Hammer time!
- Thread starter Outlawmws
- Start date
I picked up this little cross pein Hammer and it has the same number as this ball pein, ETF1942. What the hey?
Anyhow I'm trying to decide if I should grind the face down to get rid of the 1/16" deep gouge on the face or if I should tack a bead on it, then grind it. What rod would be good for that?
Anyhow I'm trying to decide if I should grind the face down to get rid of the 1/16" deep gouge on the face or if I should tack a bead on it, then grind it. What rod would be good for that?
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2oolHound, I'd thing some sort of hard facing rod would be better than grinding it out, but what specific one for a hammer I don't have any experience with. (This may be a question for the welding section of GJ)
If you find out post it here!
BTW, what do you think the head weight is in the cross peen?
If you find out post it here!
BTW, what do you think the head weight is in the cross peen?
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I got these two a week or so ago: the narrowest Splitting Maul I've ever seen (and I'm not totally convinced it's a splitting maul....)
Blade is no wider the the thickness of the head. It does appear to use a std sledge, handle however.
It's weight is about 5-1/4 lbs.
Detailed pisc from top and side:
The Farriers hammer was also new to me, and longer than what I'm used to seeing for that. Compared to a more "modern"pattern Farriers; Both are the same weight about 2-1/2lbs.:
Blade is no wider the the thickness of the head. It does appear to use a std sledge, handle however.
It's weight is about 5-1/4 lbs.Detailed pisc from top and side:
The Farriers hammer was also new to me, and longer than what I'm used to seeing for that. Compared to a more "modern"pattern Farriers; Both are the same weight about 2-1/2lbs.:
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GINIK
Well-known member
Mr Outlaw
They are made for splitting stone.
I have one myself.
They are made for splitting stone.
I have one myself.
Interesting; That makes some sense at least. Thanks for the info. So if you have one, does it use the std. sledge length handle, or something shorter? And what types of stone are we talking about here? any kind, or softer types?
Used to drive a hammer drill, then the splitters, then shove the blade in and twist?
Almost no stone working knowledge here, other than a bit of history, and basics for drilling and splitting.
Used to drive a hammer drill, then the splitters, then shove the blade in and twist?
Almost no stone working knowledge here, other than a bit of history, and basics for drilling and splitting.
GINIK
Well-known member
Length of the head 180 mm.
Handle 350 mm.
I guess mine is made for softer stones,
but there are carbide tipped variants, that could be used for granite for example.
Handle 350 mm.
I guess mine is made for softer stones,
but there are carbide tipped variants, that could be used for granite for example.
Here are the hammers that I use the most. I think my favorite of all of them is the 6 pound sledge with the short steel handle welded to it (last pic). I use that thing all the time for shaping and pounding all sorts of stuff in combination with my small railroad track anvil and my large solid steel hockey puck anvil.
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i like that wood mallet made from handrail, really cool
GINIK
Well-known member
Min is 7-3/4 or so long, so, about 197 mm so min's a bit bigger, probably 10% or so heavier
So do you just pound a line in the rock to start a fracture zone? Or is this just a "drilling hammer" with a wedge?
Yes, am not an expert in this area, but thats how I make it (pound a line).
Seach the net with "stone splitting", and you will get some ideas.
Here is a picture of it beside a chisel hammer.
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bigcaddy
Well-known member
bigcaddy
Well-known member
I think so. I've got a number of old Craftsman items that have remnants of dark blue paint. At least 3 vises i own have that dark blue and this hammer had some inside the shaft hole.
I'm fairly certain that the blue was the color. I've got this hammers twin brother in the 8oz size thats going to be done next.
jeffmoss26
Well-known member
Damn, that's a nice hammer.
I re-handled one of mine yesterday but it's not photo-worthy...lol
I re-handled one of mine yesterday but it's not photo-worthy...lol
x2 that you've restored a gem in that hammer . . . NICE !!!
GINIK
Well-known member
Nice to see old tools restored to full glory.
They are not only good looking.
They will be more fun to work with as well.
jjjrmx5
Well-known member
In honor of Outlaw I found a 36oz cross peen last week as an orphan.
Twist roofing nail and screw keeping the head on.
Keep? Not keep?
New hickory handle bought yesterday for $6. Made in USA about 150 miles over from me in Seymour, IN.
I hate you GJ and outlaw...LOLOLOLOLOLOLZ
Orphan hammer to be saved this week.
Ha.
Twist roofing nail and screw keeping the head on.
Keep? Not keep?
New hickory handle bought yesterday for $6. Made in USA about 150 miles over from me in Seymour, IN.
I hate you GJ and outlaw...LOLOLOLOLOLOLZ
Orphan hammer to be saved this week.
Ha.
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GINIK
Well-known member
I believe that is a blacksmith hammer.
scrapdaddy
Well-known member
scrapdaddy
Well-known member
Mohawk Dave
Well-known member
Amitygravel
Well-known member
Appears to be a French pattern cross peen hammer. good buy for a buck. maybe a peddinghaus. any markings?
