hand impact driver

[Chadro]

I know that to some people this matters and to others it's not an issue, but I saw the Craftsman model in store tonight while I was at Sears and it is not US-made, at least not anymore. Had the "Made in US from global components" verbiage on the back. I was kind of disappointed.

Not trying to stir the pot, just putting it out there in case anyone is looking for a US-made version. I thought this one was, so I assume others will appreciate knowing that it isn't.

Well if it said made in the US with global components , then it was made in the US. Just wasn't made with US steel and whatnot .

 

[gatewaysysop]

Well if it said made in the US with global components , then it was made in the US. Just wasn't made with US steel and whatnot .

No need to split hairs, I understand the distinction. I know it's not literally constructed outside the US.

I just wanted to point out that it's not "Made in the USA" in the sense of what the phrase actually means (as you pointed out, made with US steel, for example), since I assume that's what people would want/expect when they ask for a US-made tool.

 

[MSG Jeff]

I just bought a Continental 3/8 Dr Impact Driver #3800. Does anybody know
anything about this tool? Where it is made, the quality, where I can get bits,
an adapter, etc.?

 

[Danglerb]

Bits I think come in a couple sizes, 5/16 and 7/16 or something like that. Lisle and others sell replacement bits.

 

[littletoes]

I've a 3/8" drive PROTO that I picked up a few years ago for $19.00.

I also like to use an impact wrench at a lower setting to try and induce some lube in there without breaking a fastener.

Nothing works every time, but some things work some times.

Then its break out the drill and taps, with a liberal amount of anti-seize thrown in so it doesn't happen again.

 

[rockchucker]

I wore one completely out as a Motorcycle mechanic in the 70's-80's, but it took 10 years.
Buy a decent quality one as good ones are not terribly expensive.
Best to get 3/8"dr. as some cheapies are often 1/2"dr. and that makes it clumsy.
Couple tips:
Clean the screw head and I typically will use a couple hammer taps on the SD socket to fully seat before plugging on the Impact Driver.
Before you whack it, put twisting force on the tool in direction of rotation or the bounce will break bits.
Rob

100% about putting force in the direction you need to go before whackin it. You can even kind of preload the handle just a touch and put force on it. Then you just start with a light whack and progress if necessary. Most of the time it doesn't take much at all.

I have a cheap one that Pops gave me years ago and it still works great. Spray it with some lube before and after use so she is always ready to go. REALLY handy to have in the Tool Box and I like to use it as a preventative use instead of last resort too. If I know I am going to strip the head of the screw or whatever then it comes out of the Tool Box. It takes less time to open a drawer than to deal with a stripped out fastener any day.

 

[Dusty61]

i have a Cornwell branded one (Lisle tools i think) i love it, it works fantastic, combined with Harbor freight's 1/2" impact torx bits it is a MUST HAVE for Honda, Merceless-Spens and BMW brake rotors (being screwed to the hubs) they work better then an impact gun as the "shock" the screws as they are loosing them and make removal a bit easier. rule of thumb, if three hard strikes with a 4lb hammer doesn't move the bolt, drill it. save time.

 

[SuzukiGS750EZ]

Get one with warranty. I've broken the bits in shop. They shatter from time to time.

 

[vssjim]

Lowell Corp. makes both sizes as well under the Porter Ferguson name, they are also the only US made Porta-power builder left as a side note.

 

[andywander]

I have a couple but I am never sure they are "set" in the right direction for loosening.

 

[losvre]

How much torque does the Koken impact driver have ?


ps:

Hi Monte,

I have seen in a couple of sites that Koken driver is rated at 80 Nm.

This Wiha driver seems like the attack driver, could it be made by Koken? If yes then it is rated at 200Nm at the official site of wiha.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B001MEWL6Y/?tag=atomicindustr-21

 

[superautobacs]

Hi Monte,

I have seen in a couple of sites that Koken driver is rated at 80 Nm.

This Wiha driver seems like the attack driver, could it be made by Koken? If yes then it is rated at 200Nm at the official site of wiha.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B001MEWL6Y/?tag=atomicindustr-21

Wiha = Ko-ken

 

[one9gt]

http://www.cpooutlets.com/king-tony...143fre,default,pd.html?start=1&cgid=king-tony

 

[Titanium Steel]

I have an older USA made Blue Point 1/2 inch drive Blue Point impact driver and a modern made in USA of global components Proto J7099A set as well. Now I want to stress, the bits/adapters are 100% USA made and so is the case, but in calling Proto, they told me the spring is imported, but the actual unit is still USA made.

Thankfully Proto also manufacturers a USA made 1/2 inch impact bit holder as well.

This was a miracle when I was removing an old gate that all the screws/bolts were completely corroded. If I had to guess these screws/bolts were than 40 years old and wouldn't budge at all otherwise. So if you are going the manual route, I'd definitely spend the extra money on better quality product. I'd recommend Snap-On or Proto as these aren't cheaply made tools.

 

[thebeekeeper1]

I have several of the old Vessel and Eagle branded ones (seem to be the same), and they work great. They are a real life saver.

 

[gooseadrian]

That ko ken one is nice.

 

[WhiffySpark]

Wiha = Ko-ken

that doesn't look anything like the one monte linked

 

[superautobacs]

that doesn't look anything like the one monte linked

He was showing a Wera impact driver though?

 

[maxpower_hd]

I actually have three of them. One is in my work box which is a MAC, and I have two in my home box. One is an older one my Dad gave me years ago. I forget the brand but it is a US made one and the other is a no name cheap one that came in a tool deal. They all work fine. The cheap one had tips that would break instantly though. I just bought some good name brand replacement tips. That seems to be the key for digging into the fasteners.