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Hammerite Tips?

softailgarage

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Thought I would try out some Hammerite paint, so i picked up 2 quarts on amazon. They showed up this afternoon, 2 quart cans, packed in a large envelope. Yep, an envelope, an envelope with wet paint bleeding thru. The mailman didn't look to happy as he handed it off to me, which didn't make me too happy either. Who the hell ships paint cans in an envelope? :thumbup: Had to cut it away from the cans, the shipper used duct tape and taped down the lids, but our friends at the USPS musta needed a soccer ball at lunch, these things were beaten worse than Gary Crosby. Anyways, made a phone call and 2 more cans on the way, free...hopefully boxed.
I thought brushing the paint would be fairly smooth, but noooo. This stuff is thick, thick like molasses. The can say's not to thin and don't use too many brush strokes, which I tried but is a like controlling tar on a slope. Needless to say, the first piece came out looking like **** and I'm kinda regretting my thought process on brushing.:sad:
So, I'm looking for tips on how to use this stuff or should I say applying it. Any thoughts? :dunno:
 
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Craptain

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You might find the fresh paint is not as thick. I used to use it a lot back in UK and it does go on kinda thick. Having said that it only needs one coat and does not usually need primer. For spraying I would thin it regardless of the instructions not to. It needs to be well mixed to get the "hammered" effect.
 

Dustball

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I've used it several times before and didn't have a problem. It is thicker than normal paint but self-levels pretty well. I didn't do anything special or use any special brushes/rollers so perhaps the cans you used were old.

Edit- I was wrong about the paint. I re-read the post and you're talking about Hammerite. My experiences was with Rustoleum's Hammered paint.
 
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Hot Chop shop

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I used some of the rustoleum hammered paint today and it works great for bad painters like myself that get lots of runs etc.... Like already said, I used a cheap foam roller and it evens itself out.
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csp

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The Hammerite wears like iron. I can't say the same thing about the Rustoleum wannabe Hammerite. Try to remove it once it's cured and you'll see what I mean.
 

LEVE

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Hammerite takes a while to cure. I like it, but it is also affected by petroleum products. Keep gas-wet or oily rags from laying on it.
 

HMCFab9

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I've sprayed the rustoleum brand with a primer gun & a big tip on it & it made a very nice pattern, way better than brushing it. I might have to try the roller some time.
 

Dan in Pasadena

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My Rustoleum Hammered with $2.79 foam roller.





PS: Roll dry into wet only. But you're always supposed to do that. But it's more critical with this stuff. This stuff is hard as hell.
 
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softailgarage

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" This stuff is hard as hell."

7 or 8 hours later I can see that now, thus the lure of Hammerite. One of the other issue's I had was that I was looking for a more basic gray color, not the silverish gray. After my initial "rant", I had gone outside and applied the Rustoleum Gray over the Hammerite. That worked perfect, I now have the desired color with a freaking base of steel! The stuff may be awkward to work with, but at the end of the day it's worth it. I'll be using this Hammerite/Rustoleum formula a lot in the future.
 

Bigplum

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you must have different hammerite over there , the UK stuff used to be quite good but in my experience its wears badly outside now , I had some gates shotblasted and the paint barely lasted two years
 

JimVonBaden

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I am betting it is thicker than normal because of exposure when leaking. New paint should be a bit thinner.

Also, your prep wasn't very good from this photo. Looks like some oil was on the surface when you painted it, see the fisheye?


Lastly, as said, a roller makes a big difference in smoothness and even application. I'm not sure why they would say not to use one.
 

Lippyp

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You can thin hammerite, they sell specific hammerite thinners/brush cleaner. It does get thick when it gets old so maybe those cans were sat around for a while on the shelf. The spray bomb stuff is ****, too thin and doesn't cover for ****, it used to be better but I guess the nanny state over here has made em remove half the good chemicals from it. I tried some on the suspension on my blazer recently and went back to the brush on stuff.
 

Shootinok

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OK I know this is an old thread, but thought it'd be better to resurrect an oldie than start anew.
So... Hammerite - Any updates available to durability and results with a couple years on it?

I just got some shipped. Mine came in a box, and wrapped in a sealed bag. perhaps Amazon learned from experiences like @softailgarage's as the packaging was really well sealed and protected.

This stuff is definitely thicker than any paint I've ever used. Like painting on a layer of liquid Steel. It MUST be illegal in California.
I think there are Russian Satellites made from cardboard, painted with this stuff and still orbiting the earth.
Tough stuff!
I brushed it on an old cast iron grinder stand and it looks amazing. Pretty sure if the brush hairs were separated individually they could be used for cross hairs on Howitzers.

Next attempt will be some old tool boxes.
Do short nap rollers work ?
What about the small foam ones ?
 
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Ed ke6bnl

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I use Rustolium BLACK hammer finish on our buggy tube frames and it is like powder coated and goes on easy and looks good. I am using Hammerite fast cap smooth white on my metal porch rails I made and it is the worst paint to use and terrible paint. where it is on and not running is so smooth it is like glass BUT this stuff when you come back a half hour later the whole thing is running. BUT I started with it and will finish with it.
 

tonyciambrone

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Since we're on the subject..My tips are to agree with the foam roller opinions. I buy mine at Harbor Freight. I get cheap-o Foam Brushes from Menard's and I dab them in short little bursts rather than drag like a Hair Paintbrush. Both seem to work O.K but Spray is the king.
 

