking at either a M18 hackzall or a M18 recip. saw. This is a tool which will only be used for light duty applications and may not be used that often, maybe only a handful of times during the year.

Applications include cutting down branches, quick cuts of 2x4's, lumber, and for cutting up car components such as exhaust piping, sway bar end links, etc.

For me, I wouldn't need a fuel version, based on expected usage.

Hackzall 2625-20 and sawzall 2620-20 are priced similar

Which tool would be best suited for me? the hackzall or recip. saw.

Thanks

 

[gearhead9056]

Ive got a friend with a hackzall, its an awful handy tool does everything a recip will do and the different shape helps get into some odd spaces better

Sent from my C771 using Tapatalk 2

 

[thebeekeeper1]

I've found my Sawzalls to only be useful for the roughest work. I can't make a straight cut to save my soul. But for tearing stuff up there is no substitute. They are MUCH more useful for fixing mistakes than building stuff.

 

[IndyGarage]

I have both a M12 hacksall and a V28 sawsall. I probably use the hacksall 5 to 1 over the sawsall. It's more convenient to pull out and use on quick jobs.

hacksall can do 90% of what you would use a sawsall for and can be used in somewhat tighter spaces.

The real difference is the stroke length. I think the hacksall has a relatively short cutting stroke. Obviously the motor is smaller, so it probably has less power even if both are 18 volts. It doesn't make much difference on wood or plastic, but on metal the hacksall is pretty slow.

You can't really put two hands on a Hacksall, like you can the sawsall, so I've found it's sometimes hard to keep the tool from reciprocating rather than the blade. That can happen on a traditional sawsall too, but your grip is in line with the blade so it's easier to prevent.

This can also be an advantage, if you need to hold both the workpiece and the tool, the hacksall works much better. It's pretty hard to use a sawsall one-handed.

 

[rmsg0040]

based on specifications they are pretty close, just the stroke length is shorter on the hackzall

^^ you mentioned that cutting through metal it is pretty slow, how much slower would it compare to a recip.,

For me as a backyard guy, time/money is not a factor, but at the same time I don't want a tool takes forever to do its job.

I may lean towards the m18 hackzall

Thanks

 

[sberry]

I disagree,, sawzall, one of the finest tools they ever invented and revolutionary especially once it went cordless. It does a ton of stuff reserved for bigger tools and yes I cut a lot of 2x4 with one, safe and fast and an hour later field cut a 4 inch steel pipe with one in about a minute. I use it to cut limbs, cut plastic and cast sewer pipe, small pipe and conduit which the hask tool would work for but I am a blaze with the 28V.

I have all 28V,,, its heavy but its like a chain saw too. One works in progression and only half the tree is small limbs worth of cutting and the rest big pieces. I am willing to trade a little weight for power especially in general work where it might be 1/8 pop rivets and 2 inch holesaw the next.
If I was an installer specialist and putting duct overhead or had big job worth of it would get a light drill,, I might anyway but the main reason we use the heavy ones is they do it all.

I should buy another sawzall and a 4 1/2 grinder. I have 2 impacts, I use 1 but the drills work hard. The saw allows for real demolition work without having to take additional tools.

 

[sberry]

I should save up some exhaust work pics, sawzall and wire feed.

 

[filtered]

I have an m12 hackzall. Using it under a car is much better than trying to get a full size tool under there, unless you have a lift. It cut through 2" exhaust pipe very easily. My only complaint is the battery life with the m12 hackzall.

 

[sberry]

How much blade can you put in one? I realize that it can cut thru an exhaust pipe but I like long heavy duty blades 1/2 the time anyway. I can eye cut really square. Long blade allows for cuts thru big material from one side. I can see real exhaust work a place where both would apply.

I see it in the store, just never bought one cause its on a different platform,,, as I mentioned earlier may consider it with a lighter drill.
For me its a choice of I already have so its not an issue, can walk out and make any cut I need to in a minute, even the perfect tool wouldnt5 be much an improvement,,, kind of like,,, whats the perfect pair of vise grip or adjustable plier? Most of the time its what you have in hand determining the method.

I would say either or both, if a guy doesn't have other cutting options these would let you do a lot, probably as much as you could imagine. We got chop saw, torches, plasma, circ saw, band saw,,, I still use it a lot and for homeowner diy to tell the truth between it and a circ saw do most of it.

 

[59 wagon man]

i used to love milwaukee and that was all i had for decades but a rash of bad trigger switches and i decided to try the RIDGID brand so far i have been very happy with their products

 

[sberry]

I agree, its one of the tools I don't care much what brand it is either, if we got one on a job we need then its a good one.

 

[cheechi]

I have an 18v sawzall, a corded, and a M12 hackzall. About half the times I think I need the 18v I may as well use the corded. The D handle and body can be both easier or harder to use depending on the situation. I am glad I have the choice of all 3, some that I thought would be better with one turned out to be better with the other.

 

[IndyGarage]

based on specifications they are pretty close, just the stroke length is shorter on the hackzall

^^ you mentioned that cutting through metal it is pretty slow, how much slower would it compare to a recip.,

It's slower. For stuff like exhaust pipe it wouldn't be terrible. If you are cutting off steel barstock it's a bigger difference. I'm sure some of the speed difference is the shorter stroke, but also the traditional sawsall design tends to put weight on the blade as it cuts, and by using two hands you can add a bit of wieght. With the hacksall, all your leverage is through your wrist.

For whoever asked; the hacksall can use any recip saw blades. The ones they give you in the kit are slightly thinned blades, but the standard ones fit fine also.

 

[rmsg0040]

^^ Thanks for that, based on my expected or intended usage, I will probably go with the M18 hackzall, unless I can get a M18 recip. for a good price

 

[PC PaiN]

I was in the same boat as few a couple of months ago. We have about similar usage requirements and I decided to go with the hackzall and have been happy with my decision. I'm a tool nut though and will probably eventually add a fuel sawzall to my collection just because

 

[Iron-Iceberg]

I know you said you didn't want the fuel version but sawsalls eat batteries. I can use up the two batteries faster than I can charge them. The fuel will last quite a bit longer. Waiting for batteries to charge in the middle of a project is a big bummer.

 

[Jwych]

I would go with the hackzall.....I have used both and The hacksall will do everything you want it to. The big thing for me on the hacksall is the metal chuck that slides back and forth to insert the blade. I dont like how the sawzall has the plastic lever to put the blade in and out.

 

[Ingram306]

As mentioned before, the cordless saw all is nice sometimes, but if I had to,choose I would go with the hackzall and the big Milwaukee sawzall. I use the big one constantly and love it. All the cordless ones are ehhhh.