Half inch short

[ZBHOWELL]

Hey garager’s

As you can see I came in about a half inch too short on my back wall. Any issues with throwing a full length spacer in there once I figure my plumb?

Thanks!

 

[jack stand]

I'd pull that stud, fill in the green plate as best as you can (including PT and glue) and put a double stud back in against the adjoining wall.
Use a little 1/2" with the grain rip instead of a cross cut that's sure to break.

 

[Old tool guy]

Are you sheathing with plywood?

 

[The Cobbler]

I doubt your building inspector would have any concerns with a spacer in there
or
move the 2x4 over tight to the other wall & nail it back on

 

[Shiftless]

Why is there a lumber label stapled onto the end of this board that doesn't match what it really is?
That is not a 2x4. Is it even pressure treated?

 

[ZBHOWELL]

Are you sheathing with plywood?

Yes OSB

 

[ZBHOWELL]

Why is there a lumber label stapled onto the end of this board that doesn't match what it really is?
That is not a 2x4. Is it even pressure treated?

Here’s a better shot of the sticker.

 

[Jeff C]

Is the wall short or is something out of square?

 

[ZBHOWELL]

Is the wall short or is something out of square?

Short. Square is fine.

 

[ZBHOWELL]

I'd pull that stud, fill in the green plate as best as you can (including PT and glue) and put a double stud back in against the adjoining wall.
Use a little 1/2" with the grain rip instead of a cross cut that's sure to break.

Thanks for the suggestion. I do have a scrap piece of green so that would be easy. What is PT?

 

[ZBHOWELL]

I doubt your building inspector would have any concerns with a spacer in there
or
move the 2x4 over tight to the other wall & nail it back on

Appreciate the suggestion. I’m thinking this and an extra stud as another member suggested and splice in a piece of green board at the bottom.

 

[coldh2o]

Why is there a lumber label stapled onto the end of this board that doesn't match what it really is?
That is not a 2x4. Is it even pressure treated?

That is definitely a 2x4, you can scale it from the 1 1/2" width of the adjacent stud.

I'd pull the stud and move it over tight to the wall, then caulk the gap in the sill plate.

 

[captain14]

Thanks for the suggestion. I do have a scrap piece of green so that would be easy. What is PT?

Pressure treated. (PT lumber)

 

[ZBHOWELL]

Pressure treated. (PT lumber)

Haha duh! Thanks!

 

[Shiftless]

That is definitely a 2x4, you can scale it from the 1 1/2" width of the adjacent stud.

I'd pull the stud and move it over tight to the wall, then caulk the gap in the sill plate.

You’re right. The picture looked at first like it was a lot wider than it was thick.

 

[Old tool guy]

Yes OSB

Then you can leave it as-is and let the osb tie the studs together.

 

[firebirdparts]

Spacer is a-ok. the sheeting does tie it together, but the spacer and the walls nails together is 100 times stronger. If you have a double top plate, like civilized people, such strength is not really needed. A lot of people nowadays don't do a double top plate, so I didn't want to assume. A lot of people nowadays also have neck tatoos. So I don't always go by "a lot of people".

 

[ZBHOWELL]

Spacer is a-ok. the sheeting does tie it together, but the spacer and the walls nails together is 100 times stronger. If you have a double top plate, like civilized people, such strength is not really needed. A lot of people nowadays don't do a double top plate, so I didn't want to assume. A lot of people nowadays also have neck tatoos. So I don't always go by "a lot of people".

Thanks for your reply. Definitely doing a double top plate. Don’t see why anyone wouldn’t. It’s cheap insurance that from what I see doubles the strength of holding up the roof.

 

[cmandp]

I would probably shim in appropriate thickness plywood and screw/lag into adjacent wall stud(s) and be done.

 

[Old Moparz]

Yes OSB

I know this is not related to what you are asking, but are you going to have OSB end right at the concrete? It just seems like you're going to have issues with the bottom edge of the OSB absorbing water & moisture being that close to the finished grade outside.

 

[CraigStu]

I would never move that stud. Ripping it out could ruin the ends of either the stud or the bottom plate, or both, depending how it is nailed. And then it sits on 3/4" of the bottom plate and 3/4" of a chunk of something and is nailed to what? I'd install a spacer.

 

[ZBHOWELL]

I know this is not related to what you are asking, but are you going to have OSB end right at the concrete? It just seems like you're going to have issues with the bottom edge of the OSB absorbing water & moisture being that close to the finished grade outside.

You’re spot on. I’m going to find a trex trim or something to run around the bottom and cut the osb a few inches shy of the slab.

 

[ZBHOWELL]

I would never move that stud. Ripping it out could ruin the ends of either the stud or the bottom plate, or both, depending how it is nailed. And then it sits on 3/4" of the bottom plate and 3/4" of a chunk of something and is nailed to what? I'd install a spacer.

Great points.

 

[southalabama]

Fill the gap with 1/2” treated or whatever dimension tightly fits. Call it good. I’d wedge it in. Try nailing it in you’ll split it.

For insurance I’d then go on top of that with 1/2” or whatever a couple feet up into the gap and nail thru the side of the stud into the filler. That will keep it pushed down.

 

[jives]

Easy fix as sate above. Rip boards to the 1/2" thickness (or whatever it is) to fill the gap from concrete bottom to top plate. Use PT lumber, at least on the concrete contact end. Use 3.5" construction screws to secure the walls together.

 

[Beemer]

I cut it twice and it still was too short.

 

[RPH]

I cut it twice and it still was too short.

So, go to the basement and get a pair of skyhooks.
We can use those as a board stretcher to get the length back.
Get a bucket of board plump while you’re at it.
Plumps the board after stretching.

 

[klassenl]

In the real world they would throw some plywood in there, maybe some spray foam and keep going.

 

[PugetDude]

In the real world they would bang the stud over, nail the sh*t out of it with a nail gun and maybe throw a second stud alongside it. Done.