Ed ke6bnl

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Since we're on the subject..My tips are to agree with the foam roller opinions. I buy mine at Harbor Freight. I get cheap-o Foam Brushes from Menard's and I dab them in short little bursts rather than drag like a Hair Paintbrush. Both seem to work O.K but Spray is the king.
I have used the foam roller with the smooth white rust cap and strings of paint like cotton candy come off the roller and blow off in the wind. tried it in hot and cooler weather with the railing at around 79 degrees. no bueno. for me but still better then brush. This paint even eats up the foam on the roller and it comes free of the tube in the roller.
 

rburke65

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I gave brushed and rolled it on with a foam roller. It's held up well outside for 10 years or so. And this was the Rustolium.
 

tcianci

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I am betting it is thicker than normal because of exposure when leaking. New paint should be a bit thinner.

Also, your prep wasn't very good from this photo. Looks like some oil was on the surface when you painted it, see the fisheye?



Lastly, as said, a roller makes a big difference in smoothness and even application. I'm not sure why they would say not to use one.

Fisheyes? That's the texture! it's supposed to look like that!
 

Airforce

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Hi Folks,

Fisheyes? That's the texture! it's supposed to look like that!

Nope, that is not the hammered finish it is supposed to have. I use it very often and I´ve even done a motorbikeframe with it.

The best thing to do with Hammerite is to put on thin layer on first and after a few hours you put the second layer on. This also prevents running when you paint vertical. Paintbrush is faster but you have to be careful you don´t put too much on. Foam is also good but not on odd shaped things.
The best finish is most certainly a sprayed one; looks like glass granite. After that, a light polish with carnauba and it feels like wiping your **** with silk.

I think I might have a few pictures from the frame somewhere that I could post. Ah, why bother looking.....I´ll take a pic or two when i get home.

Cheers Airforce
 
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Flatheadpopup

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I recently painted my utility trailer with the Hammerite Rust Cap stuff. I love the color but I too had issues with it standing up like little fibers of cotton candy, especially on the fenders where it really shows. Everything but the inside corners was done with a roller. I plan to let it cure properly, scuff/level everything and take another shot at it. Could this stuff be sprayed with an hvlp gun--if so how much would you recommend thinning it? Thanks
 

metalmagpie

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Seattle
I use hammered finish paint when the surface I'm painting has imperfections I want to hide or at least soften up. I have had good results brushing and rolling. Their rattle cans seem to clog a lot.

I have not found that Hammerite is particularly effective against rust, probably because there are thick places and thin places and the water works its way through microcracks in the thin places in the paint. Anyway, it's good for something like a water pipe or machine stand but I'd never paint anything that really mattered with it, not if it had to be outside.

metalmagpie
 

greasyfingers01

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Back in 1998/1999 I used Hammerite quite a bit after having several failures with POR15. It used to be sold in Home Depot in quarts and gallons. I've painted truck frames, suspension parts, and even used it as a bedliner with a poly non slip additive. I love the stuff! For smaller parts I just brushed it on slightly heavy but not enough to where it would run and it leveled out nicely. For the frames and bedliner I sprayed it. I don't remember what size tip I used but remember having to having to find a large one. It turned out great and tuff as nails. Tomorrow when I go out to the shop I will take some pics of where I sprayed it in my early bronco. I used the Bronco for about 3 years after I sprayed it then tore it down to rebuild/restore it (I never made it to that second part). The tub sat outside without the top in the Arizona sun for 6 years before I packed it up and moved it indoors.

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Flatheadpopup

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Back in 1998/1999 I used Hammerite quite a bit after having several failures with POR15. It used to be sold in Home Depot in quarts and gallons. I've painted truck frames, suspension parts, and even used it as a bedliner with a poly non slip additive. I love the stuff! For smaller parts I just brushed it on slightly heavy but not enough to where it would run and it leveled out nicely. For the frames and bedliner I sprayed it. I don't remember what size tip I used but remember having to having to find a large one. It turned out great and tuff as nails. Tomorrow when I go out to the shop I will take some pics of where I sprayed it in my early bronco. I used the Bronco for about 3 years after I sprayed it then tore it down to rebuild/restore it (I never made it to that second part). The tub sat outside without the top in the Arizona sun for 6 years before I packed it up and moved it indoors.

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Love to see the pics. I have a 67 Bronco awaiting restoration (too many projects right now). I was thinking I would likely try a cheapy HF gun with a 1.8 primer tip to spray the hammerite. Do you remember thinning the paint much and if so with what? Thanks
 

greasyfingers01

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Here are the pics. There is 10+ years of dust settled in there and this was the cleanest spot. I'll try to vacuum and wash it out so you can get a better look.

I didn't thin it. I sprayed it in light speckled coats until I had total coverage. Without the non slip additive it's fairly smooth46210e8802791d4471af3bda23729a29.jpgd12c29b94458c7ef098f3ee02737b987.jpg0a89d3b70804e98595d26b1632c731d0.jpg

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Ed ke6bnl

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I have been using the Hammerite for my offroad buggy frame with the brush on version and it is some great stuff last long and goes on easy
 

TheJay

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I just used this stuff to paint my Polish FPU vise, was kinda hard to source the dark blue here in the USA but finally was available on amazon. If it cures nice I will be happy.
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That's gorgeous! This thread is really helpful.
 

rayra

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I am betting it is thicker than normal because of exposure when leaking. New paint should be a bit thinner.

Also, your prep wasn't very good from this photo. Looks like some oil was on the surface when you painted it, see the fisheye?



Lastly, as said, a roller makes a big difference in smoothness and even application. I'm not sure why they would say not to use one.
LOL are you for real? It's SUPPOSED to finish like that.

I've used the Rustoleum version, good stuff, but you want to avoid applying it in heat or very fry air, or a dry warm breeze, as it will flash off too fast. Got to give it time to meld and level and 'bloom'. Applying it in a Vegas summer was a tougher job than an L.A. Spring.
 

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