Mohawk Dave
Well-known member
French pattern huh? Right on. No markings...but I've yet to clean it. The paint job, however, is strikingly familiar to my Kapriol Hammers-like the one in the pic.
EDIT: NICE catsteve! googled the term..came up with FRENCH PATTERN JOINERS HAMMER, here's a link -- http://anvils.co.uk/products/view/610?cat=78 and pic below.
Now I have to google what a "joiners hammer" is...here we go...
"Traditional Cabinetmakers hammer for general shop use
Features a drop forged square head for easy access to corners
Small end is used to easily start nails and brads"
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0056O37X2/?tag=atomicindus08-20
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OK so far we have only done hand held hammers. Now it's time to apply :MORE POWER! 
I finally got around to setting up the Power nailer that Steevo so generously grabbed for me, and gave it a test drive then set it up for a test with a section of RR rail for an anvil! It's not nearly as scary as when its just flailing around!
Here it is configured as intended as a power floor nailer. no nails were used to demo this.
<iframe width="640" height="360" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/3nEG_QkDpEc?feature=player_detailpage" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
And Here it is setup to pound on the RR Rail "anvil" just to give a hint where I'm heading with this!
<iframe width="640" height="360" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/4t4mUtt52OA?feature=player_embedded" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
And some pics of the thing:
The Business end with feed hoppers and I assume the lower tray is for catching stray nails. No Clue what Nails it takes, but I'd almost bet it takes a std finish nail. The shooter hole is round in any case.
Here you can see the nail "feed" line:
This is the "Trigger" and sear for "firing" it in the un-cocked position
And this is with it in the "Cocked" position:
I finally got around to setting up the Power nailer that Steevo so generously grabbed for me, and gave it a test drive then set it up for a test with a section of RR rail for an anvil! It's not nearly as scary as when its just flailing around!
Here it is configured as intended as a power floor nailer. no nails were used to demo this.
<iframe width="640" height="360" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/3nEG_QkDpEc?feature=player_detailpage" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
And Here it is setup to pound on the RR Rail "anvil" just to give a hint where I'm heading with this!
<iframe width="640" height="360" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/4t4mUtt52OA?feature=player_embedded" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
And some pics of the thing:
The Business end with feed hoppers and I assume the lower tray is for catching stray nails. No Clue what Nails it takes, but I'd almost bet it takes a std finish nail. The shooter hole is round in any case.
Here you can see the nail "feed" line:
This is the "Trigger" and sear for "firing" it in the un-cocked position
And this is with it in the "Cocked" position:
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Outlawmws,
That is a really neat tool you have there, I like it. I could see it working great for all sorts of metal shaping tasks with custom dish and dome shaped hammer head attachments and different shapes and surfaces to pound against. It seems like a nice compact DIY'ers "jack of all trades" type tool. You could even possibly make a hammer with a shaft made from a heavy spring so it can flex a little bit to cut down on the impact force as needed.
It also looks like it would be great at reducing the thickness of thumbs and fingers.
Someone needs to bring that thing to their factory job and set it up on the factory floor right before an OSHA inspection, I would pay money to see that on video.
That is a really neat tool you have there, I like it. I could see it working great for all sorts of metal shaping tasks with custom dish and dome shaped hammer head attachments and different shapes and surfaces to pound against. It seems like a nice compact DIY'ers "jack of all trades" type tool. You could even possibly make a hammer with a shaft made from a heavy spring so it can flex a little bit to cut down on the impact force as needed.
It also looks like it would be great at reducing the thickness of thumbs and fingers.
Someone needs to bring that thing to their factory job and set it up on the factory floor right before an OSHA inspection, I would pay money to see that on video.
bigcaddy
Well-known member
i just bought one of those a week or two ago and had no idea what it was. I read a few more posts and now i know its a French Patter Joiners hammer.
Thanks and ill post a picture of a real oddball that nobody has seen before.
bigcaddy
Well-known member
jeffmoss26
Well-known member
Damn!!
geojag
Well-known member
Getting heavier, Engineer, hammers, a heavy cross peen, and what I believe is a riveting hammer for hi-rise work.
The last hammer (with the webbing attached)is for mountaineering. It is a piton hammer, you install and pull pitons (metal wedges) into cracks in rock with it, then you hang off them
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rshadd
Well-known member
Trusty-Cook Mechanics 3 Pack Special... (TCBP24, Model #3, Model #S2)
Here's what else is in the hammer drawer, some Craftsman and some unknowns.
Here's what else is in the hammer drawer, some Craftsman and some unknowns.
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The last hammer (with the webbing attached)is for mountaineering. It is a piton hammer, you install and pull pitons (metal wedges) into cracks in rock with it, then you hang off them
Thanks for the Info on that one! another tool I will probably never actually use for it's intended purpose!
Or if I get some mountain property, and need to anchor something to a big rock...
